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davekoen
06-15-2008, 11:59 AM
On my way home from cruising tonight my brakes started to go. If I pumped them, they would slow the car down. If I held them the pedal would go straight to the floor.

I made it home and checked for leaks under the car but couldn't find any. When I opened the hood there was a lot of fluid on top of the master cylinder. After a little messing around it I found that the fluid is coming out of the vent holes on the master cylinder's cap.

What is causing this? The car has been out of the garage for 2 weeks and in perfect working order.

57viper
06-15-2008, 12:35 PM
Sounds like the master cylinder seal has given up and squirting fluid up through the return hole in the bottom of the resevoir, just rebuild your master cylinder and you should be good to go.
Bob

557B210
06-15-2008, 03:25 PM
Bob's right....The master cylinder is leaking from the primary to the secondary side....Rebuild it and you should be good to go...david

57-Z06
06-15-2008, 07:19 PM
Be darn sure to get any brake fluid off any painted surfaces. It will absolutely ruin your paint.

Ray

MightyMouse57
06-16-2008, 07:53 PM
I bought a new single master cylinder from NAPA, It was $95.00. Probably cheaper to rebuild.

auggie56
06-16-2008, 08:09 PM
Mater cylinder is called for for sure. Any thought turning the system to a dual one ? A heck of a lot safer. I'm sure somone here might know what part to use.

57viper
06-16-2008, 09:45 PM
Take it back and get a rebuilt one.
Bob

MikeJ
06-16-2008, 09:50 PM
Ecklers has a kit for $170.

http://www.classicchevy.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=20%2D148&dept%5Fid=2162

Mike

Rick_L
06-16-2008, 09:55 PM
Geez, what a rip off!

57fox
06-16-2008, 10:29 PM
I decided to go with a dual master from a 68 Chevelle when my master cyl went and I bumped my garage.:eek: The 57 came through just fine, the garage needed some repair.:( That was when I decided safety was more important than perfection. I ran a new line from the master to the distribution block on the right of the front crossmember and installed a new block, put a cap in the old one, and any time i want to switch back it is pretty easy. The new master bolts to the bottom two bolts( If my memory is good,:rolleyes: it is clear when doing it which pair) where the old one was. I adjusted the length of the rod from the pedal, added fluid, bleed and it is good to go. Mine is a driver, I have never taken it to a show,:cool: but wouldn't be afraid to. Good luck whichever way you go. Rich

Hafrod
06-16-2008, 10:34 PM
I use the master cyl from a 62 Impala from Napa - about $24.00. It looks different but works the same!!!

Rick_L
06-16-2008, 11:03 PM
Let me elaborate on my ripoff comment.

The master cylinder you need is one you can get at the auto supply. Get one for a 67-69 Camaro/Nova/Chevelle with manual drum brakes. It should run you about $25-50. CCI is selling you a combination valve that's worth about $75-100. You don't need it. The rest is a line for the rear brakes that's worth $10-20. You can buy a straight length at the auto supply and bend it by hand. You'll need a couple of $2 fittings too.

davekoen
06-17-2008, 07:01 PM
thanks for all the input. I think I am just going to order a rebuild kit from Danchuck. The car is completely original so I really don't want to put a dual on there... safety be damned!

carls 56
06-17-2008, 09:29 PM
just glad you got home safe :tu

56-210sedan
06-17-2008, 09:52 PM
thanks for all the input. I think I am just going to order a rebuild kit from Danchuck. The car is completely original so I really don't want to put a dual on there... safety be damned!

Keep us up to date on how things go with the rebuild:tu

grandmas55
06-17-2008, 10:00 PM
Before you take back the new master cylinder, take the old one apart and inspect the piston bore. Make sure it is serviceable. Mark