Front Spring Removal

[56Mark]

Yesterday I was searching threads for the best and safest way to remove the front coil springs. There were several threads, but not many pictures. I decided to go with the 1/2" all-thread and 1/2" eye bolt that Rick L suggested. It works great. The parts were about $12 at Lowes. 3' of 1/2-13 threaded rod, 1/2" coupling nut, 1/2" eye bolt, 1/2" grade 8 washers and nuts. Take the cross bar off of an old shock (drill holes in the rubber bushing makes it come out easier). Put the old shock cross bar through the eye bolt and reinstall the lower shock bolts so it can't slip. Use jam nuts on both sides of the coupling nut. Oil the washers and the top nut to make it easier to turn. First, compress the spring a little and separate the upper ball joint, then you can safely lower the spring all the way down. Make sure the frame is jacked up enough for the lower A arm to swing all the way down. Also, it helps to loosen the bolts that clamp the bushings so the A arm can rotate freely. Thanks for the tip Rick. Now, does anyone have an easy way to get the bushings out?

http://www.trifive.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=229&pictureid=1717

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[chevman57]

Mark i always use an air hammer to remove the bushings. Nice shots of the spring removal.
Terry

[J&Jhotrods]

I don't like to mess around without a spring compressor when it comes to removing springs, but it looked like it worked o.k. for you, and that's all that matters.
My way of replacing bushings is to use a small drill bit to drill out the remaining rubber in the bushing, detaching it from the inner and outer sleeves(the inner sleeve will most likely be seized to the shaft), remove shaft(or at least separate it from the outer sleeve) and then you can air chisel(air hammer) out the outer sleeve. By separating them you will only have to deal with removing the sleeve, as the rubber acts as a dampener against the air chisel. You could use a heat wrench(torch) to remove the rubber, but makes a heck of a mess and fills your shop up with smoke. They can be pressed out without removing the rubber, but it's not worth fighting the air chisel and natures' loctite(rust) and creating more work from beating up the a-arm with the chisel.
For installation, I recommend using a press with some sort of fixture to keep from bending the a-arm, such as a 1" long piece of 1 1/2 tubing with a slot cut out of it, making it "C" shaped so it will fit around the shaft. That should give you a nice flat surface to press against so the bushing goes in straight and easy. And don't tighten the bushing bolts until the weight of the car is on the ground. Hope this helps.

Jay

[too55togitit]

We used the 5/8-11 rod, Double-nuted both ends, Larger than normal washers, used a couple of old fuel pump plates tached together, placed a chain on the spring, kept on a short leash, adjusted accordingly, floor jack assist under the dadburn thang, safety is a must w/ these coil-springs, which I'm sure everyone will agree. AL
Note: Not criticizing anyone's method, just that this method worked for us, good luck and be safe at all times.

[Bihili]

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL470/4002687/8306581/111285817.jpg

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL470/4002687/8306581/111284561.jpg

If you are going to remove the upper A-arm it is better to have the excess rod at the bottom instead of the top. Excess rod at the top will get in the way of the removal.

[J&Jhotrods]

Like 55 togitit said, regardless of procedure, chain that spring up on a short leash. I've changed many, many springs over the years and while I've never launched one, I've seen it happen. SCARY amounts of energy being released from that projectile. You can definitely never be TOO safe.

Jay

[linus7226]

OK, they said no dumb questions when I signed up so here goes. Do you use the same rig to reinstall the spring and tie everything back together? I have never done this but I am about to on my '56. :confused:

[Rick_L]

Yes, everything just works in reverse. Just don't let the all thread go into bending.

Bihili, as far as removing the upper control arm, I just like to break the connection at the ball joints, remove the spindle, let the spring down with the compressor, remove the compressor, and then the upper control arm comes right off. I darn sure don't want any part of my body under that lower control arm to turn a wrench or do anything else until the spring pressure is off. Turning the wrench from the top is the way to go.

Gidaver, you say you don't like to mess around with a spring compressor - I see no other way unless there's been 2 coils cut off - how do you deal with a stock spring?

[56Mark]

I am planning on using it to put them back in....in a couple of weeks when I get things cleaned up and painted. It looks like it may take just a little prying to get the spring started into the back of it's seat. It worked great taking them off and don't see why it won't work to put them back. Also, there were comments about safety. I thought this was very safe and I don't see any way the spring could get away, unless the rod broke. I stood on the inside of the frame most of the time while I was doing this, just in case. I have taken springs off of other cars using external spring compressors and did put a chain through the spring and was glad I did when one got away. Scares the pee out of you...lol. I will try to get a picture putting it back, but it may be 2-3 weeks.

[J&Jhotrods]

Yes, everything just works in reverse. Just don't let the all thread go into bending.


Gidaver, you say you don't like to mess around with a spring compressor - I see no other way unless there's been 2 coils cut off - how do you deal with a stock spring?

No, I said I don't like to mess around without a spring compressor. I just like to be as safe as possible when it comes to removing springs. With the top end (of compressor)going through the upper shock mount and with the fingers(of the compressor) on the lower portion of the spring it allows you to remove the lower a-arm by itself, as well as install it by itself during re-assembly.

Jay

[Shua57]

Mark, I use a air chisel as well. I remove the rubber and then crush the bushings center with the air chisel. Works pretty quick once I figured out how to do it.
Josh

[Ari]

So, I've been searching threads :confused: looking for coil spring install tips. The removal was fairly easy :tu, however the install on my car seems pretty difficult tdi. I am doing new upper and lower arms as well as 2" drop springs :D.

On the spring removal, I used and internal spring compressor without any problems. These spring have never been out of the car, so they were fairly worn out and easy to undo.

On the install, i've been having a pretty difficult time. :mad: I tried to use the internal compressor, however it tends to slip on the coils (not too safe) and seems like the amount compression needed will be difficult to achieve.

I went to the depot today, bought the 3 foot 1/2" all thread, washer, couplers, etc... Got things started, however the angle of the spring seems so extreme compared to the lower control arm pocket AND the spring keep slipping out of the lower pocket. Maybe I just need to wedge it in there with my foot or something until it gets started enough (lol). My concern is of the spring slipping out while pulling things together.

I also tried the old fashioned (poor high school no tools) method or floor jack under control arm :eek:, which actually worked pretty good. However i could not get the spring compressed enough to get the sprindle mounted.

So my question is - what is a good method of getting the new springs compressed? I'm considering getting or renting (if I can find one) a clam shell style spring compressor. These seem safer and easier to use. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions?

[henrys57wagon]

I just read this thread after I responded to the spring install post. I made a spring compressor but I used grade 8 threaded rod and made a piece to attach to the lower shock mount and an EYE bolt to go from the shock piece to the threaded rod. Good day, Henry.

[yomamma]

56 Mark...I just did the same thing. It worked great. I also used it to reinstall the springs with the help of my floor jack. It was cheap too.

Ari...Do not bolt the lower control arm to the frame first. With the lower control arm unbolted, put the spring in place with the rod in the middle and snug the nut on the rod with your finger.Make sure the spring is in the correct location in the seats. As you begin to tighten the nut on the long rod use a floor jack under the bushing rod and pump it up and push back as you tighten. Use a long punch to line up the holes as it gets closer to the frame and drop in your frame bolts. I did this on both sides and it was easy. The rod will not allow the spring to go anywhere so it seems pretty safe.