FRONT SPING INSTALL - NEED ADVICE.

[Ari]

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So, I've been searching threads looking for coil spring install tips. The removal was fairly easy , however the install on my car seems pretty difficult . I am doing new upper and lower arms as well as 2" drop springs .

On the spring removal, I used and internal spring compressor without any problems. These spring have never been out of the car, so they were fairly worn out and easy to undo.

On the install, i've been having a pretty difficult time. I tried to use the internal compressor, however it tends to slip on the coils (not too safe) and seems like the amount compression needed will be difficult to achieve.

I went to the depot today, bought the 3 foot 1/2" all thread, washer, couplers, etc... Got things started, however the angle of the spring seems so extreme compared to the lower control arm pocket AND the spring keep slipping out of the lower pocket. Maybe I just need to wedge it in there with my foot or something until it gets started enough (lol). My concern is of the spring slipping out while pulling things together.

I also tried the old fashioned (poor high school no tools) method or floor jack under control arm , which actually worked pretty good. However i could not get the spring compressed enough to get the sprindle mounted.

So my question is - what is a good method of getting the new springs compressed? I'm considering getting or renting (if I can find one) a clam shell style spring compressor. These seem safer and easier to use. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions?

[Shua57]

Hmmmm, I don't recall having that difficult of time reinstalling mine with the all-thread method. The only difference in my setup is I used one of my old lawn mower blades under the lower control arm so it was using the control arm to compress the spring. I do recall having to kick the lower control arm to line the bolts up a little. Hope you can line it out or someone else has some help for you.
Josh

[56belairconvert]

SOUNDS DANGEROUS But if you go the old fashion way, you can chain down the frame of the car and jack up the floor jack to get the spindle nuts mounted. Or use a come along from the floor jack to the frame

[Rick_L]

With the all thread method you are going to need to remove the bolts holding the lower control arm, then compress the spring using the all thread, and you'll need to put a floor jack under the control arm to tilt the control arm to where the bolt holes line up.

This is the procedure shown in the shop manual and the photos in there show it better than I can describe it in words. The compressor shown in the shop manual is very similar to the "all thread" compressor.

Any other way takes a chance of bending the all thread, and this is something you definitely don't want to do.

[C57heaven]

What Rick L said.

That's also how I do it.

[Ari]

With the all thread method you are going to need to remove the bolts holding the lower control arm, then compress the spring using the all thread, and you'll need to put a floor jack under the control arm to tilt the control arm to where the bolt holes line up.

This is the procedure shown in the shop manual and the photos in there show it better than I can describe it in words. The compressor shown in the shop manual is very similar to the "all thread" compressor.

Any other way takes a chance of bending the all thread, and this is something you definitely don't want to do.

So let me get this straight. The lower control arm needs to be removed from the vehicle, then placed under the spring. The spring and control arm get compressed together. Once the spindle is on the control arms, then use a jack to align the control arm mounting holes to the holes on the frame?

[henrys57wagon]

I made a spring compressor but I used grade 8 threaded rod and made a piece to attach to the lower shock mount and an EYE bolt to go from the shock piece to the threaded rod. Good day, Henry.

[J&Jhotrods]

Get the MAC tools spring compressor(with fingers) and be done with it. It's the cheapest one from the major tool brands and with the arc of the spring that these tri-5's have, it's soooo much easier to go through the upper shock mount and compress the spring up into the frame and the lower a-arm swings right into place with minimal chance of scratching the paint, and also the safest way(mucho piece of mind when putting your hand under the spring to raise the lower a-arm into place). You can put the "arc" in the spring during installation by properly locating the fingers. That's just an area where saving a few bucks to do it cheaper isn't worth it IMO, not to mention how much easier it is. You can't be too safe when it comes to coil spring removal/installation. Just my 2 cents.


Jay

[57-Geez]

Most places like Checker Auto or Auto Zone rent the internal spring compressors for free, thats how I did mine.

Gil

[Ari]

Jay,

I tried using this one, however the fingers keep rotating on the spring when tightening.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80554&N=700+4294803316+115&autoview=sku

[gregpharr]

I've never used anything but a threaded rod, and I've never had to take the lower A arm loose. I use a flat plate about 3" x 5" or 6" with a hole in it for the threaded rod. I slide it between the lower part of the coil, and pull it over to the inside, (toward the center of the car) As you tighten up the rod, it kinda curls the coil so it goes into the pocket in the lower control arm. Put a floor jack under the lower A-arm, as you tighten up the rod, raise the lower arm. When you get it close enough, just give it a bump with something like a 4" x 4" X whatever you have, and bump the spring over into the spring pocket. Re attach the ball joints.
If your using shorter springs, it should make it even easier.

[J&Jhotrods]

[QUOTE=Ari;156019]Jay,

I tried using this one, however the fingers keep rotating on the spring when tightening.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80554&N=700+4294803316+115&autoview=sku[/QUOTE
It's important to lubricate the threaded shaft so things spin smoothly each time you use it.
The other part of that trick, as well as to keep from scratching the newly painted springs, is to place a section of 5/8ths heater hose(about 2" long) where the fingers touch the spring. Keeps the fingers snug to the coils and keeps it from rotating and scratching the paint.
I'm all about making tools instead of buying them to save a buck, don't get me wrong. Just not in this situation. I'm sure opinions will differ. I've done enough springs in my life to not want to fight it anymore. I like to make it as safe and easy as possible.
Again, just my 2 cents.



Jay

[Ari]

Thanks for the feedback Jay. I was thinking about removing the upper jaws, sliding the tool through the shock hole, getting the lower jaws on the spring, and then compressing up from there. My thought was it would be safer doing it this way... if things let go, at least i'll be on the engine compartment side of things.

[J&Jhotrods]

Thanks for the feedback Jay. I was thinking about removing the upper jaws, sliding the tool through the shock hole, getting the lower jaws on the spring, and then compressing up from there. My thought was it would be safer doing it this way... if things let go, at least i'll be on the engine compartment side of things.
That's EXACTLY how I did it. Only thing I'd add is if one finger is shorter than the other, place the shorter finger towards the inside to create the 'arc' in the spring as it's compressed, clock the spring so the end coil fits where it's supposed to on the lower a-arm pocket, and that baby will go together without so much as a scratch. Put a couple of washers, lightly greased, atop the upper shock mount hole to make the compressor spin smooth so it won't dig in. This will also aid in allowing only the threaded shaft to do the spinning, not the spring.


Jay

[tjsdelivery]

Wow! This thread is helpful. I'm going to be doing this shortly myself. Taking it all apart seemed easy. Putting it together seemed as if it would be tricky. I'll find out. But, armed with more knowledge than I had yesterday.

[Ari]

Ok, so as a follow-up on this....here's what worked for me. The internal spring compressor with the two fingers that go around the springs didn't work out well. It kept slipping and just didn't seem safe. I was getting frustrated, so I decided to walk away from the car for the night. What I did was use the home made spring compressor with the 1/2" all thred, eye bolt, etc... I fed that through the shock mount hole, through the new spring, and through the lower A-arm. I used a thick piece of steel bar under the a-arm, through the eye bolt. Looking at the all thread, I thought to myself, "this is going to take forever".

So, I placed my jack under the lower a-arm and started compressing the spring. As I would pump up the jack, I would then tighted up on the all thread to keep things compressed. Reposition the jack if needed, and keep jacking the lower a-arm and compressing the spring more, I would then tighted up on the all thread to keep things compressed. Repeat, etc... Don't forget to make sure the spring is properly seated in the a-arm. Once I got one side figured out, it took about 5 minutes to complete the other side. This method proved to be quick, safe, and inexpensive (who said you can't have all three :) )

Once the spindle is mounted, loosen up the all thread, lower the jack, drop the all thread through the bottom of the lower a-arm, remove the eyebolt, and pull the all-thread through the top shock mount hole.

[J&Jhotrods]

Feeling safe when doing springs accounts for more than the actual replacement of the springsIMO. Nobody needs that kind of anxiety:eek:! At least you got them done safely and you still have all of your digits, that's what matters.:)


Jay

[3 Tri-Fives]

I would like to add one thing from the safety side of things that will work with all of these methods. I like to run a chain or cable through the spring and through the main bulkhead of the frame. It's a little peace of mind in case things slip. It will keep the spring from shooting out from the pockets and hitting someone or something and causing injury or damage.

[57-Geez]

3 - Tri fives, thats a good idea. These things have great potential for serious injury.

[ChuckG]

Here are some pictures of the spring compressor that's been passed around both of my Corvette clubs for many years. I've used it a few times.

This is the best way IMHO. I never had luck with the internal compressors. Don't know anyone who has been.

Chuck

[J&Jhotrods]

That's so strange to hear about the problems guys are having with the internal spring compressors. I've been an automotive technician for almost 25years, collision repair for the last 15 of those years, and I have springs in and out on a fairly regular basis, and that's all I use. I suppose it comes down to whatever you're comfortable with and what you're used to using. The main problem I see is guys will use one that is not designed for use with an impact, and the threads get galled up, which will cause the fingers to slip on the coil. It's absolutely imperative that the threads are cleaned and checked by threading the fingers up and down the threaded shaft before each use; maybe that is where the problem is. You can bet it will slide on the coils if this step isn't done. I've got Snap On's h.d. model at work that is used with an impact, but I clean and lubricate the threads before EVERY use. I have the Mac version at home(not to be used with an impact-different threads) and it worked like a champ for our wagon's springs. Maybe I'm just used to the little idiosyncrasies that come with using the internal one, who knows. But I guess it comes down to whatever you're comfortable and feel safe with. Happy wrenchin boys:):D:D:).




Jay

[dseale4888]

I've used the threaded rod to do many sets of springs. If you take your time and be careful you can do anything.
Dave

[Rick_L]

gidaver, some of the internal spring compressors out there are not designed for use with the coil outside diameter that our springs (and other 50s-70s cars) have. Or they are Chinese copies that didn't get copied right.

The correct internal compressor with the right fingers is probably easier to use than the threaded rod, and safer too. But you aren't going to find one at the local auto supply, which is the first place many look. You can buy one off the tool truck - or if you search the net you can find one - but if you buy on the net you may not get the right one, there's not much way to know unless you know a specific mfr and p/n will work. But the compressor they want to sell you or loan you at the auto supply is often not the right one. And it's been that way for years.

I have a useless (and unsafe) one in the bottom of the #3 tool box that's just that way. It looks like it should work but it doesn't. I have no idea who made it or what it's really for. But it probably works on something, or someday I can modify it for some weird use so I don't throw it out.