View Full Version : I Have A Question About Dropped Spindles
12-28-2008, 01:12 PM
I was looking into lowering my 56 chevy with the 2" drop spindles and 2" lowering blocks for the rear. I am running hedman long tube headers and they hang about 2 inches under the frame. I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with them scrapping or anything like that, becuase the car is driven pretty often. Also if you guys can please tell me a good place to buy them from and how you like them. Thanks
12-28-2008, 01:59 PM
You will not be like'n those Hedman long tube headers with your car that low. I assure you, they will drag.
There are many header options for lowered cars, and several threads on this forum have been dedicated to your question. For full on performance the Hooker 2112's are a big tube header for lowered cars.. you will need to remove the stock rearward-side transmission mounts. From there, Patriot sells a mid-length header designed for lowered cars.. again, your options are vast.
12-28-2008, 06:31 PM
Some of the after market spindles will move front tire's out 3/4 or more to the fender lip,which can cause clearance problems.Make sure get spindles that will be at stock width,unless you want the wheels sticking out.Most of the venders tech departments can help you on that Issue.Thought you might want to know before you buy.I agree with Mike about the hedder deal.I personally like the full lenght Hooker low clearance hedders,that Mike spoke of.Pricy but worth every penny..
12-28-2008, 07:59 PM
Thank you guys for the help. I will start looking into a set of those hooker headers. Has anyone had problems with the lowering blocks in the rear? Such as a bumpy ride or anything like that?
12-28-2008, 11:00 PM
Most of the dropped spindles move the wheel mounting surface out 3/8", no more. The stuff for stock spindles is where the wheels are moved out a lot.
For a lowered car, you don't want full length headers that route under the original frame brackets for the bellhousing engine mounts. If you want full length headers, you need some that require removal of those brackets. The Hooker 2112 is one. Another choice is the Earle Williams header, it's what I have and I think it's a better header. Doug's has similar headers.
Lowering blocks are OK but avoid the hollow cast aluminum ones, as they will break. Go with a solid block, either aluminum or steel, or if hollow, they need to be steel.
A better way to go than lowering blocks is de-arched springs. Some lowering springs also have reversed front eyes, which reduce the amount of de-arch required. If that's not enough, then a thin (1") lowering block is a good way to go. Earle Williams, Eaton Detroit Spring, and Posie's all have good lowering springs.
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