Windshield and Back Glass R&R

[MikeKy55]

Okay, this is going to come up sooner or later so I will post it now. Guys who have never dechromed a car or replaced a windshield/backglass will find it handy.

Removal:
The windshield trim comes off as follows. Remove the wiper bezels, look under the dash at the apex of the curve on each side and you will find a nut on the inside. Should take a 3/8ths socket (deep well). Once they are off, pull outward slightly and the moulding will come out from under the corner piece near the door. You can then slide the moulding outward and off the clips. The corners are held by a small screw on the front corner (seen only after the front lower mouldings are off) and one screw on the rear of the corner which is in the door jamb. Once those two are out, pull outward slightly and down. It will slip off the upper piece. Once it is off, there will be a screw in each upper piece down at the bottom where the corner moulding covers them. The upper two halves stay in the windshield gasket when you take the glass out. The gasket has a channel that the stainless fits into.

The rear is different. On each outside upper corner you will see a small 'L' shaped piece. On the inside there is a nut on the stud on the moulding. The upper and lower pieces that run across side to side have clips on the window opening pinch weld that stick up toward the stainless trim. You have to use a reveal moulding tool. The tool has a "T" shaped end and is very thin. You put the "T" end under the trim and hold the handle at about a 45º angle to the stainless. Slide it along and you will feel the clips. When you get to one hold a little pressure against the clip and then move the handle of the tool toward 90º. The clip will release the stainless. Don't expect the stainless to just pop off. You may have to go across a couple times until they are all loose. Once the stainless is off, you can push the glass out from the inside while rolling the inner flap on the gasket down toward the glass. If your replacing the gaskets, your golden. Just take a box knife and cut the rubber flap off the inside and lift the glass out.
The windshield comes out the same way once the stainless is off.

Installation:
On the windshield the top two pieces of stainless go into the rubber seal, after the gasket is on the glass. Once the glass is pulled in and your sure it is centered in the opening, start with the bottom of the top two pieces. The ends have a hole that a screw goes thru and into the pillar. Then install the two corner pieces. They slide up onto the upper pieces and set in against the pillar. The front end of the corners have a retainer that sticks out toward the front of the car. A screw goes in each of those as well. Once that is done, you install the lower two pieces. You have to be careful and slide each lower piece onto the lower trim clips that are screwed to the cowl. Be sure you put the center joint cover on before you slide the two pieces all the way in. Each of the lower pieces have a clip right in the apex of the curve. It has a stud that goes into a hole on the cowl. Before you put it into the hole, put a piece of strip caulk around the base of the stud so when it tightens down it will seal the hole. The nut for that clip goes on from under the dash. Now as you put the lower piece in place, be sure to take your time and guide it into the end of the corner piece you installed earlier. You will have to bow the moulding just a little to get it in. When you tighten the stud clip, it will help pull the corner pieces in tight against the car.

On the back glass, first put the moulding clips on the pinch weld around the opening. The set you buy comes with I think? 12 clips? I add 4 extra. One extra on each side right in the curve on the outer end of the lower moulding and one extra on either side of center at the bottom about 3 inches from center each way. The moulding if bad about trying to rise back out in those areas. Next put the rubber on the glass and pull it in the car. By pull it in, I mean you use a piece of small cord. Lay the cord down into the channel that goes over the pinch weld. Cross the two ends in the center inside and tape them against the glass. Have someone help by putting a little presure on the outside of the glass as you pull it in.Once it's in then the stainless goes on. There are two upper outer corner pieces (small L shape with a long stud on the back side). Put the upper piece across and once you satisfied it is centered, tap on it with the heal of your hand. NO HAMMERS here ;o). Tap it down except for the last two outer clips. Then put the bottom pieces on the same way all the while being sure the lower center joint cap is in place. Again tap it down into the clips except for the last one on each side where it goes up to the roof line. Then wrap strip caulk around the stud on the corner caps. Guide the corners onto the top and lower piece while pushing the little stud into the hole in the pinch weld on each side. You may want a helper inside start the little nut on the clip while you hold in on the corner piece. Once they are tight your done. One note, don't over tighten the corners. They WILL pull in and bow up on the ends. Then you buy two more.

[prostreet]

Wow Directions you can understand . Thumbs up Mike . thats one that will save Trifivers some real time and cut out a hole lot of cursing.:( Maybe even a few pieces of trim. :)

[MikeKy55]

Thanks Steve. I get the question from time to time and figured "Why send someone off site?".

[Wanabe]

Hi Mike

This is my first complete teardown and buid of a 57 210 wagon.
I wish I read this before I took my moulding off I had no clue, the bottom clips were on so good I bent the trim taking it off. I did use the clip tool but still had trouble. When putting the moulding back on are you saying I should slide the trim over the clips starting at the curved part of the window?:confused:

[MikeKy55]

On the windshield lower trim, yes. Back glass no. Which moulding bent?

[Wanabe]

Hi Mike

Are you camped out here.

I wish I could get answers out of my wife this quick.

The lower trim on both sides bent at the curved part of the trim I kind of kinked it.

[MikeKy55]

Sorry, I was away for a few..:eek:

Lower moulding on the windshield should slide onto the clips that are held to the cowl with screws. If you have already painted the car, be very careful sliding in on. If it trys to bind and dig into the finish, back it off and take a pair of channel lock (slip joint) pliers and squeeze the clip so as to make slightly more narrow and a little taller from the surface. That will help it clear the paint. Don't go so far as to have the moulding loose or too far off the cowl. It's a 'squeeze a little' and try it proceedure.

[Wanabe]

Thanks mike
I am far from paint but I will not forget the info

[Greg]

does anyone know where i can order the w/shield seal and rear glass seal from,i also need the (i believe its called lower w/shield garnish moulding)that goes on the dash below w/shield,for my 56 sedan,Thanks Greg

[MikeKy55]

Greg, look in the "Trifive parts website links" forum" you will want to buy TN seals. They are a little sfter and fit better than any other I have seen.
On the garnish moulding, post a wanted ad in the free clasifieds here and someone will probably be able to help.

Mike

[gconnsr]

So, from reading this, it sounds like the only way to put crome window trim on my 55 150 is to remove the glass? What about the rest of the body crome? I want my 150 to look like a Belair.

[MikeKy55]

If you plan to use the trim around the side glass, they have to come out as well. If your 150 has original front and back glass seals, they have to be replaced with 210/Belair seals.

[gconnsr]

Thanks Mike, It looks like I have alot of work to do. I've never owned a 55 until I picked up a 4dr and a 2dr last month, I don't know anyone local that can help me with my questions. the 2dr is a basket case, but it's solid as a rock. It has a hole in the drivers rocker about the size of a silver dollar, but the floors are flawless, this is the only rust spot on the car. I have the original California pink slip and the original black plate. It will make a very nice car when it's done. I'm sure I will have alot of stupid questions for you guys!

[MikeKy55]

Sounds like a great project. No question is dumb if you don't know the answer. I seems smart in my eyes to ask rather than spending a lot of time figureing something out. No point in reinventing the wheel.

[danx]

I hope that MikeKY55 gets this message...

Just wanted to say thanks for your post regarding the stainless trim (specificly the front windshield). I have a 55 210 Wagon that I am having some rust repair work done on, was going to save myself some money by removing the trim myself, but my part of the job came to a stop when I couldn't get the trim off...had the feeling I was going to start tweaking metal...so after an hour or so of trying to figure it out I stopped!

Found your post, went back out to the garage, and completed the job in less than 5 mins.

Thanks again Mike!!!

Don't really use these sites very often but now am a loyal fan of TRIFIVE.COM.

Dan Hernandez

[PaPa Mike]

Hey Dan, these guys can save us a lot of headaches, got a question just ask, somebody's got an answer

[MikeKy55]

Happy to help Dan. Your sure welcome. Anytime.

[duelly47]

This may sound like a strange question to some but will the chrome strip from a 1956 Bel Air 4 door fit on a 1956 Bel Air 2 Door Hardtop. Are they the same as the window is a little different. Thanks.

[SIDKELLY1]

Wish I'd read this BEFORE I pulled windshield for paint--CRACKED the darned thing!!

[equaltime50]

i have a windshield that came out of a 55 pontiac and want to put it in a 55 chevy but it is to tall who can cut it to fit

[chevman57]

Equaltime50, from what i got out of the post about cutting windshields for chopped tops the other day, Cutting a windshield is VERY difficult. You would probably be better off buying a glass made for it. Auto City Glass in Minn. sells at swap meets and they are around 170.00.
Terry

[vabeach56wagon]

Below are some pictures we took as we reinstalled the windshield in the wagon. They may prove helpful.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937135.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937165.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937177.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937199.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937214.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937227.jpg

Paul

[WAGON MASTER]

Great timming Mike just bought a new windshield and just getting ready to install. Thanks for the great info.

[Belairmark]

Can this be made sticky so it doesn't fall off the bottom of the world?

[MikeKy55]

Actually it already is. But great suggestion.

[Belairmark]

Tops Geezer!!!!!;)

[SIDKELLY1]

my back glass was installed when I purchased christine but still needs some additional clips--I purchased the clip set but??? does the back glass come out to add these clips????

[MikeKy55]

Yes, it does indeed. The clips go over the pinch weld before the glass and seal goes in.

[SIDKELLY1]

I was afraid you were going to say that--Christine strikes again!!

[freedum57]

Hi Mike, I'm sure glad I read this first. I'm about to install my rear stainless and didn't realize the importance of having all the stainless joints "ready To go together" before the final tap in place. Thanks loads. Don

[freedum57]

Hi Mike, I believe I'm correct, but I want to be 100% sure. The stainless goes between the pinch weld and the clip not the clip and the Rubber? Thanks Don

[MikeKy55]

You are correct sir!

[Cuzz]

Ok, I'm going on the premise that there is NO STUPID Question...so here goes. Can any one tell me where I can get that special trim removal tool?? I have looked for two days and can't find it.I think I'm googling the wrong description or something!:mad:

[MikeKy55]

http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages/M/MR215_14133.gif

[chad57]

Thanks, Mike, for the great directions. This will come in handy for me.

[ChuckG]

Glad I read this, as I was planning to TRY to remove all of the front and rear SS trim to polish it, then re-install it.

Looks like the only pieces that come off easily are the lower front windshield SS and the corner trim pieces.

Didn't know that the upper windshield trim was "hooked" into the rubber gasket. :p

Anyhow, looks like I'll remove what I can, and carefully polish the rest of the items "on the car". Chuck

[hozona]

You guys at trifive are awesome! Thanks for the quick response and GOOD INFO

Geoff

[Buggrn56]

MikeKy55
Will be attempting to remove the glass from my 56 210 soon. This is a GREAT help and post. I'm pretty new here so read alot and don't post too much. You know kinda like shut up and listen you might learn something :-) If I have any other questions at least I know where to turn. This is my first go at restoring and am learning as I go. This sight and your posts have helped in the past. I always try to find another thread on the subject I have questions on before I post. Just the way I think.

Thanks again
Rog

[56-210sedan]

This may sound like a strange question to some but will the chrome strip from a 1956 Bel Air 4 door fit on a 1956 Bel Air 2 Door Hardtop. Are they the same as the window is a little different. Thanks.


If they are both hardtops they will, the same goes for sedans.

[56-210sedan]

Ok, I'm going on the premise that there is NO STUPID Question...so here goes. Can any one tell me where I can get that special trim removal tool?? I have looked for two days and can't find it.I think I'm googling the wrong description or something!:mad:

Actually, this is a very good question:tu just go down to your local NAPA they will have them. If you want to order one danchuk or any of the other tri five suppliers should carry them.

[ARTY]

HI GUYS ANY OF YOU PUT THE BACK QUARTER WINDOWS OF A 4 DOOR IN . LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE TO PUT THE CHROME ON FIRST THE RUN SEALER AROUND THE CHROME AND BODY AND PUSH THE WINDOW & RUBBER IN AGAINST THE CHROME & FRAME .IS THIS CORRECT. ARTY

[63chevytoo]

MikeKy55
Great instructions and well written Mike.
Timely and helpful.

Thanx
Don

[mike56]

thanks for all of the advise and tricks on the window and chrome installation. I will be using it all, as none of my windows are currently installed.

mike56

[Dan57]

Thanks Mike for the easy to read instructions on this thread, i was trying to pull the screen out yesterday and got all the bottom stainless off and spent about half an hour prying at the top stainless but then i thought i'd better stop before i break something and have a look on here:tu
I found a 1c coin from 1961 once i got the screen out, well not that big a deal i suppose but i thought it was cool (and a foreign coin for me):D

[daves57]

57 210 2 dr sedan the 2 small L shaped stainless mouldings with the stud and nut. does the headliner have to come down to access the nut? i'm ready to order all my glass and was going over my parts list when i noticed the stud in the picture thanks dave.

[Cari]

I knew I could find the info here. I am starting a frame off restoration of a 56 Belair and was trying to remove the window chrome today. After about an hour I thought I had better come in and read Thrifive. Sure enough here are the great instructions from Mike.:tu

Thanks for the great help and I will be back as I progress.

This is my first restoraton. I have the body strippped to the firewall and both driver side doors off. Most of the chrome had been removed when I found the vehicle. I am now working on the windows.

Joe

[crab]

only a few clips seem to be holding good on the rear glass of my 57 bel air. It's all new clips and rubber and the trim doesn't seem bent. Could too much putty in the channel causa this problem? I cleaned out most of it.

[CDF]

YES LOOKING FOR A INTERIOR GARNISH FOR REAR WINDOW WHERE HEADLINER AN WINDOW MEET I HAVE A 57 CHEVY 2 DOOR SEDAN(POST)BELAIR NOT HAVING MUCH LUCK ANY HELP I LOST E-MAIL cdf2219@sault.com thanks chuck

[lizardlatham]

If you plan to use the trim around the side glass, they have to come out as well. If your 150 has original front and back glass seals, they have to be replaced with 210/Belair seals.

Hello Mike:
Maybe you can answer my question.....per your comment about 150 original seals....Does no one make the seals for the 150 any more?...And...If not...does the seal that uses the trim seal off ok with out the trim installed?

Thanks for your help:)

Gary(lizard)Latham

[ProjX57]

Hello Mike:
Maybe you can answer my question.....per your comment about 150 original seals....Does no one make the seals for the 150 any more?...And...If not...does the seal that uses the trim seal off ok with out the trim installed?

Thanks for your help:)

Gary(lizard)Latham

Gary,

Check this link out:
http://www.danchuk.com/Danchuk1.aspx?Category=dc1ab92d-305a-4836-bcc3-ca942c37a6d9
A Sponsor of this site, Danchuk carries those seal's.......:anim_25:

[lizardlatham]

Gary,

Check this link out:
http://www.danchuk.com/Danchuk1.aspx?Category=dc1ab92d-305a-4836-bcc3-ca942c37a6d9
A Sponsor of this site, Danchuk carries those seal's.......:anim_25:

Thanks for your reply Projx57:

I have a new seal that requires the trim...and would like to use it with out the trim....If it will work with no problems.

Thanks again:)
Gary Latham

[ProjX57]

Gary,

I have never tried that, but getting the glass to set, and seal good would be a concern for me, because that trim channel actually clip's in behind the glass, and help's to hold the glass in at the top when combined with the other stainless pieces once they are in place around the seal IMHO. Without the glass that would create a void, and may make the glass not set good, and tight at the top.... My .02 :anim_25:
I would try and trade the seal that you have, for the right one....just an idea.........

[lizardlatham]

Gary,

I have never tried that, but getting the glass to set, and seal good would be a concern for me, because that trim channel actually clip's in behind the glass, and help's to hold the glass in at the top when combined with the other stainless pieces once they are in place around the seal IMHO. Without the glass that would create a void, and may make the glass not set good, and tight at the top.... My .02 :anim_25:
I would try and trade the seal that you have, for the right one....just an idea.........

Thanks again ProjX57

Common sense tells me that you are right....I just wanted to hear it from another gearhead.....:)

[ProjX57]

Thanks again ProjX57

Common sense tells me that you are right....I just wanted to hear it from another gearhead.....:)

I would rather be safe than sorry, the seal is relatively cheap compared to a new windshield..................... :happy0030::happy0030: :anim_25:

[Gary Blake]

Thanks Mike, and welcome Dan!:)

[lizardlatham]

I would rather be safe than sorry, the seal is relatively cheap compared to a new windshield..................... :happy0030::happy0030: :anim_25:

Hello again Mike and ProjX57:

One more question.....I have been told the rear seal for a 55 is the same for the 150 as the Belair with trim...do you know this to be true....because I see a void between the seal and the body where the trim would go. I just want to get the right seal for the 150 if it is sure enough different. This Info is not given on internet sites where I can order.:rolleyes::cool:

Thanks Guys
Gary Latham

[ProjX57]

Gary,

According to Danchuk it is not the same. Check out this link, and scroll about halfway down the page and the seal's are there and it tell's you which one's fit what:

http://www.danchuk.com/Danchuk1.aspx?Category=dc1ab92d-305a-4836-bcc3-ca942c37a6d9

Hope this help's................ :anim_25:

[MikeKy55]

I agree. The 150 has a different seal from the 210 and Belair styles.

[lizardlatham]

I agree. The 150 has a different seal from the 210 and Belair styles.

Thanks Guys;

Ordered from Danchuck......Will send these back for a credit hopefully:rolleyes:

[ProjX57]

Thanks Guys;

Ordered from Danchuck......Will send these back for a credit hopefully:rolleyes:


Good decision Gary....................WTG..............:anim_25:

[norm]

hi mike norm here. i did what you said on a rear window install on my 55
but i am getting leaks at the top i can't stop. it is coming in between the seal and the metal lip that the seal attaches to. the lip is in good shape at the top i had to do repairs in the lower left corner. it seems like it maybe leaking around the new molding clips
do i need some type of sealant?
thanks norm
nmungo@tampabay.rr.com

[Len57Belair]

Thanks Mike for the great instructions in installing the windshield.

Question: What is the best type of front seal and where to get them.
Is the seal for the 150 or 210 thicker.

The seal looks to be too thick and is holding the trim away from the body both front and rear.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Long sad story to follow:
I installed the front and rear windshields.
Added extra clips to the rear and used 3/8 butyl strip caulk in rear.

The front windshield was about 15 years old. I went in tight but fit. The next day it was cracked all the way down the on the left about 12 inches from the driver side.

The driver side door post is about 1/4 inch pushed in towards the center of the car so the windshield is a little tight on the driver side. I have installed four windshields this way over 30 years and none of them leaked.

I took the car a glass shop. I have used them before. The glass guy has been doing it for 30 years and is familiar with the 57.

He had trouble also. The lower front molding does not like to fit in the curve at the corners. It looks like it got damaged at the clip area before the curve and is holding it away.

The wiper escutcheons will not go on.
The glass guy filled the gaps with RTV and now I can not get the trim to lay flat enough to get the wiper escutcheons on

There is a big gap at the top of the rear windshields molding and the bottom has popped off even though I added four extra clips

The Plan:
It looks like I will have to remove both windshields. All the Interior trim has been installed along with the new interior.

I will order new windshield seals, moldings, wiper escutcheons,
I will use less chalking in the rear. (1/4inch bead.)
I will attach the escutcheons before tightening the molding nuts.
I will add more clips to the rear.
I will do it my self wit the help of my friend bill. (6'3" with long arms)

Well you know what they say three times is the charm.

[Thumper]

Thanks Mike for the great instructions in installing the windshield.

Question: What is the best type of front seal and where to get them.
Is the seal for the 150 or 210 thicker.

The seal looks to be too thick and is holding the trim away from the body both front and rear.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Long sad story to follow:
I installed the front and rear windshields.
Added extra clips to the rear and used 3/8 butyl strip caulk in rear.

The front windshield was about 15 years old. I went in tight but fit. The next day it was cracked all the way down the on the left about 12 inches from the driver side.

The driver side door post is about 1/4 inch pushed in towards the center of the car so the windshield is a little tight on the driver side. I have installed four windshields this way over 30 years and none of them leaked.

I took the car a glass shop. I have used them before. The glass guy has been doing it for 30 years and is familiar with the 57.

He had trouble also. The lower front molding does not like to fit in the curve at the corners. It looks like it got damaged at the clip area before the curve and is holding it away.

The wiper escutcheons will not go on.
The glass guy filled the gaps with RTV and now I can not get the trim to lay flat enough to get the wiper escutcheons on

There is a big gap at the top of the rear windshields molding and the bottom has popped off even though I added four extra clips

The Plan:
It looks like I will have to remove both windshields. All the Interior trim has been installed along with the new interior.

I will order new windshield seals, moldings, wiper escutcheons,
I will use less chalking in the rear. (1/4inch bead.)
I will attach the escutcheons before tightening the molding nuts.
I will add more clips to the rear.
I will do it my self wit the help of my friend bill. (6'3" with long arms)

Well you know what they say three times is the charm.

Boy, I can relate to your problems, I'm still having to re-install the rear window on the 57 2dr hardtop, this is what I have found to be the main things stopping the moldings setting right (not sure what model yours is but I hope some of this feedback can help).

- The reproduction rear molding clips are hopeless unless they are modified. The top needs 0.040" ground off, the barb needs to be pulled out so it is at 30 deg, then put a needle file through the barb hole and sharpen the barb till it pricks when it's touched. Make sure that when the clips are installed, the barb touches the body reveal. I have been advised to put a smear of grease on the body reveal behind the clips, to stop the molding leg chipping the paint when it's installed.

- My previous seal was new, but old stock and it was hard, so it is now to be replaced by a new T&N seal which is much softer.

- make sure all of the moldings have been prefitted to check the shape is correct.

- the window should be centered and should have an even gap between the seal and the body reveal, the window can be pushed around a bit to get it right.

- The rear pillar outer s/s moldings were not off this car, so the position the rear screw located the molding made the reveal rebate for the lower window moldings, too proud of the body by nearly 1/8", this prevented the lower moldings from seating correctly between the clip and the body. These pillar moldings have now been repositioned further forward, so the reveal is now flush.

Hope this helps my installation, and others if they get the same problems.
It seems that if you get a complete vehicle, and not a collection of parts like I did, most of these problems are avoided.

[John Marks]

Does any one know were can I buy a T & N windshield seal for a 1957 2 door hard top? I would appreciate the info. Thanks.


John

[56-210sedan]

Does any one know were can I buy a T & N windshield seal for a 1957 2 door hard top? I would appreciate the info. Thanks.


John


I would check with Jalapeno a member here at trifive i believe he can get the T&N seals.

[syncro buddy]

thanx mike you made my day syncrobuddy

[garryh]

Thanks for posting the instructions on how to remove the front and rear glass, it was very helpful but with one small inconsistency. The RHS & LHS lower mouldings on my back glass were also held in place (quite stubbornly) by 2 small screws that attached the moulding to the car and could only be seen once the rubber seal was cut away.

Is this the remnants of a creative replacement somewhere in the car's history, a quirk of Canadian built cars, or???

Thanks again.

Garry

[jpccrowe]

"The RHS & LHS lower mouldings on my back glass were also held in place (quite stubbornly) by 2 small screws that attached the moulding to the car and could only be seen once the rubber seal was cut away."

thats interesting because my 55 2 door sedan had the same thing, two small screws through the lower part of the moulding....instead of putting them back in i added more clips around that bend. seems to be good. i just thought somebody was rigging the trim up because it popped out..

[fiddlerpin]

I recently purchased a 57 4dr sedan with parts. In the trunk were 2 new front and rear window gaskets. Is there a way to tell if they are TN gaskets? I've heard other members say there are problems with the gaskets from other part sources

[D.PHILLIPS]

JUST PURCHASED A MOLDING RELEASE TOOL MADE BY STECK: PART # 21500, PRICE $6.50.

[bob maynard]

Thanks Mike
It was like I thought ,but needed conformation
Bob

[NTSOS]

When the rear window stainless was removed and replaced, the center bottom stainless popped up after about a week of driving around. I can push it down with my palm, but it obviously does not hold for long.

Short of removing the entire stainless/window/seal and replacing all of the clips, plus extras, is there any quick fix that would allow me to just sit around and drink Budweiser as opposed to installing the new clips? Gasp!

Thanks!

http://www.pbase.com/image/122611319.jpg


John

[BigOlDog]

Ok so I've read some and searched some. I recently had a glass company look at my front and rear windows and they said they were in right just didn't have sealant in them. So I paid them 90 dollars and thought I was ok. :stupid:

So in my search for an answer I came across this thread and have a few questions now. One leak is on the back panel in the corners for the rear window. And when you open the trunk you see a little water spot on the wheel wells. So my questions for this window:

Could the window not be in right and I need to remove it and try again? Could it be the sealant or the seal as a whole. How about the rear glass drain seals? IF drain seals can the "drain seals" be put in with the window in? Could the seals be clogged and causing it to back up onto the panel? If not a combination of all this?

I could only think my leak in the trunk is the drain seals, because the hose is wet sometimes. But on the inside on the corner of the back panel Im not sure.

Front window:

I get a wet spot on the floor board in the corner by the post that comes down were the door meets the car. (if that makes sense) There is a wet spot on both sides in the same spot. Which makes me think that its not the front window so I ask yall.

If the front window was in wrong would that be where I should/could be getting a leak? Could it be from the side and vent windows and running down the inside of the door and out there onto the floor?

And what is the "window gutter inner cowl panel drain seals"? Are they for front or back window? And obviously I don't know what they are so how bad do I need them?:eek:


Sorry for the long post but I wanted to try to give yall as much information as possible. Thanks for all the answer and pointers in advance.:beer:

[0821paul]

I'm ready to install my windows do i have to install the headliner first or can it be done later

[fiddlerpin]

Great how to! Thanks Mike Jim

[badge]

I'm ready to install my windows do i have to install the headliner first or can it be done later

[brads57]

Dumb?55,56,57 front and back glass on a 210 2 or 4 door the same?:confused0006:

[chevman57]

55,56,57 front and back glass on a 210 2 or 4 door the same?
Brad, the 2dr and 4dr sedan will have the same glass in them.
Terry

[brads57]

Thanks Terry ,found a 56 4 door at a local yard 100 bucks think we'll bring her home:tu Brad

[Barn57]

I have the clips on the pinch welds and the seal on the glass. I tried putting it in with the cord in the channel but when it got to the top corners the seal didn't want to slip in. Is there something I'm missing? I started from the middle of the bottom so whats my hangup?
:hmpf:

[chevman57]

Try a little soap and water on the rubber to help it slip over it.
Terry

[Barn57]

I still cant get it. I evan cracked it. Has anyone had bad glass from Auto City Classics?

[LS6_56]

Several months ago I installed a new windshield and seal (both from Danchuk). A few weeks later while jacking the car for maintenance the windshield cracked in the corner left of the driver. My best quess is that it was under stress since installation and jacking tweeked it to far. Where is the best source of window glass and seals.

[Doc Gunslammer]

Mike thanks for your help, do you have to use any sort of adhesive or glue when putting the front and rear glass in, I have a 57 Belair 4 door. Thanks doc.

[chrismike]

Thanks for the post on this.A lot of guys that buy a car with the glass out need help with this. My car had no glass and I learned alot by just trying to put the side glass in. Not that hard to do. The front and rear windshields and trim I needed guys that have done it before to do it right.:bowtieb:

[57borntorun]

Did I miss something,but how do you remove the windshield?

[roger1]

Did I miss something,but how do you remove the windshield?
From post #1,

"Once the stainless is off, you can push the glass out from the inside while rolling the inner flap on the gasket down toward the glass. If your replacing the gaskets, your golden. Just take a box knife and cut the rubber flap off the inside and lift the glass out."

[bgoodz]

Excellent post MikeKY and finding it is perfect timing. My long frame off project has finally made it home from a long stay at the body and paint shop. I've finished all the side glass install and all new fur channels. Next is the front and back window and since it's been numerous years since I took it all apart I'm not remembering some key points :)

I can't remember the spacing for the rear clips for the stainless. Does anyone know the spacing or is it just even them all out? After reading this whole post it maybe a good idea to order a new set to add more with the ones that came off?

I've had the rubbers seals for numerous years also but put them on the glass when I removed. Recently purchased a new back tinted glass. After reading the post I'm wondering if it would be a good move to purchase all new seals and with the positive remarks about the T&N seals I would consider those but where or who has that brand?

thanks guys, again excellent place for assistance and excellent thread.

Bill

[56-210sedan]

I still cant get it. I evan cracked it. Has anyone had bad glass from Auto City Classics?

Did you contact Auto City Classics? i am not positive but i think there are 2 different window rubber thickness it you do not get the correct one for the glass you are installing it can crack. I have always been told to buy new rubber when ordering window's.

[roger1]

Both my backglass and windshield came from Auto City. They fit beautifully in my '55 hardtop. I did not buy my rubber from them. I got T&N rubbers from East Coast Chevy.

My back glass is in for good but I installed the windshield for a trial fit and then removed it. I am going to now paint the top and then put the windshield back in.

[bgoodz]

Thanks Guys,
I recently purchased the tinted back glass at the Goodguys Pleasanton Nationals from Auto City Classics. The seal gasket either came from Danchuck or Ecklers awhile back.

What spacing intervals did you use for the ss clips? and did you use extras also. I still have the originals but thinking of ordering another set to have a few extras to put in as Mike advised.

Did you put a bead weather sealant around the opening before installing the glass or apply it after the glass and rubber seal was installed? What sealant did you use?

Thanks again,
Bill

[roger1]

Thanks Guys,
I recently purchased the tinted back glass at the Goodguys Pleasanton Nationals from Auto City Classics. The seal gasket either came from Danchuck or Ecklers awhile back.
What spacing intervals did you use for the ss clips? and did you use extras also. I still have the originals but thinking of ordering another set to have a few extras to put in as Mike advised.
Did you put a bead weather sealant around the opening before installing the glass or apply it after the glass and rubber seal was installed? What sealant did you use?
Thanks again,Bill

I hope your rubber seal works OK. I've heard the Danchuk ones are hard compared to the Soff Seal and T&N.

I used extra clips around the lower corners. As far as spacing, you can see notches where the clips are supposed to be used.

I didn't use any sealer first. This may not be right, but I can't see why it wouldn't seal just fine by filling the gap between the seal and body after installing. In fact, I'm not going to seal it until right before installing the stainless. I'm going to use 3M 08509 that remains soft. I'm thinking about sealing it from the inside as well for extra insurance. It looks like it would be easy to use a hook and pull the flap up and squirt sealer against the inside of the seal and do a couple inches at a time.

[bgoodz]

Thanks Roger, I'm going to order some additional clips for the rear. We'll be installing the front windshield tomorrow. :p3:

[Bilaire]

"The RHS & LHS lower mouldings on my back glass were also held in place (quite stubbornly) by 2 small screws that attached the moulding to the car and could only be seen once the rubber seal was cut away."

thats interesting because my 55 2 door sedan had the same thing, two small screws through the lower part of the moulding....instead of putting them back in i added more clips around that bend. seems to be good. i just thought somebody was rigging the trim up because it popped out..

Thanks for posting the instructions on how to remove the front and rear glass, it was very helpful but with one small inconsistency. The RHS & LHS lower mouldings on my back glass were also held in place (quite stubbornly) by 2 small screws that attached the moulding to the car and could only be seen once the rubber seal was cut away.

Is this the remnants of a creative replacement somewhere in the car's history, a quirk of Canadian built cars, or???

Thanks again.

Garry

When I removed the rear window and seal, there were two retaining clips (for stainless) that were not only seated over the pinch weld near the bottom of the curve (Both sides) but they were also held in place by a screw down through the tab that would hold the stainless in place.

Was that done at the factory or by PO to hold the stainless in place on the upward curve on both sides??

[bgoodz]

I hope your rubber seal works OK. I've heard the Danchuk ones are hard compared to the Soff Seal and T&N.

I used extra clips around the lower corners. As far as spacing, you can see notches where the clips are supposed to be used.

I didn't use any sealer first. This may not be right, but I can't see why it wouldn't seal just fine by filling the gap between the seal and body after installing. In fact, I'm not going to seal it until right before installing the stainless. I'm going to use 3M 08509 that remains soft. I'm thinking about sealing it from the inside as well for extra insurance. It looks like it would be easy to use a hook and pull the flap up and squirt sealer against the inside of the seal and do a couple inches at a time.

Roger,
Where did you guys get your Soft Seal and T&N Seals from?

Thanks,
Bill

[roger1]

Roger,
Where did you guys get your Soft Seal and T&N Seals from?
Thanks,BillI got T&N front and rear rubber from East Coast Chevy.

[bgoodz]

Thanks Roger,
BTW, I enjoyed all your 55 project shots. Put my front windshield in last weekend and everything went ok. Installed all the stainless the following day. The only thing that is bugging me is the gap at each upper roof line corners and we pushed, hand slapped, nudged, coaxed all we could to get the corners tighter to no avail. I'm wondering if it might be the stiff rubber seal? The back tinted glass is going in next. I have a rubber seal but contemplating ordering one from ECC at see how that works and if it's better I think at some point re doing the front.

Bill

[roger1]

Thanks Roger, BTW, I enjoyed all your 55 project shots. Thanks. Most of the photos I've loaded there have been so I could post them in various threads. So, they're not organized very well and there's a lot of them.


Put my front windshield in last weekend and everything went ok. Installed all the stainless the following day.You did put the 2 upper pieces of stainless in the rubber before installing the windshield, right?


The only thing that is bugging me is the gap at each upper roof line corners and we pushed, hand slapped, nudged, coaxed all we could to get the corners tighter to no avail. I'm wondering if it might be the stiff rubber seal? Could be. On mine I had to pull the rubber seal up towards the edge a little to get the corners to fit better. I wouldn't say it's 100% perfect but the pulling did get it close and very acceptable to me.

[bgoodz]

Yes, the upper stainless was installed in the seal prior to installing the glass.

We did pull and pull but there is still a gap almost the same on both sides and I'm thinking it might be the older seal. The gap is probably an 1/8" at the widest but to me it looks wider as the rest of it fits pretty snug.

Bill

[Greg@Easy Street]

Bill,

Call Rich at SoffSeal direct and tell him that Greg sent you and he will take care of you.

[bgoodz]

Fantastic. thanks Greg. Would you have a number? or direct me to where the numbers is. I've just been having some emails with ECC regarding the T&N but would prefer trying the SS

Bill

[bgoodz]

Got it Greg with Ol Google :)

Thanks again
Bill

[Greg@Easy Street]

Bill,

The number to soffseal is 1-800-426-0902, if Rich is not there call back because he is the best there and make sure you tell him I sent you.

Greg

[Flint]

Danchuk has a great tech article on front windshield replacement:
http://www.danchuk.com/images/Downloads/Tech%20Articles/Tech_Article_16.1_windshield_seal_replace.pdf

[55 dream]

I am having trouble with the rear trim molding I don't get how or were to use the T tool doses anyone have a pic? On how to use this tool......

[roger1]

I am having trouble with the rear trim molding I don't get how or were to use the T tool doses anyone have a pic? On how to use this tool......
http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages/M/MR215_14133.gif

Just get a tip of the "arrow" behind the clip and when you rock the tool, it will release the clip.

[bgoodz]

55 Chev 2 Dr. Sedan
This last piece of glass install job is not going well at all and has me frustrated and perplexed after eight hours of wrestling with the stainless and clips.

I got new clips first from Ecklers and after reading about installing a few more around the bottom curve I figured I needed a few more so with Danchuck being closer to me I ordered another set from them. There is a slight difference between both sets in height but I don't think that is the problem.

The tinted glass is from Auto City, the seal/gasket either from Danchuck or Ecklers and when I don't remember, sometime back. Placed all the clips in same position as indicated by an install article plus a couple more at the bottom curves. Glass install went ok with a buddy helping me and pulling the lip over the pinch weld was not a problem. The PROBLEM started with the stainless install and the stainless not conforming to contours of the body or glass .

The original stainless when removed years ago was sent out and polished, wrapped and put away for later install. Some how something got on the upper stainless and etched into it deep enough to not allow sanding or polishing out.

Bought another piece from a local guy that came off a 55 Dr Sedan, had it polished but the form was not fitting well and the clips would not hold it in place. I notched the T sections in various locations to get it to bend and slowly formed the top section to conform to the curve. Have a few small dimples but it appears they can be sanded an polished out (strange thing is we tried to fit the original piece with the etched blemish and its fit was worse).

Now onto the bottom curve sections (originals) and they don't fit well at all and the clips will not hold them, the keep popping out even at the straight section and the very bottom middle sections toward the center. You get one section to hold and it pops the opposing section out of the clips and the stainless sections are hard to form to a closer fit prior to snapping into the clips.

The whole problem seems to be the form of the stales not being true to the body and window curves. I'm thinking about removing the back tinted window, ordering another matching set of clips from Danchuck (as they are a tallest sets), order a new gasket seal from Softseal and attempting another install BUT I will still have the stainless trim fit problem. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to correct it ? how did you re-form the stainless?

Sorry for the length of the post guys but I wanted to explain the whole situation for clarity. The whole lengthy build is or was turning out real nice until this chaos hit. Any input, advise or fix suggestions would be appreciated.

Frustrated Bill

[55 dream]

I was not able to release my molding clips with tool I just didn't no how those clips worked never took of molding before I just kept working it with a screw driver till it came off. Here is a pic of those clips, like roger1, posted keep working it with tool it will come.

[bgoodz]

I think you get the tool in-between the body and the clip and rotate or twist the tool and clip back or out a bit and the stainless will release from the clip pressure. However, I have the opposite problem with the new clips not clamping down or holding the stainless in place. I think my problem is the contour of the stainless not conforming to the body curves and it's very hard to get the stainless to conform or bending it to conform. I think I might have ruined a recently acquired piece of top stainless and this piece is not reproduced :(

Good luck and keep working at it but be careful to not bend the stainless out of it's current form. I'm wondering if in the polishing stage it changed the bends and twists of the original shapes. And the big question is how to bend it back into shape without ruining it.

[bgoodz]

Well...... I think I have found the culprit...the seal / gasket.
I decided after wrestling with the polished stainless and might have ruined a piece or two to go back to ground zero. Cut the seal, removed the glass, cleaned up all the caulking sealant and snapped in the lower sections of both sides and the fit. Word to the wise fellas, pre-fit all the stainless prior to installing the seal and glass...duh. Have ordered a Soft Seal and from a shop that gets their seal form Steal something so I can inspect the seals for softness and flatness to make sure it's not going to push against or inhibit the installation of the stainless. I might even install without the adhesive to make dbl sure the remove and install again with the adhesive and hopeful for the last time. It has to be either the gasket / seal or the glass.

Bill

[jimz56]

Let me know if that new seal is the problem because i have the same problem. I can get it to stay in and then it just pops out all by itself....jim

[bgoodz]

Hey Jim,
Hope you got your problem corrected by now and I just saw your posting. I finally got mine fixed and yes it was the seal causing all the trim to pop out of the clips. I ended up cutting the Danchuck Seal and removing the rear glass, cleaning out all the caulking, installed all the clips again and this time I dry fitted all the trim and no problems with popping out. I order new seals from SoftSeal and one from Steel Rubber. Both looked great and softer. I elected to go with the Steel Rubber seal and it appeared to have a smaller radius on the outside bead and was a bit more flat. I still had a bit of a problem with the seal crawling up on the glass at each top outside corners but I'm pretty sure that is from the curve of the rear glass. At any rate, I had no problem with the stainless fit this time and everything popped in and fit with nothing popping back out.

Bill

[Rathbone]

Below are some pictures we took as we reinstalled the windshield in the wagon. They may prove helpful.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937135.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937165.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937177.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937199.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937214.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937227.jpg

Paul

I need to install the lower trim on a car I recently bought. How did you get from photo 4 to photo 6? What holds it in place? There has to be something more than the windshield wiper bezel.

[roger1]

I need to install the lower trim on a car I recently bought. How did you get from photo 4 to photo 6? What holds it in place? There has to be something more than the windshield wiper bezel.I'll tag on to your question because I only partially know the answer and need to put these on my car soon.

There is a trim clip that goes between the bezel and the corner that has a stud and it goes through a hole and is secured by a nut under the dash. There is one of these for each trim piece.

My holes were welded up so I need to re-drill them and don't know exactly where to do it. Plus, I have a Rain Gear wiper setup under the dash as well as a Vintage Air evaporator. Most of my dash is assembled so I don't know how much I have to remove to be able to get in there and install the nuts.

Can any one advise us here on this question?

[Rathbone]

I don't have any holes either! My whole cowl has been replaced with a new piece.

[tbm1949]

Roger, I just replaced my windshield. I was able to drop the outer ducts down out of the way to make enough room to remove the nuts holding the trim with the aid of a quarter inch swivel on a one foot extention. I haven't attempted to put them back yet. I also have V/A and rain gear under the dash. It is tight. It will be tough to determine where to drill the holes.

[roger1]

Roger, I just replaced my windshield. I was able to drop the outer ducts down out of the way to make enough room to remove the nuts holding the trim with the aid of a quarter inch swivel on a one foot extention. I haven't attempted to put them back yet. I also have V/A and rain gear under the dash. It is tight. It will be tough to determine where to drill the holes.Thanks Terry.
I assume you are talking about the VA defrost ducts?
I'm not sure that these are in the same place on a '57 and '55. I had read that '57's originally had 2 ducts and the '55 has 4.
My VA ducts are mounted on the 2 inner duct openings and the 2 outer openings are not used.

Can you take a picture of yours from the outside and show me where your clip holes are located?

[roger1]

I went back and looked at the 4th picture in that set of pictures vabeach56wagon posted.
It looks like you can see the hole for the clip right at the corner.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/632342/1203187/81937199.jpg

Man, I don't know how I'm going to be able to access that area on both sides from the inside.

I wonder if there is a way to do a modification on the clip stud to where it would just push in and lock in place?

[tbm1949]

Thanks Terry.
I assume you are talking about the VA defrost ducts?
I'm not sure that these are in the same place on a '57 and '55. I had read that '57's originally had 2 ducts and the '55 has 4.
My VA ducts are mounted on the 2 inner duct openings and the 2 outer openings are not used.

Can you take a picture of yours from the outside and show me where your clip holes are located?

Roger, sorry about not being clear, I was referring to the left and right a/c ducts under the dash. My trim is back in place held there by the wiper bezel for now. That is a good picture from the wagon showing the hole location. If you adapt the studs to pop in ,remember you may have to remove them again.

[roger1]

Thanks Terry.
Yes, they would need to have the ability to be pulled back out too. I have a Fastenal store in town and another bolt specialty place too. I may take the clips there and see if they have anything that will work.

It sure would be easier down the road too in case this windshield ever needs to be replaced. I'm going to drive this car on very long trips so that sure is a possibility.

I just found my new clips for the windshield trim. There are 5 clips in the bag. There must be 2 on each side and one larger clip for the middle. However, only 2 have the studs. The other 3 screw on.

[Kail]

Well written instructions, we had trouble with our back glass, knew we needed to add clips to get it to hold. But just to be sure my bases were covered I read your posting and it was very clear and informative.

[grank57]

hi mike. im trying to figure out how to remove my stainless trim from around my rear quarter windows on a 57 belair 4-door sedan. it appears to be a two piece molding. at the peak of the window there must be some kind of clip, because its all loose but that spot. im trying to not bend or destroy my trim, it would be very hard to replace and its in like new condition. any info would help, thanks.

[slowfinger]

I'm kinda from the show me state sometimes....after chrome removal on windshield do you physically cut out the old gasket around glass? It didn't mention, that I read how the glass is removed from windshield frame? Don't see any clips unless they are rotted away....Hmmm. Thanks for any input. Geo.

[jorlando34]

Do the clips go just on the top and bottom? Should they go up the sides? My lower trim had a machine screw in the apex of the bend is that normal? I have 22 clips in my new set, so i have plenty to go up the sides. There were only 12 when i took the trim off.

[chevman57]

Do the clips go just on the top and bottom? Should they go up the sides? My lower trim had a machine screw in the apex of the bend is that normal? I have 22 clips in my new set, so i have plenty to go up the sides. There were only 12 when i took the trim off.
Yes there should be some clips up the side also.
Terry