Oil Pan leak issue.

[Steve Allen]

I had recently swapped out my old 350 small block for a custom build 350 by a top engine builder. During the install, we had to pull the oil pan [my guys]. The pan is a milodon with the one-piece gasket. After the re-install of the pan, an oil leak immediately developed at the rear of the pan at the very top. I decided we would have the pan re-installed by a local Hot Rod shop. This Rod shop happens to be one of the countries top five shops, and if I told you their name, you would immediately recognize it. They did the re-install, and immediately, the oil leak occurred at the same spot. At this point, I had them chuck the pan into the dumpster, and acquired another identical milodon pan. They again re-installed the pan with a new one-piece gasket again. This time we nailed the leak at the rear of the pan [at the top], but now have a leak at the pan next to where the starter is. What are we doing wrong here?

My only thought is I have drawn a somewhat limited mechanic at this shop [which is always possible] and he really has little experience with installing these pans.

[Sweden]

Hi

Is the leak where the bolts are?

If so i had to take a little hammer with a round top and adjust those holes so they dont reach the engineblock so the oilpan is straight to the block.

i hope you understand, its diffecult to explain in english.

Good Luck

[chevman57]

Owe in other words you are saying to make sure the pan bolts haven`t been tightened down so tight as to dimple the pan flange, right? An over tightened pan gasket is as bad as a loose pan.
Terry

[Steve Allen]

It looks like the oil is bleeding from the edge of the pan. This I would think was not enough silicon in the area. My thought is to put it back up on the rack after the engine is hot. Then put a transmission jack under it and apply pressure to the lip area of the pan in the leak area [this would eliminate the possibility of stripping out the bolt, as that would be real bad news]. Once some pressure has been put to the pan, then tighten up the bolts in the area of the leak. Otherwise, strip the pan off and go at it again. I just got back from some good hard driving. Once the engine cools, the floor jack and jack stands come out and I'll have another look [if time permits]. Otherwise, I just love this car. It's a real freeway flyer with just gobs of torque...[400 ft.lbs].

[Sweden]

Thanks Terry

You put absolutly right. ;)

Its hard some times to find the right words in English.

[MikeKy55]

I put a new stock pan on mine when I put it in and had a leak at the rear. I pulled the pan and put a liberal coat of RTV along both sides of the gasket surface and re-installed the same pan with a new gasket. It hasn't offered to leak yet.

[Steve Allen]

Mike, I know the Rod shop used RTV Silicon each time. But, there's a heck of a lot of Silicons by different MFG's on the market. Cure times at different temps is also an issue [each time I required them to not start the engine for at least 48 hours after the gasket install, as I had become so parinod]. Being in the Chemical business somewhat, one MFG can state his is the same as the others, and for the most part, their not. Do you remember what Brand and Product number RTV you used.

[Toms57chevy]

Steve what sequence were you using to tighten up your pan. I always start at the corners and then the middle and work my way out alternating side to side. Just a thought.
Tom

[Steve Allen]

Tom,

Thanks for the suggestion. I really don't know, as this is the 2nd go around with the rod shop. Your idea really makes sense, as the corners are always the main issue. On the next go around [and hopefully the last] I will ask them what there doing and get into the details before we start again. This is just not rocket science, but something is wrong here. Either a wrong RTV [or a bad selection as to MFG], or lack of experience. When someone else is doing the work, I usually back away with most suggestions out of respect. At this point, that philosophy is out the door.