View Full Version : Explain in detail - moving rear springs inside frame
02-17-2007, 05:05 PM
Going to try to relocate the rear leaf springs to the inside of the frame next week. what all do I do? Do you weld the hangers or use grade 8 bolts, or BOTH??? I have not looked at it yet. Is pinion angle 3 degrees down or up? Its been awhile since I did one!
02-17-2007, 06:16 PM
Unless your going to tub the car, moving the springs just under the rails works better. The aftermarket guys make kits to do it. Going inside the rails makes the car a little top heavy in turns. Meaning more body roll.
02-28-2007, 02:56 PM
Mike is spot on here, a pocket kit is a good consideration. I have plans if you decide to go this way.
Pinion angle, wow, now there is a can of worms. Typically, stock configuration of the 55-57 V8 application, car untouched and sitting at normal ride height, the intake manifold to carb mating surface was level and a condition of about 3 1/2 ° downhill existed at the transmission output shaft centerline. The pinion angle, regardless of the transmission output shaft centerline angle needs to be parallel to it (Trans). So, if it (trans) points down 3 °, the pinion points up 3 °. Some may disagree, but for normal roadworthy conditions, and a good life respective to u-joints, it’s best to do it this way.
02-28-2007, 03:47 PM
You need a cutting wheel to remove the factory spring hanger's from the frame as well as the leaf spring pad's. Clean the inside area of the frame for the welding of the hangers. Measure, tack weld the hangers in the new location's.The factory right side hangers become the NEW left side hangers on the inside of the frame rails and vise-versa. Measure and weld. You will need to place an angle finder either on the harmonic balancer or the trans output shaft to measure the downward angle of the engine, for instance -2 degrees. Then set the pinion angle at the matching opposite angle of +2 degrees keeping the driveshaft in phase. Tack weld the leaf pads to the housing. Measure again then weld. Good luck either way you go.
The pocket kit should come with the pocket which welds inside the frame, forward of the rear, to support the front of the leaf springs, new spring pads for your axle housing, a support/shackle assy for the rear of the springs, and a weld-in piece for the cutout clearance for the shackle swing area. I'm a bad example, as I don't know when to leave well enough alone, but here is the pocket kit before I decided I could lower the leaf springs a little more. (so mine is modified slightly from the kit, but should give you an idea of how it goes in)....
The front of the pocket kit is aligned where the old leaf hole used to be:
Inside view, after installation (body mount removed temporarily):
And the shackle support in the back, and the cutout below for leaf/shackle clearance:
I also modified the shackle pivot as well to make it more substantial than what was in the kit.
More pics on first few pages:
photobucket albums 1955 Chevy Wagon Restoration (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/1955%20Chevy%20Wagon%20Restoration/?start=0)
We mini-tubbed flush with the frame, which was about 2-1/2" in, and it gives you about a 15" wheelwell.
03-01-2007, 01:54 AM
I moved my springs inboard a couple years ago and have no problems and no body roll.
THeres plenty of pics in my picture trail, cut a square out of the trunk floor above both mounts and do the same thing under the back seat, makes cutting the mounts off a lot easier.
Let me know if you need any help,
03-01-2007, 04:59 PM
New guy here. I'm just getting a good look around here at Tri5. I've seen some familiar "faces" so-to-speak so, I don't feel too scared about a new place.:D
Looks like a cool place!
My springs were moved inboard before I bought the car. I'm not sure how much is the inboard springs, weak springs/shocks or what but, I get a lot of roll in the rear when I hit second hard. The right rear dips a lot more than I remember the ones I had 25 years ago.
I added a sway bar to the front and it corners great. But just when I shift hard.
No traction bars yet either. The car had some ladder bars but, the welds were broken at the axle so, I removed them al together.
I plan to do the pocket trick with new springs and traction bars when I get the time and $$$.:D
03-01-2007, 05:26 PM
used the pocket kit from East Coast Chevy. My frame was rough so I had to rebuild a good portion of it while doing this to my 56.
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