Griffin Radiator - Needing Repair!

[Mel56]

Ha! I'm alittle steamed! My 3 year old Griffin Radiator has sprung a leak! I've added stop leak into the radiator and it's not helping. Yes, I know it's time to pull it and (try) to have it repaired. The issue is my A/C will now have to be discharged, condensor is connected to it.

This will again be one of those "snowballed projects". I need to get a correct power steering bracket and I'm now thinking possibly a polished compressor man, does it ever end???!!!

[BAM55]

does it ever end???!!!
Sorry to hear about your issues but the truth is it never ends.

[5ive5ive]

I know how you feel, ilt happens to all of us. But, it will be worth the trouble and you can make some upgrades while you are down. Goood luck and keep your confidence level up. Charles

[Rick_L]

The Griffin tanks are epoxied to the core - this makes repairing it almost impossible - unless you can stop the leak with epoxy.

[Mel56]

The Griffin tanks are epoxied to the core - this makes repairing it almost impossible - unless you can stop the leak with epoxy.

Rick,
That's what I was afraid of. I called Griffin and they said their tanks are braised and they use epoxy as an added strengthener. "In most cases the radiators can be repaired" famous last words from Griffin!

[557B210]

Mel....First bad thing I've heard about Griffin radiators .....Until now, I believed that they were the primo, top of the line unit....Three years sounds a bit ridiculous for the amount of money that they charge for their unit, compared to others.

That being said, I did a temp repair with epoxy on my daughter's T-100 truck radiator a while back and it held up fine, until we put the new one in....I believe the repair would have held for quite some time.

[Chevy Chase]

Mel56, I know this may sound ludicrous...Try putting a tablespoon of Schilling or McCormick black pepper in the radiator while it is running and warmed up. Then take it for a spin. If the leak is coming from pin holes in the finned area of the radiator it should seal up. I learned this trick about 35 years ago from a ol guy in Virginia. It has worked for me and some friends many times. The only thing is you'll have to replenish it when you flush the radiator, and add a can of pepper to your tool box.:cool:

[Rick_L]

Bar's Leak for me.

Mel, you don't have much to lose trying a shade tree approach or even a consult a pro. Just don't spend too much, and don't take a 3000 mile trip until you have confidence it's going to hold a while.

[HIGH ROLLER]

A heat gun and thining out JB Weld has won a race for us course we really heated to cure it might work for you if you can get it super clean we can't use any antifreeze....http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/134_0411_radiator_repair_tech/index.html

[Rick_L]

I've done several things on a drag race engine that I don't think I'd do on my transportation.

I've stopped a leak at the track using epoxy, and a hair dryer to get it to cure fast.

Another leak stopper is "liquid glass" or sodium silicate - you can get it at the drug store.

[Mel56]

Guys, you've made my day! I totally enjoy hearing all of these 'home remedies' to stop a leak. I've tried Alumaseal and Barsleak already. I think that's it for miracle stop leaks. I don't want to plug up the whole motor.

Honestly, I've been crossing my fingers on these 'remedies' but, alas, I think I've come to the conclusion that I'll have to pull the radiator. I have a couple of good cruise events coming up (Hot August Nights in Reno, Nevada and Peggy Sue's Cruise in Santa Rosa, CA) I just would hate it if I can't cruise Reno! I've got a few months before that so, I'm just weighing my options (if any).

I do appreciate all of your remedies. Thanks!

[55mike]

Mel... FWIW... My aluminum radiator sprung a leak last year (crossflow). The problem was in the top (drivers side) corner where the core and the tank (side) and top all met. The coolant would run down the fins in to the bottom area of the radiator. It made me just sick to the stomach. I had visions of $$$ going out the door to replace a radiator. So, I pulled it (easier for me than it will be for you..sorry!) and I took it to a few local radiator shops. No one would touch it. Finally.. I took it a few hundred miles North (to Meridian MS) and found an old time radiator guy who would take a chance on it. He flowed epoxy-resin in to the corner area.... pressure tested it.. and waahhllaaa.. it's been good to go since. Will it run forever? I dunno.. but I'm going to see.
Good luck. I know how you feel.

[Vet65te]

Mel, I have a Griffin in my 56 Nomad and (knock on wood) it's still holding after about 3 years. Where is your leak located? The reason I ask is the old 'fix' for brass/copper radiators that had a leak from one of the tubes usually had that tubed sealed off and the reduction in cooling ability was minimal. Just curious if that same fix can be used for aluminum radiators.
Mike T.

[Mel56]

Mel, I have a Griffin in my 56 Nomad and (knock on wood) it's still holding after about 3 years. Where is your leak located? The reason I ask is the old 'fix' for brass/copper radiators that had a leak from one of the tubes usually had that tubed sealed off and the reduction in cooling ability was minimal. Just curious if that same fix can be used for aluminum radiators.
Mike T.

Mike,
The leak appears to be at seam where the fins and tanks meet. About halfway down the left side (driver's side) of the radiator. On the inside or the engine side. The condensor needs to be disconnected too.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1356/4722145/18082618/324362945.jpg

First though I'd like to drive the car to a radiator shop to see if it's something that can be repaired. Griffin tells me I have a 25% chance that it cannot be repaired. I don't like those odds!

[davepnw]

When you get it repaired or replaced I would make sure the radiator is "grounded" to the chassis/battery negative. Electrolysis is what gets to aluminum radiators. I would and did run a wire from the radiator (screw in hole drilled through radiator frame) to chassis/frame ground. I know of at least 3 cases of this being the problem. Check your continuity with an ohmmeter. Dave

[Vet65te]

Question for All - Are aluminum radiators repairable? I know they are very popular, I have a Griffin in my 56 Nomad and a DeWitt's in my 61 Vette. I don't remember reading any old threads about someone repairing their aluminum radiator. If there was a leak at the header on an older style brass/copper radiator the average radiator shop would just remove the tank and resolder the header at the tube(s) but since aluminum radiators are actually welded and not soldered can they be fixed? And if they can be repaired does that mean a return trip to the manufacturer because the local shop can't perform that fix?
Mike T.

[Rick_L]

If the leak is at an accessible spot on a welded radiator, it can be tig welded to repair. Success at tig welding means the area must be able to be thoroughly cleaned.

As far as blocking a tube on an aluminum radiator to repair it, you have to take the tanks off to do that. I don't think the expense would be warranted.

These questions make me wonder whether one could re-core a welded aluminum radiator and re-use the tanks? I would think you could but I've never heard that you can or can't do that.