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icody
07-13-2010, 10:10 PM
Finally the time has arrived. This Saturday my friends lift is free so I am going to install the new front end (Gasser style) using the new taller coil springs and the ball joint spacers. I also am installing the new rearched 3 inches over stock 5 spring pack, leaf springs in the rear. I plan on taking a lot of progress pictures of the install and will post them later on Saturday evening to help anyone else that is concidering the same way to give there 57 the Gasser stance without going to the straight axle. (However when money does allow I do plan on going to the trditional straight axle.

in the next month I plan on rebuilding the 350 with the loud timing gear, a nice sounding Thumper Cam, a Vintage Edelbrock Tunnelram with 2 450 Holles mounted sideways with the polished alumonum blower scoop poking through the hood as well as a new set of Hooker Fenderwell headers. Really getting excited about finally getting to work on the Gasser Stance!!!! Woooohooooo!!!!:happy0030:

belairrudy
07-13-2010, 10:21 PM
Looking forward to your progress pics. :tu :happy0030: Sounds like you have a good plan.

chevman57
07-13-2010, 10:44 PM
Do you plan to cut a big hole in your hood? If so and don`t want to cut yours send me a PM. I may be able to fix you up there.
Terry

rustycarr
07-13-2010, 10:45 PM
Im going to do the same this this weekend to my 55, just got my spacers,shock extenders,etc, ill try to take pics and ill be watching your progress,,im only 45 miles from you!! o yea what front coils did you decide on?

belairdave
07-13-2010, 10:48 PM
Sounds like the fun is about ready to start:cool0013: Later, Dave

Booty
07-13-2010, 11:03 PM
Good Luck this weekend!! We're looking forward to the pics.

laddyboy
07-13-2010, 11:47 PM
:)
Well it sounds like a couple of guys are going to have a constructive
weekend on their trifives.
I like the taller spring and ball joint spacer set up also.
No frame hack and if you change your mind you can easily go back to
stock.
Be careful when installing the springs its a little harder than it looks.
Take your time.
You may also need shock extentions and a front end alignment for sure.
How will she ride? Well if it's the old skool look your after you will get
the ride as well.
Firm front end with that nice bounce kind of like a hard tail harley.
Smooth ride on a well paved road and that hot rod bounce on others.
Good luck on your projects guys.

trifive
07-14-2010, 12:57 AM
I am not a gasser type person, but I can say that in my opinion a gasser without the front straight axle looks better to me.

I think your cars will look great.

otis:)

chevender
07-14-2010, 02:30 AM
I took the plunge last week and cut my frame. If you ever decide to do it you'll be glad you did. In the meantime, good luck with the new springs and ball joint spacers!
Rick

carls 56
07-14-2010, 09:55 AM
sounds like its going to be cool cody. will be looking forward to pics and updates. :party0031:

cktasto
07-14-2010, 10:40 AM
sounds look like a big weekend coming, hope it all goes smoothly!

scr8p
07-14-2010, 02:52 PM
did you order some narrower front rims, too? i don't know what size rim you have now, or what backspacing it is, but you could run into a problem with the upper control arm hitting the tire.

rustycarr
07-14-2010, 04:09 PM
I had to drill out the upper a arm ball joint bolt holes a tad, to fit the new bolts ,that come with the bj spacers.

icody
07-14-2010, 08:12 PM
Im going to do the same this this weekend to my 55, just got my spacers,shock extenders,etc, ill try to take pics and ill be watching your progress,,im only 45 miles from you!! o yea what front coils did you decide on?

I got the 1963 Chevy Station Wagon Springs with Air Conditioning and a 409. Same as DukeofBluz.

icody
07-14-2010, 08:36 PM
I had to drill out the upper a arm ball joint bolt holes a tad, to fit the new bolts ,that come with the bj spacers.

I bought some used (EBAY) upper and lower A Arms and cleaned them up and painted and added the New Ball Joints to the Lowers and new Bushings

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/1699/dsc0009gw.jpg

...and also cleaned and painted the Uppers and aded the New Ball Joint Spacers and the Ball Joints and New Bushings as well. Will be a dismantel/Swap and install so should go a little faster (won't have to wait for the paint to dry..LOL)

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8276/dsc0010k.jpg

Here is the new Scoop that will be protruding through my Hood...

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9745/dsc0011hp.jpg

...and this is what will be causing the hood scoop to protrude LOL..Plan on getting some new 450 cfm Holleys for the install. I won't be adding this till after the engine rebuild sometime in the next two months!!

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6303/dsc0012y.jpg

icody
07-14-2010, 08:39 PM
Im going to do the same this this weekend to my 55, just got my spacers,shock extenders,etc, ill try to take pics and ill be watching your progress,,im only 45 miles from you!! o yea what front coils did you decide on?

RustyCarr... We will have to meet up sometime as that would be pretty cool to have two Gassers sid by side..SWEEEETTTTT!

thehazmatguy
07-15-2010, 02:11 AM
Icody-

Depending on your set up, I'd suggest flipping the bolts for the ball joint spacers to the "upside down" position. With the bolts facing the direction you have now the bolt threads will contact the bump stop on the frame. You'll gain suspension travel by having the bolts flipped.

My car is set up the same way and I ran into the same issue.

icody
07-15-2010, 09:52 AM
Darn..I thought I read your post and did them the right way..UGH!!! I will switch them around..thanks for the info.

rustycarr
07-15-2010, 07:38 PM
I actually had off work today, and got the springs in, still need to install my shocks and steering . look for my post , with pics and my experience.. dont wanna hijack your thread..

thehazmatguy
07-17-2010, 08:39 PM
Darn..I thought I read your post and did them the right way..UGH!!! I will switch them around..thanks for the info.

It's probably my bad = the picture I have posted has the bolts pointing down but in the text I state the bolts should point up. Basically, my picture is wrong. :)

Good luck! I'm interested to hear how you like the new set up once you get it all ironed out.

icody
07-17-2010, 10:00 PM
OK this has been the day from He##! First off i drove the 57 to my friends house in Bandera TX (about 20 miles or so from my house). So I get there and we decide that its better to switch out the new springs with floor jacks vice his lift. So we jack up one side and I remove the tire and start on the spring removal.
First off we take off the shock and one of the bolts holding the shock to the bottom of the Arm Breaks off. So anyways I get the shock out and I remove the steering. Then I placed the Threaded rod up through the shoch mount and tighten it up as well as place a jack under the lower a Arm. (My friend actually had an original chevy tool for taking the springs out but to be homnest its just like the home made ones!). But before I can go further I have to remove the Generator in the engine bay as it blocks the threaded rod. So I take the Grenrator off. So then I loosen the ball joints and the real fun begins!!! I pound and pound (get a bigger hammer and pound), I do the pickle fork thing and pound ome more after about 1 1/2 hours of pounding and pickling the ball joints come loose from the Spindle. I tie the spindle to one side (as I left the drum brakes all in hooked up an intact)
So we use a combo of floor jack and threaded rod loosing to take out the original spring. I then use a Grinder to grind off the rivets and a torch to remove the rubber bumper mount that is on the frame just under the upper a Arm (it stops the upper a arm from contacting the frame.
So then the real fun begins...We find the best way to install the spring is with again a combo of lifting it with a floor jack and tightening the threaded rod (I found it best to first install the upper a arm then install the spring and the lower a arm as a unit). It is just hanging on the threaded rod. When it gets up tight enough you can connect the Spindle to the ball joints (which gave me some piece of mind about that spring not being able to fly off and break my Face..hahaha). So again just lift using combo floor jack and threaded rod. It will allow it to get high enough to the bolt the lower control arm to the frame using the copper colored nuts. So side one was basically done...we started at 9 AM (took a short break for lunch) and stopped at 5:30. The shock is hard to put in as the angle of the spring blocks it some. I will attack that later with a bottle jack to give me access to the shock bolts. (I do have the shock extension which is needed!!!).
The biggest pain is the fact that wheels I am using (Chevy Ralley wheels) are 15 x 6 withy a rear offset of 4 1/4. So eo make an already long day longer the rims will not work as the offset to the rear allows the upper A Arm to contact the tire. Looks like I need about a 2 1/4 inch rear offset for the front tire to work. So I have to buy new rims and tires. I never got to start on the pasenger side. Had to have my wife come get me!! ugh!!! But.......I did measure the lift on the drivers side and before the new oil spring install the front wheel well was 26 inches off the floor now it measures 31 inches ..,. I gained 5 inches. Still have to do the other side and then order the new rims and tires going with a 15 x 4 with a 2 1/4 offset which should clear the upper a arm. What a long day. Will take pictures when I bring it home.
RUSTYCARR - You did it in a day by yourself...WOW You are the MAN!!... LOL

rustycarr
07-18-2010, 12:08 AM
wow sorry to hear that, i actually live in bandera off 173, you guys gonna tackle it tomorrow? the other side will be tons easier , if you need any help let me know..

icody
07-18-2010, 12:37 AM
I was in Bandera all day Went to eat at the Dairy Queen..LOL I am going to wait till the front rims come in. I just ordered a new set of 15 x 4 (with a 2 inch back spacing) rims. They are from Rocket wheels and are called the Launcher. Basically a grey spoked Gasser front wheel. The 2 inch back spacing should clear the upper A arms since the stock Chevy 4 1//4 inch back spacing didn't!! Probably not gonna get back to it till next weekend! UGH! House duties (i.e. Honey Doo's).

icody
07-18-2010, 02:48 PM
Well at least not being able to use the Front rims due to the wrong back spacing gave me an excuse to order the rims I want for the front. They are from Rocket Wheel Company and are called "Launcher" and are 15 x 4 with a 2 inch back spacing...what do you think??

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5656/rocketfrontwheel.jpg

I should get them in about a week and then get some tires mounted and bolt them up. I probably need to grind the rivets off the stock front drums to get them to fit flush. I can then finish the Taller Spring install and get back on the road. I will probably paint the gray areas on the Launcher with a misting of Gold as I plan to paint the 57 the Original Gold and white while using Yellow window tint for that True Gasser Feel and look! Wish I had a picture of the progres so far but will get that the next time I am out to work on it! As it stands I am pretty sore today...How come in my younger days I could work on the car all day long on 100 degree concrete (In Arizona) but now I am sore as heck..my hands hurt , my feet hurt, my neck and back hurt..heck even my teeth hurt! LOL

MT94SS
07-18-2010, 04:09 PM
:tu:tu:tu:tu:tu:tu:tu:tu:tu

chevender
07-18-2010, 08:15 PM
Love the wheels! They got that cool thing happening.:cool0013:
Rick

Milkcrates
07-21-2010, 11:01 AM
For your shock problem, just die grind the hole for the top shock mount outward until you have get the clearance you need between the shock/spring. Then find a thick washer that has the same diameter inside hole as the frame has, (for the shock rubbers) mark and locate on the frame where you want the new shock location to be and weld. You should have to slot the hole over about 1/2". I've done this on my 56.

icody
07-21-2010, 12:01 PM
Thanks for the shock hint...that will work great

icody
07-23-2010, 09:46 PM
Well here are the New Rocket "Launcher" Wheels all mounted up on 165R15 Radial Tires. The Diameter of the tire is 25.8 inches, The Tires I have on the rear are 27 Diameter tires, so to the naked eye they will look about the same diameter!! Iwill head over to my friends and put them on tomorrow. Was going to finish up on the front end however my wife went into the hospital today so I will be visiting with her and so have no time for the frontend...maybe on Sunday!!

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1951/dsc00023nov.jpg

thehazmatguy
07-24-2010, 10:38 AM
The wheels and tires look great!

rustycarr
07-24-2010, 06:13 PM
me likee those rims..

icody
07-25-2010, 12:55 AM
wELL i WENT TO MY FRIENDS HOUSE AGAIN TODAT AND CUT THE NEW SHOCH HOLE AND WELDED IN A NEW WASHER (Darn CAPS Lock!!).
I also bolted up the new rims and tires..Looks terrific. Then we started on the drivers side. I have it all torn down and just ready for the spring install. Actually we started on the passenger side spring install and the darn spring slipped out of the mount holes!!! UGH!!! So I have to start the spring install over again. So RUSTYCARR....what trick did you use to install the darn springs..The Drivers side was bad enough but the passenger side is giving me and my friend the fits!!!!!

icody
07-25-2010, 02:12 PM
Some have had issues with the Spacer hitting the frame. I didn't have to notch the Frame as some did, but I did take off the round rubber bushing and then cut ff the mount for the rubber bushing. Now when the car sits on a lift the spacers do hit the frame when its fully hanging, but does not hit when the car is on the ground.

BTW I am all done with the front end lift ..stll need to torque down the side bolts on the a arms (now that the full weight of the car is on them). I also need to bolt back in the battery box and the Generator then the front is done (What a job that was!!!).
I still need to switch out the rear leaf springs and add the air shocks. As right now I have a high in the air front nose until I do the rear suspension to level it all out. Up and High GASSER Style..LOL

Will post pictures as soon as I get back home this evening!!

rustycarr
07-25-2010, 02:25 PM
glad you got those springs whooped, i havent installed my shocks yet, any pointers?

icody
07-25-2010, 09:51 PM
Its Done!!!!!

First the Before Shot!!
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4277/stickers22610d.jpg

The the After with the First picture showing the Height difference between my friends stock 57 four doot Hardtop (Sports Sedan I think its called) and my 57 with the 63 Chevy Impala with AC, and 409 V8 Coil Springs along with 3 inch shock extensions and ball joint extensions. Did an entire rebuild of the front end with all new bushings, tie rods, ball joints.
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/1363/dsc0009ri.jpg

This Pictue shows the front end as above and the rear end with the new 3 inch over stock arch rear five pack leaf springs. In the rear I also have Hijacker Air Shocks with 3 inch extensions as well. I think its the perfect height!!!
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/2672/dsc0007el.jpg

This Picture just shows more of the overall lift.
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/8433/dsc0014tf.jpg

Some questions that most will ask was how easy was it to do! Well it was not easy for me...50+ years of gunk and rust really made the tear down hard..if it wasn't for a cutting torch alot of the tear down would have been impossible. Also many will ask what does it ride like...Well it rides like a Buck-board. Rough as heck..but I knew that going in and I was willing to give up that smooth ride, as remember a Gasser is a competition vechicle. But rough ride and all ...I LOVE IT!!! Now I have to add the Fenderwell headers, rebuild the engine so it performs as well as I think it looks (It runs good now), but I have the tunnel ram and stuff (Like a loaper cam I want to run. I also have some new rear Hilbrand looking rims to put on. Also have some yellow window tint I need to install. Over all I love the new Look!

icody
07-25-2010, 10:04 PM
As far as the Shock install in the front I followed "Milkcrates" advise below:
Just die grind the hole (I used a Torch and made the hole bigger) for the top shock mount outward until you have get the clearance you need between the shock/spring. Then find a thick washer that has the same diameter inside hole as the frame has, (for the shock rubbers) mark and locate on the frame where you want the new shock location to be and weld. You should have to slot the hole over about 1/2".

I then aded a 3 inch shock entension that I got from Summit and it went in easy as Pie!!! I have Gabril HiJackers in the rear that do fit (with the 3 inch over stock radias and 5 leaf pack, but I am gonna get another set of 3 inch shock extensions for the rear as well!

Thats about it. Next is the engine rebuild..Found a place on the South side that a few friends have used where they will rebuild the whole Engine, using my Thumper cam and nosey timing gear drive. They Clean and hot tank it, add new freeze plugs, cam bearing, main bearing, rings, redo the heads using my new Comp Cam springs and roller rockers. Bolt it all together, including the heads and set all the valve lash and timing for only 750!!! Sweet deal..!!!!

rustycarr
07-25-2010, 10:07 PM
Wow..night and day.. your car looks great..i look forward to seeing the rear rims and tint.. you ever go to the cruise night in castroville at linquist chevrolet? 2nd friday of every month. huge turnout, love to see your car..

icody
07-25-2010, 10:29 PM
Yes I and a friend (the black 57 in the picture) Have been a few times. I used to have a 1969 Hurst SC/Rambler and have been there with that one. Have went once with my 57. His is a stock 57 4 door hard top! I will try and make it this next month! Its about a 60 mile round trip for me..UGH!!!

Thanks for the compliments.... It was really a hard conversion..but I am really happy that I did it now. Plus if I ever want to go back to stock all I need to do is put back in stock front coil springs and take out the balljoint spacers. But not gonna go back to stock...LOL!!! No stopping Now..HAHAHAH

beernut
07-26-2010, 10:22 AM
MOROSO springs ride good and give the same lift as the 409 springs,they cost about the same also
use the chevelle big-block ones they are the same as tri-5

icody
07-26-2010, 10:34 AM
MOROSO springs ride good and give the same lift as the 409 springs,they cost about the same also
use the chevelle big-block ones they are the same as tri-5

OK....where were you when I was asking about which springs to use...:sign0020:

Oh well....I can deal with the harsh ride!!!:moddhappychevelle22

cktasto
07-26-2010, 11:15 AM
Like the new stance...ALOT!!
Congratulations and nice job!

MikeC55
07-26-2010, 08:18 PM
Looks Great! Did you have your rear springs re-arched or are we able to purchase them that way?

icody
07-26-2010, 09:00 PM
Looks Great! Did you have your rear springs re-arched or are we able to purchase them that way?

I got them that way from a place on Ebay. They have the 5 leaf pack stock arched springs and also the 3 inch re-arched 5 pack springs. I tried to look them up but looks like they do not have any at the moment. Keep checking as they list there often. They are a Spring manufacturing company.

MT94SS
07-27-2010, 09:54 AM
Looking good, icody. Have you tried it without the front bumper? It would look even meaner!

Glad you are able to have fun with yours this summer...

Later,

Mike

icody
07-27-2010, 10:23 AM
Looking good, icody. Have you tried it without the front bumper? It would look even meaner!

Glad you are able to have fun with yours this summer...

Later,

Mike

Mike, I plan on taking the Front Bumper off ASAP and then will add a Moon Tank to the front as well!! I am looking forward to my first Cruise night as a Gasser!!!

Booty
07-27-2010, 10:39 AM
Car looks great icody, good job! With the engine changes, fenderwell headers and the moon tank up front and no bumper - whoa! a true Gasser will be born! Will be waiting for the video with good sound! Then the fun will begin! :congrats:

thehazmatguy
07-27-2010, 08:47 PM
MOROSO springs ride good and give the same lift as the 409 springs,they cost about the same also
use the chevelle big-block ones they are the same as tri-5

I was going to go with the Moroso springs. All of the online info I could find and a couple of local guys said that Moroso springs sag pretty quickly.

I find it a little weird that there are so many of us that have done this and nobody has found a better option than springs that ride harsh? My car rides really well ( stock-ish ) but I don't have the height up as far as the guys with 409 springs.

icody = your car is looking fantastic! Nice!

icody
07-27-2010, 09:05 PM
Thanks Hazmatguy!! I hope to one day have as nice an engine bay as you have!!

icody
07-30-2010, 12:01 AM
Looks Great! Did you have your rear springs re-arched or are we able to purchase them that way?

Here are the ones I bought from Ebay (only 159 bucks for two springs with new bushings!!):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-REAR-5-LEAF-SPRINGS-55-57-CHEVY-CAR-W-3-LIFT-/350310089977?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51901bc4f9

classic gary
07-30-2010, 11:18 AM
i wonder if a spring manufacture would/could make a TALL but "soft" spring. and i wonder if it would be feasable $-wise ?

icody
07-30-2010, 01:28 PM
I think Tall and Soft are a hard to make combo. If its tall (to get the lift) then the Soft would allow it to compress Thus maybe loosing the height.

I was thinking maybe a spacer could be made that goes between the Lower Control arm mount and the Frame that would allow thw taller spring to work without compressing so much that it takes away from the ride quality. I mean heck, a 1963 Impala with a 409 and A/C (which my springs are from) rides good...why so harsh in a 57??

icody
07-30-2010, 05:29 PM
Just bought a set of Fender well Headers from Ebay. I mainly bought them as the price was right ($200.00). Will sand them and clean them up. Looks like I need to grind some on the flanges to make them look better is all. Will be painting them white. They will work (Hopefully), till I can afford a set of Sandersons.

bill1788
07-30-2010, 06:11 PM
Like what your doing to your 57 love it. My freind did his 55 same way 409 springs and ball joint spacers and I have been in that car it rides great I didnt notice any difference really. He had to remove the bump stop he made a point of telling me that because I was planning on doing the same to my car. Check and make sure you remove yours maybe its hitting and keeping the stiff ride.

Just a thought.

icody
07-30-2010, 06:45 PM
Thanks Bill I'll look and see...I know I removed the Upper A Arm Bump Stop, both the rubber and the Mounting (Had to grind two rivets and cut the uper mounts off). I still have the lower bump stops..will check to se it they are hitting. I might have to notch the frame as RustyCarr did to his as well.

Str8axle
07-30-2010, 09:02 PM
I mean heck, a 1963 Impala with a 409 and A/C (which my springs are from) rides good...why so harsh in a 57??

A 409 is a tad bit heavier than a small block...

icody
07-30-2010, 10:12 PM
A 409 is a tad bit heavier than a small block...

:rolleyes: Very True!!! I wonder if anyone is using the same coils that is running a BBC, and if so, I wounder how do they ride???

icody
07-31-2010, 05:37 PM
Brought the 57 home from my friends house (where we did the fonrt and rear suspension work). It ran great but it is a pretty rough ride. It did settle down some after about 2 miles but still a rough ride but not as bad as I anticipated it would be. The Rear was the worst as I had the Hijacker rear air shocks installed but had not hooked up the air lines nor put any air in them yet. As soon as I got home I installed the air line kit and took her down to the local gas ststion for some air. It did improve the ride quality some..(I only put 60 lbs of air in them). Will try maybe 80 - 100 lbs. Other than that its all done as far as the suspension work.

I did notice that the temp gauge rose up too 200 degrees pretty quickly and hovered around 210. Looks like I now need a nice aluminum radiator with possibly a puller fan as well. The temps and humidity are prety brutal here in San Antonio during the Summer (and the Spring, Fall and Winter for that matter..LOL). High 90's today and 104 tomorrow. So looks like an updating of the cooling system is in order..probably even that stuff you add to the water (water wet I think its called), m ight even be needed.

Got a set of Fender well headers off Ebay so will be adding them soon as well..will keep ya'll updated on the progress!

icody
07-31-2010, 08:58 PM
I also just ordered a nice Aluminum 2 Core Radiator from a guy on Ebay (Engineered Cooling Products). It looks pretty nice and hopefully will cure my overheating.. Its all Tig Welded, Includes the new Cap and is for the V8 Mount (same as I have), so its a direct bolt in. If not I'll add the Pusher Fan to the front and also the Shroud if I need to go that far!

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/472/alumrad.jpg

classic gary
08-01-2010, 02:09 AM
and the aluminum radiator is going to make the front of your car even lighter..........
as to the "softer"/taller spring, if you "run the numbers", tall/soft would ride better than the thick wire 409 springs, and still hold up the front of the car.

classic gary
08-01-2010, 02:11 AM
Got a set of Fender well headers off Ebay so will be adding them soon as well..will keep ya'll updated on the progress!

did you get the ones from the guy in Tennesse ? mine look pretty nice except for the "crush tube" bender the guys uses to bend the tubes. I'm gonna use 'em anyway.

icody
08-01-2010, 12:24 PM
did you get the ones from the guy in Tennesse ? mine look pretty nice except for the "crush tube" bender the guys uses to bend the tubes. I'm gonna use 'em anyway.

No..I got them from a guy in MN. They look ok in the photos (But we all know what a photo can hide), so looking forard to getting them so I can see what they are actually like. Looks like they might even be home made. The Mounting flange loos to be a pretty solid piece so I might need to do some grinding on the edges (rounding them off as now they are straight), and making room for things like thr dip stick and such. Will have to wait and see.

The Aluminum radiator will make the front end some what lighter...Gesshh, it really does ride like a truck.

I think my main issue is the rear air shocks are too long when fully compressed. They fit in the mounts when fully compressed so I have no compression movement as they are already at full compression! What I mean, is when I hit a bump they cannot compress as they are already fully compressed!! Looks like I need to get some shorter Rear Shocks That I have to extend to get them into the mounts, that way I can have some compression too! I thought I would have trouble with them being too short, not too long. BTW they are Hijacker air shocks. Look like I will oreder some shocks that I can order them by compression and fully extended length!!! The Front seems to be doing OK as far as the ride!

classic gary
08-02-2010, 12:41 AM
are the rear shocks still bolted to the floor, or do you have a crossmember back there. 'cause if no crossmember, those air shocks are going to eventually break thru the floor, seen it MANY times.

icody
08-02-2010, 09:12 AM
Yes they are bolted to the floor...I doubt that I can bolt them to a Cross member as they are already fully compressed to get them into the floor mounts so the cross member would make them even shorter! But I ordered a set of Gas charged KYB's for the rear so hopefully that will cure the lack of compression travel. If they work then I will also get the Rear shock crossmember kit!

icody
08-05-2010, 10:14 PM
Replaced the HiJackers Air Shocks with some KYB Double valved Gas Shocks. I also aded a 3 inch Shock extension to make up for the 3 inch over stock radias rear leaf springs. What a differance in ride quality. Heck its a Gasser so still a harsh ride but 80 times better with the gas rear shocks instead of the Air Shocks.
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/7039/dsc00062mv.jpg

I aso hope I cured my Over heating issus as I replaced the stock V8 1957 Chevy Radiator with a nice Aluminum 2 Cor Radiator. Its a nice lookinking setup. I took her for a shak down cruise and after riding around for about an hour the tem Gauge never got ove 180!! Oh course its cooler now so will try another shake down tomorrow in the heat of the day to see what she runs at. I plan on still adding some water wetter to it as well. I think I have it licked though.
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/4841/dsc00012e.jpg

I also got in the Fenderwell Headers. They look great as far as the tubes and such..but the engine flanges look like crap...will need some grinding and filling work with the mig but will be just fine. Might even take it to a place and have them take off the engine flanges and buy some Hooker Flanges and weld the pipes to them for a cleaner look is all, and then Jet-Hot Coat them..They should look pretty nice then!!

icody
08-07-2010, 05:51 PM
Took the 57 out for a Mid Day Shakedown in the heat of the day! It ran 180 with the new Radiator. I did get caught is some pretty bad stop and go (Traffic and lights led to the jam), but it only creeped up to about 200 and then it quickly came back down to 180 as I started to move. I might add a pusher Fan to the front just in case I ever get caught in that type of trafic again. All in all I am very impressed with the New Radiator (and it was only 284 Dollars Delivered!!!).
Here is another shot of the 57:
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6061/dsc0001kq.jpg

Gonna take of the Front Bumper Later this week..Will Post some pictures when I do!

557B210
08-07-2010, 07:05 PM
Your ride is lookin' sweet Cody....Any plans for the wheels?

icody
08-07-2010, 08:47 PM
Thanks for the compliment. The Fronts will stay the same and Gonna get these ET's for the rear in a 15 x 8 with as wide a tire as I can fit...
http://images.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91058674_L.jpg
Not going to cut the rear wheel wells..I think it looks great on a 55 but I like the look of stock rear Quarters on a 57 (just my Opinion). I still have to put on the Fenderwell Headers. I was going to Jet-Hot coat them but decided I would paint them a Flat White instead. Then comes the Rebuilding of the engine and the Detailing of the engine Bay. Its starting to look like what I have envisioned for her!

icody
08-09-2010, 07:58 PM
Another Update!!

Took the 57 to work today so on the way home I could stop off at our Local "Break Check" Store where I took it to get the frontend aligned. I forgot to take the specs with me but thanks to my new iPhone and the Tri-Five Website I looked them up while there and gave them to the Frontend guy! They did a Fantastic Job! I have not have it aligned since I did the Frontend rebuild and new Coil Spring install. So needless to say it was pretty out of wack! They got it as close to stock as possible and the 57 now Handles like a dream (as far as the steering goes), it tracks straight, the steering wheel in on straight and the tires are not cock-eyed..LOL Best of all it took only 1 hour and was only 62 bucks. A Great Deal I think and a nice piece of mind that the frobt-end is done!

rustycarr
08-09-2010, 10:55 PM
car is looking great cody!! which brake check did you go to? if they know what there doing i might go there as well. I got my fender well headers rough fitted, still need to paint them, or even wrap them, ill post pics in my post about headers..

icody
08-09-2010, 11:39 PM
Can't wait to see the Fenderwells. They did a geat job on my car. I went to the one on 281 Right before Thousand Oaks Drive. They ae next too a Rainbow playscape dealer. The Manager (Owner?) Used to race Dirt Track so he understand Toe in/out and Camber adjustments. Got it as close as he could what with the lift we have and the talled springs..but its right on as much as I can tell and see!

4drsedan
08-10-2010, 11:41 PM
I find it a little weird that there are so many of us that have done this and nobody has found a better option than springs that ride harsh? My car rides really well ( stock-ish ) but I don't have the height up as far as the guys with 409 springs.

I just found this site and they list coil springs with stock spring rates, standard or HD, but with additional lift in 1, 2, and 3" over stock!

http://www.eatonsprings.com/55-57chevy.html

4drsedan
08-10-2010, 11:47 PM
I just found this site and they list coil springs with stock spring rates, standard or HD, but with additional lift in 1, 2, and 3" over stock!

http://www.eatonsprings.com/55-57chevy.html

Actually it is for +1 and +2". They make rear leaf springs with up to +3" lift.

thehazmatguy
08-11-2010, 12:21 AM
Actually it is for +1 and +2". They make rear leaf springs with up to +3" lift.

Wow! Nice find! If my springs start to sag I'll give these a try.

icody
08-11-2010, 09:42 AM
I saw this site before but the spring height was not enough although I saw a pair of spring height adjusters (for lack of a better name) on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/55-56-57-Chevy-BELAIR-210-150-Front-3-Lift-Kit-GaSSeR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ370411198553QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
They go in the spring pad under the spring. I think they come in 2 inch height so that plus the +2 spring height would give a decent lift in the front. Wonder if the ride would be better or same. I actually think I might have to notch the frame as the upper a arm ball joint spacer hits the frame some. Will have to check that again as the alignment might have moved them out enough to clear! I did buy the +3 over stock rear leak springs (but from a guy on eBay not here.).

icody
08-11-2010, 09:29 PM
Couple of Up Dates:
Just got the New Rear Shock mount delivered. I have the one Piece Frame (No weld Seam down the Middle) so I ordered one for that frame. Looks to be a petty install. They Supply he Mount and the Bolts to bolt it to he frme. Its a pretty stout piece. Might even weld it after I bolt it in place to make it even stronger.
I also found out my Spring Shackles flipped and the leaf springs were riding directly on the body.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7389/dsc00034o.jpg
As soon as I add the New Shock Mount (Taking the Gas Shock from the Body to the Frame) and flip over the Shackles (so the leaf springs are not riding on the body) I should have a much smoother ride in the rear with every thing of the body! Will keep ya updated...should get to his sometime Friday afternoon (HOPEFULLY!!).

icody
08-14-2010, 12:01 AM
Another update!!!
Well I had the time this evening and used a large Crow Bar and after I undid the Shocks fom the Body I pryed and pryed and I got each Leaf Shackle to be about Verticle to the ground. They do not bend all the way back. However I put back in the Gas Shocks and took it for a drive. Man what a diference in ride quality!!! The rear now takes a bump instead of jarring against the body. I did notice that I lost some height in the rear (I wanted mine to be a little taller than most as I am doing a Gasser). So I took out the Gas shocks and re-installed a new set of Gabril HiJackers I had. Pumped about 50 Lbs of air into them. I then went to a cruise night (Casterville, TX) which is about a 60 mile round trip for me. The Suspension felt great. Not a harsh ride like I was getting..Pretty Smooth ride actually!! I very happy with the new High Riding Suspension and the Overall Ride Quality!!!!
Tomorrow I will probably get time to do the Rear Shock mount to get the upper rear shocks off the body and onto the Frame. I also got a sweet overflow catch can that I will install too. BTW the Car ran a cool 180 all the way in 101 degree heat! Love that New Radiator!!

thehazmatguy
08-14-2010, 08:59 PM
Don't forget to post a picture or two after you put in the rear shock bar! :)

icody
08-14-2010, 09:50 PM
Will do..I am painting it tomorrow as it comes delivered in Primer Red!

BTW hazmatguy...I grew up in Tucson AZ (where I spent most of my life). My Dad and Step Mom still live in Mesa (actually they spend the Summers in Pinetop AZ). I try and visit them about every November when they are back in Mesa which just so hapens to be the Goodguys show in Scottsdale..LOL

thehazmatguy
08-15-2010, 03:24 PM
Will do..I am painting it tomorrow as it comes delivered in Primer Red!

BTW hazmatguy...I grew up in Tucson AZ (where I spent most of my life). My Dad and Step Mom still live in Mesa (actually they spend the Summers in Pinetop AZ). I try and visit them about every November when they are back in Mesa which just so hapens to be the Goodguys show in Scottsdale..LOL

Awesome- Maybe I'll see you at the Goodguys in Scottsdale. I took my car last year, I expect my dad and I will both bring our 55's this year too.

icody
08-15-2010, 06:52 PM
I spent the day removing the front bumper on my 57...Now its beginning to look BadA$$..lol

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2812/dsc0008ko.jpg

next is the flat white painted fenderwell headers.

rustycarr
08-15-2010, 07:43 PM
now shes looking mean..:cool:

MikeB
08-15-2010, 08:53 PM
Just curious here. Did you relocate any of the steering linkage or just adjust the tie rods outwards? I'm wondering if there are any steering geometry issues.

The car looks really great.:tu A real standout from a sea of lowered Tri-5s.

icody
08-15-2010, 09:16 PM
Just curious here. Did you relocate any of the steering linkage or just adjust the tie rods outwards? I'm wondering if there are any steering geometry issues.

The car looks really great.:tu A real standout from a sea of lowered Tri-5s.

None that I know of...I Put in new inner and Outer Tie-rods and I used the Original Tie-rod Adjustments sleeves to match up so I could get it as near to stock as possible. I then took it to an alignment shop and I only have about 2 or 3 alignment spacers per side. She tracks down the road perfectly straight, nd she rides really really nice....I mean its not an Air Ride system type ride but not like a buggy as I expected. I needed to work some bugs out but I am extremely happy with the ride now. Something I can easily live with and not even a bad ride for those longer trips.
Thanks for the compliments!

laddyboy
08-15-2010, 10:06 PM
:congrats:
Looks great with the bumper off.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2812/dsc0008ko.jpg


http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/4306/stickers22610b.jpg

Wow. What a difference. That 57' is sure lookin tuff.
______________
Mike

classic gary
08-16-2010, 12:39 AM
what are you going to do with the chevy ralley wheels ? I need 2 if yours are 15 x 7 and for sale..............

rail9222
08-16-2010, 01:21 AM
Looks nice!!!

MT94SS
08-16-2010, 05:05 PM
OOOOOOOOOOOHHHH YEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!!

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2812/dsc0008ko.jpg

Your car is beautiful!!! You must have a grin the whole time you are driving it around. SWEET!!! Can't wait to see the other new parts installed...

Later,

Mike

icody
09-04-2010, 07:23 PM
More updates:

Just got some more Parts in!! Ordered the Repop Gast Tank from Ecklers along with the the 3/8 line sening unit, 3/8 stel line that runs outside the frame, 3/8 rubber hose from steel line to Fuel Pump. New O ring seal and sender seal, plus new screws. Will have a complete new fuel system. Went with the 3/8 stuff as I plan on installing the tunnel ram with two fours. I am off to a work related trip so will not be able to install the stuff till I get back in Mid Sept. Ugh!!! Parts Parts Parts...I love it!

MikeC55
09-05-2010, 10:35 PM
when are you putting the fuelers on?

rj57
09-06-2010, 12:23 AM
Another update!!!
Well I had the time this evening and used a large Crow Bar and after I undid the Shocks fom the Body I pryed and pryed and I got each Leaf Shackle to be about Verticle to the ground. They do not bend all the way back.

Raise the car so the weight is off the leaf spring. Loosen the nuts on the rear shackles. Take a pry bar, slip it inside the shackle and pull the shackle back down. To where it is "Suppose" to ride.

Slowly lower the car. You may need to hold the pry bar inside the shackle while the car so lowered back down with the weight back on the leaf spring.

Now with the car at ride height, and the weight back on the leaf spring, torque the nuts on the shackle as they should be.

The car will now ride as intended and the shackles will stay put.

jlow1979
04-18-2011, 08:22 PM
looks awsome ..keep it up..

David396
04-19-2011, 12:14 AM
Took the 57 out for a Mid Day Shakedown in the heat of the day! It ran 180 with the new Radiator. I did get caught is some pretty bad stop and go (Traffic and lights led to the jam), but it only creeped up to about 200 and then it quickly came back down to 180 as I started to move. I might add a pusher Fan to the front just in case I ever get caught in that type of trafic again. All in all I am very impressed with the New Radiator (and it was only 284 Dollars Delivered!!!).Here is another shot of the 57:
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6061/dsc0001kq.jpg

Gonna take of the Front Bumper Later this week..Will Post some pictures when I do!

Where did you get the radiator? Car looks great

15055chevy
04-19-2011, 08:01 AM
Hey Cody.....I haven't spoke to you in awhile, I see your doing some fantastic looking work on your 57. When I return from Iraq AGAIN, we need to meet up somewhere and shoot the crap. Where are some of the places to hang out at in or around San Antonio?

rj57
04-19-2011, 12:24 PM
....... I might add a pusher Fan to the front just in case I ever get caught in that type of trafic again. All in all I am very impressed with the New Radiator (and it was only 284 Dollars Delivered!!!).Here is another shot of the 57:

I'd like to know as well? I am in need of a radiator.

icody
05-05-2011, 12:19 PM
I got the Radiator off a site on Ebay..

56chevyguy
05-05-2011, 12:22 PM
Looks Sweet, love the gasser look :tu

icody
05-17-2011, 09:47 PM
Here is a shot of the Chevy Ralley Wheels painted a Gray co;or with some new shiney lug nuts with the new Hurst Pie Cut Slicks! I think they look awesome. Took a long drive with them today and they did OK...Course I live in San Antonio TX and its dry and Hot. I will not be driving with them on a wet road if I can help it!! Will post more pics as soon as the New Rear Mags (Injector Rims from Rocket come in! Should math well with the front Launchers!

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8426/dsc0015zf.jpg

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/7731/dsc0018ye.jpg

jlow1979
05-17-2011, 09:50 PM
looks good can we get a close up of the painted rear ralley wheels

MT94SS
05-18-2011, 12:59 AM
Looks like you just pulled them out of the trunk for some serious action! :D

The rallys sure look better. The nuts make it.

Nice transformation.

From this:
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/2045/dsc0006o.jpg

To this:
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/7731/dsc0018ye.jpg

Good work, man!

icody
05-21-2011, 10:20 PM
Began the Install of the complete new fuel system today. My Gas gauge has never worked and the Gauge itself tested fine o I know it was the Fuel level sender in the tank that was ba. So decided since is over a 50 Year old tank and new ones were available I decided to replace the entire fuel system. Here is a list of new parts that I will be swapping out the old with:
1. New Stock 57 fuel tank
2. New Lower fuel Inlet Tube (Mine was bent)
3. New Rubber Hose to attach fuel inlet tubes
4. New Long rubber vent hose
5. New Sending unit with a 3/8 outlet (going to the bigger fuel line)
6. New Pre-bent hard 3/8 fuel line
7. New Hard line to Fuel pump Hose (again 3/8)
8. New Holley Chrome Fuel Pump that takes 3/8 hose
9. New braided 3/8 ful line and filter from Pump to Holley Carb

So I started on the install this afternoon. I drained the Fuel Tank and as amazed how clean the fuel was. I removed the tank and the old 5/16 Fuel line. I installed the new Fuel sender in the tank and the new vent hose on the Tank as well. I then installed the new lower fuel tube rubber O-Ring and installed the tube into the gas tank..I used some Petroleum Jelly on the O-ring and it installed fairly easy. I then added the new Fuel Tank straps and left them loose for now. I installed a new Lower Fuel tube support and left that loose for now as well. I cut the vent tube to size and clamped it in place as well as the tube to tube rubber hose. That's all I got finished today. Will add some pictures tomorrow.
Tomorrow I will add the new 3/8 hard gas line and the new Holly Mechanical fuel pump. Then I will cut the braided fuel line and install all the Summit braided fittings and the new Fuel Filter and fuel inlet to the dual feed carb. Then I can add the gas and see if I have any leaks! Trying to get it leak free by Memorial Weekend for the Big Chevy Show in Dallas Texas. I went with the 3/8 lines as I plan in the future to run a tunnel ram so might as well run the bigger line now. I keep you all posted and the results!

MT94SS
05-22-2011, 10:09 PM
I hope you have a comfy creeper. That sounds like a lotta time looking up at the underside of your ride. Hope it goes well.

icody
05-23-2011, 09:19 AM
Well the New Tank is in, the New Vent Tube and Filler Hose are also in. Took out the old 5/16 fuel line, olf fuel pump and rubber line to Carb. Started to install the new fuel pump but of course the fuel pump rod kept slipping down. I packed in some Petrollumn Jelly to hold it but I live in San Antonio TX and the Jelly was melting and allowing the rod to sliide back down faster than I could get the fuel pump in. So then remembered the short bolt in the front of the block (I have front engine mounts and that is one of the bolts holding the front mount in place). So I removed the short bolt, added a longer bolt and pushed the fuel pump rod into the block and held it in place with the longer bolt. As I started to tighted the fuel pump in I noticed that the bolts were too short as the flange on the new fuel pump was thicker than the old fuel pump. So had to quit ofr the night and today I will buy some longer bolts and install the new fuel pump. Then I need to build the new braided hose line from the Fuel pump to the Carb (I already installed the new dual feed braided line to the carb. Then I can install the new 3/8 hard fuel line from the Tank to the Fuel Pump. Hopefully there will be no leaks but I am expecting a few..just hope its in areas I can easily fix. Will post pics tomorrow!

2Loose
05-23-2011, 05:44 PM
Fun project, have enjoyed following along, car is coming together very nicely! I'm going to check out those front wheels myself, see if I can get them in my bolt pattern.
Aloha,
Willy

ps, sometimes when running a fairly stiff spring in front, you can go to a softer shock to take some of the stiffness out of the ride. I've tried that in the past with some success. Another thought is to pull the coil springs and go to coil-overs, pretty good selection of spring rates and lengths, and the shocks are adjustable to fine tune the ride. I helped a buddy do that on his car and it worked out pretty well.

chevender
05-23-2011, 07:42 PM
Hey, An old trick for the fuel pump push rod is to hold it with a hack saw blade while you stick the pump back in. I know it's late now but for the future.
Rick

icody
05-23-2011, 09:44 PM
Tonight I traded the longer bolts for the two shorter bolts for the ful pump. I also fabbed up the Braided line that runs from the fuel pump to the Carb..I needed to buy a right angle adapter for the input line from the Tank to the pump as the rubber factory hose was bending against the frame and cutting off the flow..the right angle piece took care of the issue. Tomorrow I will install the Stock 3/8 hard line from the tank to the fuel pump and the Fuel system will be complete. So here are some pictures as promised:

New Braided dual feed carb line (Ignore the Engine and surrounding Engine Bay...This engine is on borrowed time..When I get back from the Chevy Show in Dallas a new Stroker Motor 383 with 485 HP (Give or take 15 HP..hehehehe) small block with Tunnel Ram and 2 450 Holleys, Fenderwell Headers and a detailed engine bay (taking off the inner fenderwells or at least trimming them around the Fenderwell Headers)will be the next project. I wanted to be sure I had a nice fuel system to feed hose dual carbs when I switch over engines). Not going to have time to switch the Original Generator for the New Alternator before the Big Show either!
http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg30/scaled.php?tn=0&server=30&filename=fueltank004.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640

New Fuel pump, Braided line and right angle adapter (Brass Piece)
http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg812/scaled.php?tn=0&server=812&filename=fueltank006.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640

New Fuel Tank Installed
http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg405/scaled.php?tn=0&server=405&filename=fueltank008.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640

New Inlet Tube, Rubber hose and Vent Hose
http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg707/scaled.php?tn=0&server=707&filename=fueltank009.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640

icody
05-23-2011, 10:29 PM
I have enjoyed your post as well...you have given me more than a few good ideas that am planning to use...LOL! As far as the front end...It is only temporary as I am going to also go with a straight front axle from Speedway (Not going to be pulling any wheelies so they are plenty strong for my use!). Just wanted to drive it, so went the quick and easy route for now!

What bolt pattern are you looking for again?
Dave

Fun project, have enjoyed following along, car is coming together very nicely! I'm going to check out those front wheels myself, see if I can get them in my bolt pattern.
Aloha,
Willy

ps, sometimes when running a fairly stiff spring in front, you can go to a softer shock to take some of the stiffness out of the ride. I've tried that in the past with some success. Another thought is to pull the coil springs and go to coil-overs, pretty good selection of spring rates and lengths, and the shocks are adjustable to fine tune the ride. I helped a buddy do that on his car and it worked out pretty well.

rj57
05-24-2011, 12:59 PM
What's wrong with the way you did the front end lift?

Mind if I ask. Is that a Holley fuel pump?
First I am NOT saying all Holley punps are bad. Just the one I bought, a chromed one, that I installed on my 150 Wagon. The entire top piece of the housing cracked and disappeared on me. My 350 is not a killer small block pushing out 500 or 600 HP. So why this pump broke like this on me, I can't say? And a couple calls to Holley asking for help got me no where. I had to buy another (NOT Holley) fuel pump and install it. Everyone always told me hos good Holley's customer service was. Well with me they told me "Good luck."

The Holley pump still worked. Just with the top of it missing, nothing was there to keep the oil in the engine. And believe me, it made a mess. I was at a car show when I discovered this. I walked to a hardware store and bought a rubber plug I shoved in the now open top of the fuel pump.

mikes55chevy
05-24-2011, 02:10 PM
your '57 looks great, to lift the reaer of my '55 i moved the leaf springs directly under the frame. the springs have a main leaf cut and added to the stack to maintain the arch. i to put in a shock mount on the frame (it doesn't take long to bust out a trunk floor) i used patriot fenderwell headers on my big block, the price is right, and they are really well built. my '55 has the ball joint type lift in the front that i did when i was in high school, i'm59 and i have never had any problems with it. it rides and sounds like a race car, it is not real comfortable, and i wouldn't have it anyother way.

David396
05-24-2011, 07:55 PM
Car looks great!!! Two questions though. 1: What size tires are you using on the front rims. How wide are the front rims? thanxs david

icody
05-24-2011, 10:50 PM
rj57 - nothing wrong with the way I lifted the front-end. Its safe and done right ..I just like the look of a straight front axle is all. Yes it is a Holley Fuel Pump...Have never had any problems with hem myself..Hope my good relationship with Holley continues..Sorry for your bad luck with them.

Mikes55chevy - I raised my 57 in the rear by Using a 5 leaf spring pack that is radised 3 inches over stock and then some Hijacker Air Shocks. It rides pretty darn good. I am currently using the trunk mounted shock set up, however, I do have the Frame mounted Shock bar but my current exhaust is in the way. As soon as I install the new Fender well Header I plan on installing the rear frame mounted shock mount. I agree that I don't want to ruin my nice trunk by having the shocks pop through the trunk!!

David396 - the Rims are 4 inches wide (2 inch back spacing) and the tired are 165R15's, 25.8 diameter

rj57
05-25-2011, 12:40 AM
rj57 - nothing wrong with the way I lifted the front-end. Its safe and done right ..I just like the look of a straight front axle is all. Yes it is a Holley Fuel Pump...Have never had any problems with hem myself..Hope my good relationship with Holley continues..Sorry for your bad luck with them.

Hey it's your car. Build it how YOU want.

There's nothing wrong with a straight axil. I was just asking about the way you lifted the front since you posted you planned on switching to a straight axil.

I don't have ball joint spacers under my car. But I did install springs that lifted the front a few inches over stock. Cause that's the look I wanted to the car to have.

mac-55
05-25-2011, 07:30 AM
Cody that car looks killer! you should be proud of her

icody
05-26-2011, 09:52 PM
Thanks Mac-55.

I got it all put back together and of course the only Gas leak I have is at the sending Unit!!! Looks like I will need to order that Cork Gasket and replace the sending unit! Can I o that on a 57 with the Gas Tank in Place? Hate to take it all back down again..that was a nasty pain in the butt job..lots of back time on the Garage Floor. Best part is I do have a working Gas Gauge!! Woooohoooo! Heading out in the AM for Dallas..Hope to see some of you there!

rj57
05-28-2011, 01:48 PM
Looks like I will need to order that Cork Gasket and replace the sending unit! Can I o that on a 57 with the Gas Tank in Place? Hate to take it all back down again..that was a nasty pain in the butt job..

YES! The sending unit can come out of the tank. with the tank still in place.

You will need to raise the back of the car enough to gain space between the rear housing and the front of gas tank.

1. Drain the tank so the gas level is below where the sending unit is mounted.
2. Remove the gas line from the sending unit.
3. unscrew the sending unit.
4. remove from the gas tank.

icody
06-04-2011, 12:20 AM
I've Been pretty busy on the 57 Gasser this week. Lots of updates in the works. I decided to remove the hard line from the Gas tank to the Fuel pump and replace it with Braided steel hose -6 AN. Bought the Inverted Flair AN fitting from Earls that fits the Gas tank output...ran that to a -6 AN Braided Hose, then to another AN fitting with a 1/4 NPT to the fuel Pump (I already ran the Braided line from the fuel pump to the carb). I started the removal of the Badly rusted Rear Bumper to replace it with the like new Used Bumper I got. I removed the old bumper fairly easy then ran into a snag removing the bumper mount bolts as the end ones were stripped so I just ground the head off (I didn't care if I messed up the old bumper as there are rust holes all over it!!). Now I have to wait till the POR-15 arrives that I bought from Eastwood so I can clean up and paint the old bumper mounts before I mount them to the new bumper and the Car. I bought a Bumper Mount Kit so I have all new bolts to install the bumper after I paint the old Mounts.
I also decided that I didn't like the very small front tires with the new taller rear Pie Cut Slicks. The Diameter of he rear tires is 28", the front were 23" (I think it looked a little odd. So I ordered a new set of tires for the 4 inch Rocket rims that are also 28 inches in Diameter. That will bring up the front end to match the rear end. I'll post a picture when I get them installed later this week. I also ordered the Cork Fuel Tank sender Gasket so will be installing that when it comes in as well/ Started the new Gold Belair Grill install with the install kit I bought, and started to clan up the 2 1/2 gal Moon Tank too! I also am getting ready to pull the front end of the 57 getting ready to detail the engine bay when I pull the engine to install the new Thumper engine when it comes in about 2 weeks. can't wait to hear it run and install it in my detailed engine bay. Going to remove the heater and block of the hole then going to paint the firewall the original Gold color and he rest of the frame will be painted a semi-gloss black and a gloss black POR-15 on the frame. Also have the fiberglass fan shroud to install when I install the new engine. Things are moving here at a fast pace

icody
06-08-2011, 11:09 PM
Tonight I got the new Front MT Tires installed and mounted up. They are 28 inch diameter the same as the rear Pie cut slicks. I love the new look with the same diameter tires front and rear. I also finished up on the rear bumper install. The original side bumper mounts had to be torched off the old rusted bumper as the side bolts were rusted and stripped. So a friend torched them off for me. I painted the mounts and installed them tonight as well. Looks fantastic. I'll bring the 57 out in the daylight tomorrow and post new pic's.
I also got in the Cork Gasket in the mail today so I can get the gas tank sender leak fixed this weekend. I also won a nice speedometer for the 57 on ebay that arrived today as well. The one I have currently is for an automatic and the needle is also missing! Soooooooo..the new one from Ebay is for a stick car (No P,N,R,D,L) and the needle is there as well.
Hopefully I will get the new Sending Unit Screws in before this weekend (I bought original Clutch head screws with the correct copper washers.
The Gasser is taking shape. Have also been polishing the Used aluminum 2 1/2 Gallon EELCO Fuel tank to place on the front of the 57. Its a used original so it has lots of chips and such by they give it that Original Character Look and Feel!!

icody
06-10-2011, 11:43 PM
Here is the 57 with the new taller front tires..I used to have 165R-15 but switched them out for 28x7.50-15 MT Sportsman. I also have the new Used Rear Bumper installed.
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/4827/tallfronttres001.jpg
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/2953/tallfronttres004.jpg
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7462/tallfronttres005.jpg

jlow1979
06-11-2011, 10:56 PM
looks awsome keep it up.

OLDOCTANE
06-12-2011, 12:00 AM
NICE JOB! ONE SWEET CAR.A+

rj57
06-12-2011, 01:04 AM
The new tires look great.

:happy0030:

icody
06-12-2011, 01:12 PM
Thanks for the compliments everyone...Its this site and the people on it that help to keep me motivated! I'll drop a few more pictures once I install the Alternator (Bout time I replace the Generator). I bought a Drivers side billet Alternator Mount from Summit. It was a great deal as the March Mounts are about 160 while the Summit Billet mount was only 77. I bought the Alternator Conversion kit from Ecklers which included the Wiring, Fan Belt, Alternator, and Mount , but I really don't like how the mount sits the Alternator so high up on the engine..so bought the Summit Mount. I'll do some install photos as well! I also have the Old Gasser EELCO tank polished..it looks pretty darn good..its a little pitted but that's just Track wear and I think it will go with the Old Gasser Look I am after.

New Grill Installed!
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/887/frontgrilltank001.jpg

New (Used) EELCO Fuel Tank and mount. I'll either have the mount Powder Coated or Chromed:
http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/6193/frontgrilltank002.jpg

Fuel Pressure Gauge Installed:
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2296/frontgrilltank004.jpg

icody
06-23-2011, 11:16 PM
Well I did not like the Current Re-Radiased Leaf springs I have so have purchased some stock radiased 5 pack leaf springs to replace them with. I got the new springs in today and am waiting on delivery of some Cal-Trac's that I bought and then will swap out the old springs with the new and add the cal-trac's at the same time. I have to modify the Moon Tank mounts slightly and then will have the mount Powder Coated the will install the Moon Tank as well. Next will be the Generator swap to the new Alternator. I also have to install the Rear Shack mount that will move the rear shock mount from the Trunk to the Frame. Will add some pic's once I begin the installs!

icody
06-30-2011, 06:50 PM
Since the Cal-Tracs did not come in yesterday I spent the day taking off the original Generator and all the associated wiring. The kit I got from Ecklers was really nice and went in nicely. The only thing I do not like about it is the Alternator mount..it mounts it way high on the front of the engine. I bought a nice Billet mount from Summit Racing but I can't use it until I take off the original Exhaust manifolds as the Drivers side has a cast in Generator mount that hits the Billet Alternator mount. So as soon as I put in the headers I'll also switch to the nicer and lower Billet Mount. I also might just go ahead and cut the mount off the Original Exhaust manifolds as I was not sure if they were rare or not but I se they are for sale in Ecklers catalog for 89 bucks so I'll probably just cut off the mount and add the new Billet mount tomorrow. Here are a few Pictures.

The New Wiring really Clans up the Drivers side as you no longer need the Voltage regulator:
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/9625/newshow020.jpg

The Ecklers Alternator Mount is way to forward and high mounted for my tastes.
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/1018/newshow019.jpg

Oh yeah the New Alternator is a 70 AMP one...should power a decent stereo and possibly an AC unit and Aux Fan very nicely!
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/669/newshow024.jpg

57_2D_150
06-30-2011, 07:31 PM
These tires look awesome. :cool: Great choice.:tu




http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7462/tallfronttres005.jpg

rj57
06-30-2011, 09:51 PM
Nice as usual. :happy0030:

A word of caution:
Watch that wiring running close to the exhaust manifold. Heat + plastic wires do not mix. (I melted starter wires on a set of new headers once :()

I think I'd add a length of wire to the exisiting wires and run the wiring on top of the intake and back to the firewall.

icody
06-30-2011, 10:13 PM
Thanks 57 - I like the look and they really dont handle that bad...course I would never take them in any wet weather at all!!! Now the MT Sportsman 28 inch font tires really suck as far as handling. They look to ride in any rut in the road. Wish someone made a skinny tall radial tire!

Got some great news this evening..The Cal-Trac bars came in and they look awesome. I went to a friends house and I pressed out the rubber bushings and the pressed in the aluminum bushings. I put the front all together getting ready to pull the old leafs and install the new leafs and Cal-Trac's tomorrow. I'll add some more pic's when I get it done. Can't wait to put them on and try them out..lol

icody
06-30-2011, 10:17 PM
rj57 - It looks like the wire is on the manifold but actually its sitting way off it and off the valve cover as well. As soon as I cut the Generator Mount off the Exhaust Manifold I'll install the Billet Alternator Mount and the wires will be away and sitting much nicer than they are now. Guess I'll need a new Fan Belt too (It never stops does it..LOL).

rj57
07-01-2011, 01:01 PM
You're right, it never does. :)

I am on vacation this week. (well I was today was my last day)
I wanted to work on my first car while I off. My pink/white Hardtop had a radiator problem in may, so it's been off the road. I pulled the radiator and found out I needed a water pump. New pump, might as well install a new timing cover seal. Since the balancer is off, might as wekll paint it and anything I can now get to. Might as well re-clean and paint the engine cradle. Installed new front motor mounts with new donuts. So I might as well install the painted lower radiator baffles I painted a couple years ago. And so on.
:rolleyes:

PS. I did get both leaf springs, the rear, and test fitted a rear wheel with new tires installed on my first car.

icody
07-01-2011, 04:00 PM
rj57 - Progress no matter how little is a step forward!!!

As for me...today I installed the New Leaf Springs, Shackles (I turned them the right way around this time!!!), and Cal-Trac's!! Was not a hard a job as I had expected..all went apart easy and installed smoothly! The Leaf Springs are now riding the right way as Chevy intended them to ride!!! Wooohooo No More Shackles riding up against the trunk pan!!! I could never get them to flip down...so now they ride perfect!!

New Cal-Trac's and Leafs from inside car:
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3598/caltracs001.jpg

New Cal-Trac's and Leafs from outside the car....(I used Grade 8 Bolts for the front Spring eye as well):
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1165/caltracs004.jpg

rj57
07-02-2011, 01:06 AM
Nice. :happy0030:



....(I used Grade 8 Bolts for the front Spring eye as well):

GOOD! I do as well.

icody
07-02-2011, 08:06 PM
Had a few people that asked what dos the stance look like since I have added the New Rear Leaf Springs and the Cal-Trac's. Here are some update pictures of the car now. The stance as you can see is the same (Thanks you Air Shocks..LOL). But to be honest the ride quality is way improved now that the leafs are allowed to work correctly and not trapped up against the Trunk Pan!

New Stance:
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1575/newstance025.jpg

Notice the Cal Trac Bars:
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8930/newstance027.jpg

Side View(You can really see the Cal Trac's...Looks old Skool:
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4839/newstance031.jpg

Still running the 28 inch all rear Hurst Pie Cut Slicks...The Front are now also 28 inch MT Sportsman:
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/5122/newstance033.jpg

On the front I am running a Toe out but steers straight running down the road has a mean look coming up behind ya!!:
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1716/newstance037.jpg

jlow1979
07-03-2011, 01:47 AM
looks awsome

icody
07-03-2011, 02:42 AM
Thanks Jlow1979. Next up is the Front Dual Master Cylinder install and front Disc Brakes along with new hoses and brake lines. Also going to install new rear Wheel cylinders and Brake Shoes, and also new drum brake hardware with the self adjusting kit. That will complete the running gear/suspension Phase.

jlow1979
07-04-2011, 12:15 AM
nice what disc brake set up you going with ....oh and when you do the tear down and install do a small tech from start to finish with lots o pics ...

icody
07-04-2011, 01:56 AM
I went with the Kit from an EBay Store Called MattsClassicBowTies. The kit was a lot cheaper than anyone else. Only $399 (I say only but thats still a lot for me..LOL). I am going with a Manual Dual Master Cylinder setup (not Power). The only thing not included in the kit was the lines, but I contacted Matts Directly and they also sell a complete prebent line kit to fit their Install kit for $125 more. Not bad I think so I got that as well. I'll make sure I do a photo shoot of the install as well!

henrys57wagon
07-04-2011, 11:36 AM
Would you please show the finished upper/ lower/ spring setup as installed. Having used spacers on our drag cars it did not raise the front end until acceleration, so I would imagine it is the springs raise the front end, good day.

icody
07-04-2011, 01:06 PM
You are correct the balljoint spacer does not raise the front at all. Its all in the spring height, however, you need the ball joint spacer to allow enough room between the ball joints for the longer (taller) spings to be installed. Will adds some pictures later today.

auggie56
07-04-2011, 01:17 PM
Your car looks great Cody, but your front tires aren't going to last long, with your camber off like that.

rj57
07-04-2011, 01:52 PM
So you're going with a disk brake set up on the front with a non-power duel line master cylinder?

I ask cause I like the looks of this set up versus the power booster sticking the master cylinder 4 feet out in to the engine bay. (okay, maybe only 2 feet?)

I did see a car at the free show on saturday with a manual duel line master cylinder and what looked like disk brakes on the front. I liked it. :happy0030:

icody
07-04-2011, 05:32 PM
Yeah...I am not a fan of the Power Brake setup in a 57 as I also think it pokes out to far. But I like the saftey of having better brakes thats why I went with the Disc's up front and the Dual Master Cylinder s well!

icody
07-05-2011, 06:08 PM
Had some time today and finished cutting off some of the stock Generator Mount on the Drivers side Stock Exhaust manifold. Had to trim some of the Generator mount so I could install the new Chrome Aluminum Alternator mount, replacing the very tall mount that I got as part of the install kit from Ecklers. I really like the look of the new mount much better!

Old Mount:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/669/newshow024.jpg

New Mount:
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/8302/newmount001.jpg

plasticman
07-07-2011, 01:23 AM
Wondering why you just didn't put the Leafs on top of the axle to Lift the
rear? You would get about 4 -5 inches using the stock springs without
having a bad ride. We did it back in the day. Looks Good!




rj57 - Progress no matter how little is a step forward!!!

As for me...today I installed the New Leaf Springs, Shackles (I turned them the right way around this time!!!), and Cal-Trac's!! Was not a hard a job as I had expected..all went apart easy and installed smoothly! The Leaf Springs are now riding the right way as Chevy intended them to ride!!! Wooohooo No More Shackles riding up against the trunk pan!!! I could never get them to flip down...so now they ride perfect!!

New Cal-Trac's and Leafs from inside car:
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3598/caltracs001.jpg

New Cal-Trac's and Leafs from outside the car....(I used Grade 8 Bolts for the front Spring eye as well):
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1165/caltracs004.jpg

MT94SS
07-07-2011, 01:33 AM
Wondering why you just didn't put the Leafs on top of the axle to Lift the
rear? You would get about 4 -5 inches using the stock springs without
having a bad ride. We did it back in the day. Looks Good!

Then he couldn't use Cal-Traks or slapper bars, he'd have to run ladder bars.

Cody, the bracket looks cool. Is the arm on the alternator that the heim connects to held on with just one bolt? Shiny! What color are you going with on the engine or are you building a different engine?

2Loose
07-07-2011, 02:38 AM
Sure you could, run cal traks or slappers, I would, just need to reconfigure the geometry at the axle, some small mods, but no reason it wouldn't work just fine....
Ladders with leafs would need mods too, like a slider setup or a pivoting link between the axle and the leafs, have seen both in the past and both worked...

icody
07-07-2011, 10:51 AM
Then he couldn't use Cal-Traks or slapper bars, he'd have to run ladder bars.

Cody, the bracket looks cool. Is the arm on the alternator that the heim connects to held on with just one bolt? Shiny! What color are you going with on the engine or are you building a different engine?

MT: The Bracket consists of 5 bolts total
a. 2 Bolts - that go from the Alt mount to the to holes in the head, 1 of the bolts also goes to the Helm joint.
b. 1 bolt goes to hold the wide mount of the Alternator.
c. 1 bolt goes to the otherside of the helm joint
d. 1 bolt goes to the arm that attaches to the top of the alternator for fan belt adjustment.

Yes I could have run the Springs over the top of the axles except Then I'd of had to come up with different mounts and such for the Cal-Trac's. Was easier to run Air Shocks..:tu

The Engine will be Good old Chevy Orange..and yes I am building a new one. It is also a Chevy 350 4 bolt mains, with a nice Comp Cams Thumper series, a Loud Timing gear set and a set of Hooker Fender well Headers. Also have a nice Edelbrock Tunnel Ram with two 450 Holleys and a nice Aluminum Scoop. Looks like I will have to cut a hole in my hood but the scoop is part of the look! I need to cut my inner fenders to work with the Hookers. Since it will be a street car I want to keep as much of the inner fenders as possible to aid in keeping the engine cleaner. Have some old skool Cal Custom ribber valve covers too.
So right now I'll get to work on the Front Disc Brake install and then I'll start on the engine!

icody
07-11-2011, 11:05 PM
Tonight I took the Plunge!!!
I ordered a set of Painted Hooker Fender Well Headers from Summit Racing. I bought the painted as I plan on sanding of the black and repainting them VHT High Temp White (for that old Skool Look. I also ordered the Taylor Wire Battery relocation kit to move the Battery from the Engine Bay to the Trunk (Have to move it since I need to cut the Inner Fenders for the Fender well headers. I also ordered a nice Air Powered cutting saw so I can make the cuts to fit the Fender well headers. Pretty excited to be geting them in soon so I can install them. Once they are installed I'll take the Gasser to my Local Midas Dealer to hook up a nice Flow Master to the Fender wells. Should be pretty nice to see the headers Painted white peaking out of the fender well!
Then the next item up is to pull the engine so I can detail the engine Bay and install the new (More HP .hehehehe..More Power Har Har Har), Engine!

jlow1979
07-11-2011, 11:39 PM
better get a video up of them fenderwell headers and flowmasters with the car running so we can hear that beast .

icody
07-12-2011, 09:16 AM
better get a video up of them fenderwell headers and flowmasters with the car running so we can hear that beast .

Actually has anyone ever used these (Car Chemistry Header Mufflers)...I think I will like the look these provide. Sort of a Down turn without the muffler look. Decided I will probably run these vice Flowmasters!
http://www.carchemistry.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=171

MT94SS
07-12-2011, 09:38 AM
That will be LOUD! :happy0030: Those look like little chambered mufflers.

icody
07-12-2011, 07:32 PM
That will be LOUD! :happy0030: Those look like little chambered mufflers.

Loud!!! Yeah baby!!!!:happy0030: :sign0020:

frogman21758
07-12-2011, 08:03 PM
And I thought my Flowmasters series 10 were small....those will be loud:tu

icody
07-12-2011, 11:03 PM
Went to their web site and you can modify them for strictly strip or street/strip! I have seen their inserts in zoomies and they are not as loud as you might think. Will let you know when I get that far along. I just like the idea of running the Fender wells and exiting to these turnouts/mufflers, instead of having to run them into a set of regular mufflers. Think it will really help with the over all Gasser look I am after!

nitrouspro
07-13-2011, 09:27 PM
Something to think about. Those stubbies will look pretty cool, till you have the interior of the car filled up with fumes 90% of the time, especially at stop lights etc. On the other hand, you'll always know if you're running fat or lean! HA:happy0030::happy0030::happy0030:

icody
07-13-2011, 09:43 PM
LOL I hadn't thought about that...Hopefully I can turn them out so that they will flow into the air stream running along the side of the car and not into the cab. But hey...I'll sacrifice that for coolness...LOL

icody
07-15-2011, 11:50 AM
My favorite UPS man showed up today withy my New HOOKER Header Fenderwell Headers (HOK-2102). I bought them in black so I can sand them down and paint them flat white..
Question: Should I prime them with etching primer first since they will be bare metal...but won't the etching primer just burn right off? So should I just paint them with 1500 degree VHT flat white without a primer coat?
I also got my new Taylor Wire NHRA legal Battery relocation kit to move the battery to the trunk. I also plan on taking out the Original 57 Heater blower and heater box and closing off the heater hoses at the manifold and water pump. That will clear out both the Drivers side and Passenger side inner fender panels. I can then use a plazma cutter to cut out the inner fenderwells for the header install. Guess I will cut some and trial fit and trim a little as I go so I can keep as much of the inner fender as possible (which will help keep the engine cleaner, since it will be a street driven car). Just waiting for the New Car Chemistry Fenderwell Header muffler turnouts before I start the install. I'll get the the battery relocation done this weekend and provide some pictures then.
Looks like the Disc Brake conversion is on hold as a few items are on back order, so will have to wait till I get all the parts for that. But I have lots to keep me busy in the meantime!

jlow1979
07-17-2011, 12:56 PM
cmon weres the pictures at .....use some white bbq rustolium from home depot it last very long ...and they have white

icody
07-17-2011, 07:52 PM
I am waiting for the Header Mufflers from Car Chemistry to get here. They should be here on Monday. Then I can take off the old Stock manifolds and cut the inner fenders for the Fenderwell Headers.

Went to a car show at the local Drag Strip today in San Antonio. Man was it Hot..about 102 with high humidity too boot! UGH!! Here is a shot at the show and when I got home:
Show:
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/211/carshow17july11009.jpg

Home:
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/7107/carshow17july11010a.jpg

rj57
07-18-2011, 12:38 PM
I was going to post. Unless you can find a primer from VHT, don't primer the new headers with regular primer. It will burn off and take the header paint with it.

icody
07-23-2011, 10:49 PM
I Started work on the New Trunk Mounted Battery Box. The location I picked was to the right side of the spare tire well. The only real issue is that there is a Strengthening bead that runs under right where the New Battery Box will be. So I had to cut the Ends of the bead and then cut the bead along the side. Use some dolly's and hammer to flatten the bead and then weld it back up so the floor is flat (i.e...no bead under the tray). Then grind down the welds and primer and paint before bolting down the Bottom of the new battery tray.
Here is a pic of the cut bead before welding it up:
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4757/trunkbatterymount008.jpg

Here is a pic of the battery tray sitting Flush with the bead all ground down and primered and painted:
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/2502/trunkbatterymount009a.jpg

Finally a shot of the new Battery Box. I still have to run the cables and bolt in the Optima Battery. Will add more pictures as I get that part completed. Need to move the battery so I can have more room in the engine bay for the Fender well Headers.
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/9092/trunkbatterymount010.jpg

Butch m
07-23-2011, 11:27 PM
wow thats lookin good can't wait to see it done

icody
07-25-2011, 09:37 PM
Well today I measured and cut the Positive Battery Cable (Need to solder on the end). I Ran the Neg Battery Cable and mounted it to the frame, running it through an O-ring in the Trunk. I also Primed and Painted the mounting area where the Battery Box will sit. I did it in black which really doesn't matter as you can't see under the box anyways.

http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/4214/newbattpad001.jpg

I still need to enlarge the Positive Battery cable hole in the trunk and add the rubber O-ring, Drill the Vent tube (and run that to outside the trunk), and after the black paint is dry I can then mount the Battery Box and install the Battery, and run the positive Battery Cable!. I already removed the Front Battery Tray and Cables. I also removed the Heater Fan and mount. I bought some rubber plugs to block off the heater water ports in the intake and the Water pump so will add those and then I can remove the Heater box itself! Then I will have open access to the inner fenders so I can cut them to add the New Hooker Fender Well Headers! Its getting there!

icody
07-26-2011, 09:02 PM
More work done on the Battery Relocation. Ran the cables through the trunk. Bolted down the battery Box floor and then added the battery box as well as the Battery and bolted that down. Attached the Positive battery cable to the battery. Cut off the hold down/lid threaded rods so that they are the correct length when the lid is secured.

Too hot to work more than an hour at the most outside,so that's about all for tonight! Tomorrow all that is left to do is to attach the positive cable to the starter and then secure the cable along the frame. Then attach the Negative Cable to the battery and Start it up!!!!!

A few more Progress pictures:
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6126/batteryprogress003.jpg

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4848/batteryprogress004.jpg

jlow1979
07-26-2011, 10:45 PM
looking really clean now you need a cut off switch mounted under or threw you bumper for easy access ..

icody
07-27-2011, 11:53 PM
Finished up the Battery Relocation tonight. I ran the Po Cable to the starter. On a 57 the lights and horn are all powered by a wire that runs to the battery. Since I moved the battery I extended the power cable to run down to the starter as well. That should take care of the lights and horn power. I then attached the Neg Cable to the battery and went to start it up...Turned the key and...."CLICK" that is all I got...CRAP! So I figured it was probably a bad ground. I took off the ground wire from the frame and ground a small area to give a better Neg ground and then reattached the Ground. Turned the key and...VAROOOM! she lives again..LOL! Since all works, I then used some metal and rubber clamps to hold the positive cable securely to the frame from the rear to the front. It is now all secure and looking good. Had to take the Passenger rear tire off so I could clamp the battery cable to the frame behind the rear tire.

Next is the rest of the heater removal (block off the heater lines) and then I can finally work on the fender well header install.

jlow1979
07-28-2011, 09:53 PM
sounds like a good day keep it up.. more pics

mrferrisjr
07-28-2011, 10:58 PM
I ran across this thread for the 1st time tonight. Really enjoyed it. Nice home build in progress. Have you considered doing away with the inner fenders? I had some fenderwell headers on a '57 years ago. Man! Would those fenders get hot after a little drive. I ran them just like you are considering. Black inner fender with white headers looked great, but the heat from the headers was almost unbearable....IMO.
Your car is looking good.:)

icody
07-30-2011, 12:34 AM
Was looking tonight and I think I am going to take the inner fenders all the way off as you suggested!

Shadetreeeng
08-01-2011, 06:14 PM
Your car is looking sharp. You have one of my favorite color combos and you've got the stance just right. They also look better without the front bumper.

If you haven't already you should consider running a nice heavy gauge wire between the frame and the engine block. If you don't have those little ground straps between the engine and the body you should do that too. A good ground everywhere is important for good overall electrical system function.

I would bet that your original battery location had the negative cable running straight to the engine somewhere, if not it should of. When cranking the engine there is a lot of juice needed, so unless you have solid steel motor mounts, you should consider the extra ground connections.

Gary

icody
08-01-2011, 08:01 PM
Gary,
The old ground cable ran from the battery to a stud/bolt on the water pump. I ran a New Ground wire from the original Water pump stud/bolt to the Frame. I also have Front motor mounts which bolt to the frame and the engine. Thank you for the compliments on my build, Its getting there. The paint looks much better in pictures! But the old paint also helps to give it that Old Gasser Look! LOL Can't wait to see it with the new Fender well headers. Hopefully I'll get to them sometime this week!

rj57
08-02-2011, 01:01 PM
One thing about removing the inner fenders. I'm told everything that's out there will not end up on your engine.

I too thought of removing the inner fenders on one of my '57s before. And the responses I got told me to expect the engine to get extra dirty.

icody
08-02-2011, 08:04 PM
I have a friend with a 55 with a tilt front end and it does not get any dirtier then mine does...course we do not drive them every day..they are just cruise cars!

Shadetreeeng
08-04-2011, 11:32 PM
I wasn't trying to be a know-it-all with my comments. I've learned about stuff like this the hard way.

My first tri-5 was someones 57 2dr hdtp ex race car I got in 1970 with no motor/trans for $350 when I was 18. No front bumper, ladder bars, 5:38 gears, balljoint spacers and killer front springs. Built my first engine for that car, .060 over 283. My friend and I went through a serious learning curve that summer, trying to get the engine done, in the car and running. We finally got it running at 1 AM, so excited, and I can still hear my father screaming out the back door, "turn that g@d d*&n f#$%&*g junk off and come in the house!" We had a lot of fun that summer with that car!

In 73 I bought a driver 57 Nomad also for $350 that was Sierra Gold and Adobe Beige like your car. I enjoyed it for a while before it died from rustout and mechanical problems. Trifives were really cheap and available back then.

I've been following your build and like what you're doing. Keep up the good work.

Gary

icody
08-06-2011, 03:55 PM
Hey I can use any comment you care to give.....The More comments I get the more I learn!! So No Worries!!
Last night I finally finished up on the Fuel System. I now have braided fuel line running from the tank to the carb! Looks good and safer that the mixture of Hard line and rubber I had before!
Going to work this week on taking out the inner fenders. Hopefully I can take them off without removing the fenders. I have everything out of the way and nothing on the inners so just a matter of removing some bolts and hopefully there is room to take them off. Guess I will find out!!!

icody
08-09-2011, 05:28 PM
Its 104 degrees here is San Antonio Texas today and I decided since I had the day off that I would take off the Fenders so I can take off the inner Fenders as well as the vent tubes. Went through 8 bottles of water and 4 Powerades..LOL. All went pretty well except for the two bolts that connect the Fender to the Grill Bar. Seems both side were rusted in place so I had to get out the cutoff wheel and the hack saw and chisel to remove them. Drilled and re-tapped the nuts so I can put in new bolts. I also have to fix the lower mount on the passenger side fender as it was rusted away. Will just weld in a new patch with a nut so I can bolt the lower back in place. The inners are in decent enough shape but I don't want or need them so if someone needs them let me know before I take them to the scrape heap! So tomorow I hope to cut off the old exhaust and remove the stock exhaust manifolds so I can install the Hooker Fender well Headers.
Here are a few pictures with the Fenders and Inner Fenders Removed.
The Drivers side:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/fendersremoved002.jpg?t=1312924585

The Passenger Side:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/fendersremoved001.jpg?t=1312925276

MT94SS
08-09-2011, 07:05 PM
That's dedication, my friend!!! It looks pretty clean under there. I thought that you were going to cut slots for the headers in you inner wells, no?

Hope the exhaust comes off easy enough.

icody
08-09-2011, 08:51 PM
Yeah I was going to cut them but found a guy who is going to help me develop a Tilt front end (Later in the year when things cool off an he has more time), so the inners would have to go anyways.
I was pleasently surprised to see how clean the Firewall was...I was also happy too see no RUST!!!

rj57
08-10-2011, 12:06 PM
The inners are in decent enough shape but I don't want or need them so if someone needs them let me know before I take them to the scrape heap!

I'd like to have them. Shipping to Ohio may be a killer?

icody
08-10-2011, 12:51 PM
Yeah I'm betting about 70 bucks to Ground UPS due to the size box needed!

icody
08-10-2011, 11:00 PM
Again it was over 100 degrees in San Antonio but I have no choice but to work in the heat. I was smart enough to at least wait until after 5 PM but was still in the 90's. Glad I moved West but it has been a very Hot summer so far!!! So I used a Sawzall to cut the Exhaust pipe just back of the Exhaust Manifolds. Then I unbolted the Stock Manifolds and out they came. It was a pretty easy job as the bolts came right out (I was worried that the bolts would be rusted and would be hard to remove but some good Soaking in PB Blaster the night before and they came out without a hitch). I did have one small hiccup...When I was cutting off the Drivers side exhaust the Sawzall slipped and oil came pouring out!!! I thought NO PLEASE NOT THE OIL PAN!!! But it was just the Qil Filter! I needed to change the oil anyways..LOL!! The I took each Hooker Fender well Header and started the two outside bolts...I cut the Header gasket so that they would slide over the outside bolts and the started each of the remaining Header bolts! Heck I didn't even have to remove the sparkplugs (At least on the Passenger side. The Drivers side I needed to remove the two forward Sparkplugs so I could slide the stock Exhaust Manifold between the stock steering box and the engine). After both Headers were installed and all tightened down I installed the two sparkplugs on the drivers side and plugged in the sparkplug wires. Once I get the fenders back on I will tighted up the wires so that they are not near the headers. On the Drivers side the Alternator wires will be up over the headers and held in place by the Fender and some wire holders. Right now they are just laying there!! All in All ,the Hookers fit fantastic!!! They went in easy and clear all the Factory Parts..(I have the Stock Front mounts and Stock Steering Box).
Passenger side:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/fenderwellsinstalled001.jpg?t=1313029088

Drivers Side:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/fenderwellsinstalled006.jpg?t=1313029060

jlow1979
08-11-2011, 12:03 AM
them look like they fit very good please post the model number and company ,,

icody
08-11-2011, 12:11 AM
Hooker Headers 2102-HKR from Summit Racing. $425.95
Yes there are probably cheaper ones out there, but I have always had great success with Hookers fit and finish!!

icody
08-11-2011, 10:37 PM
Got home late today so did not get much garage time. I had to stop on the way home and get some oil and a new Oil Filter (to change out the one I pierced with the Sawzall last night...LOL). So while the Oil was draining I took off the old oil filter and welded the end caps on the Car Chemistry Header turn-outs
http://www.carchemistry.com/shop/images/products/detail_232_Flanged_Turn_Down_Picture.jpg
Then I bolted them up to the ends of the Fender wells. I also finished using the Sawzall and cut out the rest of the old dual exhaust system. I also had a few bolts break off in the Grill Header Bar that attach to the fender, so I drilled out the old bolts and tapped them for new screws! That's about all I got done...well except I couldn't wait any longer and after adding the new Oil Filter and new Oil I started it up. Man does she sound mean....probably a bit too loud..but definitely MEAN!! I will probably take it down to the Local Muffler Shop and have a set of Flowmasters installed that run out to each side. The Neighbor heard it start up and he came over to see it and he thinks its just perfect as it sits (course he likes LOUD...and did I mention ITS LOUD!!) LOL

Hopefully tomorrow I can get the time to weld up a new Nut in the lower rear of the front Passenger side Fender and then I can bolt the Fenders back on!!! I have new Stainless button head screws to attach the front fenders on with and then replace every screw in the front-end with the new button heads. That should give it a cool look with the old paint and new hardware! I'll probably have to work the MSD Wires some to make sure they clear and not lay against the new headers. Tonight the UPS man showed up and delivered the New Door Handles (To replace my pitted ones), New Gold Gills (to replace the two missing ones on the sides of the front fenders), and a new front Emblem and Mount kit (to replace the extremely faded one)! Will take some finishd pictures once I get the fenders back on!

jlow1979
08-12-2011, 11:08 PM
nice job

mrferrisjr
08-12-2011, 11:34 PM
You're getting close! :)

icody
08-12-2011, 11:38 PM
The Fenders are all back on. I welded up the nut on the rear of the front Fender so it will accept a new Stainless bolt. I got it all done in time to hit the Local cruise Night. It looks like I need to get the Headers Jet Coated as they are really really HOT!!! Was going to paint them Old Skool White but the Coating will help to keep the heat down. I also do not like the Car Chemistry turn downs as they are really loud and not dep enough sounding...so looks like I will be taking the car down to my local Muffler shop and get a nice dual exhaust Flowmaster setup! But I am pretty happy with the ay it all cam out..I'll take some new photos tomorrow of the Gasser with the Fenderwells and fenders on!!

Milkcrates
08-13-2011, 11:05 AM
I wish I could make as much progress as you do. Anyway, did you compare the loudness factor between open headers and with the CC inserts? How much of a differance, if any, was there? Also, are you having any issues with your frontend set-up, as far as A-arms making contact with the frame rails?

icody
08-13-2011, 11:43 AM
The difference between the CC Turnouts with a 3 disk insert and open headers was alot..by that I mean the open header was LOUD as are the CC Turnouts, but the CC Turnouts take some of the sharpness out of the Headers! They are some what quieter but not by much!!
As far as the frontend set up..its rides really, really nice....Not Choppy but if I hit a steep bump there is not much down-ward travel and yes the upper A Arm does hit against the Frame...But that only happens once in a blue moon and not very hard!! The Ride quality is pretty good overall and easy to live with..Hey its a HOTROD..LOL

Update: I dropped off the 57 at the local Muffler Shop to a guy I have used before (he has been doing custom exhaust for over 40 Years). He will be running running a Dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust with 40 Series Flowmasters and a cross-over (H Pipe). I'll be picking it up in a couple of hours and will take a few pictures then of the Fenderwells (with the Fenders on this time) and of the New Exhaust. I know there are quite a bit of muffler choices out there, but I have always liked the Flowmaster sound. Can't wait to hear it!

Update 2: Here are the most Recent Pictures with the Inner Fenders removed and the Fender well Headers and new Flowmaster dual exhaust added! I have decided to have the Headers Jet Hot coated but will wait till the winter. I wish a company would offer a white coating but no one does! So the Silver will have to do..That will make them stand out better in the fenders!

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DualFlowmastersinstalled003.jpg?t=1313271831
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DualFlowmastersinstalled004.jpg?t=1313271815
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DualFlowmastersinstalled002.jpg?t=1313271844
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DualFlowmastersinstalled001.jpg?t=1313271860

icody
08-14-2011, 12:11 PM
Seems like the work never ends!!!
I took the 57 out for a nice Hill Country Drive last night when it cooled down some (only 95 LOL), when I get home I notice oil inside the rear tire...Thought at fist it was a wheel cylinder, which is not so bad as I will be replacing the entire Brake system in a few weeks as part of a font disc brake install. But after a closer look it is Gear Oil...so that means rear seal....and on a 57 if the seal goes it usually mean the Bearings are close to going as well! So I ordered a new set of Rear wheel bearings that include the seal and gaskets...UGH! Guess when I tear down the rear brakes I will pull the axles and replace the bearings. Anyone have any hints on doing that??

nitrouspro
08-14-2011, 07:10 PM
It's really pretty simple, but if the axles have not been out of the housing in quite a while, I would rent or buy an axle puller/slide hammer. Are you running a stock chevy rear? Might be the good time to upgrade to an early Pontiac/Olds, F**d nine inch or a Dana 60?

icody
08-14-2011, 10:17 PM
Nitrouspro - Thanks I'll see if my local Autozone has one to loan! I could kick myself in the butt. While at the Classic Chevy Convention in Dallas I met a guy that was selling a 1957 Olds Rear that used to be on a 57 Chevy Gasser back in the day. I could have gotten it for 200 Dollars and my choice between 4:56 or 3:73 Rear Gears. Problem is I didn't get his number...CRAP!!!! LOL

rj57
08-15-2011, 01:35 PM
Seems like the work never ends!!!
I took the 57 out for a nice Hill Country Drive last night when it cooled down some (only 95 LOL), when I get home I notice oil inside the rear tire...Thought at fist it was a wheel cylinder, which is not so bad as I will be replacing the entire Brake system in a few weeks as part of a font disc brake install. But after a closer look it is Gear Oil...so that means rear seal....and on a 57 if the seal goes it usually mean the Bearings are close to going as well! So I ordered a new set of Rear wheel bearings that include the seal and gaskets...UGH! Guess when I tear down the rear brakes I will pull the axles and replace the bearings. Anyone have any hints on doing that??

Do you know the axil bearings have a rubber "O" ring around them? It's quite possible the ring has deteriorated and that is your gear oil leak.

I know NAPA does, or did sell replacement "O" rings. I've bought them there. And replaced the "O" ring which cured my gear oil leak.

Of course on the flip side. I'd had bad axil bearings and had to replace them as well. :(

icody
08-15-2011, 04:40 PM
Thanks RJ57. I have heard that on a 57 when the Oring goes bad it usually a sign the the Axel bearing is not far behind. I don't know that to be a fact but figured I might as well change them both now!

Update:
Tonight I got a visit from the Brown Truck Guy and he dropped off the new Axle Bearings!! Wooohooooo.
I also got notice that the Rear Brake Cylinders for the rear (Left and Right side) that were on Back order will be here in a few days. So now I can get on the Disc Bake conversion for the front and the complete rear Drum rebuild (along with the rear self adjusting Brake conversion). When done I will have a completely new (Everything will be replaced) Brake system!

Also going to remove the New Fender well headers to sand and paint them white until I can afford to get them Jet Hot Coated.

That leads me to a question:
After the Headers are Jet Hot Coated can I use a scotch brite pad (Green) to lightly scuff the Jet Hot Coating and then repaint over the top of the coating in White. That way I get the cooling benefits of the Jet Hot Coating but the color that I want them (WHITE). No one make a coating in white (just Silver, Black or Gray). So Can I paint over the Coating????

icody
09-23-2011, 09:22 PM
New Update:
Been working on the New Disc Brake install. So Far I have taken apart the Rear Brakes and taken out both rear axles. Took the axles to my local machine shop and they pressed off the old "Bad" Bearings and pressed on the new ones. Then I re-installed the Axles and new bearings. Then I started on the Rear Brakes. I replaced the Shoes, add all new Hardware, new rear self adjusting brake kit, new Wheel Cylinders and new rear brake lines and rubber hose!
New Brake Job:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/newrearbrakes007.jpg?t=1316827126

New Brake Lines:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/newrearbrakes010.jpg?t=1316827213
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/newrearbrakes011.jpg?t=1316827264

Job Finished (at least the rear part):
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/newrearbrakes013.jpg?t=1316827353

icody
11-17-2011, 04:15 PM
I finally finished up on the Manual Disc Brake conversion. In the prior post I showed the entire rear Drum Brakes have been totally rebuilt. So now the Front Disc Brakes have been finished as well (I'll add pictures later this evening).
Had some trouble taking one of the Spindle bolts that attach the steering arm off! Had to cut off the head with a Cutoff wheel..then once I had the steering arm on the bench I had to heat it cherry red to get the remaing bolt out!
I have ordered some 15 inch steel Braided Brake lines (ordered from Fine Lines) that go from the Calipar to the Steel Brake line as the stock rubber lines 12 inch lines work but are really stretched and probably too short (Remember I have longer Coils in front for the Gasser build). I'll have to swap out the Rubber ones when the new Braided lines come in. I have tried to Bleed the brakes a number of times but I still have to pump them to get pressure so I am sure there is still ait in the lines...I did find that one brake fitting was leaking so I tightened it up and that shud cure the leak. Noow tonight I am heading to a friends and we are going to Power Bleed them (Instead of pumping the brakes you attach a Vacum to the furthest wheel and then pull brake fluid through the master cylinder and lines. That should eleminate the air in the syatem once and forall! I can't think of any reason why else the pressure wont pump up except for air in system! Will let you know how that turns out!
Next up..I need to take back off the Fenderwell Headers and paint the White for that Old School Look! Then time to get to work on the Tilt Frontend!

mrferrisjr
11-17-2011, 07:15 PM
There you are. I've wondered about your build. Good to see you back.
Mike

icody
11-18-2011, 01:11 AM
Hi Mike...Been Busy with the Manual Disc Brake conversion.

Went to a friends house and we Power Bled the Brakes which gave me more Pedal. Then I went to the Rear Brake Drums and Adjusted the brake shoes till they were rubbing on the drum and then baked of the star wheel about 5 clicks. I checked the Brake Pedal and Now I had Full Pedal...wooohooo.. Great Brake.
I went with a Manual vice a Power Brake setup as I didn't like how much room the Power setup took in the engine Bay and I also thought the Manual Brake setup was more correct for a Period Gasser! I still have to swap out the Rubber Caliper Brake line with extended Steel Braided Lines. Should get them in the mail by next week and install then then which will complete my Manual Disc Brake install!
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakeinstall008.jpg?t=1321592249
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakeinstall009.jpg?t=1321592981
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakeinstall010.jpg?t=1321593033
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakeinstall012.jpg?t=1321593087

jlow1979
11-18-2011, 09:09 PM
what disc brake set up did you use ? and what did you pay for it

icody
11-19-2011, 12:26 AM
I bought it off Ebay for 380.00 (Think the place was call Toms Classics)! That included everything except for the lines, which I called the company up and ordered the complete rear to front line kit. I think that was another 100 bucks. The kit and lines are actually a FineLines kit and brake lines. Was the cheapest kit for Manual brakes that I found. Its a nice kit and easy to install. I complicated things by also rebuilding the entire rear Drums (new wheel cylinders, brakes and complete hardware as well as a self adjusting kit!). I wanted to have all new and reliable brakes..again I went for the non-power (Manual), brake setup as I think its more period correct for a Gasser. I tell you what.... the Brakes are fantastic!!!!
I did have to replace the front brake hoses with longer ones (went with Braided Steel lines), since I have the taller coil springs the original kits rubber hoses are to short. (they work but are very tight so thats why I replaced them (or going to replace them as I have them on order and waiting for them to get here!)

mrferrisjr
11-19-2011, 06:02 PM
I put power disc on my '56 and will never do that again. I changed to the small diameter booster and it's still hard to get the valve cover off. To me, the manual brakes really don't take much more pedal pressure than the power.:)

icody
11-19-2011, 06:22 PM
It was based on looks for me...and also the fact that I have Fenderwell Headers. But I understand to each his own. I really don't notice that much of a difference in pedal pressure over the stock one cylinder master cylinder and Drum Brakes, except in stopping Power. It stops much faster and has a better solid/control feel over the stock system. Plus its safer!!!

icody
11-20-2011, 04:51 PM
Well I still need the get the Frontend aligned but other than that its running and stopping great! Here is the front end and as you can see I need to adjust the Camber!
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakedone001.jpg?t=1321821855

Here is two close up shots of the Disc Brake setups. I am going to replace the very tight Rubber Brake Hose with some Longer Braided Stainless Brake Hoses This week when the UPS guy shows up!
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakedone003.jpg?t=1321822011
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakedone002.jpg?t=1321822108

The a nice side view of the Car as it currently sits!!
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakedone005.jpg?t=1321819780
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakedone006.jpg?t=1321819811

I also Hooked back up the Electric Choke and the Idle is much better and it is running Great!

jlow1979
12-04-2011, 11:23 PM
looks awsome keep at it gets better every time i see it

icody
12-05-2011, 12:49 AM
looks awsome keep at it gets better every time i see it

Thanks jlow...if you see my other thread you will see that I am going to add a Straight front axle soon! That should really put the ol'girl over the top! Can't wait! Hope it gos together smoothly! :p3:

The Candy Man
12-05-2011, 10:12 AM
Looks awesome dude!!! You've certainly made a big difference from what it used to look like. I'm getting my '57 out of the garage for the first time in ages tomorrow, so I'll be able to take some similar side shots and stand back to have a look to see just how good or bad it looks.
Keep at it,
Micky T. bowtie-trifive

jlow1979
12-05-2011, 08:45 PM
really a straight axle .. i think it looks awsome as is ...make sure you post every picture you can of the axle swap and part number so i can copy it ...good luck .lol

icody
12-05-2011, 09:25 PM
I decided just because of cost and completeness of their kits, to go with a Speedway Straight axle kit!
It will have the same stance except a better ride ...Yeah I know how can I say a straight axle will have a better ride!! LOL
Plus, it's only my opinion, but straight axle says Gasser! (at least to me)!
When I start the install I will take good pictures and part numbers!!

icody
12-15-2011, 12:11 AM
Well Santa arrived early at my house in the form of a UPS driver (of all things.. Lol). Best part he was struggling with 4 boxes which were the 50" straight front axle kit from Speedway motors!!! I decided since it was not yet Christmas that he could use the front door instead of the chimmney! Lol. Only issue is it shud have been 5 boxes not 4, but since they were not expected until Friday i figure they shud be here by tomorrow or even Friday ( so wont worry till then, after all, Santas Elfs are pretty busy majing toys so was good of them to take the time to weld up the axle kit). Just wish the Installation was part of the deal.. Oh well building them is halfthe fun.. Right?.. Ummm right? Hello???

Oh I almost forgot.. I have been such a good boy(...er man), this year that Santa daid he was throwing in a set(2) of Rocket "injector" polished rims to go with the grey spokes thT I already have. Ya know that Santa is a pretty nice guy after all... And to think I was gonna blast him as my 4 YO told me last night he saw mommy kissin Santa Clause! I forgive him.. Have trouble keeping my hands off the little woman myself!! Looks like i am going to have a busy adter new year... Ho Ho Ho Merry Christmas!! (sorry couldnt resiist)!

jblack55
12-15-2011, 03:18 AM
looks awsome keep at it gets better every time i see it




:congrats: :tu:tu :anim_25:

:gba:

rj57
12-17-2011, 01:56 PM
What do the Rocket wheels look like? Not sure I've ever seen one?


As a young kid, I recall seeing cars setting like this. I always wondered if it was just like driving uphill constantly? :happy0009:

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/DiscBrakedone006.jpg?t=1321819811

icody
12-17-2011, 05:53 PM
It looks like the old Hilbrand style wheel but its polished and the way they are made it gives the illusion of a really deep dish even in an 8 inch wide wheel:

My 57 actually sits even.. It it parked on an uphill drive way so it really does drive like its going up hill.. Lol

http://www.rocketracingwheels.com/product_images/product_photo-large_image-343.jpg

Gary Nyland
12-18-2011, 10:49 AM
We'll just have to rename you "Rocket Man" just like in the song!

icody
12-18-2011, 11:57 AM
Hmmmmmm been looking for a name for the car!!! I like it... ROCKET MAN!!!
Tks Gary! So what have you been up too?

rj57
12-19-2011, 03:30 PM
Thanks for the photo of the Rocket wheels you plan on using.

icody
12-31-2011, 05:06 PM
Finally found time to look at the speedway straight axle kit. What a nice kit. Has everything except for the shocks (has the shock mounts but need to measure for the right shock length), and does not have the drag link (as I also have to measure that to get the right length). Other than that it's complete! Going to take all the old frontend parts off next weekend ( should be easy as I just rebuilt the entire frontend less than 500 miles ago, and just installed the new disc brakes too). Going to weld the axle on the stock frame invade I ever want to go back stock again (not that it will ever happen... Lol)!
Also took out the 57 for a final ride with the stock lifted front suspension.. So will be interesting to see how the straight axle ride compares!

1971BB427
01-02-2012, 06:25 PM
The straight axle will really take your '57 to the next level! The Speedway axle is a very nice item, and I really like mine. Not sure where the rumor got started about questions on strength? I had to narrow mine down to 38" (my car is only 51" wide at the fenders) and was pleasantly suprised to see the axle tube walls are about 7/16" thick! That's a lot thicker than most makers use, so I'm not worried about strength.
Looking forward to seeing your car with the straight axle in it. Are you reusing any part of the disc brake setup with the new axle?

icody
01-03-2012, 11:34 AM
I bought the disc brake setup with the straight axle from speedway so the setup I have now I will sell. The only piece I am keeping is the dual master cylinder I have.
Looks like I will start the setup as soo as I get back from my business trip this weekend!

2Loose
01-04-2012, 07:03 PM
Congrats on getting that straight axle setup, I think you'll like it. I was eyeballing that setup myself, when I ran across my 59 ford truck front axle (complete with springs, steering, and upgraded disk brakes) for free, so went with that. But all the work needed to install that the way I wanted, it would have been easier to go with the Speedway setup.

Have you found carbs for your dual 4bbl setup yet?

Can't wait to see how it looks! It will be even more awsum than it is now!
Aloha, and Happy New Year....
Willy

dadmichael
01-10-2012, 03:55 AM
The '57 is looking great!
Can't wait to see the new rims on the car.
Looking forward to the install on the straight axle too.
Thanks for sharing! :)

icody
04-19-2012, 11:30 PM
Been awhile since I have update my build, been working too hard and not enough on the 57!!
First off I have the Tunnel Ram all setup (mocked up actually). I went with two Holley 450 CFM cabs. They Mount Sideways on my TR1 Tunnel Ram so I also bought and mocked up the Sideways linkage kit. The added the Scoop. So what do you think....Should look great on the 57!
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/tunnelramcarbs001.jpg
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/tunnelramcarbs002.jpg

As for the Straight Axle install...it begins next week. Hopefully I can find time for Photos. I cut some 3/16' steel plate into Four 3" x 8" pieces. I Will weld them to the frame first and then weld the Leaf spring mounts to them to spread out the weight on the frame. Also am using a 1 1/2" round tube to use as a front cross member where the front bumper mounted to stiffen up the stock frame as well. Will get the pictures loaded as soon as I get it done. The Welder guy I am using (I really dont trust my welding skills on a frontend!!), said he is available next week so will have to get most done and fit him in as he can!! I am hoping to have it all torn down and the new axle tacked into place later next week, as I was just told I have another work trip to go on. So the plan is to have it ready for final welding by next week so that while I am gone the final finish welding can be done...I will be in contact with the welder while I am away.

Then I can start on the tunnel ram install, along with the Comp Cams Thumper Cam install ,and MSD 6AL box and Pro Billet Distributer.
I will post pictures when I get the time....as I have to get it all ready for final welding begining the 26th April.

1971BB427
04-20-2012, 12:40 AM
Looks great! I just finished helping a buddy put a Weiand tunnel ram and twin 500 Edelbrocks on his '56 Chevy. I was surprised how well it ran right out of the box. He's got the middle sized Thumpr in his 350.

TwoLane
04-20-2012, 06:09 PM
lookin' good Cody......Love the tunnel ram...

I'm even more excited to see the front end install....I would like to know how it all goes together..some day I will get a strait axle kit...someday....:p3:........until then I'll just settle for your old setup..:)


Justin.

mickeywestsr
04-20-2012, 08:02 PM
Thats a cool set up.....gonna run awesome...:shakehands:
:gba:
bowtie-trifive

MT94SS
04-20-2012, 11:03 PM
Sweet Cody. That's going to look cool. Should be able to close the hood but would you want to hide that? :D

Vealmonkey
04-21-2012, 01:51 AM
Are you going to be selling off all the old front end parts? I've got a 57 that I would really like to do the same type of build on and since you already have everything. I'm a new member on here, but I would be interested in your parts. Thanks.

TwoLane
04-21-2012, 12:42 PM
Are you going to be selling off all the old front end parts? I've got a 57 that I would really like to do the same type of build on and since you already have everything. I'm a new member on here, but I would be interested in your parts. Thanks.


iCody and I have a Deal already made on the old front suspension parts....

thanks again iCody...look forward to it.

Should work great until I can scratch up enough to get a real straight axle....:)..

icody
04-21-2012, 01:10 PM
Two lane: I have another work trip that will be gone on for 3 weeks. I expect to be back on the 19 may and I should have all the parts ready to ship to you. I can ship in separate boxes as the parts are gonna have some weight to them. Will have the shipping total too!!! So only 3 weeks and i can ship you the parts!!!

I really need to win the lotto as this work thing keeps getting in my way.. Lol

TwoLane
04-21-2012, 01:40 PM
Two lane: I have another work trip that will be gone on for 3 weeks. I expect to be back on the 19 may and I should have all the parts ready to ship to you. I can ship in separate boxes as the parts are gonna have some weight to them. Will have the shipping total too!!! So only 3 weeks and i can ship you the parts!!!

I really need to win the lotto as this work thing keeps getting in my way.. Lol

dont we all Bud, dont we all......

sounds great,....lemme know the damage and I can get you $$$...lol

Its been a long time comin'.....and I'm almost done with the body work....next the frame and suspension/floors......so you will prob be right on time....:)....

thanks again.

justin

Vealmonkey
04-21-2012, 05:24 PM
Congrats on the deal and the nice parts. Can't wait to see your car with the built up suspension as well. Post lots of pics.

TwoLane
04-21-2012, 09:29 PM
Congrats on the deal and the nice parts. Can't wait to see your car with the built up suspension as well. Post lots of pics.

believe me I think we both will.......I'm anxious to see Icody's

icody
05-24-2012, 09:15 PM
So finally, here are some pictures of the Front end Speedway Straight Axle install. First off let me say that the pictures were taken with my Cell phone so they are not the best but I think you can see them clear enough. I started by ordering the 50" axle kit from Speedway Motors. I did not trust my welding skills so I am having a local fabrication shop (Corky's Engineering), here in San Antonio TX do the welding, so everything is Tig-welded!!

They removed all the old (actually in my case new rebuilt) front end parts. I have already promised the New parts to TwoLane (a member on here). I took care to save every bolt and nut and they did not hammer on any part..so all the old parts are still in great shape (especially since I just rebuilt the whole front end about 500 miles ago!!..UGH)
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5190038.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5190041.jpg

Then I started off by cutting 4, 3 inch wide x 4 inch long pieces of 1/8' plate for Corky's to weld to the underside of each mounting area, to strengthen the frame where the leaf spring mounts are welded. Then they welded the leaf spring mounts to the plates (which they had welded to the frame).
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5200071.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5200070.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5210074.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/mountwelded.jpg

I decided to mount the leaf spring shackle on the rear as that is the way Jeep did them and its also the way the rear leafs are done.. I don't think it really matters..just personnel preference.

They mounted the Leafs too the Straight axle mount and used a floor jack to jack the axle into position...They measured time and time again to ensure I had the same side to side spacing and then used an Angle finder to slope/slant the axle back 7 degrees and then tacked the leaf spring mount to the straight axle.
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5190044.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/P5210075.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/rightspring.jpg

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/leftspring.jpg

After Tacking the Leaf springs in place they then took them back off the car and welded them into place.
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/frontwelded.jpg

So that is where the car is currently at. Still need to bolt on the spindles and the disc brakes and then measure the Shock length and order those from NAPA (I plan on using a set of Monroe shocks). Still have to weld a piece of round bar to the front frame rails to give them more strength and rigidity (sort of a front cross member). Corky's is also welding up a Drag Link to connect the Steering Arm to the Pittman arm on the steering box. The Original Pittman Arm has a Ball on the end that I plan on cutting off, and then drilling a 5/8" hole to attach the Helm Joint from the Drag Link. The kit already comes with a tie-rod bar. Then just have to install the new Braided Brake Hoses that I bought (The kit does not come with brake hoses). Then Bleed the brakes and take the car out for its first drive with the new Straight Axle!

I will get Better pictures when I pick the car up! I can't wait!!!

If I had better welding skills I would have done the job myself, but I welded a muffler mount on my everyday driver and the muffler fell off...I don't want that happening to my straight Axle...LOL

classic gary
05-24-2012, 11:13 PM
If you cut the end off the pitman off, making it shorter, it will be harder to steer, and the wheels won't turn/steer as far.

nitrouspro
05-25-2012, 12:22 AM
I cut the ball off the pitman arm also, but drilled the 5/8 hole where the center of the ball was. I think that's what Cody is going to do as well ?
al

I also heated and bent the pitman arm, to change the angle of the mounting surface of the heim joint, and to allow for more clearance of the drag link where it goes above the drivers side leaf springs

MT94SS
05-25-2012, 01:40 AM
Yeah, they can press out the ball then bore the hole to fit your heims.

p.s. we need to get you a good cell phone... maybe an iphone - I don't even hardly use my real camera any more.

classic gary
05-25-2012, 05:28 AM
Ok, so why not just use a stock type power steering pitman arm? It's already got just a hole in te end.........

icody
05-25-2012, 08:47 AM
The guys are correct.. Not cutting the end off .. Just the ball.. I didn't know it was pressed in.. So will press it back out!!! Lol.. Then just drill the hole larger to accept the new bolt for the helm joint. I could buy a new power steering arm but i am all about using what i have on hand ( thus saving money). I used my iphone 3GS but when i went to download (upload??) the pictures were very small, so i lost a lot of detail expanding them!

Moon Rocket
05-25-2012, 08:57 AM
Looks good! :tu Stay with it, the air is great up here!!! :sign0020:

MT94SS
05-25-2012, 09:49 AM
Here's my stock arm with the heim. Works well. I removed the track bar since this shot. I went to a high steer with a modified (heated and bent) stock lower arm mounted high on the pass side.

1971BB427
05-25-2012, 11:02 AM
My friend's '56 uses the stock ball and arm. Simply welded the old end to the new drag link. Works great, and I like the way the ball end removes so easily, and keeps the stock arm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/marlinguy/dentrepair006.jpg

stewartwhite
05-25-2012, 11:03 AM
Does the grill and bumper stay or go?

icody
05-25-2012, 12:18 PM
The grill stays, the bumper is already gone

TwoLane
05-26-2012, 11:30 AM
O dang.....e-mailed ya before I saw this update....happy to see some good progress....lookin' good...but waiting for better pics..lol..:)
mine is still sitting getting finishing touches on the body work...cannot wait to see your car when completed....she should look KILLER..!!!......
Congrats on the progress...I know its hard to get anywhere and with such a big project like this, can take us guys months of just thinking..:).

thanks for keeping us posted..

Original Pete
05-27-2012, 11:23 AM
Looks good! :tu Stay with it, the air is great up here!!! :sign0020:

:sign0020::sign0020::sign0020: The progress is coming along nicely :tu:tu

icody
05-27-2012, 11:47 AM
I guess you can Teach an old dog new tricks...LOL I fixed all the fuzzy pictures...and downloaded a few new ones as well!

I am trying to decide if I should use two helm joints on the Drag Link (Same as the Tie rod), or should I use one end as a helm joint and weld the original Ball Socket to the other end and then I can use the Stock non-Power steering Pitman am and leave the Ball on it.

I don't think I gain anything over using one over the other!

TwoLane
05-27-2012, 01:32 PM
I guess you can Teach an old dog new tricks...LOL I fixed all the fuzzy pictures...and downloaded a few new ones as well!

I am trying to decide if I should use two helm joints on the Drag Link (Same as the Tie rod), or should I use one end as a helm joint and weld the original Ball Socket to the other end and then I can use the Stock non-Power steering Pitman am and leave the Ball on it.

I don't think I gain anything over using one over the other!

AAwwww....now I can see what you are doing...:).....Looks like you are doing a great job so far...not too far off from rolling down the road..

bad55gasser
05-28-2012, 09:33 AM
This is what was done to clear the pan and keep the stock pitman arm. The more horizontal you keep the drag link to the axle, the less chance of bump steer you have. It has been that way for years with no issues. I like the ball setup also and did not have to heat the pitman arm. All ways shown will work just personal preferance.

icody
05-31-2012, 11:00 PM
Still Continuing to make progress on the Straight Axle install. One thing to note for anyone attempting to install a SPEEDWAY Straight Axle kit. These are not simple Bolt in kits, nor are they simple weld in kits. There is still a fair amount of fabrication to do. These kits are just an assortment of Parts put together by SPEEDWAY of the most common parts needed in a straight axle install. Their instructions are not even close to the changes we have had to make to install the kit! But let me also say that SPEEDWAY has been very helpful whenever we have called with questions!! They are a first rate company to deal with...just keep in mind these kits are not a simple weld in, bolt in and go!!!

So here is what we have done so far this week!

The Straight Axle is all welded and bolted into place...the tie-rod is also bolted into place in order to measure and mock up the Drag Link.

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/Tierodinstalled-1.jpg

The Spindles are installed (The Races or cups are installed, and the Bearings are Packed), and tightened.

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/spindleinstalled.jpg

The Steering Arms have been installed. Here is one area that differs from the instructions and the pictures in the instructions. In the Instructions/pictures the steering arms are shown bolted on the top of the spindle but there is no way to do that as the Disc Brake Calipers are in the way. So we had to install them on the bottom of the spindles..a call to the SPEEDWAY Tech person confirmed that we were correct, and they have to be installed on the bottom (different from what the pictures/instructions say)!

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/steeringarm.jpg

Another area where we had to make changes from what the directions an pictures show is the Tie-rod under the springs (Which because we had to install the steering arms under the spindle, that is correct. However, it then shows the Drag Link installed on the Steering arm with a spacer that allows the Drag Link to be installed through the springs. This does seem to be correct..We do not need the spacer and the Drag Link will be under the spring and angle up towards the Pitman Arm. This might cause a Bump Steer condition but we will work on that if it becomes an issue. We can always weld a track Bar rom the Straight axle to the frame to eliminate any bump steer condition.

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/icody69/draglinghelm.jpg

(The above photo shows the Spacer at the bottom of the Bolt. There is no way it will fit at the top. You can see the Tie-rod Helm on the bottom and at the top of the bolt is the Drag Link Helm. There is just enough room with the Drag Link Helm installed to install the Bottom bolt that holds that Caliper in place. We will remove the Spacer at the bottom and use a shorter bolt since the spacer is not required. It also shows that the Braided Brake lines I had bought were a little short..However we can work around that by cutting the Hard Line mount that is up high on the frame and re-weld it lower on the frame (we have enough hard line to be able to move it down), that will move the Braided Brake line 4 inches closer to the Caliper which will be enough to mount them up!!).

The next thing we did was to remove the Original Pitman Arm and cut off the Ball Stud on the pitman arm. We then drilled a hole where the ball was, in order to install a bolt in the helm joint. That worked great!

So all we have left to do is to adjust the Toe-In, Install the reworked Pitman Arm, Bolt in the New Drag Link, Then Weld in the New Shock Mounts. We are using the stock 57 Shocks but removed the end that uses two bolts to install, so now its a single bolt that passes through the bottom of the shock to attach to the new mount. I will add new pictures as we get the final parts completed! Won't be long now!!!

1971BB427
06-01-2012, 12:35 AM
I went with the Ford spindle kit with Chevy 4.75" bolt pattern because of the issue you're having with the drag link and calipers. The Speedway kit with Ford spindles is made differently and allows the bracket to be mounted on the top and not interfere with the caliper mounting.
My kit also came with numerous spacers and different length bolts, so you could use what was needed to shorten it. Seems they've made some changes in the wrong direction since fall of 2010.
I also found the instructions to be lacking. Incomplete and lacking detail or pictures. I fumbled through without calling, but it would have been easier to just make a call.

Gary Nyland
06-02-2012, 10:24 AM
Well your almost there. As a Charter Member of the "TGA" Texas Gasser Association you need to get thing on the road!!!

TwoLane
06-02-2012, 10:37 AM
Nice....not too far from done....keep it rollin'.....

icody
06-02-2012, 04:21 PM
Let the TGA meetings almost begin.. Now for a roll call of the members.. Gary "here", Dave "here"! Thats it, thanks for attending!!! Lol