57 powerglide

[Saquili]

Does anyone have a schemactic of a 57 cast iron powerglide? I need a diagram of the passenger side where the filler tube goes in showing that plate removed and the seal that fits on the filler tube. :cool:

[chevman57]

Sounds like you need a shop manual for the 57. Has lots of info and diagrams of the different areas.
Terry

[1957chevy]

I have a shop manual for the 57 but I can't find anything for him in it.

[57viper]

Good news! I have a complete breakdown of the powerglide, bad news! I will have to put it into my computer and convert to PDF before I can send it, I'll get on it today.
Bob

That didn't take long, check your mailbox, oh boy I forgot I had this book it has exploded views of almost everything and numbers up the wazoo, goldmine!!!!!!

[57driver]

Good news! I have a complete breakdown of the powerglide, bad news! I will have to put it into my computer and convert to PDF before I can send it, I'll get on it today.
Bob

That didn't take long, check your mailbox, oh boy I forgot I had this book it has exploded views of almost everything and numbers up the wazoo, goldmine!!!!!!

I know that this is an old thread, but is there any chance that you still have the PDF that you could send me? I need to remove the rear pump on my 57 Powerglide this afternoon and want to make sure that it can come out from the rear, without removing the trans. Also want to make sure that there are no hidden tricks to the process so I don't wreck anything. Thanks!

[57viper]

I know that this is an old thread, but is there any chance that you still have the PDF that you could send me? I need to remove the rear pump on my 57 Powerglide this afternoon and want to make sure that it can come out from the rear, without removing the trans. Also want to make sure that there are no hidden tricks to the process so I don't wreck anything. Thanks!

Sorry driver not without an e-mail address, it's not listed on tri-5 so I'm out of options.
Bob

[57driver]

Sorry driver not without an e-mail address, it's not listed on tri-5 so I'm out of options.
Bob

Strange. It shows up in my profile, but I must not have it in the right place to be visible to all. If you could E-mail to (clear text address removed by 57driver) that would be great! I just finished making a puller for the speedo drive gear, and am ready to pull the pump. Thanks!

[57driver]

Can anyone tell me if the Iron Powerglide rear pump can be removed while the trans is in the car? I have the extension housing off, have removed the snap ring that retains the rear bearing, and removed the 4 bolts for the pump. The pump freely slides rearward about 1/4" and stops hard. I have made up a puller so I can get a better grip on the pump, but it does not easily slide rearward anymore, and I know better than to force it. Is there a trick to removing the pump, or does the output shaft only slide out the rear, clearing the way for the pump to come out of the housing? Please only reply if you know for sure, and have done this. I don't want to guess and wreck anything. Thanks for any help that any of you can provide.

57Driver.

[56 Wagon Wheel]

The powerglide sticky looks like the rear pump is fitted when the case is dissassembled, maybe I read it wrong because I only did a quick scan but I think you might have a bigger job on your hands that you think, hope not

[gman]

Can anyone tell me if the Iron Powerglide rear pump can be removed while the trans is in the car? I have the extension housing off, have removed the snap ring that retains the rear bearing, and removed the 4 bolts for the pump. The pump freely slides rearward about 1/4" and stops hard. I have made up a puller so I can get a better grip on the pump, but it does not easily slide rearward anymore, and I know better than to force it. Is there a trick to removing the pump, or does the output shaft only slide out the rear, clearing the way for the pump to come out of the housing? Please only reply if you know for sure, and have done this. I don't want to guess and wreck anything. Thanks for any help that any of you can provide.

57Driver.

It can be removed with the trans still in the car. there is a small key/pin in the output shaft that drives the small rear pump gear. if memory serves me right, there is a mark at the end of the output shaft, that needs to point to the 12 o'clock position. this allows the gear in the pump to slide off the shaft.

try tapping the rear part of the pump housing, it will come off, allowing you access to the pump gears and front part of the pump.

[57driver]

It can be removed with the trans still in the car. there is a small key/pin in the output shaft that drives the small rear pump gear. if memory serves me right, there is a mark at the end of the output shaft, that needs to point to the 12 o'clock position. this allows the gear in the pump to slide off the shaft.

try tapping the rear part of the pump housing, it will come off, allowing you access to the pump gears and front part of the pump.

Correct. My output shaft has a "O" in it, presumably to denote the position of the drive pin. I have tried lining it up at 12 o'clock a couple of times but the pump still stops when trying to pull it. Maybe I need to try a few more times. Is this the pin that everyone refers to as the pin that breaks, which causes the trans to not shift into High gear? My trans won't shift into high gear. Just pulled the governor and it is OK. To test the rear pump, I drove the car up to about 35mph in low gear, shifted to neutral and shut off the engine. After about 5 seconds, I put the key into the On position, and shifted the trans into Drive, then after a little bit, into Low. Neither position would turn the motor over so I am assuming that the rear pump is not making pressure, which is why I want to pull it to inspect. Thanks for the confirmation that I am not missing anything else, and If any of you have any more ideas I would be grateful for the help. Thanks,

Driver.

[57driver]

Please look at the attached photo to see if I am missing anything obvious. If you look closely, you can see that the "O" on the output shaft is at the 12 o'clock position. It sounds like this is the position of a drive pin that is pressed into the output shaft, and there must be a clearance notch in the pump body to clear the head of the pin, to allow the pump to be removed, correct? No matter where I rotate the shaft, even in tiny increments between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock the pump slides back about 1/4" and stops very hard against something. I can pull on it by hand using the long studs shown in the photo, and after it stops I can push it right back in, so I don't think that there is a burr in the snap ring groove on the OD of the output shaft, as this would tend to slowly stick and wedge against the ID of the bearing. Has anyone else run into this before? I am really sunk if I cannot get this pump out, as I completely rebuilt this trans about 5 years ago, and just got the car together about 3 weeks ago, and have only been able to put about 800 miles on it before this problem started. It is the correct original trans for the car and I do not want to damage it or be forced to scrap it after all the work of the cleanup and rebuild. Thanks.

[gman]

Please look at the attached photo to see if I am missing anything obvious. If you look closely, you can see that the "O" on the output shaft is at the 12 o'clock position. It sounds like this is the position of a drive pin that is pressed into the output shaft, and there must be a clearance notch in the pump body to clear the head of the pin, to allow the pump to be removed, correct? No matter where I rotate the shaft, even in tiny increments between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock the pump slides back about 1/4" and stops very hard against something. I can pull on it by hand using the long studs shown in the photo, and after it stops I can push it right back in, so I don't think that there is a burr in the snap ring groove on the OD of the output shaft, as this would tend to slowly stick and wedge against the ID of the bearing. Has anyone else run into this before? I am really sunk if I cannot get this pump out, as I completely rebuilt this trans about 5 years ago, and just got the car together about 3 weeks ago, and have only been able to put about 800 miles on it before this problem started. It is the correct original trans for the car and I do not want to damage it or be forced to scrap it after all the work of the cleanup and rebuild. Thanks.

I'm at work, so don't have my manuals handy. However, if memory serves me right, there is a snap ring in front to the bearing assembly that you are looking at. Since you have removed the snap ring behing the bearing, and removed the bolts holding the bearing retainer, the bearing with retainer needs to come off first. squeek your fingers behind (in front of the tin retainer) and pull back on the retainer while tapping the side of the output shaft. this usually causes enough movement that you can usually pull the bearing and retainer off the shaft. once removed, you then gain access to the rear pump.
\

[57driver]

I'm at work, so don't have my manuals handy. However, if memory serves me right, there is a snap ring in front to the bearing assembly that you are looking at. Since you have removed the snap ring behing the bearing, and removed the bolts holding the bearing retainer, the bearing with retainer needs to come off first. squeek your fingers behind (in front of the tin retainer) and pull back on the retainer while tapping the side of the output shaft. this usually causes enough movement that you can usually pull the bearing and retainer off the shaft. once removed, you then gain access to the rear pump.
\

Gman, you are the man on this one. This was the last piece of the puzzle needed to get the rear pump out. My drive pin was in fact sheared off, so of course the rear pump would not make pressure, and the trans would not go into high gear. I will get lots of photos as I go back together and write up a procedure to post here, so others have some good data to go on when encountering this problem. In my case a strong contributing factor, if not the outright root cause of pin shear was that the pump gears do not have enough axial clearance in the pump housing. This makes the gears very tight in the pump body when assembled, which loads the drive pin way too much, causing it to shear. I will show how to check and reset that clearance in my procedure to follow. I suspect that many pumps are tight, accelerating pin wear and shear. Thanks again to Gman for getting me over the hump on the most important part, pump removal.

[gman]

Gman, you are the man on this one. This was the last piece of the puzzle needed to get the rear pump out. My drive pin was in fact sheared off, so of course the rear pump would not make pressure, and the trans would not go into high gear. I will get lots of photos as I go back together and write up a procedure to post here, so others have some good data to go on when encountering this problem. In my case a strong contributing factor, if not the outright root cause of pin shear was that the pump gears do not have enough axial clearance in the pump housing. This makes the gears very tight in the pump body when assembled, which loads the drive pin way too much, causing it to shear. I will show how to check and reset that clearance in my procedure to follow. I suspect that many pumps are tight, accelerating pin wear and shear. Thanks again to Gman for getting me over the hump on the most important part, pump removal.



unless the drive gear has been reversed before, you can usually put a new pin and and turn the gear around so that the new pin drives against the opposite side off the gear.

[fran0216]

How did you managed to remove the bearing, Ive removed the front snap ring but I am having problems removing the bearing, did you use some special tool? I've tried tapping on the shaft while pulling out the thin bearing retainer but still could not come out, did you use a special tool? Please let me know.. Thanks


Please look at the attached photo to see if I am missing anything obvious. If you look closely, you can see that the "O" on the output shaft is at the 12 o'clock position. It sounds like this is the position of a drive pin that is pressed into the output shaft, and there must be a clearance notch in the pump body to clear the head of the pin, to allow the pump to be removed, correct? No matter where I rotate the shaft, even in tiny increments between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock the pump slides back about 1/4" and stops very hard against something. I can pull on it by hand using the long studs shown in the photo, and after it stops I can push it right back in, so I don't think that there is a burr in the snap ring groove on the OD of the output shaft, as this would tend to slowly stick and wedge against the ID of the bearing. Has anyone else run into this before? I am really sunk if I cannot get this pump out, as I completely rebuilt this trans about 5 years ago, and just got the car together about 3 weeks ago, and have only been able to put about 800 miles on it before this problem started. It is the correct original trans for the car and I do not want to damage it or be forced to scrap it after all the work of the cleanup and rebuild. Thanks.

[gman]

How did you managed to remove the bearing, Ive removed the front snap ring but I am having problems removing the bearing, did you use some special tool? I've tried tapping on the shaft while pulling out the thin bearing retainer but still could not come out, did you use a special tool? Please let me know.. Thanks

They can sometimes be a bit difficult. however, just slide a couple of fingers under the tin bearing retainer and pull to the rear while you also tap on the output shaft.

[fran0216]

Thanks gman, The Rear Oil Pump Drive Pin is also sheared on my powerglide. From the manual the proper adjustment for the low/reverse servo is to tighten and back 4 turns. But how do you adjust the bands so the pins don't shear? Thanks again!!



They can sometimes be a bit difficult. however, just slide a couple of fingers under the tin bearing retainer and pull to the rear while you also tap on the output shaft.

[gman]

Thanks gman, The Rear Oil Pump Drive Pin is also sheared on my powerglide. From the manual the proper adjustment for the low/reverse servo is to tighten and back 4 turns. But how do you adjust the bands so the pins don't shear? Thanks again!!

band adjustment has nothing to do with the rear pump drive pin. the pin wearing out is just a symptom of the design of the transmission. if the gear is worn where the pin drives against the gear, turn the gear around so that the pin now drives against the other side (in the key way).