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		<title><![CDATA[Welcome to TriFive.com                Classic 1955 - 1956 - 1957 Chevy's Forum, Photo Gallery and Classifieds.  Here you can Buy, Sell, or Trade. Get or Give Advice, or Just Talk Classic Cars.]]></title>
		<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/</link>
		<description>55 chevy 56 chevy 57 chevy 1955 Chevy 1956 Chevy  1957 Chevy Belair 210 150 Trifive.com</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:40:09 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[Welcome to TriFive.com                Classic 1955 - 1956 - 1957 Chevy's Forum, Photo Gallery and Classifieds.  Here you can Buy, Sell, or Trade. Get or Give Advice, or Just Talk Classic Cars.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/</link>
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			<title>Has anyone ever bodydropped a tri-5?</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35283&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:34:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I had an evil thought with a 4 door 210 55 I just drug in :cool: Its floors are pretty shot but it would be a great 4 door to 2 door conversion...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I had an evil thought with a 4 door 210 55 I just drug in :cool: Its floors are pretty shot but it would be a great 4 door to 2 door conversion project! It seems like there was one on ebay not too long ago. Anyone ever attempted a bodydrop?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37">Chit Chat Area,  Anything on your mind goes here.</category>
			<dc:creator>Hafrod</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35283</guid>
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			<title>Wheel and tire selection dilemma</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35282&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:07:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Let me start out with info about my 55 hardtop. 
I've installed zero offset disc brakes on the front using my original spindles. And have put stock...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Let me start out with info about my 55 hardtop.<br />
I've installed zero offset disc brakes on the front using my original spindles. And have put stock height Moog springs in it.<br />
I have the original rear end with a rear disc brake kit that moves the wheels out about 1/8&quot; on each side. I've installed new (4 leaf) springs in the back at stock height.<br />
<br />
Here's my dilemma. If I go with 15&quot; wheels (8&quot; 4.5&quot; bs in back, 7&quot; 4.25&quot; bs front), I am pretty much limited to using Goodrich T/A tires due to size availability. If I go with 15&quot; wheels, I would want 235/60R15's in the back and either 215 or 225/60R15 in the front. Only the T/As come in both those sizes. Even tho I would turn the RWLs in, I really don't like the idea of running different brand or model tires front and rear.<br />
<br />
I have always maintained that I like 15&quot; wheels on Tri Fives the best. However, if I go with 16&quot;X8&quot; back and 16&quot;X7&quot; front, It opens up several different tire brand choices. <br />
I'd then change to 235/65R16 in the back and 215 or 225/65R16 in the front.<br />
<br />
Ideas, suggestions, comments?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70">Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc</category>
			<dc:creator>roger1</dc:creator>
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			<title>Not a trifive</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35281&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:27:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Heres what I just picked up.My wife use to have one just like it so Im going to fix it up for her.Im putting in the 350 that I had saved for my 56.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Heres what I just picked up.My wife use to have one just like it so Im going to fix it up for her.Im putting in the 350 that I had saved for my 56.</div>


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	<td><a href="http://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16384&amp;d=1258748757">62M.jpg</a> (90.4 KB)</td>
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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37">Chit Chat Area,  Anything on your mind goes here.</category>
			<dc:creator>badboy56</dc:creator>
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			<title>Wife trouble</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35280&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:21:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Alright, it's really not like that at all, but........ So I convinced her that I need this custom frame from Laszlo, I told her it would save me 6...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Alright, it's really not like that at all, but........ So I convinced her that I need this custom frame from Laszlo, I told her it would save me 6 months build time. Now she's chomping at the bit and wants it done soon. She's telling me not to make it into a work of art, she wants to drive it before she's dead:sign0020:<br />
How do I convince her I need to spend time to make everything perfect? Maybe I should go buy a her a driver:confused0006: Do any of you guys have this problem?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37">Chit Chat Area,  Anything on your mind goes here.</category>
			<dc:creator>Highveelocity</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35280</guid>
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			<title>4.8/5.3/6.0L EVAP systems</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35279&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:59:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Basic run down on EVAP system on the truck motors the LS1 etc are similar.  
 
 
The evaporative emissions is "ventilation" for the gas tank and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Basic run down on EVAP system on the truck motors the LS1 etc are similar. <br />
<br />
<br />
The evaporative emissions is &quot;ventilation&quot; for the gas tank and burning those fumes in the engine rather than releasing them to the air. So basically there are lines Running form a sealed gas tank to the engine and a charcoal canister used to contain fuel vapors till they can be burned in the intake while the engine is running. Also there is a vent valve used to provide positive pressure to the system to vent the tank. <br />
<br />
The evaporative emission control system checks to make sure there are no leaks in the lines that run from the gas tank to the charcoal canister and up to the engine. It also checks to make sure the gas cap is sealing correctly.<br />
When you fill your car with gas, the vapors in the tank get forced into a canister filled with activated charcoal. Also, on a hot day as the gas heats up and vaporizes, those same vapors push into the canister where they're stored. But the charcoal can only hold so much vapor. At some point it has to be emptied. The emptying process is called &quot;canister purge.&quot; Here's how it works.<br />
<br />
   The computer orders a canister purge by powering open a PURGE solenoid. That opens the vacuum line between the canister and the intake manifold. At the same time, it opens a VENT solenoid. That allows fresh air into the canister. So the engine is literally sucking out the gas vapors and purging the canister with fresh air. The computer has to adapt its fuel strategy to take advantage of all the extra gas vapors coming into the engine.<br />
The computer notices the canister is empty when it detects a leaner condition (all the vapors are used up) and it resumes normal fuel delivery. Then closes the VENT solenoid but leave the PURGE solenoid open. That creates a vacuum throughout the entire fuel storage system. Once the correct vacuum is reached, it closed the PURGE solenoid and waits to see if the vacuum holds. If it doesn't, the system passes the test. If it detects a leak, it sets a code. The EVAP vent solenoid valve controls fresh airflow into the EVAP canister. The valve is normally open. The control module commands the valve ON, closing the valve during some EVAP tests, allowing the system to be tested for leaks.<br />
<br />
Now do you really need the EVAP system no, depends on if your state requres it for emisson's testing. <br />
<br />
It really wouldn't be that hard to install a working EVAP system on a tri-five. Basically install a sealing gas tank.  And install the tank sensor pressure sensor, canister, vent valve and canister purge valve.  <br />
<br />
Attached is the typical truck EVAP system. The highlighted parts are the EVAP system parts.</div>


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	<td><a href="http://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16381&amp;d=1258746500">2008-05-05_183339_evap1.jpg</a> (34.5 KB)</td>
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	<td><a href="http://www.trifive.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16382&amp;d=1258746530">2008-05-05_183311_2008-05-05_182910.jpg</a> (46.7 KB)</td>
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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=65">LS Installation Questions and Answers</category>
			<dc:creator>BO185</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35279</guid>
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			<title>Painting a fan clutch.... OK?</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35278&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:58:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm going to be using a stock GM viscous drive clutch fan, and after looking at mine, it's apparent that it could sure use a paint job. However, I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm going to be using a stock GM viscous drive clutch fan, and after looking at mine, it's apparent that it could sure use a paint job. However, I know these are thermostatically controlled, and was concerned that paint might interfere with the operation, especially the spring on the front. Anyone have any experience with this issue? Better for heat transfer to leave it natural aluminum?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12">Super Stock / Pro Street and Modified Discussion    55-56-57</category>
			<dc:creator>puzzley</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35278</guid>
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			<title>StarCityGene</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35277&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:28:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've just learned that Gene passed away this morning at 5:15. Nothing known about arrangements at this time.  
Rest in peace, my friend.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've just learned that Gene passed away this morning at 5:15. Nothing known about arrangements at this time. <br />
Rest in peace, my friend.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=67">Lost, Fallen or Ill Members</category>
			<dc:creator>supersix</dc:creator>
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			<title>Ballast Resistor on 55</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35276&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:33:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello all: 
 
I am a bit confused. I installed a Pertronix conversion in my distributoir and the instructions from Pertonix says to eliminate the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello all:<br />
<br />
I am a bit confused. I installed a Pertronix conversion in my distributoir and the instructions from Pertonix says to eliminate the Ballast resistor.<br />
<br />
<br />
That's fine, but I have a conversion harness for an Alternator with a internal regulator and there is a tan wire that is supposed to attach to the Ballast resistor. I have eliminated it.????<br />
<br />
I have some old literature indicating I can hookup that tan wire to the accessory connection on the fuse panel inside the car.  <br />
<br />
Need some help here!!!<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance,</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=71">Electrical Questions and Answers</category>
			<dc:creator>Wakes</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35276</guid>
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			<title>The saga with BigShem</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35275&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:14:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just wanted everyone to know that Shem did resolve the issue. I received my bumper center today. Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just wanted everyone to know that Shem did resolve the issue. I received my bumper center today. Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=79">Classifieds section of Trifive , Buy,Sell, Trade, Free Stuff.</category>
			<dc:creator>56onAir</dc:creator>
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			<title>Harmonic balancer stuck</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35274&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:03:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I could use some ideas for getting my harmonic balancer off. I have a puller but it would not budge. Sprayed WD-40 and with tension on the puller I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I could use some ideas for getting my harmonic balancer off. I have a puller but it would not budge. Sprayed WD-40 and with tension on the puller I used a rubber mallet and hit the balancer but still nothing. Finally one of the bolts stripped out. This is on a 56 with a 265 and as far as I know the balancer has never been off. Thanks for any help.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Stock  Chevy Discussion   55-56-57</category>
			<dc:creator>LorenB</dc:creator>
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			<title>LT1 In a 1956 Bel Air Convertible</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35273&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:46:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Looking for any information on this transplant.  I'm currently dealing with the pulleys & brackets on this motor and was wondering if there was any...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Looking for any information on this transplant.  I'm currently dealing with the pulleys &amp; brackets on this motor and was wondering if there was any OEM take-offs that will work.  Kinda on a budjet on this area of the build.  Any help is appreciated.....<br />
<br />
Cecil</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12">Super Stock / Pro Street and Modified Discussion    55-56-57</category>
			<dc:creator>sspracing</dc:creator>
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			<title>Manual Transmission Shift Woes:  Please Help!</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35272&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:43:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm having trouble shifting the gears on my stock 3-on-the-tree in my '57.  It is weather related.  I know the obvious answer is to thin the gear...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm having trouble shifting the gears on my stock 3-on-the-tree in my '57.  It is weather related.  I know the obvious answer is to thin the gear oil, but here is why I believe that may not be the problem in my particular case.<br />
    The shifting pattern on my 3 speed is an &quot;H&quot; pattern as all others are.  If you'll look at the H, I'm going to assume top left is reverse, bottom left is 1st, top right is 2nd, bottom right is 3rd.  I can shift between Reverse and 1st with no problem at all and I can shift between 2nd and 3rd with ease.  The problem is trying to go from the first 2 gears (R and 1st) to the 2nd set of gears (2nd and 3rd).  This is possible, but with some resistance, however, going from the 2nd set of gears back to the first is almost impossible.  If you look at the H, the horizontal line between to two columns is where my I run into resistance when shifting.  <br />
   I live in middle Tennessee and even as mild as our winter has been so far, on some mornings my car is almost undriveable.  I'm certainly not a superman, but I'm not useless either, and sometimes it takes two hands for me to pull the shifter back for first gear.  My fiance is physically incapable of driving  the car (I suppose that might be a plus for some guys).  At times it  feels as though the shifter may literally break off.<br />
   I have not been able to get under the hood and under the car while these shifts are being made, but I believe that the part of my shift which is hard (the horizontal portion of the H) has nothing to do with the internals of the transmission but rather the internals of the shifter column.  Am I correct in this?????<br />
   There are 2 levers on the transmission.  If I remember correctly, I believe one is for 1st and Reverse, the other is for 3rd and 4th.  It seems that if thick gear oil was my problem then going into the gears themselves would be the problem, not the neutral area between them.  Once again, I have no issues with the gears themselves.<br />
   On warm days I have no problems.  Could someone explain what is going on.  When real winter weather sets in I'm afraid I may not even be able to drive the car.<br />
 <br />
 Thanks,<br />
   brandon</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Stock  Chevy Discussion   55-56-57</category>
			<dc:creator>Vetteman61</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[WTB: '55 4 Dr. Wagon]]></title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35271&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:03:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, I sold my beloved '55 Bel-Air Beauville wagon back in '02,thinking it would help my marriage. Stupid move! Well, I'd like to get another one, a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I sold my beloved '55 Bel-Air Beauville wagon back in '02,thinking it would help my marriage. Stupid move! Well, I'd like to get another one, a 210 would be ok. I'm looking for a rust free body,one that needs an absolute minimal  rust repair. My other one was from Van Nuys,Ca and the only patches I installed were under the weather strips on 2 doors.I'd like to find something that clean again. Dents and bad paint are ok with me,as I want a project car anyway. I don't care about the drivetrain,'cause I'll want to put my own in. I'm in the Detroit area,please let me know via e-mail <a href="mailto:pcraik1960@hotmail.com">pcraik1960@hotmail.com</a>. Thanks.<br />
<br />
Pat</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=79">Classifieds section of Trifive , Buy,Sell, Trade, Free Stuff.</category>
			<dc:creator>55Beauville</dc:creator>
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			<title>Quick Time Performance Electric Cutouts</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35270&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:32:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Has anyone had any feedback on their product?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone had any feedback on their product?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28">Hi Performance</category>
			<dc:creator>gr8 pmkn</dc:creator>
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			<title>Cable release</title>
			<link>http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35269&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:17:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Need some ideas for a cable release mod for the trunk latch on my 55. Don't care much for an electric. Considering my frequent contacts w/ "Murphy",...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Need some ideas for a cable release mod for the trunk latch on my 55. Don't care much for an electric. Considering my frequent contacts w/ &quot;Murphy&quot;, I'd get stranded without batt power, and be &quot;SOL&quot;..:D<br />
NE1???</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.trifive.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12">Super Stock / Pro Street and Modified Discussion    55-56-57</category>
			<dc:creator>Old Buzzard</dc:creator>
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