Chevy Tri Five Forum banner

Done collecting parts ,time for gasser

76K views 668 replies 46 participants last post by  blackwidow 
#1 ·
Got a question in regards to my motor mounts ... do I need rubber at all or can I just weld everything tight to frame and mounting pads , don't Want to tear and replace rubber ones if it can be done without. With the understanding of gussets for strength.........only a stoplight drag car for the summer ice cream runs.

Going with the 427 dual quad setup with a 4 speed .
the plan is to get her on the street making noise
Wanted to go 455 Buick but until I weld up the fenderwell headers she staying on the stand
As far as a thread it's hard to juggle build and family plus thread updates so I figured use search as much as I can , and take plenty of progress pics so when the snow flies I can start a build thread and keep up on it.:flag6:
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#4 ·
I used all three solid mounts when I had a scatter shield bell housing. I did not like the feel when driving. It felt like the car had hard solid rubber tires.

Then I went with both solid motor mounts and a stock trans mount for awhile. But I did not like the resonance through the steering wheel. And I still had to use thread locker on lots of bolts.
I now use a solid mount on the drivers side and stock on the passenger side with a stock trans mount. Everything feels normal and don't have to worry about ripping the motor mount.

Don
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the informative replies ,so to start off I'm going to do solid both side mounts and a rubber trans mount and get a feel for things...
Just wanted to see what was common practice then and now

😎I'll be back
 
#640 · (Edited)
If you weld in Solid motor mounts to the frame,, I would think that all the stress is then placed on the Motor Mount to Engine Block bolts. When/if one of those bolts snaps, it's no fun getting the broken stud out.

Are you planning on using this gasser for Street/Strip?, or strictly on the drag strip? You clearly state: "..only a stoplight drag car for the summer ice cream runs.", so it sound's like you are intending to use the car only on the street. That said, you'll likely be very disappointed with the vibration and noise" That ice cream will fall right off that cone!!!

Why not compromise, and use Energy Suspension Polyurethane mounts throughout?
 
#7 ·
------:bowtieb:Hello there, I personally like to use on my 55 and 56 chevys, Moroso solid motor mounts, with a stock oem type rubber transmission mount, so it won't break the trans tail housing!!--- Another advantage to using solid motor mounts, are they limit the rearward movement of the engine and keeps that 650lbs.of engine and transmission weight, trying to run to the the back of the car, stationary, on those super RPM starts!!----:driver:Milton
 
#12 · (Edited)
lost a bunch of images

While uploading from phone to cpu I lost more than half of my early build pictures .....angry is an understatement!
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Auto part Rim

Here is a simple shot of tires

and Vehicle
the 48k 150 body for the build ......its a good story. Car should've never been taken apart. But here we go!
 
#15 ·
Fitting of the push bar and weld out of front
Table Furniture Automotive exterior Vehicle Wood


Locating centerline for axle
Vehicle Beam Auto part


Finding location of rear fixed shackle mounts
Figuring out how to use this degree thingy guess it's important
Auto part Suspension Suspension part Vehicle Automobile repair shop



I don't recommend layouts to be preformed on ceiling these task are only for my Polish Heritage......:sign0020:
 
#18 ·
Good eye ,
yes it is 50$ worth vintage 1954 : all steering arms , stock drums hubs and spindles with new kingpins ,drag link ,a steering box for whatever used leafs ...afraid to bend them so purchased new and re arched 4".
Plus the steering wheel and column with 3/4 shaft so it made easy use for steering u joints to 68 manual box

They went Camaro sub and had no use for this junk......:happy0045:
 
#22 ·
Unless your ladder bar pivot-point is the same as the front eye of the leaf springs, you will bind badly and break. This doesn't happen with coil overs.

You need to make the front of the ladder bar pivot-point like a shackle, so it can move front to back. The amount of movement depends on the amount of up and down travel you expect at the rear end.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Even if your ladder bar pivot points are identical to the spring length, they can still bind and eventually break. The springs tend to lengthen as they compress, so the axle moves rearward. If the ladder bars don't allow the axle to move rearward, the axle will be bound up, and something eventually will have to give.
There are several ways to take care of this issue. You can buy a floating mount for the axle, so it's not clamped solid to the leaf spring. Like these that are sold at Jegs:


Or you can put a short shackle from the heim to the frame mount at the front, to allow the ladder bar to travel back with the axle. The shackle needs to be at about 45 degrees back angle so it can swing back and up as the axle moves back and up. I used this setup on my Falcon, and my shackle is 2" bolt too bolt. Very short, and strong.

Or you can eliminate the springs and go with coilover shocks. This keeps the axle from traveling back, and simply travels in a vertical arc as the Coilovers compress. You would also need to add a panhard bar to keep the axle located left/right. This is what I used on my Austin, and it also works great. Need to be sure the panhard bar is almost dead level, so it doesn't push the axle to one side from a steep angle.

Pinion angle can vary. Whatever it is, it needs to be the same as trans/driveline angle. So if your driveline is at 3 degrees to the trans, then your pinion needs to be the same at ride height. If the trans/driveline is 5 degrees, then pinion needs to be 5 degrees. They need to cancel each other to avoid vibration induced by different angles.
 
#24 ·
Appreciate the options

Ok so I want this to be built in the past , coil overs I looked into and figured they'd look out of place.

My best bet is going to add the shackle, if I don't like the overall drop I can trim my front main mount an inch and not loose anything

Thanks for the insight fellas
This is just the mockup build anyhow need to tear down for paint so we can always change build directions
This is my first GASSER and not my last Fun building so far ,,,, I listen to the 50's jams Totally stress free. Except for little Richard can't take the screaming don't know how ya did it .
 
#26 ·
Yes, coilovers aren't period correct, but usually hard to see. On my Austin you have to lay down under the rear to see them. But I understand wanting it a certain way too!
When I built the ladder bars on my Falcon I did them exactly as you started out. Once I drove it I quickly realized the suspension wasn't moving, and decided to change it. Since I had no easy adjustment on the two rear heims at the axle, I added a hex adjuster joint on the upper tube. I also added the short shackle up front to eliminate the binding. The adjustment at the rear allows me to loosen two jam nuts and turn the adjuster to preload my ladder bars at the strip. If I just had the heim joint I couldn't preload them without dropping the ladder bars and changing the length of one heim's threads.
QS Components has the hex adjusters for $6 ea. 5/8" or $7 ea. 3/4".
http://www.qscomponents.com/collections/linkage-adjusters/products/3-4-16-hex-ladder-bar-adjuster

QS Components is my go to place for heim parts, and rod ends. Great prices and free priority shipping on most items.
 
Top