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Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc

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Old 11-06-2009, 12:08 PM   #1
CJS57
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Default Best tool to cut and elongate wheelcover holes?

What would be the best tool bit or grinder or whatever to elongate the valve stem holes about 1/2" longer on the stainless steel wheel cover? I just have home equipment not machine shop. The valve stems come out of the Danchuk repro wheels at the wrong angle. That is why I need to do this.
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Old 11-06-2009, 12:21 PM   #2
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Dremel tool? I bought one at home depot that came in a plastic tool carry case with every attachment you could think of for $19.99 on sale.

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Old 11-06-2009, 01:26 PM   #3
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I have 2 of them. Guess I can try it. They seem so under powered to me for anything more than jewelry. Any one else got an idea?
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:40 PM   #4
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I think I'd consider a chassis punch. Then some hand work to clean it up.

The problem you're going to have with a dremel or other high speed grinder is that if the tool chatters, you'll make a mess of the wheel cover, break the bit, and/or hurt yourself. If you do consider the high speed grinder, use a stone or some other bit that is smooth. Still no guarantee on the chatter, but better.

Been there, done that on the chatter. Just never on a wheel cover.
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Old 11-06-2009, 02:07 PM   #5
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I think Rick is on track. I enclosed a pic of a tool that would work, this one might be a little large, but it's a fine tooth cutting tool, but chattering could be an issue. The higher the speed the less chatter. I recomend trying on an old hubcap first to make sure you've got the hang of it. Whatever you use.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:01 PM   #6
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I got to thinking about this and before you cut the caps, check out angle valve stems. They make them in 45 and 90 degree angles, they're cheap and might be alot better than cutting up nice hubcaps.
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:00 PM   #7
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If you decide to try the Dremel or die grinder tool, be sure to hold down the cap SECURELY. Have a helper or clamp it some way so it won't move.
Then go slowly. It will grab if you're not very careful (and sometimes if you are). When it does it will whip the cover out of your hand and chew up the hole. I would suggest a right angled die grinder with a 1/8 dia tool.
The closer the diameter of the tool is to the diameter of the hole the more likely it will grab on you.
I don't know if these would get to where you're trying to get to, but you could use something like this hand punch. They come with different size punches and work very well.

If the angled valve stems will get you there, that would be the best thing to do.
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:06 AM   #8
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Thanks! I have already research angled valve stems but they present their own set of problems. If someone is actually using them now, I would be interested in hearing the brand and how that looks and works. ---------------------- I like that blue "hand punch" that is pictured. Maybe a local sheet metal shop could punch a hole next to the original hole, then I could just clean up the edges by hand.---------------Rick, what is a chassis punch? Can I rent one? ------------Maybe EDM, but that may be expensive.
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1955 Belair Convt
1956 210 2dr Sdn
1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:36 AM   #9
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A chassis punch is a simple punch and die, just two round parts that bolt together, one from each side - then you tighten the bolt to punch the hole.

Normally you'd drill a pilot hole for the bolt. Here you'd already have a hole. What I was thinking was that you could get a punch the same size as the original valve stem hole. Then use the chassis punch to elongate the hole by using it on one side of the hole. What you'd then have would be a "figure 8" hole that you'd want to trim into an oval shape.

What I don't know is whether the punch would try to slide off the partial hole being punched as you tried to tighten the bolt.

"Chassis punch" is short for radio chassis punch, a tool used in the old days to punch holes in a radio chassis for the vacuum tubes. They are still widely used in sheet metal fab and by electricians to punch holes in junction boxes, etc.

They are also called Greenlee punches - Greenlee is the long time manufacturer and distributor of them.
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:14 AM   #10
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They sound like Q-max cutters. Like I used to use to cut fender holes for radio aerials, back in the day!!

They do not like side loads.

I used them alot in a research job I had for 13 years and the only real decent hole was from a pilot, for the bolt, to size. Tried to do half a hole on the Chevy and I gave up. I got in with a 4" grinder and loads of patience! Then finished off with a decent file.
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