Tubular a-arm and offset shaft questions

[55chevy292]

I bought a set of tubular a-arms for my 55 and assembled them with my stock cross shafts and new bushings. Once i got ready to assemble the front end, the upper control arm hit near the front of where you put it on. Where i got them from recommended grinding the area. There is no way to grind it enough for them to clear.

I have now purchased a set of offset a-arm shaft to use with my stock control arms because i am running the 500 steering box. (I understood that they correct the tracking issues)
Would the offset shaft correct the issue of the tubular control arms???

[acardon]

I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong. I thought the upper cross shaft helped camber by moving the ball joint out and the control arm helped caster by moving the ball joint to the rear. http://www.trifive.com/garage/57%20C...Manual/3-3.gif

[Rick_L]

Probably not. Whose arms do you have? Any photos?

[55chevy292]

I dont know exactly who makes the a-arms. I bought them from Lee Cape who owns Double Nickle out of Whitehall,Ga. He exclusively sells tri-five stuff. Everything i buy for my 55 comes from him and this is the first time i have ever had problems with anything.

I dont have pics of the a-arm on the car. Sorry





On the 2nd picture it would hit near the bushing on the front side(left).

[Rick_L]

acardon, you are correct about the way the shafts and arms are made. But if you have the ability to get more camber, you can get more caster too.

292, does the tube on the control arm hit the bracket that the control arm shaft bolts too, or is it something else? If it's hitting that bracket, I understand not grinding on it until there's a hole in it. But what about giving the interfering part of the bracket a serious thump with a BFH? Or even heating it up and then hammering on the interfering area?

The control arms I have are similar to yours but not the same. They have the ends of the tubes pinched into an oval shape where they weld to the bushing sleeves. They have lots of clearance everywhere.

I woudn't recommend grinding on the tube part of the control arm, but cutting it for clearance and then welding a flat piece in the hole (making that area a D shape) might also be an option.

[jpblues]

what are you gonna do with your original a frames now?

[55chevy292]

I am thinking about taking and running offset shafts in my stock control arms since i am running a 500 series box.
and then taking my tubular control arms and getting my money back

[JasonR]

Originally Posted by jpblues

what are you gonna do with your original a frames now?

I'm not going to re-use my stock uppers...you need them?

I had the same issue on my passenger side with Heidt's uppers, the driver side fit fine. I think when they pressed the bushings in they bent the a-arm. Do both of yours rub or just one? I sent the one back and waiting on the new one. Mine wouldnt even bolt up it was hitting so bad.

[Old Buzzard]

Originally Posted by 55chevy292

I am thinking about taking and running offset shafts in my stock control arms since i am running a 500 series box.
and then taking my tubular control arms and getting my money back

I don't think the offset shafts will do anything concerning the use of a 500 box. What is it you are trying to do??
As for the return at Cape's place ??
BTW, my Fatman a arms clear the mounts, just fine. They are the design that moves out, and back, for more + caster.
I don't like the location of the bump stop pad, so I'll be "modifying" that.

[557B210]

292....This statement caught my attention in your last post:

"I am thinking about taking and running offset shafts in my stock control arms since i am running a 500 series box."

I have installed the 500 box as well....Do I need to put in offset shafts in my control arms? If so, for what reason?