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#1 |
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Senior Member 1 Gold Star
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Aaron,
I'm installing a powersteering conversion using a cpp500 box, and the cpp shortened non tilt stock column with auto transmission column shift. When every thing is installed the end of the column butts up against the top of the rag joint and I even cut slots in the firewall bracket plate to clear the screw heads on the end of the column so the column is recessed back as far as possible. This makes it impossible for the shifter tube to move out the bottom end of the column when you pull back on the shifter handle. I bought the 500 box a while back when cpp had special sale that included the rag joint. Is it possible there is a shorter over all length rag joint ? the one supplied is 2.77" overall length Thanks, Robert |
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#2 |
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Senior Member 1 Silver Star
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I know exactly what you are dealing with. I have been installing mine the past couple of days. The column almost has to be pulled up in the firewall. I pulled mine up about another 1/8" and cut notches in the plate that goes inside the firewall. I ended up notching the plate more than shown in the picture. I made a little box to cover the notches in the plate. I also ground off about 1/16" to 1/8" off of the rag joint. A 1/4" shorter rag joint would sure make it a lot easier. I finally have my column in and shifting well. I can take a pic of it if you want.
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56-210 2 dr sedan Mark |
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#3 |
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Senior Member 1 Silver Star
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You can see where the shift tube rubs the rag joint when it extends out.
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56-210 2 dr sedan Mark |
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#4 |
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Senior Member 1 Gold Star
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Ive notched the plate similar to the way you did yours, I just got another rag joint my brother had laying around from a 80 malibu its nearly 1/4" shorter
and I could probably grind another 1/8" off the nose . the other thing im pondering is to remove the socket from the rag joint and just weld a flat piece to the end of the 3/4 " shaft and drill 2 holes in it and bolt it to the rag joint in place of the part with the socket that you slide the shaft end in to it. Regards, Robert |
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#5 |
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Senior Member 3 Gold Stars
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that the folks that "design" these items fail to do a real test fit, B4 they start selling them.
I had the same problems w/ the unit I got from Dbl Nickle. There's NO WAY you can shorten the column, pull the screws nearly inside the opening, then expect a mt installed flush to the floor to clear. Not only was mine not bent correctly, it was flush to the floor, w/ the top side bolt sticking thru the firewall hole. The reason for the weld between the holes: The holes weren't even CLOSE to being spaced correctly. [The floor is the original floor] Here's a pic of what I did to mine. ![]()
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Chuck Injector inspector. 55 210 sedan/ LQ9 tyrfryer..:evilgrin0002: Hotrodding and dragracing since 1955.:eek: USAF 1960-1964 Last edited by Old Buzzard; 01-02-2010 at 08:57 AM.. |
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#6 |
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Trifive Leaders Club ![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Posts: 31,081
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Fantastic job Hoss.........
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GO VOLS COWBOY |
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#7 | |
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Senior Member 2 Gold Stars
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 2,476
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Quote:
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remember: bolt-on, doesn't universal, isn't reproduction, made where? |
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#8 |
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Senior Member 2 Gold Stars
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 2,476
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After all the things i've read about power steering installs, I'm going to just figure nothing fits and whatever parts I use are going to have to be "made to fit".
'Cause, universal / isn't, custom made for / is not for what YOU are working on, and bolt on / doesn't.
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remember: bolt-on, doesn't universal, isn't reproduction, made where? |
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#9 |
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Senior Member 1 Blue Star
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Gary can I ever relate to your comment since I started my project this past week...
Gary wrote: "After all the things i've read about power steering installs, I'm going to just figure nothing fits and whatever parts I use are going to have to be "made to fit". 'Cause, universal / isn't, custom made for / is not for what YOU are working on, and bolt on / doesn't. " Doug |
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#10 |
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Senior Member 3 Gold Stars
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"the other thing im pondering is to remove the socket from the rag joint and just weld a flat piece to the end of the 3/4 " shaft and drill 2 holes in it and bolt it to the rag joint in place of the part with the socket that you slide the shaft end in to it."
My "kit" came. The "kit" included the shaft w/ the piece that bolts to the rag j, already welded on. I guess the "designer" got that part right, anyway. ![]() Here's a pic or the "kit" as received. Chopping it all off, and using a Borgeson joint, looks better by the minute! [We did that on the 500 install on my bud's 60 Impy.] ![]()
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Chuck Injector inspector. 55 210 sedan/ LQ9 tyrfryer..:evilgrin0002: Hotrodding and dragracing since 1955.:eek: USAF 1960-1964 Last edited by Old Buzzard; 01-03-2010 at 09:18 AM.. |
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