Body Bracing

[Cuzz]

If (when?) I cut the floorpan out, where do I need to brace the body so it doesn't bend, warp, snap or otherwise get distorted? And, should I do the floor first or do the outer and inner rockers first? Or are they (Floor and rockers) done together?

Steve.
P.S. Is there a pictoral tutorial (Step by Step) of how and where to cut the floorpan out? i.e-Where do I make the cuts? I have been to 57rustbuckets.com but that doesn't really show me where to cut! Thanks for all the help!
PPS. This is a '57 4dr 210

[ETriggs]

If you cut them out with the body still on the frame, there shouldn't be any body flex. But if you want to brace, I would make an "X" on the diagonals from front door to opposite rear door.
Eldon

Oh... as for the cutting, I wouldn't cut until I had the replacement stuff in hand. That way you can lay the new stuff in and make sure that you have enough new to replace the old. You can just trace the outline using the new as a template.

Oh... another thing. I have always been told to do the rockers first to maintain rigidity then replace the pans.

[fiftyfivegasser]

Scarey time before the first cut huh?..but just dive in-it's fun

I am in the process of doing the same tear out/replacements.

The most important first steps is to work one side at a time, removing the door from the selected side, marking the outer rocker end (front) location and leveling the car. Place a level on the inner rocker and if not level, jack up the car (front or back) and place blocks under the tires (both sides or as needed). This assures you of a proper installation of the new rockers as "level' is your front to rear reference.

Depending on what you are cutting with (torch or sawsall), premark the topside with chalk or sharpie the vicinity where any braces, electrical, fuel/brake lines, etc. so they're not accidenially cut.

Have a good or several spot weld removal bits or 3/8 standard ready. You will be drilling out "thousands..upon thousands..upon thousands..oh sorry, got carried away of spot welds from pan braces and rrocker/kick panel metal.

I cut only one side of the floor out to the center of the hump. This keeps everything braced. Unless you are having to replace the entire "long brace", you can do everthing needed on one side, clamp or screw in place and move on to the other side. Reinstall the door on the repaired side, check for alignment and adjust before moving to the next side.

You should end up with rockers in place, brace ends or braces in place and no floor pan. Lay the pans in, mark the underside for brace locations, remove, drill marked brace points for plug welding. Check alignment of floor to rockers and other surfaces...if okay, remove again and start welding rockers, brace ends or anything that will be hid when pans are installed. Finish, install pans and weld in place.

Sounds easy, but actually the whole process is a pain in the butt!!!!

[joe]

hey mike
where did you order your rockers and floor pans from
how was the quality
i need to order some metal for my 55
thanks joe

[fiftyfivegasser]

I compared prices and availability with most suppliers and found that a local guy had the best. He sells new tri-five parts, has some used parts and complete cars.

Contact Frank at 1888 237-8304 or 1 336 567-0371. Tell him Mike from New Bern referred you and you are looking for "good prices". The web site is www.hamlettschevy.com/catalog.

As far as quality, I have had no problems. We all know that remanufactured parts (no matter who supplies them) will probably need some tweaking. All the rocker panels, braces and pans that I have gotten fit fine with no modifications (so far).

Everything I've needed, he has in stock. Large warehouse.

Good luck.

[Chevynut]

Personally I don't think you need to brace the body on a sedan or wagon, because there's enough structure there that it will stay in alignment. I didn't brace the body on my Nomad, and everything worked out fine. I replaceed the floor from toe boards to tailgate, and inner and outer rockers.

Do it on the frame, and bolt the braces to it before fitting the floors. I did the floors first, then the inner rockers, then the outer rockers. If you try it the other way around, there's nothing to weld the inner rockers to since the old floor sheetmetal is still there.

Leave the doors on to check your alignment as you work.

There are some pics in my album link below.

[prostreet]

Hi Cuz
These are all great tips. If you look at Owe's photo's there are some great shots as he was replacing sheet metal.
As always it never hurts to add some bracing even in a sedan. Bracing assures you have that much less movement as you remove and replace your sheet metal. I would look at as many photo's that our TriFive guys here have posted. As Chevynut mentioned having the doors in place are a great guide as you work for constant checking of fitment. If however they get in the way you can prior to cutting , brace the door area so you can remove them when you want a little more room to move around.

[Cuzz]

I agree with you Steve, all these posts have been excellent as usual. I guess being cautious can sometimes be a blessing and other times be a curse. Take now, I'm not sure of what I'm doing so I'm being over-cautious, which can lead to in-action. i can't do any cutting until I order the half floor pans from somebody, but I've made up my mind I'm gonna try!!! If I goof it up, does any body have an extra room for rent????? My wife will disown me

As usual thanks for all the good advice!!
Steve

[Belairmark]

Yeah, I've got a spare room here mate!! At least for the summer!!!!

[Cuzz]

Anywhere near Coggeshall, Eng.?