Vintage Air heater hose valve observation

[roger1]

I hooked mine up directly to the battery today just so I could start the engine and make sure all of the air is out of my cooling system and I wanted to have circulation through the heater core. (I don't have the VA harness hooked up yet. But I know from the schematic that it hooks up to a standard relay so there isn't a reduced voltage or duty cycle sent to this valve.)

Before starting my cool engine, I hooked up the wires and left it for a minute.

This solenoid gets hot! Too hot to keep a finger on it.

It really surprises me that this solenoid would draw that much current to do that. It doesn't seem right to me.

Comments?

[acardon]

Roger, the relay is controlled by the microprocessor, so it may only stay picked for a second. If it is a solenoid, it won't take long to open or close.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by acardon

Roger, the relay is controlled by the microprocessor, so it may only stay picked for a second. If it is a solenoid, it won't take long to open or close.

Don, I believe this valve is an "all on" or "all off" design and the heat control on the dash controls a servo on the unit that moves a door to regulate heat.
So, if the heater is turned on, the relay is fired.

[acardon]

If the solenoid is heating up from electrical current after a minute, I don't see how it could last long, either. It's not heating from the water?

[roger1]

Originally Posted by acardon

If the solenoid is heating up from electrical current after a minute, I don't see how it could last long, either. It's not heating from the water?

I hadn't even started the engine yet. So, no. But, like I said, in about a minute of being fired, it's too hot to keep your fingers on it. I tried it again reversing the polarity. But, it didn't make any difference.

I was going to hook up my little meter on it but it will only measure up to 200 mA.
So, I did a little trial and error with some fuses. With a 2 amp fuse, the fuse gets real hot but didn't blow it. A 5 amp fuse didn't seem to get hot. So, I'd say it's probably a 3 - 4 amp draw.

[cruzer55]

I installed a Vintage Air Gen IV Sure-fit system in my '55 this summer. The water control valve also gets too hot to touch. Is this a common problem with this valve? Has anyone requested info about this from V. A. tech assistance? If I removed the valve and replaced it with a manual ball valve would it cause any problems with the electrical circuits in the system?

[acardon]

Originally Posted by cruzer55

I installed a Vintage Air Gen IV Sure-fit system in my '55 this summer. The water control valve also gets too hot to touch. Is this a common problem with this valve? Has anyone requested info about this from V. A. tech assistance? If I removed the valve and replaced it with a manual ball valve would it cause any problems with the electrical circuits in the system?

No, it won't hurt anything to disconnect it. Like Roger said, it it powered through a relay and is either on or off. The electronics control the relay. But, I would call Vintage about it. It doesn't draw much current, so it shouldn't get too hot. ???

[roger1]

Originally Posted by acardon

No, it won't hurt anything to disconnect it. Like Roger said, it it powered through a relay and is either on or off. The electronics control the relay. But, I would call Vintage about it. It doesn't draw much current, so it shouldn't get too hot. ???

Agree. I can't see how it could hurt anything to not use the electric valve and go manual.

I'm now guessing that my observation is no fluke and this is just they way the valves are designed.

I got a run around trying to get info from VA tech support about the cut-in/out pressures on the Trinary switch. I assumed I would be wasting my time on this issue as well.

I really don't see this issue causing problems. It just seems inefficient for it to draw that high of a current for it's purpose. Like I said earlier, after my crude test, I'm estimating that it draws 3 or 4 amps. That's about as much current as one low beam headlight.

It this valve doesn't last, I'll probably put in a ball valve and operate it manually.

[Jim Cimarolli]

I had the same apprehension about that valve when I installed my VA system. They assured me it would be OK, and I have never had an issue with it. Put 5000 miles on the car since I installed the system.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by Old Buzzard

If it's hooked up, and the key is on, it gets hot.

Not unless the heater is turned on. The valve is normally closed.