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Need HELP with headers on a budget....Thanks!

3K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Jims56 
#1 ·
I have an all original 396/402 from a 1971 Chevelle with iron heads and iron intake in my 1957 Chevy 210 5 door wagon with the following configuration:

1. Speedway front engine mounts using the stock 6 cylinder locations.

2. Muncie M20 is bellhousing mounted -- NO tail cross member. Floor shift. Original clutch linkage is in use with Muncie.

3. Power steering is CPP 500. Steering column shift link arm has been removed and column was shortened for the CPP 500.

4. Firewall has been adjusted for heads and distributor.

5. There is 8.5 inches of ground clearance under my front chassi cross member -- lowest point under car. There use to be "under frame" full lenght headers on my small block in this car and I never hit speed bumps.

I do not want to remove my bellhousing frame horn mounts, and do not want to move my engine forward if it can be avoided. Its in, it fits, and I just need headers to do the same.

Headers can be shorties, huggers, mid or full length under frame and it makes no difference to me -- I just need something that fits and works.

On a budget -- wish I could call "EW" and throw down a $880 to a $1000 -- but can't. Someone has to have found something that works on a budget with a big block? I have read threads for weeks and learned that every build is different and not everything works for everyone.

Anything you can advise me would be welcomed. My build is taking place right now and I can't turn the key without an exhaust system.

Thanks in advance,

Brian and Sons
 

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#2 ·
Update

Sanderson got back to me and said their BB1 block huggers will fit.

Has anyone installed a set on their Big block with a CPP 500?

Looks to be in the $300 to $350 price range and fits our budget.

Thanks, Brian
 

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#4 ·
Carl -- my boys looked through your garage online and saw pictures of your cars. They want to know when we are going to get our second Tri-Five. I told them as soon as we get this one completed!

Then they saw you are just down the road about an hour and a half and they wanted to know if you attend shows?
 
#10 ·
Block huggers are less than $200, I can't guarantee they'll work, but might be worth looking into...
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garag...ock-Hugger-Tight-Fit-Headers-Plain,75163.html

Rodders and racers are known for wedging big engines into small spaces, so these big-block Chevy tight-fit headers are designed for applications where space is limited. The shorty headers offer great flow in a compact package and will fit where many other block hugger headers won’t.


Fits round-port cylinder heads
Compact design fits a wide variety of applications
Made from 16-gauge tubing
1-3/4” primary tube diameter
2-1/2” collector diameter
Can be used with most oil filter systems and transmission/starter combinations
Will not fit '55-'57 Chevy cars, Camaros, or other modern vehicles which have a crossmember below the engine's center two exhaust ports
Fits standard deck big blocks only
Header Dimensions (GIF)
 
#9 · (Edited)
Update:

Okay, so I didn't want to leave a fellow Tri-Fiver hanging if this thread came up in a search and didn't have an answer.

The Sanderson BB1 block huggers fit like a glove on my 402 with CPP500 steering and the motor mounted in the front with Speedway front motor mounts.

The trick was that #5 tube was too tight on the CPP500 steering box and I didn't dipple it, rather I had to slightly flatten the leading portion of the tube right at the steering box. Think of a round pipe with just a slightly flatten side -- but not much. Worked it flat with a body hammer.

The collectors hit PERFECT and a full size Delco-Remy starter works, but I did change the starter out after the fact for a compact 4.1 geared starter and that goes in and out now without removing the headers. A full size starter will not go in and out without removing the header on the passenger side.

Both headers installed from the bottom. The driver's sided needed to have the clutch rod linkage removed. The Passenger sided needed to have the oil dip stick removed. Getting the dip stick back down between the header and the block was a PITA, but we got it. The dip stick trick was to grind the bottom of the dip stick tube making a 30 degree "slash" cut so it no longer had a blunt end. The slash cut we ground on the end of the tube allowed it to "self locate" in the receiving port on the oil pan. Having a blunt end made it hang up on the inside lip of the receiving pan port. Trust me and grind the slash cut and you will be thankful you did it. In doing so, don't take total length off the dip stick tude and your oil readings will remain correct.

I bought the BB1 huggers raw and painted them myself. Sanderson does not use gaskets. High temp BLACK or COPPER Permatex is used to put 1/8 inch beads around each port THE NIGHT BEFORE! Takes 14 hours to set up, so plan accordingly -- cause I didn't plan it right. Like a dummy I didn't read the directions until I was ready to install them. Had I done so I would have had the time to pre-heat the headers in the oven at 200 degrees before applying the HTP paint. They came out nice, but had I been smart enough to read the directions as soon as I got them I would have had them painted and prepped with Permatex days before I needed to install them and not the loss of a day due to the 14 hour cure time the Permatex needs before it's set up. I thought it was to cure between the header and the head, not so. The bead goes on the header, sets up totally, then you assemble, squashing the already sett-up bead against the head for the seal.

In fact read the directions as soon as you get the headers so you totally understand the lead time involved with prepping the headers before installation. The Permatex is also used to seal the collectors -- bead sets up on one side, not wet between the two. The more time you take making a uniformed bead the better the seal will be. So take your time. I taped off the area the beads were going on before I painted the headers. Also, its not needed, but I cleaned the headers, dry fitted them BEFORE paint and Permatex. Once they fit correctly around my CPP500 I actually started the car and brought them up to full temp to burn off the manufacturing oils that I missed during the cleaning. There is no way to clean inside each tube, but the burn in worked well. During paint I painted both inside and out -- FOGGED each tube with paint to keep them from rusting from the inside out. Don't run it so long that you get carbon dust in the headers -- just bring them up to temp and you are sure to have no oils left in the tubes from manufacturing.

The local muffler shop, "Larry the muffler man", did a great job with 2 1/2 inch pipe and Flowmasters. The exhaust is now the lowest point on the car as the bend required to get to the collector has a radius that comes about 3/4 inch lower than the front cross member.

I left my tranny frame horn mounts in place and the 2 1/2 inch pipes tuck nicely through the horns. All in all it is a great product from Sanderson and works with the CPP500 just like they said it would. If you have the factory manual steering box I am sure they will fit nicely without having to flatten #5 tube as the CPP500 I have installed is a thicker unit in the area of the #5 tube.

Good luck to all with their BB installs!!!!!!!!!
 
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