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My ebay disk brake kit install.

7K views 33 replies 19 participants last post by  klauderdale@kc.rr.com 
#1 ·
#2 ·
Congrats, those look like McGaughy's drop spindles, which are the ones I installed on mine. What size booster is that, looks like a 7"? Someone will correct me if I am wrong but you will probably have to grind some off of the wheel stop. I did on mine. I don't remember the technical name for it but it is were the spindle contacts the bracket when turning left or right. Keep us informed on your progress.
Josh
 
#7 ·
A couple months ago I bought the same kit minus the dropped spindles from the same guy. I haven't got around to installing it yet but everything looks good.
 
#9 ·
Black56,
Did you come across any "issues" that we need to watch out for? My instructions say something about having to drill the stock spindle cotter pin hole in a different location, that bugged me a little.
Appreciate any tips you might have.
 
#13 · (Edited)
For me, the hardest part was getting the bolt loose that holds the original wheel cylinder to the backing plate. It screws into the spindle. The bolt head is pretty thin, & easy to round off. :mad: You need to use a 1" six point deep socket on this. The deep socket will fit over the pin that the springs hook to.
If you're replacing the spindles, this isn't an issue. Just thought I'd mention it.
 
#16 ·
pics

No pictures of the actuall install, I'm still working on them, but here is the latest!



I just powdercoated these this weekend! This is eastwoods mirror red powdercoat.

I took and washed these quite a few times, there was a very good rust inhibitor on these, and it didn't want to come off easy. (which is a very good thing!)

Once I got them cleaned off with grease lightning, I soaked them in a hot/warm water and dawn dish detergent solution for a little while.

Then, I rinsed them off with water, then blew them dry with compressed air.

Then, I put a coat of ospho on them, let them dry, put them in my oven at 400* for about 10 minutes to outgas (dry) them off.

Once I took them out, I rubbed them with steel wool to get any extra ospho off of them, taped off any surface that I didn't want powder on, then powdercoated them.

put them in the oven, 20 minutes later, whala!
 
#18 · (Edited)
I bought the exact same kit from the same seller but wth the Chrome upgrades. I am waiting for it to warm up a little before I start on this project. It is still cold up hear in Montana and will not be above 50 any time soon. If I am planning on changing my transmission this spring also, would you guys recommend pulling the motor and tranny before putting this kit in?

For got to mention that I am putting in a new wiring harness from EZ2Wire at the same time.
 
#19 ·
BOLTS

While installing this kit, I found out that there were no bolts that bolted the bracket that the tie rod end connects to and the spindle.

I'll get a picture of this soon, I lost my camera.

Here's the part numbers from the local NAPA...

301-679B X 2 of these bolts (1/4 longer than the next bolt) 7/16" bolt, standard thread
301-678B X 2 of these bolts
8076-032B X 4 of these lockwashers
8070-031B X 4 of these flat washers

the stock bolts won't work, cause they used to go through the drum backing plate and bolt with a nut on the inside of the drum. These won't work due to the nut would hit the rotor and the way the spindle is made.

I put locktight on the bolts, ran them down to 40ft lbs, and let them ride!

I'm going slow, but I'll pics up soon!

D Moss
 
#22 ·
progress

I don't know about the offset, I didn't measure before or after.

As before, I'm dragging tail on the 57, seems as if there's always something else that needs to be done.

Here's a pic of the driver side together,



It's hard to see, but the bracket that the tie rod attaches to was powdercoated in ultimate chrome from powder by the pound. The flash made the red look a lot like pink, but I assure it is deep red!

Here's a better pic of the chrome on my spare hood hindges,



By no means is this chrome, but it does have a good look to it. The closer an object gets to it, the more reflective it gets. You can see the pool ball pretty good here, but if you move it away a little bit, it gets blurry quick. It wouldn't be ideal on a bumper, unless you wanted a silver with a little mirror to it.
 
#25 ·
couple of mods

I ran into a problem with the rubber lines and where they attach to the frame.

The metal part of the line has a hex shaped top that was bigger than the hole on the frame, so I took my air powered cutting tool, and ground down the points of the hex, and it fit like a glove.





The only other thing that I had problems with was the pre-bent lines, but the lines were great. They were interfearing with the motor mounts that I had made, so it should work flawless with stock mounts.

At the beggining, I measured from the bottom of the bumper to the floor, 10". In the end, I had 8"!



Overall, I'd give this kit a 10! I called them a few times, got great customer service everytime, and actually got to talk to a human instead of an automated system.

I'd def buy this kit again.
 
#27 ·
Hey, I bought that same kit from them, and am working on getting it in (its raining today). I also purchased the tubular control arms w/ front end rebuild kit. Appearently there was a mixup when my parts got shipped and the rebuild kit wasnt in there. I sent them an email and they said sorry for the delay due to their side and 2 days later the parts were sittin in my mailroom. I highly recommend this seller. Great people to work with....
 
#29 ·
another tid bit

Ok, I didn't mention that on the rod that comes out of the booster towards the brake pedal, it was too long for my application.

I took and ran a nut down the threads, then used my die grinder to cut the threaded rod to the length that I had determinded was correct.

After cutting, I took the nut back off to correct the threads at the end of the rod, and installed the booster.

Hooked the rod to the brake pedal, and everything was A OK!

Just a heads up.
 
#30 ·
Ok, I didn't mention that on the rod that comes out of the booster towards the brake pedal, it was too long for my application.

I took and ran a nut down the threads, then used my die grinder to cut the threaded rod to the length that I had determinded was correct.

After cutting, I took the nut back off to correct the threads at the end of the rod, and installed the booster.

Hooked the rod to the brake pedal, and everything was A OK!

Just a heads up.
Thanks for this information, hopefully starting on mine before too long, it's getting into the 40's during the day now:rolleyes:
 
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