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Leaded Body Joints

5K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  acardon 
#1 ·
I've been told that you should remove the lead from body joints. (For example, see attached photo). Then, the joint seam should be welded solid. Also, weld in a strip of sheet metal to fill the joint.

Anybody have an opinion good or bad?
 

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#2 · (Edited)
For years I have just welded the whole recess with my mig welder. I take my time and work on multiple joints at a time to control the heat. I then grind it down and flow 2 part epoxy over the area. JB Weld works very well. Just like it was body filler. I like epoxy because it will self level and leave a nice finished area. I then sand after it has cured. I then go directly to a urethane primer as I block the car.

I don't like the idea of laying another sheet of metal over this, this will create a place for moisture to get trapped, and just like over lap joints, can cause rust formation.

Mikey
 
#9 ·
The only joint that I would automatically remove the factory lead is at the rocker panel. Otherwise as already said, check the surrounding areas for rust or other problems. The biggest reason for problems with painting over factory leaded joints is contamination. If you sand lead with Aluminum Oxide sand paper, you will have problems later on---lead and aluminum are dissimilar metals and will cause a reaction.
 
#12 ·
Several years ago, I was working on my '57 trying to get rid of an oil can type issue. While heating an area, all of a sudden I saw some silver type liquid product run down the quarter panel. WTH was that. I never realized that lead was used in some joints. Guess I really never thought about it. So after leading a joint, how would you finish it?? Has bondo type products been around for a long time. I agree with what has been said; leading is a lost talent/art, Carmine.
 
#13 · (Edited)
So after leading a joint, how would you finish it?? Has bondo type products been around for a long time. I agree with what has been said; leading is a lost talent/art, Carmine.
A wood paddle is used to smooth it out, and after it cools a file is used to finish it. Works very good on panel edges and seams. It can be sanded with certain types of sand paper, but a file is usually good enough.
 

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#14 ·
interesting thread. I have a 55 1st series that both cowl panels are bad on. I've ordered the replacement panels. I plan on replacing these. I've been told that the joint at top is leaded. should I unmask the lead and see if there is rust. or patch around it?

this will be my first ever attempt at a full frame off restoration and while waiting for my panels to arrive have been debating this. to do the complete cowl panel is going to be a lot of work but have never messed with lead.. I will have the full panel but I'm not above just sectioning part of it. I have to replace the inner panel and the center between the inner and outer cowl.

what makes the best sense to do? The joint appears to be very good. what would you guys do?
 
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