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Vaulting my Truss flat ceiling

7K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  bler57 
#1 ·
Has anyone done this modification? I plan on running 2x8” rafters along both sides of the 2x4 against the roof and then using a collar tie on the upper portion of the rafter. I will notch the end resting on the wall and butt the upper ends together using a 1/2” plywood piece, glued and screwed on the upper ends. I am only modifying 3 of the trusses in order to raise the car on the lift. Does this sound reasonable?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Make sure you do the mods/reinforcements to the trusses BEFORE you cut out the ceiling joist portion for those three, and I think I understood that you were 'tying' the three cut/reinforced ones into the adjacent trusses on each side of the ones you plan to cut - and that's a good idea you should do!
 
#3 ·
SoCal, I guess snow load isn't a worry. With your plans keep in mind that it will want to push outwards on the walls. Picturing that force is the main thing you want to prevent. You may have those big staple plates in the way, but I'd try to run a light weight center beam of sorts the length of the cut plus 2 more on each side. Or if those plates in the way 1 2x6 or even 2x4 on each side of the peak. Here's a trick. Buy lumber that is dry and warped, then attach each end first, with the warp pushing upwards in the middle. Use a jack if needed, then attach it in the middle ones.
Actually the house I grew up in built in the 50's had a large vaulted ceiling in the large living room. At each end where the vault stopped, up in the attic it had cables to help keep it from spreading the walls. They can do much more than reinforcing the other trusses since you can tighten them with a turnbuckle to give them preload. Tighten them til they twang like a banjo.
 
#4 · (Edited)
You don't need the 2x8's. Just reshape your trusses before you cut anything out as mentioned. 2x4's and truss plates or plywood and glue and screws. To elaborate, put 2x4's along side of the existing trusses in the shape of the vault. Then cut the existing truss out and add 2x4's in the truss plane.


It's amazing how strong a truss is. I built my house using 44' pre-built 2x4 trusses with a 7-12 pitch roof. The front half of the truss was vaulted as in the "vault" picture. When I set the trusses on the walls, I found out the concrete under the center wall was 3/4" inch higher then the outside walls. I though I would just fasten one end to the top plate and pull the end of the truss down with a clamp. It pulled the opposite end of the 44' truss off the top plate. I ended up notching the center wall for the truss.
 
#5 ·
Thank you for the replies. I think I am on the right track and I appreciate the pictures in you discussion acardon. Good to know I don’t have to use the 2x8. It’s a 13’ run for the rafter and the 2x8’s would be a hassle. I will take some measurements and see if I could make a scissors truss work. Thanks again for the help. I’ll try and post some pics of progress.
 
#6 ·
It's going to be difficult to say the least to *rebuild* the trusses in place. Those metal plates give amazing strength but they normally put them in with a press. I've tried hammering them in without any luck. With whatever you do, just always picture it as the top (ridge) pushing down and the ends are trying to push the walls outward. That may sound a little extreme, but it's an easy way of looking at it and understanding what you need to do to prevent any problems.
 
#11 ·
I raised the car with no issues and plenty of space. Heck, I can lift my truck with no issues. Very happy with the results. Now to get the garage door reconfigured. I am unable to post pictures because I am member of photobucket and they want money now to upload photos. I haven’t decided on a photo hosting website yet. It seems they all want access to all of my photos.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Really! Nice! When did that happen? I guess I missed it! Can you post from an iPhone or iPad?

Whoohoo. Looks like it worked. My ceiling is 9 ft high. Garage door is 8 ft. Distance from the ramps at full lift to the collar ties is 7’5”.
 

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#18 · (Edited)
I have been getting quotes from local companies to convert my std lift garage door to a high lift door that will follow the ceiling and am a little disappointed. $1600 seems very high for this! I can source the parts and do it myself but I need to know what springs to use. I’ll be using the 400-54 drums. 27” of high lift and then following a 30 degree pitch for approximately 5 more feet. I am planning on using 12 foot cables. It has a single 34” spring on it now that gives perfect balance. Wood door 8x8. .243 coil, 2” ID. Not sure how many turns. I would like to use two springs in case one would fail. Can anyone help me on what springs I would need? Thanks.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Thought I would post a follow up on the garage project. The door has been converted to high lift and it is working really well. I am able to raise the car all the way up, 74”, and have room to spare with the door fully open. It took some doing but I am glad I decided to do it myself. I had a quote for $1600 parts and labor and that was just way too much! I was able to do the job for less than half that. I sourced the parts and opener from DDM Garage Doors. Nice people and quick response to email and phone calls. Garage door is 8’x8’. 11’ from the floor to the shaft/spring assembly. 13’ 7” from the floor to the collar ties. Now I can park the new car under the 57! I included a cool picture of a friend and I this past Sunday at the drags. Fun day.

Ceiling Room Beam Building House


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