It's been a long time coming, but it's finally happening.
I'll have a good 57 P case with an Eaton posi up for sale here shortly. Gears are Yukon 3.55, but judging by the noise it's been making, they may need replacing. Once it's out, I'll post a pic of it.
As it turns out, it's NOT a P case, just a standard 57 case. But it does still have a good Eaton LSD posi unit, and the grinding work has already been done to make it fit, which you'd have to do to make this diff fit a factory rear. That said, I can't guarantee the gears will be reusable, so it's essentially a 57 center section with a good Eaton diff. If you're interested in it, shoot me a PM.
Really, I'm going from a 3.55 to a 3.70 gear, so no real difference there. But it will sure as hell stop a lot nicer with the rear discs over the rear drums that never actually worked (we're also redoing all the brake lines, adding a line lock and proportioning valve) and I can finally put a sticky tire under the car to see what it will really do. The main reason I'm doing all this is in preparation for the turbocharged LS I have planned for it.
Nothing against 1350s, but I have a 10 second Camaro that has 30 years and 100s of passes on its 1310s. U-joints life is all about geometry more than size.
I just ordered a 9" from Quick Performance yesterday. I was wondering if any alterations need made to the drive shaft. I know I will need a new ujoint but what about the length?
Will it need shortened at all or will I need to buy a longer one?
Nope, even with the conversion U-Joint, the same shaft still fits. It's probably a hair tighter to the trans than it was before, but still enough clearance for suspension movement.
I one time had seven 9 inch jugs on the shop floor and had 6 styles of yoke between them. I have seen 9 inch swaps where no driveshaft mods were necessary and some where a shorter shaft was required.
ALMOST done. We've been chipping away at it little by little as time allows. I had to get new stainless flex lines for the rear brakes, as the stuff Quick sent was some oddball size that wasn't going to jive with everything else.
Updated pics here: http://imgur.com/a/jTJSG
Welp, everything is all buttoned up!!
Well, almost. Got a leaky fitting on the outlet of the line lock that needs addressing. Started out ok, but after a few stops, the pedal was going to the floor from what I assume is air getting in the system. Other than that, all seems great.
I had some issues with my line lock leaking as well. Ate some of the paint off my inner fender. :argh:
I put all new Wilwoods on mine during the QP install and had a lot of issues with air in the lines.
Good luck and great progress so far!
Mine is dripping down on the steering box, so no biggie there.
We're going to work on it tonight. Pull the line lock, see if we can't get it to seal up. If not, I may just put a union in it for now and get it replaced under warranty. Then thoroughly bleed the brakes. Fingers crossed!!
It's the line lock. Pulled the fitting off, used some Leak Lock on it, put it back in, cranked it down as much as we were comfortable with, and still gushes fluid. Looks like pretty poor machine work with a really dull tap on the output threads. Gonna return it to Summit and get the Hurst unit instead. But for now we put a union in its place so I have brakes. I might even get to test drive it if it ever stops raining here.
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