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Old 11-25-2018, 03:07 PM   #11
Old Buzzard

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"The shrader valves and caps are a common place to leak"
Not sure what Don is alluding to.
However, we had this same issue w/ my bud's 33 roadster. No leaks with dye checking. Fresh charge, working well. 6 mo's later, dead player.
We found that the rubber seal inside the cap was pushing the Schrader valve just enuf to leak.
Took the rubber out of the cap, shortened the nipple up. WALA!
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:52 PM   #12
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Default Southern Rods a/c Won't Cool !!!

Southern Rods a/c system STILL not working properly. Had the system charge tested in B-G by an 'a/c guru' and he advised that the charge was good, no low or high pressure, but the low pressure line from the compressor was nowhere near as cold as it should have been. The Southern Rods rep at Bowling Green looked at it and advised that it was getting some hot coolant past the heater valve (not closing properly) and recommended putting vise grips on the heater hose going home and then two ball valves in (both hoses) to isolate the a/c system from the engine coolant when running the a/c. Put vise grips on the hose before heading home from B-G and ran the a/c at Max. The vent temp (measured with a thermometer in the vent) cooled down to 53 degrees then stopped. We were more comfortable turning the a/c off and rolling down the windows!

Installed the two ball valves this afternoon (high of 84), made certain that they were both closed, and took it out to test the a/c with NO hot coolant to the a/c system ... no change. Measured temp still got no cooler than 53 degrees at the vent. Engine temp is rock solid at 190 and (1,300 cfm, with shroud) electric fans are working perfectly. Am I expecting too much if I'm looking for enough cooling to keep the car comfortable when it's 90-100 outside, much less in the 80's??

Going nuts here trying to figure out why a properly charged system with no leaks, a good trinary valve, and a compressor that's Not cycling, still refuses to cool properly! Running at max cooling with the heater hoses completely shut off it should be able to almost refrigerate our '57, shouldn't it?! My Colorado a/c is Cold without being on Max Cool. The wife's Sentra's a/c is Cold without being maxed out. Why is the Southern Rods system having so much trouble keeping things cool?? Has anyone else had this issue or am I the only one??

I've had four (!) a/c shops look at it plus the 'a/c guru' in B-G and the mfr rep at the Nationals and it still won't keep the car cool! If I can't get this &*%$ system cooling properly, I'm ripping it out and putting something else in!! We built the car for long distance cruising, including the summer months, and no a/c is Not an option.

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Old 08-14-2019, 01:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekctrl View Post
Southern Rods a/c system STILL not working properly. Had the system charge tested in B-G by an 'a/c guru' and he advised that the charge was good, no low or high pressure, but the low pressure line from the compressor was nowhere near as cold as it should have been. The Southern Rods rep at Bowling Green looked at it and advised that it was getting some hot coolant past the heater valve (not closing properly) and recommended putting vise grips on the heater hose going home and then two ball valves in (both hoses) to isolate the a/c system from the engine coolant when running the a/c. Put vise grips on the hose before heading home from B-G and ran the a/c at Max. The vent temp (measured with a thermometer in the vent) cooled down to 53 degrees then stopped. We were more comfortable turning the a/c off and rolling down the windows!

Installed the two ball valves this afternoon (high of 84), made certain that they were both closed, and took it out to test the a/c with NO hot coolant to the a/c system ... no change. Measured temp still got no cooler than 53 degrees at the vent. Engine temp is rock solid at 190 and (1,300 cfm, with shroud) electric fans are working perfectly. Am I expecting too much if I'm looking for enough cooling to keep the car comfortable when it's 90-100 outside, much less in the 80's??

Going nuts here trying to figure out why a properly charged system with no leaks, a good trinary valve, and a compressor that's Not cycling, still refuses to cool properly! Running at max cooling with the heater hoses completely shut off it should be able to almost refrigerate our '57, shouldn't it?! My Colorado a/c is Cold without being on Max Cool. The wife's Sentra's a/c is Cold without being maxed out. Why is the Southern Rods system having so much trouble keeping things cool?? Has anyone else had this issue or am I the only one??

I've had four (!) a/c shops look at it plus the 'a/c guru' in B-G and the mfr rep at the Nationals and it still won't keep the car cool! If I can't get this &*%$ system cooling properly, I'm ripping it out and putting something else in!! We built the car for long distance cruising, including the summer months, and no a/c is Not an option.

the best system I have ever put in a trifive was an old gen 3 Vintage air unit. and it worked awesome this weekend in BG
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:43 AM   #14
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My take on this: Since the S/A rep can't fix it, with it sitting in ft of him, I'd get a return auth number from him, and send it back.
We use VA only, in the installs we do.
It'll be a pita, to do. But, you didn't get what you paid for.
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:08 AM   #15
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Default Southern Rods a/c won't cool

We bought the system from Southern Rods at the Bowling Green Nationals several years ago and it has Never worked properly for us. (No, I didn't install it. I had an a/c shop do the install.) However, I strongly suspect that S-R's response to an RMA request will be "sorry, it's waaay out of warranty". I'd very much prefer to get it working and cooling properly and not have to return it, but we don't always get what we want (or paid for), do we?

Anyone else here use a Southern Rods a/c system? What has your experience been with getting it working properly? Have I overlooked something that might cause the system to fail to cool properly? Am I expecting too much by looking for vent temps cooler than we're getting from a non-factory system?
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tekctrl View Post
We bought the system from Southern Rods at the Bowling Green Nationals several years ago and it has Never worked properly for us. (No, I didn't install it. I had an a/c shop do the install.) However, I strongly suspect that S-R's response to an RMA request will be "sorry, it's waaay out of warranty". I'd very much prefer to get it working and cooling properly and not have to return it, but we don't always get what we want (or paid for), do we?

Anyone else here use a Southern Rods a/c system? What has your experience been with getting it working properly? Have I overlooked something that might cause the system to fail to cool properly? Am I expecting too much by looking for vent temps cooler than we're getting from a non-factory system?
You should expect low 40's out of any A/C system. You should be able to take it to a reputable A/C shop and they tell you why it won't cool any lower. Has any of the shops started from scratch, replaced the dryer, vacuumed, and recharged? It's not rocket science or brain surgery.
The system apparently was designed to work or they wouldn't still be in business.
My Classic Auto Air cooled to 34-35 degrees last Saturday when it was 102 here in Texas.
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:31 PM   #17
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What Don said about vent temps. All of our installs show 40's.
You don't have under drive pulleys, by any chance?
Is the system a v belt, or serpentine?
Notice any belt dust around the ft of the engine pulleys?
Is the compressor a REAL Sanden, or?

As an "aside"..I see you were at Yokota, AFB. I was there in 61-63. We had a recon photo operation there.
When were you there?
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Last edited by Old Buzzard; 08-14-2019 at 12:43 PM.. Reason: additional ?
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Old 08-14-2019, 12:41 PM   #18
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^ what acardon said.

What are your high and low pressures if you bring the engine speed up to say 1500 rpm?

Does the system have an adjustable thermostat (often mounted on the evaporator)? Older VA systems had one and many users don't even know it's there or know to adjust it.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:03 PM   #19
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........................Compressor kicks on ... then stops ... then kicks on again ... then stops ... cycling on/off rapidly over and over ... .............

Going nuts here trying to figure out why a properly charged system with no leaks, a good trinary valve, and a compressor that's Not cycling, still refuses to cool properly! Running at max cooling with the heater hoses completely shut off it should be able to almost refrigerate our '57, shouldn't it?!
At one time the compressor was cycling on and off. What changed that?
The thermostst would cause the compressor to shut off if it were adjusted to 53 degrees. Does it shut off at that point?
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Last edited by acardon; 08-14-2019 at 01:06 PM..
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Old 08-14-2019, 07:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Buzzard View Post
What Don said about vent temps. All of our installs show 40's.
You don't have under drive pulleys, by any chance?
Is the system a v belt, or serpentine?
Notice any belt dust around the ft of the engine pulleys?
Is the compressor a REAL Sanden, or?

As an "aside"..I see you were at Yokota, AFB. I was there in 61-63. We had a recon photo operation there.
When were you there?
System is all V-belt, no under drive pulleys, no belt dust. I wouldn't know a 'real' sanden from a fake, but it's the compressor that S-R provided and it passed muster by the S-R rep at the Nat's.

I don't know what the pressure readings are but they were checked and passed muster by the 'a/c guru' (according to the Corvette Test Track people, "the best in the area") in Bowling Green.

(I was at Yokota from 69-71. My father-in-law was Chief of Maint (CMSgt) at the recon squadron 67-70. I was in the 2127 Comm Sq, across from the bowling alley and under the microwave tower. :-) )
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