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Old 03-29-2019, 07:09 PM   #11
alaskastreamin
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You should ask him about aligning the lifter bores and sleeving them.

After our boat accident, I spent a several days with our friend in Minnesota who is a machinist. I helped him dyno a 383 to get base line numbers (530hp @ 6800 rpm's. Then tore it down, reamed the lifter bores to be in perfect alignment with the cam lobes. He then installed sleeves that extended into the cam tunnel and up into the lifter valley some. This gave more sidewall for the lifter to bear on. Also (this was interesting), He machined a groove in the bushing. I asked why? He said,.. Do you remember when we were on the dyno and the oil pressure was bouncing? That was because the high lift cam was pushing the lifters higher than the oiling grooves were in the lifter. Every time a lifter goes full height, the oil passage is blocked off for a split second. Take this times 16 lifters and the pressure gauge bounces.

By adding the groove in the bushing, the lifter gets oiling 100% of the time.

Also by truing up the bores, the roller will sit flat AND centered on the cam lobe.

This was the only modification he wanted to do for this test. 24 hours later we had the motor back on the dyno. Oil pressure was rock steady and after re-adjusting the timing and jetting for the modification, he gained 38 hp!!

This work was done oct. 2016 and he submitted the article that was in engine builders magazine sometime in 2017.

There are other things he does that just amazes me. This modification is relatively cheap and is a great bang for the buck.
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Old 04-11-2019, 12:25 PM   #12
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Well seams as though I will be putting more into my big block than I had thought. It has to be bored out, so much for using the stock stuff in it. He said he will need to 0.30 or 0.40, He is going to do a rough cut then check it. Anyone out there that needs some stock bearings and rings for a 402 I have them.
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Old 04-11-2019, 01:24 PM   #13
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Well seams as though I will be putting more into my big block than I had thought. It has to be bored out, so much for using the stock stuff in it. He said he will need to 0.30 or 0.40, He is going to do a rough cut then check it. Anyone out there that needs some stock bearings and rings for a 402 I have them.
I've gotten to the point where I expect every motor I take in to be bored one size larger than what it was.
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Old 04-11-2019, 06:38 PM   #14
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I've gotten to the point where I expect every motor I take in to be bored one size larger than what it was.
I am thinking this will be the last one I ever build. But I have said that before Lol.
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:31 PM   #15
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Sounds like you have found a competent shop.

I use Roberts on Bonnie Oaks in Chatt
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:43 PM   #16
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a 375 hp factory 402/396 has a pretty high compression ratio, rectangular port heads and is not happy on todays gas. they also don't make much power down low where you need it on a street car. You might want to re think your build particularly compression and cam combo.
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Old 04-11-2019, 09:18 PM   #17
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This comes under the category of NOMB John....I'm curious as to how you would recommend Bobby build his engine.
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:04 PM   #18
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I would pick a cam like a comp extreme energy 268 or 272 and keep compression around 9.6 to 1 .
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Old 04-12-2019, 10:49 AM   #19
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I would pick a cam like a comp extreme energy 268 or 272 and keep compression around 9.6 to 1 .
Sounds like a good streetable combination to me.

What heads would be the best?
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Old 04-12-2019, 12:03 PM   #20
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Sounds like a good streetable combination to me.

What heads would be the best?
honestly the rect port are over kill and the engine will be lacking in bottom end like most rect port engines do, a good open chamber oval port would be a much better choice.
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