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Old 05-08-2019, 12:20 PM   #11
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Whatever you do, don't install a resistor inline and expect to get correct readings....The gauge readings are not linear.
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farm Boy View Post
A friend of mine bought a ’56 Bel Air and his temp gauge was reading hot. He bought a new sending unit at the local auto parts store and there was no change. The gauge would peg on hot even before the 180º thermostat would open.

I loaned him the original sending unit from my ’56. With my sending unit in his car the temp gauge would read just a tick above ¼ when the thermostat would open. He wanted to buy my sending unit but I said “no way”. I only loaned it to him to test his gauge.

I suggested he buy a NOS AC replacement sending unit on ebay. He bought an AC 1513130 which according to the book is a correct replacement for 1956 Chevrolet passenger cars (including Corvettes) and trucks, as well as 1956-64 Cadillacs. With the replacement sending unit his gauge now reads just under ½ at 180º.

I tested my both my original and the replacement AC sending unit in a pan of water on the stove and here are the results.

Original 1956 Chevy Temp Sender

150º = 380 Ω
180º = 275 Ω
190º = 255 Ω
212º = 200 Ω

AC replacement Temp Sender 1513130

150º = 318Ω
180º = 227Ω
190º = 205Ω
212º = 155Ω
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:01 PM   #13
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Probably not, but just make sure your needle / pointer is not bent.
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:02 PM   #14
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Purchased the same sending unit from Classic Chevy made by Lectriclimited #01513130. The unit that was in the car wasn't working properly either, but this new sending unit is even worse. Before, the gauge would read right around the 3rd dot. This new one it goes right on past and if the needle could move farther I'm sure it would.

Have heard the only fix is to install a resistor in line, but this doesn't truly fix the issue. Just rigs it to make it appear as though it works.

Guess I should contact the shop and see how they planned on calibrating it starting at $200.
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:05 PM   #15
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Before throwing your money away, test your sender in a pan of water and your gauge with a 1500 ohm potentiometer....Then you will see where your problem lies.



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Old 05-10-2019, 02:50 PM   #16
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Does any kind of pipe sealer affect the correct gauge reading?
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:20 PM   #17
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When the engine is stone cold, say with a water temperature in the 70-80 degree. Would you have any idea as to where the needle should be sitting at that point? Mine starts out at just above the first indicator dot on the gauge. Have seen photos of gauges for sale on the internet, some new, some used. On some the needle sits at the lower bottom, some sit in the same location as mine and then others are sitting right in the middle.

It would seem as though the needle should be all way to the left since that's supposedly the 100 degree or less range.

Also is it difficult to change these out?
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Old 05-10-2019, 05:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
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So I have a new sender, the lectroniclimited unit that reads 80 ohms, the old sending unit also reads 80 ohms. The temperature gauge swings from the first dot well past the 3rd dot on it. Yet it still doesn't read properly, so this leads me to believe that the sending unit isn't the correct calibration. Otherwise it should technically be working properly. Or am I still missing something? If I need to install a resistor inline, then the sender is not correct?
make sure you have a good ground, I run a ground wire from the gauge cluster to dash frame to make sure it is grounded correctly.
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Old 05-10-2019, 05:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown View Post
When the engine is stone cold, say with a water temperature in the 70-80 degree. Would you have any idea as to where the needle should be sitting at that point? Mine starts out at just above the first indicator dot on the gauge. Have seen photos of gauges for sale on the internet, some new, some used. On some the needle sits at the lower bottom, some sit in the same location as mine and then others are sitting right in the middle.

It would seem as though the needle should be all way to the left since that's supposedly the 100 degree or less range.

Also is it difficult to change these out?
Sounds like you may have a bum gauge - something hanging it up on the cold side. If you can fix it or replace it, then you can use a good infrared sensor on your thermostat housing and record the temp. Then, immediately see where your gauge reads. So if the infrared reads say, 205 degrees, and your gauge reads say, in the middle, you will have a good idea that you are getting pretty hot if and when it climbs past the middle of the gauge.

To get to the guage itself, disconnect the speedo cable and pull the instrument cluster out of the dash after taking out the retaining screws Two at the top, and a couple under the cover that straddles the steering column. Pull it out far enough to remove the two screws holding the gauge in. You will want a short stubby screwdriver. Small hands help. I'm sure someone will post a diagram.
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemy55ba View Post
Sounds like you may have a bum gauge - something hanging it up on the cold side. If you can fix it or replace it, then you can use a good infrared sensor on your thermostat housing and record the temp. Then, immediately see where your gauge reads. So if the infrared reads say, 205 degrees, and your gauge reads say, in the middle, you will have a good idea that you are getting pretty hot if and when it climbs past the middle of the gauge.

To get to the guage itself, disconnect the speedo cable and pull the instrument cluster out of the dash after taking out the retaining screws Two at the top, and a couple under the cover that straddles the steering column. Pull it out far enough to remove the two screws holding the gauge in. You will want a short stubby screwdriver. Small hands help. I'm sure someone will post a diagram.
Guess I should have been more detailed about the description of what's happening. With the ignition switch in the off position, the needle on the temperature gauge is at the far left, which I would expect. As soon as I turn the ignition switch on without starting the engine, the needle will move to just over the first indicator on the gauge. Seems to me that the gauge should stay in the far left position, until the engine is running and building heat. But then again at my age, which is the same as the cars age, things don't always work as expected either.
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