at the end of the day all you need is a decent drop spindle, a disc brake kit some tubular upper a arms with extra caster built in, a 500 box power steering conversion kit and maybe a tilt steering column kit. the jim myer kit requires you to mod the stock column or replace it just like the other kits do. for the useage you have listed in your postings there is no need to make this a super or even moderately expensive task. you do not need $500 a piece carbon corvette rotors. just a basic disc brake kit.
Hiedts upper control arms, dropped spindles, and disc brake kit are $1356, add a cpp 500 box at $419 at summit racing and a flaming river tilt column at around 500 +200 in misc stuf you end up needing and you have a total of $2475 just about half the cost of the jim myer stuff. and it is all bolt in in your driveway.
Way over worked for a car as a semi daily driver w350hp and never going to be in any competition. All others suggestion will work great and handle good with all BOLT on. Over years done the previous mentioned I did to my 55 and completely satisfied. Can drive it 10 or 100 and it all works and stops and the power steering works well. Save a ton of money and enjoy the ride.
Drive both and make the comparison. If you look at the poll it specifically mentions a new frame as one of the voting options, hence my reply....
I see a lot of guys comparing pricing but hardly a mention of bumpsteer etc. Iíve used that 500 steering box etc and was not impressed. Most bolt on racks suffer from bumpsteer.
I have made the poll to represent the exact price quotes I have gotten from local shops to get each type of work done.
This means that at the 10,000 and 21,000 marks, the car would have rack and pinion p/s and disc brakes (the full chassis would have disc at all 4 wheels + modern fuel tank and updated suspension at all 4 wheels)
He did my front C4 front clip and does top notch work for much less than the $21K you've been quoted for a full chassis. I should note, replacing the whole chassis with aftermarket components, no matter what option you might choose is a large undertaking. You'll have to change many things with each design.
If your priority is driving your car and just having fun with it, go the bolt-on route.
If I were to do another tri-five with bolt-ons, this is what I'd do.
Ridetech front control arms, coil-overs, and front sway bar (all their stuff). Get some tall balljoints to go with the control arms...lots of info about that here.
Borgeson 600 box (12.7:1 power steering box) with Flaming River tilt column, and necessary pump.
CPP 2" drop spindles for C5 Corvette 13" brakes (with C6 calipers). You could do power, manual, or hydraboost brakes depending on brake feel preference. I really like the Wilwood dual master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve.
2" or 3" drop Global West rear leaf springs and del-alum bushings. Use a rear shock mount designed for lowered cars and matching Ridetech shocks.
Your stock rear end is probably fine with 350HP...I'd add a posi, if it doesn't already have it. Rear discs and rear sway bar optional.