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Old 07-23-2019, 08:26 PM   #1
ezacres
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Default bleeding brakes on frame mounted master

Its me again got the cab primed and ready to place it on the frame. I installed a new double bowl power brake assembly on the frame but haven't charged it with fluid yet. I have a remote brake reservoir coming and the master cylinder looks to be lower than my wheel cylinders. Short of having to buy a mighty vac is there any way to bleed these lines? This is the first time I have had to deal with this situation with the master cylinder being that low. My first step is to remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it to get air out of the master cylinder and help remove as much air as I can. once I properly secure the cab it will be hard to get to the master cylinder so I thought I would do it now. Is this the way to approach it. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

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Old 07-23-2019, 08:28 PM   #2
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PS I put all new lines and wheel cylinders on the frame.
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Old 07-23-2019, 10:24 PM   #3
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Dis drums what do you have.
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Old 07-23-2019, 11:52 PM   #4
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i have disc brakes in front and drum brakes in back. The disc brakes are power I installed a complete IFS system and rear springs from CPP. its all new and not fired up yet.
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:59 PM   #5
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I just bought his kit from Harbor Freight, worked fine I wouldn't want to use it if I did it for a living

Pittsburgh® Automotive Brake Bleeder Kit 24.99
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:31 PM   #6
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You bleed it just like any other car/truck installation. If you put a remote fill up high then you have no need for residual pressure valve at the front brakes as the vent is now up high just like a normal firewall mount.
I use the Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder and it works great. I could never use a mity vac as hand pumping was beyond slow and tedious.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:34 PM   #7
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Not the hand operated one, get the air compressor siphon unit https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...der-92924.html
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezacres View Post
i have disc brakes in front and drum brakes in back. The disc brakes are power I installed a complete IFS system and rear springs from CPP. its all new and not fired up yet.
I have the same set-up from CPP, except I have firewall mounted brake master cylinder. Let me Know how everything is working. I have my cab on and the engine mocked up ready to weld in the motor mounts. I painted the cab today.
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Old 07-24-2019, 11:45 PM   #9
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hOW YOU DOING RAY? WHAT YEAR IS YOUR TRUCK? MINE IS A 55 1ST SERIES 5 WINDOW. MY FRAME IS ALL DONE I JUST HAVE NOT CHARGED THE BRAKE SYSTEM UP YET. I'M HOPING THAT BY HAVING THE RESERVOIR ON THE FIRE WALL IT WILL HELP A LITTLE. THE CPP REMOTE RESERVOIR KIT I BOUGHT ONLY CAME WITH 6' OF HOSE BY THE TIME I GET IT ON THE FIRE WALL NOT ENOUGH HOSE. I CALLED CPP TODAY AND THEY ARE SENDING ME ANOTHER 6' SO I'M MAKING THE MOUNTING BRACKET FOR RESERVOIR. I GOT A MOUNTING BOLT KIT FROM LMC BUT WANTED TO KNOCK THE MASTERCYLINDER OUT OF THE WAY SO I CAN INSTALL THE BOLTS TO MOUNT CAB.

WHAT MOTOR YOU GOING WITH IN YOUR TRUCK? I WILL MAKE MY DECISION ON MY MOTOR THIS WINTER. DEBATING ABOUT TO REDO THE 235 OR JUST PUT A CRATE MOTOR IN EITHER WAY ITS GONNA COST SOME BUCKS.
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS.
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Old 07-25-2019, 11:06 AM   #10
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I tapped a quick connect air coupler into a scrap master cyl. cover. Less than 5# air pressure does the trick. Too much air will escape the cover seal and make a mess,brake fluid will melt paint. Lay a rag over it just in case. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the bowls so as not to introduce air.

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