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Big Block Install Questions and Answers Special Category just for asking questions about installing a Big Block in your Trifive Chevy.

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Old 10-17-2019, 12:43 AM   #1
Apache Old Man
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Default Carburetor Throttle system for 502 big Block

Hello everybody

I am in need to know what system you use to throttle your carburetor. My 55 Chevy is bare, no throttle peddle, no linkage-nothing. I have a new 502 HO big block with a 750 Holley that is going to be installed. This project is in its 7th year and I acquire plenty of parts to assemble the car to be inspected for getting the title because it came from out of state. This year I didnít touch the car but last month I purchased my engine. I will be using the TH400. I hope you can help me with pictures of your carís system for throttling your carburetor. Bert
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:56 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Apache Old Man View Post
Hello everybody

I am in need to know what system you use to throttle your carburetor. My 55 Chevy is bare, no throttle peddle, no linkage-nothing. I have a new 502 HO big block with a 750 Holley that is going to be installed. This project is in its 7th year and I acquire plenty of parts to assemble the car to be inspected for getting the title because it came from out of state. This year I didnít touch the car but last month I purchased my engine. I will be using the TH400. I hope you can help me with pictures of your carís system for throttling your carburetor. Bert
Lokar BB pedal & throttle cable system. One of the better changes on our 57. The pedal bolts in the original location in 5min. The cable set up once installed is much smoother than the original linkage. Made daily driving our 5psd much smoother and nicer.

There are cheaper options, but nothing easier or better functioning IMHO.
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Old 10-17-2019, 02:04 AM   #3
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Lokar BB pedal & throttle cable system. One of the better changes on our 57. The pedal bolts in the original location in 5min. The cable set up once installed is much smoother than the original linkage. Made daily driving our 5psd much smoother and nicer.

There are cheaper options, but nothing easier or better functioning IMHO.
Any pictures of your setup? I need to locate a supplier or should I try Ebay?
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Old 10-17-2019, 02:33 AM   #4
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Any pictures of your setup? I need to locate a supplier or should I try Ebay?
Yeah, summit sells all of it. The pedal is trifive specific and comes in a couple of variations. You want the big block variation as it mounts the throttle cable higher to help with the valve covers.

Here's the pedal. Note, there are knock offs out there and such but they reportedly have mounting issues. The lokar does not.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...6113/overview/

Here's the throttle cable kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-XTC-1000HT

I'll have to grab a picture. I was cheap for a while and wish I would have done this a long time ago. The original worked but it was not real smooth. The only reason I finally upgraded was because i found the pedal on amazon black Friday somehow for $75 so I bought it. Then sat on it for a year and finally put it on. Best pedal feel and smooth that we've had in 17yrs of driving this car. Wish I had done it 16yrs earlier.

Download the instruction from lokar. The pedal uses 2 of the existing bolts and firewall hole.

I have the original hardware along with a lot of other stuff to sell one day ; )
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Old 10-17-2019, 02:56 AM   #5
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Here's a pic of the cable feeding through the firewall to the carb.

Also, I posted the link to the cable only. You probably want the kit with the cable and carb mount for it.
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:03 AM   #6
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Yeah, summit sells all of it. The pedal is trifive specific and comes in a couple of variations. You want the big block variation as it mounts the throttle cable higher to help with the valve covers.

Here's the pedal. Note, there are knock offs out there and such but they reportedly have mounting issues. The lokar does not.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...6113/overview/

Here's the throttle cable kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-XTC-1000HT

I'll have to grab a picture. I was cheap for a while and wish I would have done this a long time ago. The original worked but it was not real smooth. The only reason I finally upgraded was because i found the pedal on amazon black Friday somehow for $75 so I bought it. Then sat on it for a year and finally put it on. Best pedal feel and smooth that we've had in 17yrs of driving this car. Wish I had done it 16yrs earlier.

Download the instruction from lokar. The pedal uses 2 of the existing bolts and firewall hole.

I have the original hardware along with a lot of other stuff to sell one day ; )
This is cool. What brackets an how is it attached to the carburetor?
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:28 AM   #7
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Here's a pic of the cable feeding through the firewall to the carb.

Also, I posted the link to the cable only. You probably want the kit with the cable and carb mount for it.
Thanks for your time and help. This is awesome. Love the engine.
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Old 10-17-2019, 11:14 AM   #8
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the stock pedal assy and arm work fine. all parts are available thru the normal vendors. Personally I hate cables, prefer mechanical linkage. no risk of hang up is done correctly.
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Old 10-17-2019, 12:56 PM   #9
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the stock pedal assy and arm work fine. all parts are available thru the normal vendors. Personally I hate cables, prefer mechanical linkage. no risk of hang up is done correctly.
Hotrodg are you running a std or automatic transmission with your setup?
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:43 PM   #10
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Thanks for your time and help. This is awesome. Love the engine.
Here's one of the cable kits from Lokar like what I used except mine is black. They offer a lot of different variants including kick down linkages etc. But this one is like what i have on my holley 850 DP.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-dp-1000ht

Yes, the original works... not smooth or well IMHO but it can be made to work. Almost every car pre-fly by wire went from hard linkage to cables. I know someone on here had an issue with a cable and I can say that if you aren't careful about cutting the cable, it can eat up the sheath.... the cable can't have any fray or strand pulled out when you do the final assembly. If it does, it will cut into the sheath. But if you follow the directions, it is way better than what came with the car. If you have higher HP and especially a manual, i think it's worth the effort to have a smooth bottom end and not throw everyone in the car all around. When we first got the car with a low HP motor it wasn't as big of a deal. Good luck either way and I'll sell you all the stock hardware if you want it instead. It'll save some money for sure and if you put your heal up against the pedal more like a race car, it works ok. It's the modern style of driving with just your toes that makes it jerky at the beginning of the engagement.
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