I took my tv apart and found that there is brake fluid inside the booster vacuum chamber area. So itís time to get out rebuilt again. Any recommendations on a company to use to rebuild it.
That means that your master cylinder is leaking from the rear seal area back into the booster. The MC needs rebuilding, but does the booster also??
If you had leaking wheel cylinders, then your shoes may need replacing as well if the brakes are wet with brake fluid (or have been in the past). That was likely causing your brake grabbing (and lockup) issue.
PS. Fluid seals need 'regular use' to keep them functioning properly; cars that sit 99% of the time will regularly have these issues. Our old cars also need regular inspection and maintenance to identify and quickly correct such issues. Your car apparently has several issues and most probably due to sitting and not being driven... (Think of it as 'exercise', just as our bodies need exercise, so do our automobiles!)..
'55, '56, '57 Nomads North Alabama area Gary
With my findings I ended up replacing all the brake shoes and a full fluid flush. Now I just need to decide to either rebuild the original or go with the booster from classic industries
Your MC is leaking, and needs to be rebuilt with new seals, a number of kits out there to rebuild both it and the booster, not a difficult job, did my mc and booster a few years ago, no real problems once everything got straightened out, remember to bleed and adjust with no vacuum on the system. All the booster does is help pedal pressure, you won't need as much foot pressure to apply the brakes, the other issue for me is there is no pedal height adjustment on an original tredlevac, just something I had to get used to.
Unfortunately, most 60+ year old TVacs require more than just new seals.
The aluminum MC can easily corrode with DOT 3 brake fluid in the system. Sleeving the MC is the best/safest cure, but it's kind of a tricky step-sleeve. There is also a reproduction aluminum MC if you need it.
Try Jeff at Karp's Power Brake in Upland CA 909-985-0800, tell him Steve at Authentic Automotive sent you.
Well I went ahead and decided to go away from the treadle vac because they are so temperamental. So I ordered the treadle vac replacement through Classic industries it came with a bracket that bolts right up to the firewall bracket that the old tv was mounted to a 7‚ÄĚ booster, dual master cylinder and Proportion valve. The setup was a bit involved. I needed a few brass adapters to complete the install and make a separate line for the rear brake lines. The power steering pump behind the generator cleared the valve and I still have rio to check and fill the reservoir. So far the booster is working good but the pedal is still a bit tight. I‚Äôm not sure if I can make any adjustments to soften the pressure. I‚Äôll post pics later when I get home.
The problem has to do with the geometry of the treadle vac linkage on the inside it has a short lever that attaches to the brake pedal & the lever on the other end of the bell crank that attaches to the booster is a lot longer donít think it will ever feel right without everything inside including the pedal itself being replaced they make a offset booster mount to clear the factory P/S pump on a generator + a relocation bracket to move the generator mounting a little also.The thing is I donít know if the booster & mount you installed will work the master cyl & valve would though
This is the booster installed. The booster matches perfectly with the pedal when installed. When I press the brake it feels more like manual brakes at first but then it engages and feels better. I still have to check the vacuum measurement