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57 150 Gasser Build

27K views 141 replies 25 participants last post by  malibumonte78 
#1 ·
I am finally going to start a thread for my 57 Chevy 150 Gasser build. This is something I have been thinking about for a long time. I have ran my 57 wagon in the stock class at the Meltdown drags twice and just shook my head because I have an O/T drag car at home that runs 10s and can't be used and I am here running 15s. I built the drag car 5 years ago when there was plans to build a new drag strip close to home. Well those plans fell through and now the car hardly gets used, the closest strip is 2.5 hours away and the closest good track is 3.5 hours away. Mostly the car just sits and uses up good space. So I have decided that I can part that car out and use the parts to build me a gasser that I will have more fun with. I have really enjoyed watching the gassers run at the Meltdown Drags and Trifive Nationals the last two years. I have 150 two door sedan shell that my dad got as a parts car when he bought a few other 57's. I originally planned on putting a 55-59 Chevy truck axle up front, but a couple months ago I bought a 56 that is already set up with a speedway kit so now I am just going to use that. My vision is of a nasty all black 57 150 two door sedan with a BBC, straight axle, and aluminum slots. I have read many of the gasser builds on here, but I could use all of the help I can get.
 

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#2 ·
Well I have cash in hand from the sale of the Malibu and I am starting to really plan my build, I have two areas that I am hung up on. one is front brakes and the other is rear suspension.

Front Brakes, The axle that I have is set up with 49-54 Chevy car spindles with drum brake hubs, but they didn't install any brake component in the hubs. Probably ok as I should do disc anyways.
Three options I have found
•Wilwood; what I want, but more than I can afford
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwo...Chevy-Spindles-2-Piston-Steel-Rotor,1352.html
•Metric/Mustang II brake kit. Affordable, but I HATE metric calipers and the idea of Mustang II rotors
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front...ang-II-to-1949-54-Chevy-5-on-4-3-4,36437.html
•Chevelle Caliper and Rotor kit. This is what I would prefer to use, but the notes say that is won't work with stock steering arms which I have and would prefer to use over the speedway flat arms. Also they say that the will not work with a straight tube only a drop axle because the caliper interferes with the turning radius. Anyone know if those statements are true or if modifications can be done to overcome them?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front...to-1949-54-Chevy-Spindle-5-on-4-3-4,2013.html

Lastly what does anybody know about machining the spindles for disc brakes that speedway says is required? Is that something a local machine shop could do? I don't want to send mine to Speedway and pay $120 to have them machined and also I don't want to buy their aftermarket spindles as I have heard those are weak.
 
#3 ·
Rear suspension. I have looked at and read a lot of threads but I still feel really stupid on this.
My knowledge of rear suspension is basically limited to leaf springs and slapper bars, Caltracs would be hi-tech for me. That is the way I am wanting to go out of simplicity's sake, but I would like this thing to work good and look the part of a real gasser.
•Leaf springs and traction bars
•Ladder bars with leafs and floaters
•Ladder bars with coil springs and separate shocks
•Ladder bars with coil-overs
If I go the ladder bar route I feel like I am going to have to enlist a chassis guy to help me. I have attached a picture of some clamp on style ladder bars that came with the 56, but I don't think that they would really be a good choice, maybe I am wrong?
 

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#4 ·
I'm not the person with all the answers but I am also in the process of building a 57 Gasser.
I used a '49 GMC straight axle, shackles toward the front.. Front and Rear disks. For the rear I used a narrowed Chrysler 8-3/4 with Competition Engineering Ladder bar / Coil overs. I also narrowed the frame by 20 inches total. You have to decide whether you want to lift the car for tire clearance or cut out the wheelwells.

I'm not a fan of the Lakewood bars you pictured...just my two cents. I have a pair and they didn't work for me. Anyone interested in a set?

I have gotten quite a bit of info from this forum and I posted pix in my profile. There are many guys in the forum that know WAYY more than me.

I was advised to figure and plan out everything ahead of time, so I set up my car with the approximate lift I wanted (14 inches over stock) and the wheelbase - 118".

My choice of components was mostly a result of cost.

Good luck with your project.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Disc brakes

I used the speedway kit and had to get longer bolts is all for the 57 steering arm to fit at top then I could attach my steering box drag link to it....my axle was all truck products though.
...great kit for the money for sure, not certain about machining?
 
#7 ·
The GM metric calipers are basically identical to the previous GM std. calipers, except for metric threads. One is 70's std. and the other 80's metric. Can't tell them apart, except for threads. I have no issue with either, as long as I know which one I have, and have used both.
If your Speedway axle is set up for '49-'54 drums/hubs, then swapping to anything else will mean changing to new spindles also. I have the Speedway axle with MII spindles and they are just spindles similar to what all axles use. No reason to be afraid of or avoid MII spindles and hubs, as they're as strong and well made as anything. Speedway axles came with either MII or early Ford spindles. The early Ford spindles have a huge flange for the backing plate to mount on, and I didn't care for the bulky look, so went MII. I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Speedway MII kit. Not much cheaper that works as well, and saves fabrication work. You can assemble parts and rework caliper brackets, etc., and maybe get it done for around $150, but it's more work and the savings is small.
Pretty sure the Speedway flat arms are as strong or stronger than stock, and look much better. I have them on both of my gassers and have used them on several other axles I've installed. They wont be a problem if you go that route. You may find that putting the caliper brackets forward will give you clearance and make it all fit with stock arms. Might need longer grade 8 bolts, and possibly a spacer to do so, but it can be done. I did this when I put a E100 I beam axle in my buddy's Nova and converted it to Cherokee rotors and GM calipers using stock arms.
Never heard anything about Speedway spindles being weak? Don't believe all the myths you read on the internet! I read all about their axles being thin walls and easy to bend. I had to cut and narrow the axle in my Austin gasser and was pleasantly surprised to see the wall thickness was nearly 7/16" thick! That's much thicker than any tube axle spec I've ever seen.
I've probably used about every rear suspension system imaginable over the decades. I have ladder bars with coilovers on my Austin. Comp Engineering ladder bars, and QA-1 adjustable coilovers. It works great, and launches straight/ Hooks up as good as I've ever had, and has so much adjustment that I never use once it was all set up. Easy to fabricate, and having factory ladder bars made fabrication pretty simple. They are short at around 36", but that works well on my 89" wheelbase Austin.
On my Falcon I have leaf springs with 54" ladder bars. Not using floaters, but instead I have shackle front mount to eliminate spring binding. I put new heavy duty multi leaf spring packs, and also have air shocks just for track use. They are plumbed with a dual line kit so I can add air separately. When I run on the street I put about 35 lbs. air in them. At the strip I run 50-60 psi in the right rear to keep the car launching straight with the 464 BBC and 4 speed combo. Works excellent, and it launches as straight as any car I've run, even wheels up launches.
 
#8 ·
I have ladder bars with coilovers on my Austin. Comp Engineering ladder bars, and QA-1 adjustable coilovers.
This is what I run also. Works on the street just fine as you can adjust the shocks if needed and has full adjustability for ride height/stance. On the track, I can cut 1.45 60' times on my ET streets and 1.43's on 9" slicks.
 
#11 · (Edited)
The Comp engineering come in two lengths, but they are also different bars for each link. One has the extra adjuster built into one leg of the ladder bar, so it's slightly longer. I bought the less expensive without that adjuster, and they're fine, but I wish I had gone with the inline adjuster, as setting pinion angle and suspension is so much simpler with the higher priced ladder bars.
If you want to save some coin, get them at Jegs, as Jegs brand are Comp Engineering at a discounted price. $209 for the inline adjustables. These are great as they also have the safety loop on the front heim that NHRA requires. The others are $159, but require dropping the rear down to make adjustments.
The complete kit for $468 will have everything, but I found I could build much of that and save over $150.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

You will need a panhard bar also with any coilover ladder bar or 4 link setup. I'd additionally buy the ladder bar front mounting kit for $73, as it makes it much simpler to install. I built my own and just bought the front multi hole brackets. If you get the kit it just does the same without gathering parts.
For the coilover shocks I'd get multi hole brackets also, as it allows even more stance adjustment to set the car's stance perfectly. Speedway often has "garage sale" pricing on coilovers, and I got mine for $120 each new. Huge savings over the usual QA-1 pricing.
Might also look at QS Components before starting your build orders.
http://www.qscomponents.com/
I stumbled across them years ago, and have had really great service and inexpensive parts for rod ends, and such. They also ship almost everything priority mail, so it wont slow me up when I'm moving along quickly. I buy heims, rod ends, weld bungs, etc. from them to build up drag links, panhard bars, and tie rods. Built my own ladder bars from their pieces to use on my Falcon gasser.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have a 55 project in the works I am going to radius the rear wheel openings and call it good. My last 57 project the rear wheel openings required a little more work to accommodate a 28" tall tire they were sectioned and stretched 4" with the rear end moved back 1" no one ever caught it. Rear bumper was almost at stock height with the lower height the car settled down quick after launch and stayed straight at 120+:


The car had a Speedway axle kit the only complaint is the steering arm flexed to much especially with the provided spacer the arm needs to be strengthened and reengineered:


Blew By You, best traction bars:
 
#13 ·
I personally think Speedway doesn't use large enough tubing for their tie rod or drag links. A 1" OD tube is just not large enough for the width of a full size car like a Tri Five Chevy. I use 1.25" tubing for both tie rod and drag link on larger vehicles.
On something tiny with the narrower axle like my Austin, an Anglia, etc., the 1.1" tubing is shorter and wont flex. That 1.1" on a longer length can be the source of flexing and "death wobble".
 
#16 ·
I talked to a chassis shop this weekend about doing a cage for me. I discussed ladder bars with him while I had him on the phone. I am just going to have him build me a set of ladder bars. He seemed very knowledgeable on the subject, he was talking about wheelbase and camshaft centerline formula to get the length of the ladder bars, way over my head.

For the guys saying that they like the '56, so do I, but I could not afford to buy the whole thing so I split the cost with my Dad and he is keeping the body. It is going back on a stock frame to be built for my Mom. If I didn't have my 56 BelAir to build I would do some swapping and keep the body.

I will have to take a look at my centerlink and see what size it is, it is not speedways, but it might be too small anyways.

Stewartwhite I love your '57
 
#19 ·
Hey Doug, it will be sweet if you build a two door too! I think our wagons made a major impression on everyone with how many runs we made. I am secretly hoping on pulling the gasser on a trailer behind the wagon next year, but then I have to solve the problem of where to sleep!
 
#21 ·
Guy is supposed to come pick up the Malibu tomorrow, I have everything I want removed and cash is in hand. Hopefully going to pick up a one piece floor pan next week. Does anyone here know what is involved to make the quarter glass fixed like a utility sedan?
 
#23 ·
Went a picked up my new one piece floor last week. Cleaned and organized all the parts I took off of the Malibu. My dad and I have a three way frame/floor swap project coming up soon, that will have my car on my frame when it is all finished.
1. My dad is building a '57 150 right now, and also has a rough 57 Bel Air we bought that has a one piece floor under it and a restored frame with pocketed leafs. We need to take the original frame out from under the 150 and cut the floor out. Then take the Bel Air off of it's floor and frame and set the body on some sort of cart. Set the 150 body on the nice floor and frame.
2. Take the 56 210 off of the straight axle frame and set it on the '57 150 frame to keep it a roller until it's turn.
3. Paint the straight axle frame and bolt my new floor to it. Get my car, which is not currently on a frame and attach it to my frame and floor.

4. Install, big block, plumbing, wiring, glass, interior and go gasser racing! easy peasy right? Ha!
 
#24 ·
Well I had a very good progress day last Friday on the gasser project. We have been working on Dad's 150 lately and recently got the body dropped on the new floor and frame. So Friday morning I got his '57 rolled out and brought in the 56 210. I got all of the body mounts removed quickly and had my straight axle frame liberated. I then rolled the original frame to Dad's 57 150 under the 56 210 so it can be moved around until we start on it. After I completed that I moved outside, where my '57 body has been stored sitting on some power poles. I set up a metal a frame over the body and lifted it up with some heavy duty straps and chain come-along. After I had it lifted I backed up a metal trailer made from an old pop-up camper frame under it and lowered it down on that. I now have both the body and frame right outside of the shop and ready to be worked on. My plan from here is to modify the trailer with temporary mounts to hold the body in place while I weld in rockers, patch the toe boards, and other necessary patching needed before I can attach it to the new floor.
 

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#25 ·
I have it in the shop and on the lift and am starting the metal replacement process. Last night we made our body cart/jig, We ended and decided to just weld a rusty 55 frame to the trailer so that we could have all of the body mounts and use it to do floor swaps also. I also threw a fender on to get a quick feel on how it will look, one word Awesome!
 

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#26 ·
Married the body with the new straight axle chassis last night. This body came as a parts car with some other 57's we bought a few years back. When we got the body it was not on a frame just sitting on the ground on the floor pans. It was deemed unbuildable by many, but a few hours patching toe boards, inner quarters, trunk floor and sidewalls, and a new one piece floor and the car is complete once again. I went with the theory that it doesn't have to be pretty, or even right, just as long as it's solid. Who knows how long it has been since it has sat on a frame or rolled?
 

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#28 ·
I think she definitely sighed with relief. I wish I had a body as nice as your gasser body, but I like all 57 150's
 
#29 ·
I did a little mocking up last night to try and determine what wheel and tire size I need to go with as well as rear end size. I initially tried my 15x10 slot pictured earlier in this thread with a used 28x10.5x15 slick. It was obvious that to use those the wheel well would need to be radiused. Although it would be common to have this done for a gasser I cannot bring myself to cut mine. So the second thing I tried was my Dad's 15x7 slot with the same slick, that is the setup seen in the attached picture. I really like that look, so I am currently looking for a set of 15x8 or 15x8.5 slots in good condition. If anyone here has any that they would like to get rid of let me know.
 

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#34 ·
Let me do some checking and get back to you. Thanks for looking Bruce.
 
#35 ·
Good news and bad news. Good news is that I finished welding the floor in on Friday and started the engine and trans mockup. Fooled around with that a little until I was happy with it and welded the motor mount cradle and trans mount brackets in place. Last night I pulled the motor and trans back out to finish all the welds on the mounts and I was going to clean and paint the engine and drop it back in. I starting draining the oil so I could pull the pan to paint it and install my new one piece oil pan gasket and what came out was not pretty. I have a magnetic drain plug and there was lots of metal on it, including some thin shiny slivers that I am not sure what they are. Basically at least looking at an engine freshening if not more. My budget that was stretched thin is now completely busted. I am thinking about putting my motorcycle up for sale and using those funds to fix the motor, but it depends on what I find when I get it apart.
 
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