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Old 07-03-2012, 04:49 PM   #21
bigdee47
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Default 5/8 offset

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Originally Posted by cpptech View Post
So your 5/8" is after adding the 1/4" wheel spacers as well.
That's right, but also after putting in inner bearings that fit against the spindle boss and sinking the bearing and seal 1/16th.

David
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:00 PM   #22
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Geez, all this and you essentially just made your kit into a Chevelle rotor kit, which is 7/8" AND clears original 15" wheels. Chevelle rotor kit would have been safer without spacers and less money too. Bad bearings, crooked brackets, my God.
Some of my club buddies suggested this going in, but others convinced me that this CPP kit was the way to go for the lowest offset. I got close to what I wanted to begin with, and feel safe with 1/4 inch steel spacers, machined to be a close fit.

One of the guys, who's been messing with Chevys since forever, warned me that no matter what I did, it was going to be a crap shoot, and I'd have to fix and/or change something with plenty of experimentation thrown in. I just got caught up in all the "bolts right on" poopie-cacca.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:33 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by nunu View Post
Geez, all this and you essentially just made your kit into a Chevelle rotor kit, which is 7/8" AND clears original 15" wheels. Chevelle rotor kit would have been safer without spacers and less money too. Bad bearings, crooked brackets, my God.

Its a nice day outside AGAIN nunu! You should go work on your car!

As for clearance with 15" wheels the only kit I have ever seen clear stock wheels is the old style 10.5" drop spindle brake kits and even that was VERY close to the rivet in the wheel.
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Classic Performance Products Inc.
378 E Orangethorpe Ave
Placentia, Ca. 92870
www.classicperform.com
714/522-2000 ext. 125

Have you received CPP’s 2016 Product Catalog? Our newest catalog is now available and features full-color images, technical information and hundreds of new parts for your classic GM or Ford trucks and cars. To receive one, please email with your name and address so we can get one out to you ASAP!
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by cpptech View Post
Its a nice day outside AGAIN nunu! You should go work on your car!

As for clearance with 15" wheels the only kit I have ever seen clear stock wheels is the old style 10.5" drop spindle brake kits and even that was VERY close to the rivet in the wheel.
You should spend more time working on these cars. The 11" Chevelle rotor kit clears 15" original wheels, I would have thought you would know this, but then maybe not.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:43 AM   #25
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Wink calipers and rotors installed

Because I promised to report when I was "done," and because someone might still be interested, here's the last update to this long thread and probably the last for awhile from me.

The problem with the pads seeming to be not parallel to the rotor face was changed by just taking off the caliper support bracket and scraping down the mating surfaces with a pocket knife. There's a tiny amount of friction now, but not enough to worry about. I expect it to go away quickly after a couple of stops. So I was alarmed over something that turned out to be insignificant.

There is another little irritation in design: the stainless flex line attaches to the caliper next to the lower float pin. To get a wrench on the float pin to change the pads, one has to set the banjo fitting perpendicular to the frame, causing the line to rub on the frame when turning. If the fitting points to rear, the line is free to move without rubbing, but would have to be loosened every time you change the pads. So I just clamped some split rubber hose over the line in the spot that will rub. The other option would be to turn the banjo fitting so that it points toward the front of the car, but then the line would be close to the a-arms and the spring, and worse, the turning action would encourage the banjo fitting to work loose. Am I missing something here?

Finally, I "discovered" something the rest of you probably already know, but maybe not. Apparently the '56 15 inch rims were welded, and the '55 15 inch rims were riveted. What rubs on the caliper is not the rivets, but the edge of four protrusions on the inner piece where it is riveted or welded. And these protrusions are not as long on the one riveted wheel that I have. All the others (5) came with my '56, and they all clear now by 1/16 of an inch. The riveted rim clears by about 1/8th.

Cheers and thanks, everyone. I'll start another thread when I get to the booster and master cylinder.

David

ps The 1/4 inch steel spacers cost $120 to have machined, but they fit like gloves.

Last edited by bigdee47; 07-18-2012 at 10:51 PM..
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:47 AM   #26
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Welcome to the world of SUPPOSEDLY bolt on after market products brother

I feel your pain my friend, 1 year later i just about have everything taken care of, or working properly on my supposedly bolt on 2" drop spindles kit with disc brakes and a 8" dual brake booster & master cylinder kit from Performance On Line. The last problem I have had is the booster is faulty (they have sent me a second one with the same exact problem) and does not return the brake pedal the last half of a inch to turn off the brake light switch. So after a year of going round & round with P.O.L. , i finally just installed a in line pressure switch on the brake line to turn on & off my brake lights. I will run the booster until it finally takes a crap, and then i will use it for target practice for my 357 and buy a new one from a better manufacture like CPP or Heits.

Needles to say i have also replaced the Chinese version of wheel bearings, races & brake pads on 57 within the first 500 hundred miles with the P.O.L. kit

If you get bored, here is some reading material for ya, and you can see the frustrations i have gone threw also, trust me when i say you are not the only having issues with the supposedly bolt on after market world..
https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65766

Well out to the garage to change out my leaky transmision pan with a new one i just purchased from Summit Racing, we will see if my SUPPOSEDLY new tranny pan leaks just as bad as my old one



Rick
Hello

I have problems with my booster too,brake pedel will not go back all way.
Its from CPP 8".
Have any one some solution for that problem?
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Old 11-09-2014, 02:21 PM   #27
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Default Ccp front disk kit

I just discovered that I, m not the only one having trouble with the ccp front power brakes. Ibought my 57 150 sedan about 2 months ago. It just driver quality and I opted out of a frame off resto and just wanted to make the car more drivable . When I asked a mechanic what brake kit to get he said ccp. So i got the kit and had it installed. All I did was drive it home and notice the brake lights didn, t turn off. SO Iadjusted the brake light switch so I t does turn off.Yesterday I took the car to get some new tires. ON the way I felt something draging. I thought maybe the e brake was stuck. But at the tire store the said it was the front brakes wich are brand new stuck on half way and not releasing. Also they said the brakes were getting incredably hot. I asked them to fix it but they don, t work on any thing after market or modified. Corporate policy. So I drove the car home about ten miles. And half way there the front brakes were smoking. When I arrived home. I tried to touch one of the disks but I couldn, t put my hand on it , It was like touching the burner on a stove. There was also a foul burning smell. The car is now undrivable and the brake lights are now stuck on again . I miss my old drum brakes they were better . Tomorrow I, m gonna give that mechanic and CCP a piece of my mind.
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:43 AM   #28
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Couple of possibilities going on here. When you said you got a kit do you mean master and booster along with brakes or just one or the other? Just rough guess but it sounds like maybe the vacuum is holding the brakes on, one causing the brake pedal to suck in and get th brake lights on and causing the pads to contact the rotors. I would try to drive it without the vacuum line hooked to the booster with the vacuum line plugged. See if the brake lights stay on, if it does then its probably something else. Check back after that.
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Old 11-12-2014, 01:46 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by 4onthefloor View Post
I just discovered that I, m not the only one having trouble with the ccp front power brakes. Ibought my 57 150 sedan about 2 months ago. It just driver quality and I opted out of a frame off resto and just wanted to make the car more drivable . When I asked a mechanic what brake kit to get he said ccp. So i got the kit and had it installed. All I did was drive it home and notice the brake lights didn, t turn off. SO Iadjusted the brake light switch so I t does turn off.Yesterday I took the car to get some new tires. ON the way I felt something draging. I thought maybe the e brake was stuck. But at the tire store the said it was the front brakes wich are brand new stuck on half way and not releasing. Also they said the brakes were getting incredably hot. I asked them to fix it but they don, t work on any thing after market or modified. Corporate policy. So I drove the car home about ten miles. And half way there the front brakes were smoking. When I arrived home. I tried to touch one of the disks but I couldn, t put my hand on it , It was like touching the burner on a stove. There was also a foul burning smell. The car is now undrivable and the brake lights are now stuck on again . I miss my old drum brakes they were better . Tomorrow I, m gonna give that mechanic and CCP a piece of my mind.
Call me at 800-522-5004 and I would be happy to go over a few things with you on your kit.
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Aaron Strietzel
[email protected]
Classic Performance Products Inc.
378 E Orangethorpe Ave
Placentia, Ca. 92870
www.classicperform.com
714/522-2000 ext. 125

Have you received CPP’s 2016 Product Catalog? Our newest catalog is now available and features full-color images, technical information and hundreds of new parts for your classic GM or Ford trucks and cars. To receive one, please email with your name and address so we can get one out to you ASAP!
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Old 11-12-2014, 07:08 PM   #30
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[QUOTE

I wish I had discovered this forum seven years ago. I really feel for the guys out in farm country in the midwest, who might have to drive several hours to get to a parts or hardware store, and who depend on mail order service. Today, in the space of a few hours, and within 3 miles of my house, I did all of the above, plus getting one of my club buddies (retired sheet metal worker) to come over and take a look. I live in Sonoma County, in Northern Calif, and I'll bet there is a higher concentration of old car activity here than almost anywhere else in the country. .

David[/QUOTE]


David, thank your lucky stars you don't live in rural Alaska like I do, I have to have everything shipped up here and man can that get expensive. Often I order a $100-$200 part and the shipping is nearly equal to the purchase price.

Although I cant prove it I swear when a vendor sees the Alaska address they pick and choose the crappiest parts they have on the shelf and ship them knowing I probably won't return them because of the cost involved.

Also gets me is when they say WILL NOT SHIP TO ALASKA like I live in some foreign country.

Another one that gets me is a vendor will ship something all the way across the lower 48, coast to coast for free, but when I ask to them to deduct said cost from what they want to charge me to ship something up here all I get is we can't do that.

Ok I'm done venting.... I love Alaska, even our short cruising season.

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