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ladder bar

6K views 18 replies 6 participants last post by  1971BB427 
#1 ·
can the pivot point of the ladder bars be attach closer to the center by way of a crossmember instead of directly to the chassis? but still keep the attachment to the axle out toward the wheels?

i assume this would give the axle more up and down movement but still keep the axle center and prevent twisting and wheel hop?

my model A rear is set up this way as most with ladder bars are. so just a thought if it would work with our tri five.
 
#2 ·
I'm not certain I understand the description? It sounds like you're asking if the ladder bars can be narrower at the front mounting point than they are at the rear axle point? If I understand correctly, then my answer is yes. But with a stipulation that you don't go too close together. In fact the more the front moves inward, the better the rear axle will handle uneven surfaces. But as the mounts move inward in front, you do loose a small amount of rigidity and traction control, so I wouldn't want to go in more than 6"-8" on each side. Too far in and it ends up being like a wishbone front axle on an early Ford.
 
#5 ·
A johnny joint is basically a heim joint with urethane around it that is greasable and Art Morrison sells a real nice one. What happens is when you go in and out of driveways moving the ladder bars in towards the center of the car and the rear end pivots it binds a normal rod end and causes the jam nuts to get loose and they rattle like crazy on the threads.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I use heim joints that are greaseable, but the ones with urethane are not my preference. They are quieter, but wear quicker. The greaseable heim will last a long time and not get loose as quickly.
The chromoly /Teflon Kevlar are a much better choice, and last a long time. Almost double the cost of a regular heim. For as little miles as my hotrods get the greaseable are the best option for me.

I agree on the panhard. Regardless of whether the ladder bars are parallel or not, I'd always use a panhard bar.
 
#7 ·
Not pushing the Johnny Joints but I do suggest you space your ladder bar mounts an inch and 7/8 apart to the inside just in case you want to add them latter. The 2 cars in the photo's have been upgraded to these and the drivability has been greatly improved. The upgrade is less than $100 if you do it when you do the car. This is what Art Morrison says about these joints: Johnny Joint-Developed by Currie Enterprises and originally made for the 4WD market, the Johnny Joint is a fairly new offering in our suspension lineup. The Johnny Joint is made up of a forged steel body and a heat-treated pivot that is surrounded by polyurethane. Rebuildable and externally greasable through a zerk fitting, the Johnny Joint is very maintenance friendly. This is a great combination of a high articulation spherical rod end with the harmonic dampening of a poly rod end. Perfect for high performance street and track day vehicles where comfort, strength and performance are a priority. These rod ends fit a lot of different suspension applications . Because of their size they might need some extra clearance for retro-fit applications.
 

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#10 ·
Interesting timing, I just a had a discussion with Val and got his input about Johnny Joints for ladder bars on a coil over set up. The joint design is a spherical that allows 30 degrees of misalignment for street driving especially when making turns and driving on uneven services. The guys down at Valley Spring introduced me to the product.

S&W has some nice ladder bars I am fabbing up a pair like the Blew By You, badass 56. I don't see you car at the Summit any more parked next to all the Bimmers and Mercedes?

 
#11 ·
I'll look into Jim Meyers and S&w, has anyone heard of auto weld chassis?

I just finished restoring a Vette and have been driving it around, workin out all the kinks. It's been in the paint shop since February. I have been driving my Chevy the last month. I have a stalker at the summit wanting to buy the Chevy, on Saturday he followed me and pulled up next to me to give me his card. Tho I think about the money and that I can always get another, the timing and work is no pick nick.
 
#15 ·
I'd guess it's to save money on their build. Can't imagine not having all three points adjustable on ladder bars myself. It allows adjustment of pinion angle, and also length to ensure the wheels are perfectly centered. It also allows me to tune the suspension a bit.
In addition to heim ends, I also like inline adjusters on one of the rear legs, so adjustments can be made without dropping the ladder bar mounting bolts.
 
#17 ·
I keep hearing about how expensive the Johnny Joints are, they are $55.00 ea. You probably pay $35.00 for a good spherical rod end. Maybe you have never had the problem, but I have had 7 cars with ladder bars and I have had problems with the jam nuts coming loose going in and out of driveways on the spherical rod ends and the poly bushed ends are even worse. I have even had on my Sons car that they came loose so many times they wore the threads on the ladder bars. He has a 53 chevy gasser that he drives 70 miles to the drag strip, and drives to work every day in the summer. The extra travel of the Johnny Joint eliminates that problem. Just my 2 cents.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Well I pay way less than $55 or $35 for good heim joints. Last ones I bought were greasable and under $15 each. I have not had issues with any jam nuts working loose, but I put all my suspension threaded components together with non hardening Loctite. I learned long ago not to trust jam nuts on suspension components.
 
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