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Another P.O. Gotcha !! To add to the list.....

3K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  BamaNomad 
#1 ·
It seems like I can’t get past the “small” but annoying issues I find the Previous Owner sent along with this wagon. I enjoy the car, and have learned to just accept the fact that I did not build it, which was an age related decision.
Still trying to get the ride a bit less harsh. A shop suggested that often the shocks can be too stiff, and it’s an inexpensive thing to try some different shocks.
I got 4 shocks, mounted the fronts OK,.......... the Rear shocks, Well that’s a bit of a problem. The PO put nice looking linoleum in the back, and failed to cut out the Upper shock mount access holes. No cover plates. Looks nice, But not good.
The top shock mounts are still using the OEM cross structure. I don’t think the plywood is original, so likely that is a solid piece also. I have pushed in areas that should be hollow, and no linoleum flex, like over a hole. Thanks Buddy,..What to do ??
 

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#3 ·
Rear Shocks

If it were me, I would recommend installing a rear shock mount bar. You might be able to cut the bottom of the shock box to remove the shock (won't need it after the bar is installed). I welded in the new shock mount bar, but I think you can get bolt in ones for the wagon as well. It is said that they help with the ride noise and harshness from the shocks working against the floor pan, rather than the frame like they should. I can post a picture of mine, if you like.

Regards,
John
 
#4 · (Edited)
The previous owner obviously only built that car to *sell*, without any consideration for future maintenance (like replacing shocks)... :(

Adding a shock bar is a good idea, but it's still going to be a problem removing the old shock without opening up the linoleum! If it were my car, I'd use the attached diagram to find what should be the center of the original opening, and drill a 'test hole' of maybe 1" diameter in the center of the area for the opening. Then you can 'adjust' the location if necessary and drill a larger hole (2" hole saw?) so you can access the top nut for the shock for removal. I would suggest installing a grommet in that hole for the shock afterwards to seal it up. At that point you can now use the stock 'shock cover plates' as a template to place over the holes you've cut and mark the outside of the plate for cutting out the linoleum. Then remove the linoleum, place the cover plate where the linoleum is cut out, and install the plate screws into the wood to secure it. That will at least allow removal of the shocks, allow sealing of the space, and allow you to replicate the original 'appearance' in the cargo space.

Then once you install the new shock bar and install good shocks, you'll be good to go.

Alternative1: Leave the stiffer shocks in the rear and just replace the front shocks to soften the ride...

Alternative2: Once you are able to access the top of the shocks to remove, you also have the option to replace the rear shocks also accessing via the factory shock cover plates. (but the shock bar is a GOOD modification to add to your car when you get opportunity).
 

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#5 ·
I would also recommend the shock bar. It solves the issue of top access, and long term it will also save the floor from fractures due to the stress. A cheap way GM did it back then.

Mikey
 
#7 ·
The shock bar does sound like a good idea. Even more so if it also helps with cutting back the road noise transmitted to the floor pan. Of course now that I can’t stop thinking about the boom / BAM as the front and then the rear hits a road crack, I’m going to have to deal with it. Thanks for the links and diagrams.
 
#9 ·
Any chance the plywood could be raised up?
It appears the side trim is on w/ screws.
 
#11 ·
Note and CAUTION to the OP: Sometimes it's necessary to *remove* the shock pockets from the floor of a wagon to make space for the shock bar, so you should check for space between the frame rails for the shock bar before proceeding.

The shock pockets are reinforced with heavy metal and cutting thru all that can be a chore, AND the holes would need to be *sealed* somehow to prevent road splash from coming thru the area to the cargo wood and interior. When I removed the shock pockets from my current Nomad project, I 'sealed' the area with flat metal from above, but without removing the cargo wood/linoleum that would be impossible and sealing from below might prove to be a significant issue... ?

If the shock pockets are in good shape, it might be best to add the shock cover plates above and access to the top shock mounts and just replace the shocks where they are (until you are prepared to remove the cargo wood)??
 
#13 ·
That's a valid point. However, I was able to weld in the Williams round shock bar with the body in place, using the empty floorpan holes as a guide. There is plenty of room for the top of the shock without hitting the bottom of the shock pocket. Here is a picture of mine. I have the shocks mounted now, but I don't have any pictures.

Let me know if you need any more info on what I did. Good luck with your project!

Regards,
John





 
#12 ·
It seems like I can’t get past the “small” but annoying issues I find the Previous Owner sent along with this wagon. I enjoy the car, and have learned to just accept the fact that I did not build it, which was an age related decision.
56junkie,

I am in the same boat...I've had my my 56 for almost two years, and I am still finding the PO 'gotchas'....Hang in there and good luck!
 
#14 ·
John,

That's a great photo showing your shock bar installed which is surely to help the OP in his efforts!

Does your shock bar 'touch' the shock pockets in the body? from the photo it appears it's very close? There shouldn't be a lot of movement between body and frame, but it might make some noise at times if it's touching (or extremely close)? Have you installed a grommet? or otherwise sealed up shock holes in the original shock pockets? It's good to do so.
 
#15 ·
BamaNomad,
No, there is quite a bit of clearance. I'll try to measure it and let you/OP know. It's on my hoist right now, so it's pretty easy to check out. I haven't sealed the hole yet, but I'll probably just stick a grommet in there...

Regards,
John
 
#16 · (Edited)
Earl Williams Shock Bar

I installed one of Earle Williams' wagon shock bars into my '55 210 2-door wagon. It is a fine product and when you call them Earle answers the phone. That man knows these cars front to back and inside out. The shock bar was well made and a bargain. I cut the pockets out of my floor as it was on a rotisserie but as has been said, there's probably plenty of room.
It's going to be a job with the body on the chassis, but it'll be the end of your problems.

www.williamsclassic.com
 
#17 ·
M1Lover,
I really like the way you did your tailpipes. The P.O. put dumps on mine, right in front of the axle. I've been scratching my head about how to route them around the shocks, axle, gas tank, etc. This may give me a better option. Did you fab them up yourself?

Regards,
John

 
#18 ·
This may be a dumb suggestion, but I don't know how the set up is configured. Can't the plywood simply be removed and modified correctly? If you can put it in you should be able to take it out too.
 
#19 ·
David,
The wood is screwed down to the metal floor under it, in about a dozen places. The linoleum/carpet is then glued down over it. The trim long the sides is easy to remove, but not the linoleum/carpet without ripping it, to locate/remove the screws needed to then remove the plywood.

Not as easy as lifting the trunk rubber mat in a standard passenger car.

Mikey
 
#20 ·
I have a plan to address that problem, as well as eliminating the possibility of the tips of sheet metal screws sticking thru the floor.

I'm planning to 1) Locate the proper positioning of the cargo wood, 2) drill holes thru the wood in areas I can access from underneath the floor, then install stainless T-nuts (1/4-20-7/16") from the top side of the wood (which will lock solidly into the wood and flush with the top of the cargo wood), using stainless button head screws 5/8" ? from the bottom will secure the cargo wood to the floor, and then linoleum (or carpet, etc) can be installed over the top. In the future, should I desire to remove the cargo wood (with linoleum in place), I can remove the screws from the bottom of the floor. I will also be able to work under the floor without being scratched/stabbed by sheet metal screws protruding thru the floor!
 
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