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Transmission and DriveLine Questions
Ask all your Transmission and DriveLine Questions. Tranmission, Drives shaft, Rear End, Gears, etc
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:51 AM   #11
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Thanks I was looking for that calc, but I could not find the one that gave me the ratios in the 700r.

I think the 2200-2400 would be about perfect for the setup I have. I guess it will come down to which tires I end up deciding on.

I was looking at the 235/70/15 BFG's for all 4 corners. But I have to make sure they are going to fit without rubbing.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:49 AM   #12
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For "lots of long highway runs" I would prefer around 2000 rpm at 70mph with a "mild" 350 ci. engine. 3.36 is probably the best. By "mild" I would define that as having a cam with a broad power band and headers with a cross-over pipe for more low-end torque.

No way a 3.36 is a "pig" around town either with the 3.06 first gear that a 700R4 has. The fist gear multiplication is 10.28 and would be equivalent to a Turbo 350 with a 4.08 rear gear.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:20 AM   #13
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If you have the housing from a 60 chevy, you have the latest and strongest version of the 55-64 center sections, 60-64 being the stronger of the years. If it is a P case (Posi) then even better. Take a pass on rebuilding a three series posi. Its not really worth the expense. Nitro sells new spiders, cross shafts and side gears (updated design) for a little more then $300 plus shipping, when they are available. NOS 10 disc clutch packs are in the 125-200 range, replacement aftermarket a speck less (http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...50e&ukey=31188). So lets call it like 425 at the low end plus shipping, and you still have to take it all apart and rebuild it.

4 series units are a different story only because there are both reproduction and replacement 3 series posi units available but no repro or replacements for a four series. Mine is a four series posi so I rebuilt mine (although you can still get the spacer to use a four series gear on a three series posi which may be another alternative).

New posi units come in three flavors. All of them in the $500 range. Nitro builds the reproduction of the original Dana 44 style posi.

http://www.nitro-gear.com/category-s/1806.htm

Eaton's version is really their later 10 bolt posi but built for installation in a 55-64 center section.

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/196...FZCEswodvxsNbw

Both of the above are rebuildable.

Finally, there is the Auburn posi, a cone style posi.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...FUlYDQodTPsNsQ

They are all very good units. So for like $75 more you get the whole thing all built and ready to bolt in.

I think a 3:55 gear is a terrific all around gear btw. I think a new gear set is in the neighborhood of 275 or so with bearings and all of the shims, crush collar, ring gear bolts, pinion nut (yes use a new one, the are a special nut deformed from the get go to lock in place and are a one use only item), pinion seal and marking compound is about 80-100 or so.

Other stuff for the rear. You can get forged axles from Southwest Chevy. I have a pair on the way for my car.

http://www.southeastchevyparts.com/D...ea_c_66-2.html

Billet bearing retainers. Yes pricey but some of the older members will remember when Anson, Eelco and some other manufacturers use to sell what they called safety bearing retainers for the 55-64 rear. Really, they were an aluminum casting that I think just installed over the stock retainers, or maybe they replaced them altogether, I forget now. I last saw a set probably 25-30 years ago at the Englishtown Raceway swap meet and did not grab them just to hang on the wall, lol. They were sold to help keep the axle bearing from pushing out, bending the stock sheet metal retainer, and causing a leak from the o-ring movement. Today, we have a billet version. Yes, I managed to save enough pennies and now have a set on hand ready for install on my new forged axles. I have to admit they are pretty nice.

https://tri-5weecrafted.com/collecti...ucts/cool-cage

If you are really looking for a project to tinker with you can obtain and install a rear cap girdle/strap kit (a few of us on this site have installed the kit, its a neat project.)

http://www.bruneauperformance.ca/cam...gsrockers.html

image.jpg

This is my install.

Keeping the stock rear is not for everyone, but it is for some of us, me included.
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:44 AM   #14
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Default Cross-over pipe

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?..a cross-over pipe for more low-end torque.
I realize this thread is about gearing, but I wanted to share my agreement to Roger's statement about a cross-over pipe. In my Dad's jargon, a balance pipe is one of those additions that works. Talk about bang for the buck. Upon adding one that passed under the flywheel area, the bottom end torque seat-of-the-pants feel was evident just leaving the exhaust shop.

Ours had to go under the flywheel as it's a convertible and there's no room anywhere else. The pipe was added to kill drone at certain engine speeds. And it did soften the drone.
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:47 AM   #15
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I have this mint 1963 ,3.36 posi for sale if interested and can be shipped.

https://treasure.craigslist.org/pts/6119104110.html
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:13 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the info,

My definition of pig may be a bit broad, I do not mean its bad, but it is after all a hotrod After driving around with 2.88's with a 700r, I do not want to repeat that experience!

I do have an H pipe, and by mild 350, I mean in the 250-275hp range I did not build the engine so I have no idea whats in it.

Okay so 3.55 with a posi is an option. Again this is pretty much the same combo I have in my 23T. Though its a 3.53 in a jag rear.

I have a local shop up here that has some pumpkins with different gear sets, hopefully we can work something out.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:46 PM   #17
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I run a 57 Olds 9.3 with a 3.42 and a 700r4 it works very well. I think both 3.36 and 3.55 would both be good choices and would let price and availability determine choice.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:43 AM   #18
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Just make sure if you're zipping down the road at modern speeds, you have modern tires and brakes. I was just at the syracuse nationals this weekend and watched a guy almost lose his 40s Ford trying to change lanes on a damp highway at 70mph. Holy crap it was scary to watch.
Safety first guys.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
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I run a 57 Olds 9.3 with a 3.42 and a 700r4 it works very well. I think both 3.36 and 3.55 would both be good choices and would let price and availability determine choice.
Just to back you up, I have 2 similar and what I consider perfect combos.

First, an '83 El Camino SS with a stock '96 LT1 engine and a 4L60e with 26" tires and 3.42 posi gears. My gosh this will smoke 'em off the line.

Second is a '57 Chevy truck with a stock 305 TPI and a 700R4 with 3.54 posi gears with 29" tires. It will smoke the tires off the line too.
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Old 07-20-2017, 10:05 PM   #20
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Well turns out a guy in the club had a pot with a mint set of 3.36 gears in it. Not posi, but its to clean to not use. Has all the markings of being rebuilt, but I will have it checked out prior to installation.

That should put me in the 2100 range for cruising.

I can always rebuild the one coming out with the 3.73 and posi if I feel like being a little silly.

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