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Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc

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Old 07-17-2017, 09:10 AM   #11
finallyhavea57

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Hey Rick! Just a side note that my 78' Vette has the proportion valve mounted down under the master cylinder as well.

Don
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finallyhavea57 View Post
Hey Rick! Just a side note that my 78' Vette has the proportion valve mounted down under the master cylinder as well.

Don
OK Don!!! Thanks

Does your 78 have the same looking M/C, and would assume the vet is disc/ disc?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Churchkey View Post
MC should have a casting # on it for identification.

Post the # I'll check my cross reference info & let you know what it fits.
I will see if i can find the casting # tonight, but as you can tell from the pic I used POR 15 on the M/C, so i am not so sure it will be readable
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:08 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=maddogs1965;1918867]OK Don!!! Thanks

Does your 78 have the same looking M/C, and would assume the vet is disc/ disc?


It had one that looked the same. I was having such a difficult time bleeding my new calipers on the rear that I ordered this one and installed it. Notice that it has bleeders on the M/C.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Problem with bleeding my calipers was my vacuum pump was not enough. Needed to do the brake pedal pump as well.

And yes, it is disc /disc.

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Old 07-17-2017, 10:15 AM   #14
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Thanks Don!!

Looks like we have figured out the M/C is for sure out of a vet, the rest is up to me to figure out the bore size after work tonight.

The last thing i want on Maddie (or any other vehicle for that fact) is BRAKE FAILURE!!

I like my brake pedal hard and the top, none of this half way down travel crap before they start working
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:23 PM   #15
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On the C2/C3 Corvette, 1" bore is manual brakes, and 1-1/8" bore is power brakes.

Manual brake master cylinders would have a deep pushrod cup. Power brake master cylinders could be either depending on the year possibly. Don't know about Corvettes, but cars from the late 60s with power brakes had deep cups too, but by the 70s had shallow pushrod cups.

Your problem could easily be in those pesky rear calipers also. The same arrangement is used in the Caddy and Trans Am rear calipers which are often used in disc brake conversions. I think you can still get rebuilt calipers, core charge is really high but you have some.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Pedal travels far towards the floorboard-it's very most likely a 1" bore. A 1" bore will travel much farther and will be softer then the 1 1/8"
Not sure i agree with this assessment of the feel between bore sizes. I had a 1 1/8" bore on mine. When i changed it out for a chromed m/c i was advised to go to a 1" bore. I argued with the vendor due to everything i had read on here. In the end i went ahead and went with the suggested 1" bore. The brakes are much better than they were with the 1 1/8" bore. And it has good pedal.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:48 PM   #17
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I came home tonight and removed the M/C

MY GUT FEELING WAS CORRECT, THE M/C CYLINDER IS JUNK.

When you find this crap behind the piston in-between the M/C and brake booster, it is a true sign the rear reservoir, which is hooked up the the front brakes is leaking internally and weeping out the back of the M/C.



This as after i wiped the piston down with a shop rag....




So after some measuring, the M/C that is in the Nomad wright now does have a 1" bore piston, and what looks like to me the shallow hole in the end of the piston for the brake booster rod.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Churchkey View Post
MC should have a casting # on it for identification.

Post the # I'll check my cross reference info & let you know what it fits.
Churchkey...

I tried to scrape away the paint as much as possible, but the casting #'S are hard to read, but you can clearly read MADE IN THE USA.

So that tells me the M/C is most likely from the 60's or 70's since all the JUNK we get now is made in China...

From what i can read it looks like the casting # is 28969 ??



Quote:
Originally Posted by chevman57 View Post
Not sure i agree with this assessment of the feel between bore sizes. I had a 1 1/8" bore on mine. When i changed it out for a chromed m/c i was advised to go to a 1" bore. I argued with the vendor due to everything i had read on here. In the end i went ahead and went with the suggested 1" bore. The brakes are much better than they were with the 1 1/8" bore. And it has good pedal.
Terry
Terry!

I am BUY NO MEANS a brake expert, but from what i have been taught and read, i would tend to agree with you. A 1 1/8" will push more fluid, were as a 1" bore will push more pressure do to the smaller bore.

BUT... and there is always a BUT I went from a disc/drum set up on my 65 L.C. which is a rock crawler running 36" tires to a disc/disc set up, and the M/C i was running out of a stock Toyota 4X4 truck did not have enough WAVOS to operate the disc/disc set up. So i had to find a M/C out of a Toyota L.C. Wagon that had a bigger bore M/C, and i installed a inline 2# residual valve in the rear discs with a adjustable perportioning valve with a pressure gauge, and i can lock those 36" tires up like butter
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:05 PM   #18
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personally If it was me I would first re-do the tubing to make the front of the cylinder do the front brakes. then I would throw away the combo valve and put in an in line adjustable prop valve to the rear brakes. this is the standard package I do for my customers and on my cars. I would also think long and hard about changing MC sizes. if the booster works great and pedal force is super light now, I would consider going to a 1-1/8" master, but if pedal force is hard I would not go any bigger as pedal force will go up around 22% and then you may have everything working good and still not be able to lock up the brakes , then on top of that, get wore out from braking on a road trip to the Sac area.

And yes I love spending your money
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodg726 View Post
personally If it was me I would first re-do the tubing to make the front of the cylinder do the front brakes. then I would throw away the combo valve and put in an in line adjustable prop valve to the rear brakes. this is the standard package I do for my customers and on my cars. I would also think long and hard about changing MC sizes. if the booster works great and pedal force is super light now, I would consider going to a 1-1/8" master, but if pedal force is hard I would not go any bigger as pedal force will go up around 22% and then you may have everything working good and still not be able to lock up the brakes , then on top of that, get wore out from braking on a road trip to the Sac area.

And yes I love spending your money
The brake lines are staying just the way they are for the time being, i am not going to tear into it JUST before the B.G. trip in less than 3 weeks for us. I just don't have enough time to mess with it. I have been working night and day on the Nomad, enclosed car trailer and the Dmax trying to get everything done because we are SO SLAMMED AT WORK, and i will most likely be working the next couple of weekends trying to get caught up before we leave.... IS IT AUGUST THE 6TH YET

But!!!! this winter when i pull the motor out to fix the front and rear main oil leaks, i will re plumb the brake lines and install a adjustable porp valve

As far as the brake pedal pressure, the pedal is pretty soft and easy to push down, but with a internal leak in the M/C, i am not sure i am getting a correct reading on my foot
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:15 PM   #20
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Casting # is 29969

Application = 1973 to 1976 Corvette manual brakes.

Bore is 1"
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