Just installed a Cold Case radiator into my 55 in the 6 cylinder position....I also will be installing an A/C condenser in front of it in the future....The distance between the bar and the radiator is 5/8 to 3/4"....I am concerned that I will have interference between the hood latch plate and condenser....I realize that they make shortened hood latch plates for 55's...However, I see already that there will be a problem.
Has anyone experienced this thus far with a 55 Cold Case radiator in the six cylinder position with A/C? How much clearance between the bar and radiator does everyone else have with this configuration?...At this point, I see no choice but to slot the bracket attachment holes toward the front, in hopes that the radiator will move far enough to the rear.
Pops, on this particular motor from a Silverado truck the pulley looks like this. I measured the thickness of the shroud/fan package & if I cut off the knob & space the radiator out a teeny bit from the bar, it'll fit. I could swap the water pump to a car one but then I'd have to change more things. I'm beginning to think I should have used a car engine to begin with.
Here's what I have now. The fan motor clears the pulley by 1/2". As you can see from the other pic, the mounts are definitely in the wrong place. That being said, The fan shroud is made to fit them at that point. So, I'm going to drill holes & use big self tapping screws to fasten it in place. There's not enough room to through bolt them.......Since I made this post, I've completed re-drilling mounting holes, getting some #14 self tapping screws & getting the radiator back in place. It looks fine to the untutored eye, but car guys will spot the discrepancy. I'm on to the next challenge; getting the front clip pieces aligned.
There's not enough room to through bolt them.......Since I made this post, I've completed re-drilling mounting holes, getting some #14 self tapping screws & getting the radiator back in place.
If I understand you correctly Tom....I went to Ace Hardware and got some 5/16-18 "U" nuts to hold the radiator bolts in....Not sure if you could do that with the Cold Case shroud or not.
I used the #14 screws to attach the radiator to the saddle because its mounting holes no longer lined up. I like those threaded clip doodads, but there was very little room in there. It's all good, now.
Today I had a good chance to fire-up and run my ZZ4 engine with its new Cold Case radiator....I could not believe how cool it ran....The outside temp was around 75* (I believe)....At first, I thought my temperature gauge was not working, because the water temp was not rising, after what I thought was a normal amount of time....I actually was considering taking it back...However, none of the stores around me carried a suitable replacement....I decided that I would run it a little while longer and see what developed....When I did, I was able to get it up to 160* and that's it....I will have to double check what thermostat I put in there...But, I'm reasonably sure it was a 180* Stant Superstat.
Today I had a good chance to fire-up and run my ZZ4 engine with its new Cold Case radiator....I could not believe how cool it ran....The outside temp was around 75* (I believe)....At first, I thought my temperature gauge was not working, because the water temp was not rising, after what I thought was a normal amount of time....I actually was considering taking it back...However, none of the stores around me carried a suitable replacement....I decided that I would run it a little while longer and see what developed....When I did, I was able to get it up to 160* and that's it....I will have to double check what thermostat I put in there...But, I'm reasonably sure it was a 180* Stant Superstat.
Did you drill any holes in the thermostat. It doesn't take much bypass to mess up the temp. I went through 4 thermostats before I found one that settles on 180 and it's been doing that for over 20,000 miles.
I bought a Cold-Case yesterday at the Charlotte show. After talking to them, they told me that had the radiators that were seconds for $275. The rep, not sure of his name, told me that the only difference was it did not have the Cold-Case logo stamped in the lower tank. Other than that he said it was the same and had the same lifetime warranty. BUT, after going to their website it says:
CLASSIC line radiators have some minor cosmetic or fitment issues. These radiators may need minor modifications (ie; require spacers, drilling or elongating holes in the radiator support brackets) for optimal fitment. The CLASSIC radiators will perform and function just like our 1st quality radiators. Cold Case’s 60 Day Cool Guarantee applies to these radiators, along with a limited 3-year warranty.
They are supposed to ship Monday. I will call Monday morning. If the brackets are off 3/4" and only 3 year warranty, I am going to cancel the order.
Mark, that was me you met at the show. Dave(557B210) and I measured the 2nd's. Fitment is going to be fine. that disclaimer covered us for ALL the 2nd's that we have. The Trifive unit is gong to fit very nicely.
The 3 year warranty was a logistic decision we made because we're not going to be able to replace that radiator with another 2nd in a few years because we won't have any. I will go on record here in public that you have my word that we'll honor the warranty beyond the 3 years. The only thing we'd ask, is that if something happened down the road, that you pay the difference between a 2nd and a 1st pricing since you'd be getting a 1st quality radiator at that time. I really don't think you'll ever have to worry, but it's nice to know you have good options.
Yes Mark....By all means give them a call....Even with a 56, you will want to be able to move the radiator toward the bar as far back as possible....Brian, Chris and Mark are well aware of the problem.
Today I installed the hood on my Handyman & when I went to close it something prevented it. Come to find out the crossbar directly above the saddle was rubbing on the upper hose. So, I pulled out the original radiator & measured the distance from the centerline of the hose outlet to the mounting flange. It was 6.5 inches. The Coldcase radiator is 8". I have to modify the hood's crossbar a little to get some clearance. I've informed Eric at Coldcase about the discrepancy so they can make sure the next batch has the hose tube welded on in the right spot. I've learned that you should measure the new replacement parts when you first get them instead of just assuming they'll fit.
I agree. How hard would it be to find an old radiator and duplicate it, with a larger core?
If you go with a cross flow or different design, you expect to make modifications, but not with a original design.
Here's a couple of pix from this morning's hood modifications. I'm set up to do this kind of thing so spending a bunch of hours removing the radiator, sending it back, waiting, putting in the new radiator seemed fruitless so now it's in and done (unless it has a leak).
Eric at Coldcase asked me what I was going to do with the Handyman's original radiator, if I'd make it available to them for measurements. In the interest of solving this whole problem of ill fitting aftermarket radiators, I sold it to them. Now, at least there shouldn't be any more stock shaped '57 type radiators in the 6 cylinder position with installation issues.
I know this thread is a couple years old, but I’m getting ready to order one since they have a rebate going right now. Has the bracket placement been resolved to keep it close to the core support when installed in front in a 6cyl position? Would not like a big gap between the radiator and the core support.
At first I thought this was a current situation but now see this thread is 2-3 years old, probably rookie mistake by them.
If I'm doing a nice, modified car I always use Performnce Rod and Custom(PRC) radiators, best in my book, USA made although cores are usually from Canada. If just a driver then Auto City Classic, Champion or other unknown China brands, all fit properly that I have used.
As you found out that radiator in 6 cyl position has to go against the frame if you want to get a condenser in there.
No it wasn’t Ccas. I messaged him yesterday but never heard back from him. I contacted Cold Case through their online chat and asked about the Online Car Show Pricing and was instructed to call in. The sales rep said the best they could do was match what Jegs was selling it for. It’s fine ultimately. I’m not looking for anybody to give anything away. Not sure why Ccas threw it out there if it wasn’t a thing they could do.
My thought is that if the heater core leaks at 15 psi, reducing the pressure cap to 7 psi means you delay the leak a few days - no practical difference.
Well there is a practical difference. It’s more than twice the pressure. They were designed to operate in a system at 7lbs. If your tires rated at 35 psi do you run it at 70 psi? What’s the difference?
Agree...You've operated it all these years at 7 lbs.
Why push it, if you don't have to?
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