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Been "welding"(?) some.

5K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  mudflat 
#1 ·
My welding just plain sucks, and I'm really struggling with it. It seems plenty strong, but it really looks like bird crud and I'm not pleased with it at all.

Looking around on the Tube I ran across this vid. This guy doesn't impress much, but his results is what I'm after. I tried hard to keep what he does in mind while I laid my own bead, and it did help a little. Still have a long way to go though. As he says the cleaning prep and settings are vital before even starting.

You can forward to about the 2:40 mark if you want to see just the welds.

 
#6 ·
Just cause a weld looks pretty doesn’t mean its structural sound ie “stacking dimes” doesn’t mean its a good weld.

What process are you using and what machine do you have.
I only have a 110V Lincoln 100. It's good for sheetmetal but not much else. I have a friend who can do a pretty good job with it on thicker stuff though.

Another part of my problem has been with dialing in on the right settings. Through using the guide inside the lid, plus some experimentation I'm getting a little better with that part.

My problem right now is wand control and seeing the puddle. Even with a good self darkening hood I'm just guessing while trying to work the wand. The end result after just doesn't please me. In fact it sucks!
 
#7 ·
Are you using gas of flux core? What size wire? Is the polarity right for process?

What shade is your helmet set on. Should be 9-11, any darker and puddle is hard to see.

Use both hands to keep gun steady if you need to.

Most machine setting are pretty close. I usually dial on wire speed by sound of weld of need be but most settings are correct usually.

I had same basic welder and it would do 3/16” mig single pass and 1/4” with flux core.
 
#9 ·
Equipment...

Lincoln 110V 100
Lincoln .030 solid wire
75/25 gas mix
Miller Digital Elite hood set at 8
Polarity is correct, and I absolutely HAVE to use both hands.



Many people 'think' they can draw or paint beautiful pictures, but in reality only a handful actually can. When it comes to welding the same thing applies. In my case the former applies but I just want to be the best I can be. I know I'm still a mile off of that yet. My vision is getting worse, my hands shake, and my skills are far too off the mark yet.

Either a Rx helmet lens or cheaters for me to see the puddle, otherwise it’s hit and miss.
I use the strongest cheaters I have (3.0). Welding also takes talent. I'm finding that more and more, and am in awe of those that do it well.
 
#13 ·
Tried that too. Skinny wire wanders back and forth torching itself from one side to the other on an inside corner weld. Leaves bird poop all the way across even with the wire speed turned up too high.

Maybe it's something wrong with my machine, but I doubt it. Right now it seems to me that it's something wrong with ME instead.
 
#11 ·
tried to learn in HS shop class many years ago. never could get it right. one of the things i would like to try to do again, will have to put that on my bucket list(which is many pages). :gba:
 
#12 ·
Check out, on youtube, Weld tips and tricks and the fabrication series. The have good videos on mig setup and running beads. You’re not going to lay down a bead on sheet metal it just to thin. Really anything under 1/8” you’ll be stitch welding it anyway. I would get some 3/16” pieces and work on gun control. Getting the bead going and moving the gun.
 
#14 ·
Wire size, wire speed, and rate of movement of the gun all interact with regard to the amount of heat in the weld, and generally are adjusted to complement each other. In other words, wire size is something you can adjust for.

What is the thickness of your test pieces? What kind of joints (you mentioned an inside corner joint)?

What I would recommend is to get some 1/8" x 1" steel bar. First thing to do is just lay a bead in the middle of the 1" bar. Learn how to see the puddle with that simple weld. Then try lap joints, followed by butt joints. Finally try some 90° joints, weld both inside corners and outside and outside corners. Experiment with settings and technique.

Then get some 3/16" x 1" bar and go through the same drill again. If you are going to weld sheet metal, get some of that next.

You can learn to weld if I can. I am mostly self taught.
 
#15 ·
What is the thickness of your test pieces? What kind of joints (you mentioned an inside corner joint)?
Ranges from sheet to about 1/8. The statement and internal questions apply to all thickness in between those ranges. This problem has been going on for years now and not just one particular task.

As far as joints, I've attempted all types of them over the years. My worst fight is with inside corners. When I saw that vid I posted above I was blown away by how easy he makes that look. I would love to be able to do that, and make it look so nice and clean looking. If I showed that guy my cruddy attempts he'd fall over backward.

The project I'm working on right now involves both sheet and thicker angle, and fusing them together. I know enough to turn the heat higher than you'd normally use on sheet, then start on the thick with a stitch and just touch the sheet as you come down off the thick. That works fine to tie them together, but it's just repeating that stitching over and over and have it turn out right. As stated above there's something going on with my hand control of the wand that is frustrating me.
 
#16 · (Edited)
If you cannot see the weld puddle with an #8 lens turn up the amps
or:
Shining a bright work light on the weld area should help.

You need a good AC power supply plugging a welder into a standard wall outlet feed with 14ga wire & a 20 amp circuit breaker could be an issue your welder could be stuttering from insufficient AC volts/amps .
Suggest a 30 amp breaker & 10ga wire to a dedicated outlet.

If the wire is jumping around use more amps & less wire feed & get the nozzle closer to the work.

Practice running beads on flat stock when you can do that then overlap material & weld the overlap. When you get ok move on to butt welds. Vertical next then overhead. Don't try to but weld tin you need to be really good @ welding to do it.

If you have a dial for the wire feed get a helper to turn the dial while your welding keep adjusting the wire feed until the weld sounds like sizzling bacon.

Good luck
 
#18 ·
You need a good AC power supply plugging a welder into a standard wall outlet feed with 14ga wire & a 20 amp circuit breaker could be an issue your welder could be stuttering from insufficient AC volts/amps .
Suggest a 30 amp breaker & 10ga wire to a dedicated outlet.
Circuit is a dedicated circuit with #12 on a 20A breaker. It certainly should do the job with that puny little machine I would think.

I'm thinking for now I need to learn how to relax and get myself into that welding 'Zen state' before pulling the trigger.

Working welding beads kinda reminds me of working with fiberglass, once you mix it you'd better get busy before it sets. Welding requires working that bead ALL the way across, with no time to reflect on or change anything, just go and go.
 
#17 ·
The project I'm working on right now involves both sheet and thicker angle, and fusing them together. I know enough to turn the heat higher than you'd normally use on sheet, then start on the thick with a stitch and just touch the sheet as you come down off the thick. That works fine to tie them together, but it's just repeating that stitching over and over and have it turn out right. As stated above there's something going on with my hand control of the wand that is frustrating me.
I don't know how you're trying to "stitch". For me any sheet metal welding is simply a series of tack welds, whether it's to other sheet metal or to something thicker. You tack with tacks far apart enough to hold the pieces together and maintain alignment. Then you tack halfway between the existing tack welds. Then you go back and tack weld halfway between again. Repeat until there are no gaps. Some may call this stitch welding, others not. There are no continuous welds. You may be using too much heat.
 
#19 ·
Just my take on good welds.
There are significant variables on each and every weld situation. More so than most other disciplines.
Most of us are not welding as a profession, so we don't develop the intuitive settings/ methods a pro has. I may go weeks between welding projects. I find it imperative to zero in on technique, settings, for every job, except farm welds.
Prior to executing a weld that matters i try to duplicate the job w/ scrap material of the same thickness, metallurgy, type of connection (butt vs. lap vs. angle), position (vertical vs. o-head vs. horizontal).
This will at least get you in the ball park of being successful on the weld that matters. Just walking up to a job w/o nailing everything first guarantees I will create a less than desirable end result. To date my biggest challenge has been aluminum w/ mig. I have kicked out some impressive coupons, according to my nuclear pipe fitter B.I.L.. Wish my actual projects looked as good as the samples.
Jim
 
#20 ·
I have the same problem in getting the right temp and speed for a decent looking weld. Stacking dimes stuff is pretty but not always the strongest, just remember that and you certainly don't need it on sheet metal- you're going to grind it flat anyway.


One thing that has helped me a lot is to take some scrap pieces of the same material that I am going to be welding and put them together, trying various settings and what I want to hear is that hot, sizzling sound like bacon on a flame hot skillet. Once I have the settings worked out, then I work on the real pieces. I also write notes inside my welder's side cover as to what worked - usually metal thickness, speed and temp settings. That way when I have to do the same work again, I have a reference. One last thing I learned was that I was not using enough shielding gas. I used to run 10-12% which is too low for a decent weld. I now use about 18% which is still a bit low according to some welders but it works for me. I use a Argon/Co2 at 75/25.
 
#21 ·
You your getting globs your not getting penetration the wire is making the glob. You need to not move the gun till the puddle forms. Also keep the end of the mig gun tight to weld puddle. Like I said tons of videos showing how to setup and run the gun. MIG is pretty simple once you learn to start the puddle. Practice an thick metal 3/16” or thicker flat and just run beads. Start the arc watch puddle form them slowly move gun. No reason to to any other postions till you can run a straight bead on flat metal.
 
#22 ·
Can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all the comments and suggestions.

I'm getting globs all right, in fact that's about all I'm getting is globs, and all down the line. Bird crap globs in fact. Penetration burns on the other side of the work on most all of them too.

One of the things I want to try changing is to change my body position. Thinking back on it, all I remember is seeing the gas nozzle. I must be positioning myself so that the nozzle is blocking my view somehow. I was doing the most comfortable, but if my memory is right I'm going to have to find a different way even if it's more uncomfortable.

Thanx again for making me stop and think about this more.
 
#24 ·
Sometimes it helps to take an "Introduction to MIG" course at a local technical school or college. For the costs in involved, it may bring you peace of mind having an instructor to help critique and provide suggestions. And as with most things, practice, practice, practice....

Dave
:bowtieb:
 
#25 ·
Sometimes it helps to take an "Introduction to MIG" course at a local technical school or college.
I would have done this years ago when I first started to learn welding. Welding courses are available locally but you have to commit to a full program and pay for the full program at those schools. I.e., not for a hobbyist or even a mechanic whose intention is not to be a full time welder.
 
#26 ·
Gone are the days of taking a single class or credit hr. they want you to take full courses which are $$$$.

There are a few guys on youtube that do offer classes on each process. They aren't cheap either but way cheaper than a full course.

This guy is in Vegas. Call him and see about price for just a MIG class he list his classes prices which aren't bad. Take an 8hr MIG class and you should be good to go.
https://thefabricatorseries.com/classes Check out his youtube channel.
 
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