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Old 04-05-2017, 09:31 PM   #111
blackwidow
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Thanks 1971BB427.... I dropped a plumb bob and it will be close, hate to remove it with it never being off the car and in excellent shape! But if she goes I save 5lbs
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Old 04-06-2017, 10:44 AM   #112
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Looks fantastic! Guessing that wiper motor will have to go away though! Most tunnel rammed Tri 5 Chevys wont clear the wiper motor.
That is were the 2.25 forward mounts really help.
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Old 04-06-2017, 12:46 PM   #113
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Usa1 , unfortunately I'm past the motor mount issue frame will not see a welder or anything until something tragic happens..... all mock up was done with the motor on the frame and body installed dizzy goes in and out fine so I believe I'm plenty foward .the intake runners will be direct center of wiper motor and carbs well out of engine bay.

yes the 2.25 mounts would work but I'd have to pull and relocate trans member in process , she's not going to see ill weather so I'll have another spare part lying around till someone needs it. Would like to leave it but if it don't work I'm totally ok with pulling it . Thanks for your input
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Old 04-07-2017, 08:26 PM   #114
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And 2.25" forward motor mounts will eliminate the use of any factory built fenderwell headers too! You'd need to have the headers custom built if going forward, and using fenderwell headers.
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:51 AM   #115
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My motor mounts are 2.75 forward, leaving lots of space for the HEI and I have no issue with tire clearance with the wheelwell headers, since I extended the wheelbase to 118 inches.
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Old 04-10-2017, 11:59 AM   #116
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Yes, extending the wheelbase 3" sure ought to give even more clearance with the engine moved 2.75". But that's quite a bit of length to add to the wheelbase. I like 1"-1.5" forward if the car sits high.
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:23 PM   #117
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Hi BB, Long time....
In one of your other posts, where you were talking about tilt front ends, you said you used a link to move the front end froward before tilting. I like this idea and I have some thoughts on a latching mechanism. How do you latch your front end?
The tilt part is next on my agenda. Steel with hood attached, no front bumper.
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Old 04-10-2017, 04:51 PM   #118
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Hi BB, Long time....
In one of your other posts, where you were talking about tilt front ends, you said you used a link to move the front end froward before tilting. I like this idea and I have some thoughts on a latching mechanism. How do you latch your front end?
The tilt part is next on my agenda. Steel with hood attached, no front bumper.
I latch mine with the rubber Jeep hood latches hidden up inside on the firewall. The rubber end is attached to the frontend, and hooks are mounted on the firewall. I just reach inside and hook them, or pop them off.
But I'm considering changing them. They unhook easily, but stretching them to hook them is not too easy.
I use old Nissan truck hood latches for my Austin, and they are a dream to operate. I may convert the Falcon to the same by mounting the catch in the frontend, and the pins in the firewall. Then have a remote cable for each side to release the latches. They only cost me $10 each at the pick n pull.
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:36 AM   #119
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Attachment 150671

Usa1 , unfortunately I'm past the motor mount issue frame will not see a welder or anything until something tragic happens.....
I just welded that same motor mount in my 57 150 gasser frame.
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Old 04-11-2017, 10:14 AM   #120
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Thanks for the info. I'll let you know what I settle on.
Our big Spring swap meet is on April 23 at Lake Compounce in Bristol, CT. It,s run by the Connecticut Street Rod Association, CSRA.
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