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Headers and Exhaust System Discussion related to Exhaust systems and headers.

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Old 06-25-2019, 06:57 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 557B210 View Post
Did some searching through my files and found this attached CCI article...If I'm seeing and reading this part, but not fully understanding it.

Yes, but these downpipes are not specifically for the Tri-five and were designed to avoid the donut and attach directly to the manifolds.

The clearance bends for the tri-five are going to be different. For these, we specifically designed them to use the donuts and the 2" tri-five manifolds.
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Old 06-25-2019, 08:19 PM   #42
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The title of the article says this:

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Old 12-01-2019, 09:27 PM   #43
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I went with the 2.5 rams horns, when I dropped the engine in it had zero clearance to the newly installed 500 box. removed the engine and steering box, massaged the frame with a sledge, oblonged the outside box mount holes, ground the raised mounting boss off of the top mounting bolt on the gearbox, added a couple washers on the bottom mounting bolts, I now have 1/2" clearance. I bought these off ebay for the begining of the downpipes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-SMALL...72.m2749.l2648

Glad i did it. took the rack and pinion out did not want headers.
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Old 12-01-2019, 10:49 PM   #44
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I could be wrong....However, it sounds like you have created problems with the steering box and shaft alignment now Bill.
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Old 12-01-2019, 11:14 PM   #45
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Pops - are you talking about misalignment between the input shaft with regard to the center of the steering column shaft? I took it that Bill created a total of 1/2" clearance, but only part of it due to movement of the box...then again, I might be wrong as well. While having that shaft exit the body exactly in the center is ideal, a few fractions of an inch to one side can be workable - at least it was with my '56 sedan and the 605 box.

Also Pops, going back to the first few posts of this thread, you included a picture of your LH manifold and steering box (post #9). Are you using the aftermarket (Dorman?) manifold, or is it a GM (what it looks like to me)? Also, is your motor in the stock position?
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Old 12-01-2019, 11:24 PM   #46
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Motor in stock position with stock 2.5 manifolds JR
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Old 12-03-2019, 02:47 PM   #47
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The factory 2.5" rams horns are tight, mine are close but do have clearance. There should be enought material on the Rams Horns to grind for additional clearance without affecting the integrity of the casting if needed. Also, on other sites people have had concerns about how rough the casting is on the inside ofthe Dorman manifolds. As for down pipes, I used something similar to these with the 2.5" donuts with 2.5" pipe and Flowmaster 40 series. Its way too loud so be cautious with the muffler choice.
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Old 12-03-2019, 02:51 PM   #48
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The factory 2.5" rams horns are tight, mine are close but do have clearance. There should be enought material on the Rams Horns to grind for additional clearance without affecting the integrity of the casting if needed. Also, on other sites people have had concerns about how rough the casting is on the inside ofthe Dorman manifolds. As for down pipes, I used something similar to these with the 2.5" donuts with 2.5" pipe and Flowmaster 40 series. Its way too loud so be cautious with the muffler choice.

This is how it sounds at idle.https://www.facebook.com/william.yad...6960485059005/
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Old 12-08-2019, 09:20 PM   #49
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Quote:
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We bought our 2 1/2" ram horn's from Summit Racing. They came with a flat flange gasket, BUT they also are chamfer'd for a regular doughnut. We plan to go with the doughnut.
There is a reason for having both a flat surface and a beveled outlet. Think about it.
If the manifold is to be used on the RIGHT side, then it gets a flat gasket to mate with the heat riser/flapper valve. The heat riser is FLAT on one side (to mate with the manifold and flat gasket). The other side of the heat riser has a beveled opening to mate with the donut.
If the manifold is used on the RIGHT side, then only the donut is used.
SOME exhaust manifolds only have a flat surface at the outlet, and are ONLY intended to be used with a heat riser valve. And some have both a flat surface as well as a beveled opening.
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Old 12-08-2019, 09:37 PM   #50
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For a street-performance-driver, where dependability, longevity and no leaks are important, I have always preferred a 2 1/2in cast iron manifold and a FULL 2 1/2in exhaust system.
WITHOUT QUESTION, headers will produce a little more performance and power, but for a street driver that will not see any drag strip duty wht the headers open, I just do not see putting up with the hassles of headers and occasional leaks.
UNFORTUNATELY, only some cars can use Ram Horn manifolds, thus, about the only option is headers. An example is the Camaros and Chevelles. A Ram Horn CANNOT be used on those cars. I have a 70 Chevelle with a very healthy SB400. The ONLY iron manifold that was available for those cars with a SB had a 2in outlet, thus, my option was headers. To save my soul, I DO NOT understand why there was never a log style manifold that had a 2 1/2in outlet. Chevelles, Camaros and Chevy II cars with the hi-perf 327 did get 2 1/2 pipes, BUT, the pipes were squeezed down to 2in at the manifold, as shown in Ccas post above. This simply made a bottle neck in the system.
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