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Old 08-08-2019, 10:06 PM   #11
Rick_L

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Use a non-hardening sealer like Permatex #2 or #3. Use a cork gasket. Use copper sealing washers under the screw heads and coat the screws with the Permatex also.

If your old float didn't leak, use it rather than the new one. The Chinese floats are junk. If you need a new float, use the Ford p/n that's recommended in other posts - either brass or plastic.
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Old 08-10-2019, 10:08 PM   #12
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Well that was fun! New tank and sending unit went in without a fuss. 🤔 😑. So it’s all up and running, no leaks. Disconnected brown wire w/ Key on engine off, fuel gauge jumps to full. With Brown wire connected drops to half tank (center line) on the gauge. The tank has exactly 5 gallons so I know that’s incorrect, either that or I bought the largest 10 gallon tank their is. My big question is where exactly am I grounding this sending unit? I’ve read in another thread, the body is the best place because of the gauge. But where do I connect to thw sending unit? To one of the mounting screws? Or the same connector point as the brown wire? I know this may be common sense to most but I don’t want to blow myself up in front of my family.... not yet anyway. Thanks guys
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Old 08-10-2019, 10:10 PM   #13
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I was wondering why it didn’t work....
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Old 08-10-2019, 11:45 PM   #14
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The sender is grounded from its mounting screws through the tank and tank mounting straps. Common practice for a good reliable ground is to run a wire from one of the sender mounting screws to the frame or body. Just drill a small hole and use a self tapping screw at the frame/body end of the wire. To adjust your sender to read full when your tank is full you need to bend the float arm on the sender so that when full the float is at the top of the tank. May have to adjust a couple of times to get it right which obviously means removing sender a couple of times but I don’t know of any other way. I have always used a cork gasket with clutch head screws and copper washers without any additional sealant. Never had any problems with leaking at sender.
I would also recommend replacing the brass float with a plastic one. Far less chance of your sender failing due to float cracking and filling up with gasoline.
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Old 08-31-2019, 08:43 PM   #15
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Hahaha so the gasket leaked at the sender. I stubbornly used the rubber gasket that came with the tank. After you all warned me to replace it with cork style. Can a cork gasket be made from a sheet? Or does it have to be specific for fuel? I have another rubber gasket that came with the sending unit that I will be using as a template. I would order one but I have this weekend to work on it and I doubt I can get one here by Monday (Labor Day)
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Old 09-01-2019, 12:15 AM   #16
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IMHO....It is better to have the correct (cork) gasket, screws, and washers in hand, before you go any further and end up doing things two to three times unsuccessfully.
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Old 09-01-2019, 12:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45packrat View Post
Hahaha so the gasket leaked at the sender. I stubbornly used the rubber gasket that came with the tank. After you all warned me to replace it with cork style. Can a cork gasket be made from a sheet? Or does it have to be specific for fuel? I have another rubber gasket that came with the sending unit that I will be using as a template. I would order one but I have this weekend to work on it and I doubt I can get one here by Monday (Labor Day)
Yes you can make your own cork gasket.
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Old 09-01-2019, 10:24 AM   #18
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We can lead you to the water my friend, lol.

Now, do you want to go through this aggravation again or do you want to have the best chance of getting it right the first time out?

Yes, you can make a gasket, but I think the better call is to get a nice new preformed and pre stamped cork gasket. Be mindful that the gasket needs to be correctly clocked onto the sender, it’s important to get this correct so look the gasket over and get it in the correct place.

Next, get the right screws and copper crush washers. Regular copper washers might not do the trick depending on the hardness of the copper so just order the right ones.

Next, order a plastic float for a Jeep product. Do a search here and you should come up with a couple of threads that will have the correct number.

Next, use an ohm meter and test the sender. Should go from about 0 ohms to 30 ohms (empty to full by moving the arm). If you have the correct movement and 0 to 30 ohms, you are good, if not, return the sender for a new one.

Next, make up a little ground wire. Round spade on both sides. Drill and tap a hole on the frame for a screw, or use a self tapping screw. Use an external star washer. They are your friend for a good ground. Test the wire for ground using the ohm meter.

Use permatex no. 3. It’s a little more fuel resistant then the no. 2. Don’t go overboard here. You don’t want the permatex to drip into the tank so don’t just slather and goop it on. Use it on both sides of the gasket, and a little bit on the threads of the screws. Install the sender and gasket, install the screws and the other end of the ground wire. Do not be a gorilla on the screws. It will push out the gasket and split it. Let the permatex set up for 24 hours, 48 would be even better, before you expose it to gas.

When you install the fuel line, loosen the bolts on the gas tank and move the tank and sender to meet the fuel line. Bend the fuel line if needed. Do not try to bend the sender line to meet the fuel line, never never never. It’s soldered in place and will break the soldered connection if you do and leak.

The above is not fool proof but should give you the best chance of a solid seal at the sender.
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Old 09-05-2019, 12:06 PM   #19
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Sir, you have gotten it down to a science. Hahah Thank you. I have screen shot your itemized list and will be following it down this weekend. I did feel like I may have over tightened the first time. The gauge was reading full at the half mark. And the copper washers I used were from auto zone and I was already skeptical if I had used the right ones.
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