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Old 09-17-2019, 06:28 PM   #131
1971BB427
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Got a new heavier circuit run out to the shop today, so I can weld with my Mig turned up full and not have tripping breakers constantly! Ran it with oversized wire, and a new route to reduce the length of the run, and also reduce voltage loss from resistance. So it should be good to go, and not have any issues now.
Will get back on fabricating mounts tomorrow, and test out the new feed to the shop.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:01 PM   #132
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Tack welded the mounts to the base plates, and then removed them from the car to weld them right side up. Cleaned up the shackles and bolted it all together again. Then tacked all four base plates to the frame with a single tack on each corner. Nothing permanent in case I need to adjust once the rear axle is done, and engine weight is on the suspension. Then if it's all still good I can permanently weld it up.
But it's sitting on the tires now, and ready for me to move to the rear suspension. Having a heck of a time figuring out how the rear shackles come apart? They have a single bolt in the middle hole, but when I removed it nothing seems to want to come apart. I pried and beat on the shackles, but they seem to be pressed on the top and bottom shafts. Those shafts are hollow and have zerk fittings. Removed the fittings, but no joy. Have to do some internet searching and then go caveman on them if I can't figure out how to gently remove them.



Also got the permanent front crossmember tacked in. Made it from some round tube I had leftover from the '63 Falcon build. Looks better than box tubing up front.

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Old 09-18-2019, 08:18 PM   #133
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Thanks to a Google search I found an online copy of the 1939 Chevy shop manual! It shows the rear shackles are tapered pins on each end, and they simply hold the shackle with the taper, and that single center bolt.
I'll make up a piece of running thread with a nut on each end so I can put it between the shackles to push them apart. Then with tension on them I should be able to give them a good strike with the hammer and pop them free.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com.../39csm090.html
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Old 09-18-2019, 08:59 PM   #134
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You are hustling on this build that breaker is going to be tested for real!
How is the flooring holding up and is there any difference kneeling on it.
As always spectacular craftsmanship!
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Old 09-18-2019, 10:26 PM   #135
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The flooring is holding up great. I do put wood under the jack stands when holding the car up as I think the sharp feet would dig in. I noticed that things slide easily on this flooring, which can be good and bad. Easy to slide things around, but I can also have things slide if I'm not careful. And little bits of junk can drop into the mesh surface, so sweeping isn't an option. I have to use the shop vac to clean up and pull the dirt out of the floor tiles.
But it's great to kneel on, or lay on, and much easier on my bones doing either. I still use my kneeling pads because I've got bad knees. But if it's laying down to work this is much warmer than concrete!
This is the part of a build I love! The fabrication of drivetrain and suspension is my favorite thing on a build. I keep digging through my storage shed and coming up with parts I've accumulated from the last couple decades of building. Yesterday I came across a complete set of ladder bars with all the mounting hardware, including the upper shock mounts and crossmember for coilover shocks. I wont be doing coilovers, but will try and use the upper mount for my shocks, and the ladder bars to work with my leaf springs.
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Old 09-19-2019, 07:13 PM   #136
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Went over to Mike's today to pull the body off one more time on his '35. It will be off for some time to do bodywork and seal it.
After an short day I came home to find about 5 packages sitting at my door. So I grabbed them and headed to the shop. The 5/8"-LH heim joints were in the packages so I made up my tie rod! 1.25" OD tube to eliminate any flex or death wobble.



Then I moved to the rear of the car and pulled the 9" Ford rear axle so I can begin reworking leaf springs and install the 8.8" Ford axle.
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Old 09-19-2019, 07:42 PM   #137
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:03 AM   #138
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Great thread with a lot of do it yourself info. I know to attain the stance, performance, and look one has to visualize the result and work backwards. Great information and thanks for walking us through your build. My 38 Coupe is slated for a gasser build . So far it is soda blasted and pretty much apart . Body is in excellent shape with no rust so I'm grateful to be able to skip to the chassis build. I located an original frame that has an 9.3 rear and ladder bars . The front is the original straight axle with a disc brake set up. It is all on hold at this point until time permits. Meanwhile I will be tuning in to your build. It certainly is inspirational , thanks again for your work and posts. Greg.
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:38 PM   #139
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Getting the stance right is tough. That's why nothing gets permanently welded on my builds until both the front axle, rear axle, engine, trans, and tires and wheels are all on the car. Then I can look at where it sits, and how it all works together before doing the final welding on front axle, and rear axle.
I've done enough straight axle cars to get a vague idea of where to start, and get it close enough. But never close enough to feel comfortable enough to do the final welds.

Hit the first fall swap meet today! Found some nice old school finned aluminum valve covers, plus chrome alternator bracket, and a pair of 3.5" chrome exhaust tips. Just little bits I know I'll need at some point in the build.
Still need to locate or build a 4 speed automatic shifter for the 700R4, but another 3 or 4 swap meets coming up over the next few months, so hope one shows up.
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Old 09-21-2019, 06:22 PM   #140
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Sold the '70 Mustang 9" rear axle today. Put it on Craigslist, and it took a little over an hour to go away!!!
While I was waiting for the guy to come pick up the old axle, I cut the perches off the 8.8" Ford, and disassembled the spring packs. They had 8 leafs in the packs, which is why it sat up like a 4x4 in the rear! I removed 5 of them, and I'll see how it sits once I have the new axle in and weight on it. Then add springs if it needs more to sit right.
I relocated the spring center pin 2" back, so the wheels will be better centered inside the opening when I radius them.





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