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Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc Suspension Questions Chassis, Brakes, Springs, Shocks, Swaybars, Tire, Rims Etc

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Old 07-22-2017, 07:31 PM   #31
reds5772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddogs1965 View Post
It already had a 1" bore that was a disc/drum M/C, and i really never liked the half way down play of the brake pedal before the brakes started to work even before the M/C took a crap on me...

So i found a 1"1/8 M/C that is set up for disc/disc, but thanks for the info....

Just F.Y.I guys, i carried the thread over to here instead of having two different threads going on about the same problem.

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showt...172734&page=14
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Old Yesterday, 01:42 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by SLIM View Post
So is the pedal feel different now? All I see over on the other thread is talking about valve covers
My son gets back tomorrow to help me bleed the brakes.
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Old Yesterday, 11:22 PM   #33
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So i am very HAPPY & PLEASED to say the bigger 1" 1/8th bore disc/disc new M/C works GREAT!!!

I could tell as soon as Logan & I started to bleed the rear discs, i was getting almost twice the volume of brake fluid coming out of the bleeder compared to the 1" bore disc/drum M/C.

So after the bleeding procedure, i took the Nomad for a test drive, and the brakes are night and day now. The brake pedal is almost all the way at the top when you hit the brake pedal compared to almost at the bottom with the 1" bore when they actually start grabbing.

As far as the pressure required on the brake pedal to make the Nomad stop between the 1" bore and the new 1" 1/8th M/C is just a little bit more, but defiantly not enough to complain about.

I can also do a panic stop now and the rear tires will lock up and actually leave black marks on the pavement, which i am sure is do to the front and rear brake lines being plumed in backwards on the M/C. So that is a issue i will correct this winter. In the mean time it JUST FEELS GREAT to have brakes that ACTUALLY WORK & WORK GOOD.

I think once again, OlE' Johny would give this two thumbs .... I MEAN TWO COOKIES UP.....


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Old Today, 07:03 AM   #34
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Good Goin.

Careful on wet pavement until the lines get swapped you'll get some 180's, maybe 360's donut practice

Or quick fix:

Pull the rear pads & grind the linings down from the top edge about 1/4 to
3/8" the length of each pad. Less pad = less brake. Road test, front brakes need to lock up first.
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Old Today, 07:48 AM   #35
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When I was putting in the new front springs, I noticed that the front disc pads didn't drag on the calipers at all. I've got a lot of pedal travel. Which after reading Rock's posts, has got me to thinking, do I have a problem? I sure hope not!
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