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Big Block Install Questions and Answers Special Category just for asking questions about installing a Big Block in your Trifive Chevy.

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Old 02-10-2017, 02:17 PM   #31
CNC BLOCKS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBButch View Post
Just found out by talking to a guy that worked on a NASCAR pit crew , they sleeve all their engines, 1 thing he said ,when it is all together it is stronger.
The thing to remember their blocks are not OEM castings nd are Siamese bores.

You not comparing apples to apples here !!! I have seen plenty of NASCAR Blocks over they years.

I really doubt a NASCAR builder would start with a cracked block like the OP has.
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Old 02-14-2017, 01:07 PM   #32
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Still no headway made…. Been going back and forth on what to do.

Most likely I will either find another block, or just build a sb to drop in.

However my grandfather passed yesterday morning, so it will be back at a stand still for awhile

Thank you for everyones input.
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Old 02-14-2017, 02:05 PM   #33
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So Sorry to hear about your grand dad. The motor will wait.
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Old 02-14-2017, 02:12 PM   #34
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I had a sleeved buick grand national. It was never a issue, even boosted
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Old 02-14-2017, 02:17 PM   #35
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If u go the resleeve route MAKE SURE u magnaflux to make sure it isnt cracked elsewhere... Dont ask me how i know...
Dc
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:16 AM   #36
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So after some serious pondering I've made my mind partially up lol...

I'm sending back all my parts & going to Build an LS. Hopefully a 6.0 w/ 5.3 heads... Nice cam, Tune, & some headers..

I've been thinking for awhile about swapping the truck up to somewhat of a "gasser" look. Right now it's running K5 running gear. The t-case has "succesfully" gone into 4-wheel drive ONCE. Never been able to get it right. SO I'm going to toss the old 350, trans, t-case, & front axle aside for another project.

Questions..

1) Would you all go Manual or Auto with the new setup & why?

2) I don't know where to even begin trying to find a "solid" axle for the front end, so any help would be apprecciated.

3) What do you think of the whole idea?

Current look


Kinda shooting for this look
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:47 AM   #37
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Your truck looks killer, I'd find another one to cut up..
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:52 AM   #38
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Need to determine cost difference, you should get a certified 4 bolt main for under 700.00. What will it cost for a sleeve
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Old 03-23-2017, 12:09 PM   #39
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My opinion - worth 2 cents, I know - is put a big block with a 4 speed manual trans in there. That would be awesome. Sounds like you have all the big block parts to make good power - just find a good 454 block shouldn't be too hard.

Its a lot easier to make 600hp with a 454 than it is for a small block or LS - unless you want to go with some kind of forced induction or power adder
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Old 03-23-2017, 12:47 PM   #40
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It should be noted that most all GM aluminum blocks were sleeved in all cylinders, including the Can Am blocks. Of course they didn't start out with all cracked cylinders but the point is that the sleeves worked.

My major worry wouldn't necessarily be 're-cracking' but instead potential water leaks into the crankcase, but that worry is based on really old fears from the 60's-70's. Nowadays techniques are MUCH better.

Years back I read in a car magazine somewhere that a guy had perfected a technique of using a threaded sleeve with permanent sealant. Never heard of it since. Is that still out there?






Also just to add,
If I were building a BB for a motorhome or work truck a sleeve wouldn't be a big deal. For a performance motor I think I'd hunt for a better block. They are still out there.

Lastly,
I've run studded main (ARP) 2bolt blocks with blowers and even blown with nitrous in boats at wide open for longish periods before and never had lower end problems. Had every other type of problems though, including lifting the heads off the block (WITH head studs) by running a blower at 22 percent overdrive. Still no lower troubles. In other words 2bolt blocks don't bother me a bit, so you can consider one to save on costs.
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