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Stock Chevy Discussion 55-56-57 Stock Chevy Discussion, 55-56-57 Ask your Questions or help others with answers. Or any general Talk about stock Chevy's

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Old 02-16-2017, 06:32 PM   #11
Chevyragtop57

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I use both stock and or adapter styles.Mike
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:35 PM   #12
angs1957
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I still have the canister style
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:31 PM   #13
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Hi,
The following is not an opinion but, mostly fact. I will not get into the science behind it because I do not have a degree in fluid flow or filtration, etc. So...

A modern oil filter is rated by the time/weight method of evaluation and a good filter will use synthetic media, figerglass or whatever is the now thing. A simplification of the testing is that the filter has oil flowing through it, a specified amount and size of contaminants are introduced for a period of time and at the end of the specified usage time, the filter is weighed. Of course the heavier the filter weighs, the better filtration, the better the filter. Modern filters are supposed to keep oil flowing as they collect particulate.
The older cartridge filters (aka Chevy canister) were measured by micron size. This means that no particle larger than the micron rating would pass through the filter. Eventually, if enough sludge/dirt is present, the holes will clog causing the bypass valve to open resulting in contaminated oil to be forced through the engine. Modern filtration should be better. But, is it??? We are not using most of these cars as beaters and most of us understand the benefits of a short oil change.
I have no clue as to what NASCAR runs for 500 miles but, I have seen filters that are reusable (see Smokey Yunick articles from his books or Circle Track) , stainless steel filtration, screens, paper filters, etc. How much particulate is going to form in 500 miles at operating temperatures??? No experience here.

Now for an opinion.
My point is that the old filtration worked almost too good, it could choke off oil supply when the oil became dirty. Modern filters are supposed to keep on flowing as they become contaminated. The canister is strong. If into high performance, aka drag racing, you can eliminate the bypass without worry of blowing up the filter. Also, the cartridge element flows more freely than a spin-on. The bottom of a spin-on filter is different than the bottom of a canister filter - convex vs concave. I do remember being surprised at the amount of sludge in the bottom of the can that needed cleaning in low mileage usage. You cannot readily inspect a spin-on filter unless you purchase a cutting tool. To be forewarned is to be forearmed. One more thought: how many testing results have you seen from filter manufacturers and can you readily interpret it?

Let the opinions fly. lol

Last edited by shoeboxpaul; 02-16-2017 at 07:43 PM..
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoeboxpaul View Post
Hi,
The following is not an opinion but, mostly fact. I will not get into the science behind it because I do not have a degree in fluid flow or filtration, etc. So...

A modern oil filter is rated by the time/weight method of evaluation and a good filter will use synthetic media, figerglass or whatever is the now thing. A simplification of the testing is that the filter has oil flowing through it, a specified amount and size of contaminants are introduced for a period of time and at the end of the specified usage time, the filter is weighed. Of course the heavier the filter weighs, the better filtration, the better the filter. Modern filters are supposed to keep oil flowing as they collect particulate. Can you obtain testing results from filter manufactures that make sense on your specific usage?
The older cartridge filters (aka Chevy canister) were measured by micron size. This means that no particle larger than the micron rating would pass through the filter. Eventually, if enough sludge/dirt is present, the holes will clog causing the bypass valve to open resulting in contaminated oil through the engine. Modern filtration should be better. But, is it??? We are not using most of these cars as beaters and most of us understand the benefits of a short oil change.
I have no clue as to what NASCAR runs for 500 miles but, I have seen filters that are reusable (see Smokey Yunick articles from his books or Circle Track) , stainless steel filtration, screens, paper filters, etc. How much particulate is going to form in 500 miles at operating temperatures??? No experience here.

Now for an opinion.
My point is that the old filtration worked almost too good, it could choke off oil supply when the oil became dirty. Modern filters are supposed to keep on flowing as they become contaminated. The canister is strong. If into high performance, aka drag racing, you can eliminate the bypass without worry of blowing up the filter. Also, the cartridge element flows more freely than a spin-on. The bottom of a spin-on filter is different than the bottom of a canister filter - convex vs concave. I do remember being surprised at the amount of sludge in the bottom of the can that needed cleaning in low mileage usage. You cannot readily inspect a spin-on filter unless you purchase a cutting tool. To be forewarned is to be forearmed.

Let the opinions fly.
Interesting read.... Personally I like to default by changing my oil too often...

FYI: I routinely inspect the filter media simply by running the lip of the filter against my bench grinder.... comes right apart....
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:57 AM   #15
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Two more thoughts on filters.
First, there are many a spin on filter being sold that use paper style elements, usually the inexpensive ones. Baldwin, Fleetguard, Wix and Amsoil have info available to tell you what is used.
Second, PCV valve. The old downdraft system is just that, old. If you can, add a PCV valve to your engine to aid in the removal of moisture and by-pass combustion gasses. When emission controls first appeared, Chevy removed the downdraft tube and installed a domed cap with tube for the PCV hose. 63 Corvette utilized a rubber plug and a metal tube. Paragon Corvette catalog for the C2 has a nice schematic showing the pieces used in earlier years.
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/corv...catalog/c2/#4/

Here are 2 informative reads on PCVs.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/PCV_system

http://mewagner.com/

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Old 02-17-2017, 12:35 PM   #16
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I do the same with all my filters.
So do I but in reality, there is still oil on all the parts of your engine and you will never see any oil change place or dealership do that except maybe exotic/very expensive car dealerships and many cars have the filter installed horizontally and you can't have any oil in the filter.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:57 PM   #17
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So do I but in reality, there is still oil on all the parts of your engine and you will never see any oil change place or dealership do that except maybe exotic/very expensive car dealerships and many cars have the filter installed horizontally and you can't have any oil in the filter.
Haha..

My rice burners with the horizontal filters still get at least some oil precharge when I'm doing it....
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:47 AM   #18
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What keeps the all threaded hollow rod firmly in place on the 2nd Good type filter adapter? Locktite?
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Old 02-18-2017, 10:26 AM   #19
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Is anyone else anal like me....

I always pre-charge my spin-on filter with new oil and then install to shorten the amount of time on start-up until pressure builds after the oil is changed...

It probably doesn't matter but makes me feel better...
... ALWAYS... (because I believe it matters, just like cleaning the dirty seal mating surface and oiling the new seal before installing the spin on filter.. .. and 'hand tightening' to the mfg's recommendation (2/3 to 3/4 after seal touching)... and I do these because I've seen problems over the years when inexperienced 'oil change' mechanics don't do it...

PS. The First time I ever took my car into a garage for an oil change, I was watching the young fella do all this wrong (I was young myself, but I knew more than he), so I finally interrupted him, took the oil filter and his rag from him and said 'Let me show you how you need to always do this!"...
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:39 PM   #20
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Quote:
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What keeps the all threaded hollow rod firmly in place on the 2nd Good type filter adapter? Locktite?
It seems to come with a lock-nut and probably a little lock-tite wouldn't hurt either..

I'm trying to determine which are the correct, and preferable, filter cartridges to use.. checking with rock-auto, they have CH-106Pl, CH-107PL, and CH-200PL, and various substitutes for each of them. There seem to be some slight differences in height between them and I'm trying to gain enough knowledge to make the proper choice... Can Anyone help on this issue?
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