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Old 02-17-2017, 12:07 PM   #11
abdiver7777
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Quote:
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If a slab is poured on a properly back filled and compacted gravel substrate a percentage of that is voids between the gravels in which air can move when either radon mitigation or humidity control is effected by creating a low pressure air exchange.

This last summer we removed and replaced a slab that had cracked and heaved in a residence. The slab was poured by someone ignorant, contained no rebar, no vapor barrier, on top of expansive clay with negative grading around the home. A recipe for disaster. When the slab was cut out a large section was suspended 4" above the clay which had receded.

When I built may garage I over excavated both footers and slab base and replaced this with abc fill and compacted gravel all because of clay. If you don't know your type of soil a call to a soils engineer can save you thousands of dollars.

Dealing with someone else's foundation mistakes is never cheap or fun.

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Old 02-17-2017, 02:51 PM   #12
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I bought a $20 fan from WalMart it runs 24-7 for the past 9 years I never shut it off ,the best 20 bucks I ever spent ,,,
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:18 PM   #13
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During storage I put visqueen under car even with plastic under cement.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:50 PM   #14
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During storage I put visqueen under car even with plastic under cement.
Just Curious.... do you collect water between the concrete and plastic?
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:58 PM   #15
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I thank God for being in Texas. Believe it or not, even with all our humidity and having ground water really close to the surface - we usually don't have these problems with concrete slabs. Don't even require a vapor barrier.

How does radon figure into this? I don't hear much about it anymore, figuring it was one of the myths/scares whose time had passed. And again, maybe it's just not a regional problem.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:35 PM   #16
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Radon, a gas is the natural decomposition result of radium in the soil/Rock. Living in Co. we are #7 in the US for remediation.
Lived in my current home for 40 years. Looking to relocate and decided to explore this. Just got the results, our test showed 7 pico curries. EPA sets remediation required at 4. My results are very low for this area. As we've not yet developed lung cancer. Radon is supposedly the #2 cause behind smoking) I'm electing do do nothing. I'm skeptical of any gov. entity establishing safe levels for exposure.
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:10 PM   #17
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Is there anything I can put down on my slab to keep the humidity away from my car? Whoever poured the concrete must not have put down a vapor barrier.
Are your perimeter drain pipes/tiles in good shape?If they're plugged
or collapsed this will cause moisture to penetrate up through the slab.
There should be some type of concrete sealer to help keep the moisture
from coming through if there isn't a vapor barrier under the slab.
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:57 AM   #18
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A contractor buddy of mine also suggested visqueen. I had never heard of it but it's much cheaper than the 300.00 rubber mats I saw online. I would hate to go through all the work of laying epoxy down just to have it fail. I like the fan suggestion as well. Thanks for all the help my friends.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:58 PM   #19
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There is a surefire test to tell you whether the moisture is coming from under the slab, or from the air. Take a 2' X2' piece of 6 mil plastic and tape it tightly to the floor with duct tape on all 4 sides. Pull it up after a day or two, and if the plastic is dripping wet on the side that was against the concrete, then the moisture is coming from under the slab. If not than the moisture is condensing out of the air.

This is the standard test we use in commercial buildings to determine water vapor migration. An awful lot of dampness on a slab is due to the slab getting cold for quite a while, and then the weather changes and gets warmer and more humid. The cold slab will make the moisture condense out of the air just like on the outside of a glass with a cold drink in it. The only thing that will help in this case, is conditioning the space.


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