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1955 1956 1957 Corvettes Forum 1955 1956 1957 Corvettes Forum, This forum is for 55-56-57 Corvette owners to ask questions and also give advice to other members about Trifive Corvettes

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Old 09-07-2018, 07:31 AM   #21
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So how did you have the transmission or bellhousing mounted with the aluminum bellhousing? It won't necessarily make a difference unless the mounting scheme was poor. Stock bellhousings are usually at least fair for runout, unlike aftermarket stuff. But given your problems it certainly won't hurt to measure and correct as needed. Likewise it's unusual to have parallelism problems, although it can definitely happen.
I've been playing with small block chevy's for over fifty years and this bell housing problem is new to me . In the past all you had to do was bolt one bell housing from a small block engine on to another small block . I never even heard of mis-alignment and having to use dial indicators until working on a C1. Now that I know that I have the correct cast iron and right year bell housing I'm hoping that it works .
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Old 09-07-2018, 07:38 AM   #22
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Flywheel bolted to the crank turn the motor over & dial indicate the flywheel it should run true. Had one that was machined improperly it was .040 out of true = clutch chatter.

Pilot bearing in the crank? is it worn out?

Check the trans front bearing retainer for wear from the throw out bearing.

Aluminum trans case? Check the trans to bell housing bolt "ears" many times they are broken off & welded on sometimes causing misalignment.

Your posi clunk during reverse: Rear tires may have different circumferences = the posi unloads when direction changes.
Pilot bearing is new, everything is new and good quality. Absolutely no wear on the bearing retainer , Nothing broken on trans or bell. Tires were all bought new and same size .
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Old 09-07-2018, 05:46 PM   #23
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Post 1:

"since there were hot burn marks on one half of the flywheel and pressure plate so I took it to the machine shop and had it checked and refaced"

Check the crank flange for burrs^^^^ indicates that the flywheel is not running true. If no burrs on the crank flange indicate the crank flange. indicate the face of the flywheel when on the crank.

Good luck
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Old 09-07-2018, 06:46 PM   #24
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I'm surprised that no one has considered bad universal joints. One may be worn or binding up.
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:24 PM   #25
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I'm surprised that no one has considered bad universal joints. One may be worn or binding up.
I mentioned that it has new U-joints in the first post .
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Old 09-07-2018, 10:07 PM   #26
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I got the original cast iron bellhousing yesterday and found out that the one that was in there is a rare aluminum bell and will only work with a 1960 Corvette part #3764591 so apparently if it is only for 1960 , it won't work right for my 57. I don't know what the difference would be but if anyone needs one it will be for sale .
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Old 09-07-2018, 10:34 PM   #27
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I mentioned that it has new U-joints in the first post .
OK. You said you checked the universals but were they checked under load? I don't even know how you'd do that.
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Old 09-07-2018, 10:36 PM   #28
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OK. You said you checked the universals but were they checked under load? I don't even know how you'd do that.
They are new , nothing wrong with the u-joints .
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:35 PM   #29
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Post 1:

"since there were hot burn marks on one half of the flywheel and pressure plate so I took it to the machine shop and had it checked and refaced"

Check the crank flange for burrs^^^^ indicates that the flywheel is not running true. If no burrs on the crank flange indicate the crank flange. indicate the face of the flywheel when on the crank.

Good luck
I had a machinist friend come over Saturday and check everything with dial indicators . He said everything is within factory specs . Put everything back together with a different original cast iron bell housing and the problem is still there . I think it is time to take a close look at the inside of the trans for possible front bearing slop on the input shaft . I'm thinking maybe it is putting side force on the clutch disc . We will see .
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:09 PM   #30
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I think you're chasing the wrong thing. And you don't have to tear down to check. Just indicate the input shaft to the front retainer. Indicator clamped to input shaft, plunger on retainer. You may have to get creative to figure out the best way to clamp.

Unfortunately I don't have any new suggestions. My thought is it's one of the things mentioned already.
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