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Trifive Steering , Power and manual- Rack & Pinion - 605 Trifive Power Steering / Rack & Pinion / Power Conversions / 605 Upgrades / This is the Place to ask all your Steering Questions

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Old 01-03-2020, 09:09 PM   #11
Rick_L

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The stock one unless you have extensive mods or an aftermarket frame.
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Old 02-18-2020, 06:00 PM   #12
chasracer
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My opinion:


IF your skill level is limited to mostly bolt-on stuff with zero to minor modifications - then I would suggest not going to a R&P.


But, if you can rip and weld metal with the best of them - go for it!


I wanted to put a front mounted R&P on my '55 210 and took my share of shots about it. It takes some determined modification of the front crossmember plus some extended steering arms (Speedway Motors) but it can be done and it works really well. No more header issues, no more goofy power steering nonsense and no leaky rebuilt boxes.
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Old 02-18-2020, 10:24 PM   #13
DHR Darren
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I had these steering arms made and when going front mount rack you want to use a narrowed one.

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Originally Posted by chasracer View Post
My opinion:


IF your skill level is limited to mostly bolt-on stuff with zero to minor modifications - then I would suggest not going to a R&P.


But, if you can rip and weld metal with the best of them - go for it!


I wanted to put a front mounted R&P on my '55 210 and took my share of shots about it. It takes some determined modification of the front crossmember plus some extended steering arms (Speedway Motors) but it can be done and it works really well. No more header issues, no more goofy power steering nonsense and no leaky rebuilt boxes.
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Old 02-23-2020, 01:04 PM   #14
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My rack and pinion is a Unisteer brand. It uses a Saginaw unit and a special bracket that is supposed to use the original steering box and idler arm holes. The problem I had was the bracket being around an inch short of fitting to the frame rails. I talked to the Unistrut tech guy who said my frame must be tweaked and to do as I already had done by making spacers to bridge the gaps. I don’t believe my frame has a problem, as I had it inspected by a reliable shop on a frame machine and it was found to be within an eighth of an inch or less on every factory spec. I measured 29 1/4” and 29 1/2” at the front and rear holes for the original steering mounting points. Other than that, the install is pretty easy only other problem was minor clearance at mounting points for CPP spindles and Unisteer steering arms. This was easy to do with my Dremel. I am curious about the distance between frame rails on any other’s tri five.
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Old 02-23-2020, 01:34 PM   #15
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The Unisteer rep was full of BS.

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Old 02-23-2020, 05:25 PM   #16
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A new faster ratio steering box is one choice, another is rack and pinion. If you want a more modern solid feel as a modern car go r&p. If it donít really matter to You replace the steering box tie rod ends etc. in either case replace the ball joints. And ďAĒ arm bushings. And if the springs are tired change them too.

I find the biggest plus change is change to taper roller bearings and get rid of the obsolete ball bearings. Modern late 60ís chevy hubs off a Corvette fit the Ď57 and bearings on the spindles. Not sure about 55 and 56.
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Old 03-18-2020, 01:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost57 View Post
My rack and pinion is a Unisteer brand. It uses a Saginaw unit and a special bracket that is supposed to use the original steering box and idler arm holes. The problem I had was the bracket being around an inch short of fitting to the frame rails. I talked to the Unistrut tech guy who said my frame must be tweaked and to do as I already had done by making spacers to bridge the gaps. I donít believe my frame has a problem, as I had it inspected by a reliable shop on a frame machine and it was found to be within an eighth of an inch or less on every factory spec. I measured 29 1/4Ē and 29 1/2Ē at the front and rear holes for the original steering mounting points. Other than that, the install is pretty easy only other problem was minor clearance at mounting points for CPP spindles and Unisteer steering arms. This was easy to do with my Dremel. I am curious about the distance between frame rails on any otherís tri five.
I have the Auto Cities Classic R&P kit & it came w/ spacers for the crossmember to allow for variations in frame width. BTW ,I could never find a spec for frame width between the steering box & idler arm mount points/
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