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Old 08-14-2019, 06:49 PM   #21
tekctrl
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At one time the compressor was cycling on and off. What changed that?
The thermostst would cause the compressor to shut off if it were adjusted to 53 degrees. Does it shut off at that point?
The compressor had been cycling, but then stopped after one shop discovered that two heater hoses had been reversed on install and corrected it.

The S-R rep at the Nationals asked about the thermostat too but after inspecting the system said that it was set correctly.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:04 AM   #22
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The compressor had been cycling, but then stopped after one shop discovered that two heater hoses had been reversed on install and corrected it.

The S-R rep at the Nationals asked about the thermostat too but after inspecting the system said that it was set correctly.
the heater hose coming off the intake goes to the heater control valve. the return goes to the water pump. check this out and report back.
Sounds like the outfit that reversed your hoses was wrong. the clutch should cycle and if the heater is getting hot water then the clutch will never cycle because the A/C thermostat will never be satisfied due to the hot water in the heater core.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:54 AM   #23
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the heater hose coming off the intake goes to the heater control valve. the return goes to the water pump. check this out and report back.
Sounds like the outfit that reversed your hoses was wrong. the clutch should cycle and if the heater is getting hot water then the clutch will never cycle because the A/C thermostat will never be satisfied due to the hot water in the heater core.
See post #12: ...........
Quote:
The Southern Rods rep at Bowling Green looked at it and advised that it was getting some hot coolant past the heater valve (not closing properly) and recommended putting vise grips on the heater hose going home and then two ball valves in (both hoses) to isolate the a/c system from the engine coolant when running the a/c. ............
Installed the two ball valves this afternoon (high of 84), made certain that they were both closed, and took it out to test the a/c with NO hot coolant to the a/c system ... no change. Measured temp still got no cooler than 53 ............
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:59 PM   #24
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Default Southern Rods a/c not cooling

Dropped by a local speed shop (Old Dog in St. Louis) and talked with them about the a/c. Looks like one of those situations where everything is right but it still won't work. Asked them about what they'd want to rip our the S-R system and put in a V-A system. Approximately $5,000 to rip it all out and put in a new V-A system!!! Since I haven't won the Lottery lately, that's not happening. It'd be a lot cheaper for me to rip it out myself and then give them a clean slate...ripping stuff out is Easy...cut/cut/cut/rip/rip...trash/trash...done. I'd still rather have a fully functional S-R system, but will do it if I have to. The good news is that the summer cruises are winding down and there's time to try to figure this out. The earlier poster is right, this isn't rocket science...it's just that I'm quite ignorant about a/c systems. Don't want to spend the extra $$ or effort, but ....

We have all fall and winter to figure this out, along with our vapor lock issues.

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Old 08-15-2019, 10:15 PM   #25
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Approximately $5,000 to rip it all out and put in a new V-A system!!!
Looks like they REALLY REALLY didn't want anything to do with your a/c!
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:43 PM   #26
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Dropped by a local speed shop (Old Dog in St. Louis) and talked with them about the a/c. Looks like one of those situations where everything is right but it still won't work. Asked them about what they'd want to rip our the S-R system and put in a V-A system. Approximately $5,000 to rip it all out and put in a new V-A system!!! Since I haven't won the Lottery lately, that's not happening. It'd be a lot cheaper for me to rip it out myself and then give them a clean slate...ripping stuff out is Easy...cut/cut/cut/rip/rip...trash/trash...done. I'd still rather have a fully functional S-R system, but will do it if I have to. The good news is that the summer cruises are winding down and there's time to try to figure this out. The earlier poster is right, this isn't rocket science...it's just that I'm quite ignorant about a/c systems. Don't want to spend the extra $$ or effort, but ....

We have all fall and winter to figure this out, along with our vapor lock issues.

you know you only have to replace the evaporator unit inside the car. the condenser, compressor can be reused. .
find the thermostat under the dash on the evap unit between the fan housing and coil box, and make sure it is turned fully counter clockwise. that's the coldest setting
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:37 AM   #27
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Dropped by a local speed shop (Old Dog in St. Louis) and talked with them about the a/c. Looks like one of those situations where everything is right but it still won't work.

What did they do to determine that it can't be fixed? Did they put gauges on it? Did they use a laser thermometer to check the temps at different points of the system?

I would not change the evaporator, without knowing if the compressor is bad or the system is water logged or the condenser is too far from the radiator to get enough air flow.

Would you like to try to diagnose this yourself with help from the A/C experts on site here?
Borrow some gauges from an auto supply, connect them, run the idle up to about 1200-1500.
Read the pressures. (Write them down). Post them in a new post. We need current data.
Temp in front of radiator.
Center vent temp.
If the compressor cycles, how often and at what inside temp and pressure?
Cooling fan running?
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Old 08-16-2019, 01:51 PM   #28
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Looks like they REALLY REALLY didn't want anything to do with your a/c!
I agree Rick. that's the we don't want to do it price. in my shop a VA install is $1300-1500 for labor depending on the car. a tri-five is about as easy as it gets. the kit if you buy all the bells and whistles is between $1600 and 2000. so in my shop about $3500 max out the door.
I think the op needs to invest in some gauges, check pressures and take the time to fix it himself. along with checking hose routing etc. it almost sounds like it is over charged. most shops don't charge VA systems correctly and this is the issue.
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Old 08-18-2019, 11:18 AM   #29
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Default S-R a/c won't cool

Even though the S-R rep at the TriFive Nationals said that the thermostat was set correctly, I'm going to try to open it up under the dash and look for myself.

I admit to being totally incompetent in a/c matters. Sort of like asking someone to dive under the hood of their PC and check/change settings and components. If you're experienced and knowledgeable, it's easy. If you aren't, it's very easy to do the wrong thing and make things so much worse.
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Old 08-18-2019, 11:39 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by acardon View Post
What did they do to determine that it can't be fixed? Did they put gauges on it? Did they use a laser thermometer to check the temps at different points of the system?

I would not change the evaporator, without knowing if the compressor is bad or the system is water logged or the condenser is too far from the radiator to get enough air flow.

Would you like to try to diagnose this yourself with help from the A/C experts on site here?
Borrow some gauges from an auto supply, connect them, run the idle up to about 1200-1500.
Read the pressures. (Write them down). Post them in a new post. We need current data.
Temp in front of radiator.
Center vent temp.
If the compressor cycles, how often and at what inside temp and pressure?
Cooling fan running?
The 'a/c guru' that I was referred to by the staff of the Corvette Test Track i in Bowling Green put gauges on the system and said that everything was good except that the low-pressure side of the compressor was nowhere near as cold as it should have been. He tested the system with the engine idling and at operating temperature.

Engine cooling fan (electric puller, 1300cfm, with full shroud) runs just fine, with temp gauge rock solid at 190 even in B-G traffic.

Engine radiator has a/c condenser and trans cooler in front of it but the 'a/c guru' saw no issues with that. He did put the I-R temp gauge on the radiator and said it was good, though he didn't tell me what it read.
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