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Safe and non damaging jacking

6K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  YOUNG57 
#1 ·
I've been using an aluminum race jack and a 12"x 4"x 6" block centered on the rear most cross member to raise the rear. Followed by a pair of five ton stands at the frame/rear cross member intersections. Quick, solid, safe.
My concern is this can deform the C Chanel of the rear cross member. I'm going to weld in a one foot section to box it in for rigidity.
Does any one have another take on this?

Thanks, Jim
 
#2 ·
Actually that block (I assume it's wood) probably does enough to protect your crossmember from damage - it especially would if it was longer. It doesn't need to be 4" x 6" either - but maybe you're using it for height too.

Question I have is can you get the rear wheels off the ground and get the frame or axle high enough for a jack stand, especially without a spacer between the crossmember and jack? With that block you also have a potential for some instability allowing the car to slip off the block or the block to slip off the jack.

Myself, I just put the jack under the center of the axle.

All of the above assumes that the car or jack can roll on a smooth surface.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Rick. Yes the block is used for length. It stable enough to get the stands in place and then raise some more, enough to change a fat tire. The C channel does deform in spite of my efforts to locate the block as the contact is four by six.
I just notice the nice space between the rear cross member and the gas tank. Think I might play with a pivoting, swing down hydraulic attached to frame.
#1. I'd be carrying the weight of a roofing floor jack and block anyway.
#2. It would be quick and trick.
Need to explore options, maybe RV leveler
Jim
 
#5 ·
#9 ·
Part of this discussion should be about what are you doing and where. Is this scheme for jacking the car on the side of the road if you have a flat? Or is it about jacking the car so you can work under it in the shop or driveway?

I don't see the utility in the combination jack/jack stand.
 
#10 ·
Started out as a way to carry minimal gear to change a fat flat. Thus my progression to a hinged, attached hydraulic lift. Can't really get my rear tires out by lifting via the axle. Compared to most vehicles there really is a lot of empty real estate just in front of the rear bumper.
I have some thoughts to keep the weight down. All my trucks have a receiver tube tucked up behind the factory receiver to store the hitch. Could modify a bottle jack to store the same way instead of a permanent hinged connection. Lots of hydraulic options out there.
Jim
 
#19 ·
Accomplished the strengthening of the rear cross member today.
Pretty straight forward. No more deflection or bending of the C channel when jacking from this point.
Last two pictures are lacking in sufficient lighting for detail. Excuse my farm welds. I'll never get enough practice for o-head welds to be good at it. Put the addition of an attached, hidden, pivot down hydraulic jack on the back burner for now. Still like the concept.
Jim


Bumper Automotive exterior Pipe Auto part


Pipe Auto part Bumper Automotive exterior Gas
 
#21 ·
For emergency flat tire changing on the side of the road I found an 82 to 92 Camaro/Firebird spare tire jack in a junk yard. They are low and flat and fit under the frame mid body between tires. They have the typical bumper jack ratchet bar but is horizontal and jacks apart two pads, one on the ground and the other under the frame. They weigh about the same and fold down to fit behind my spare in the trunk like the original bumper jack. Safer and less damaging than bumper jacks as it picks up the car by the frame at mid-point.
 
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