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Old 01-27-2020, 02:11 PM   #11
dogface1972
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This is where this all came from.

GEOFF told me about Laszlo. Bought a pair of front frame horns from LASZLO last year. (http://www.classicedgedesigns.com/frames.html)

Another guy in town was making a restored stock 57 into a pro street. So I scored his new rebuilt upper/lower control arms and steering components, new drums/lines for $250.00. I thought I did well there.... In progress below. Last picture is the mangled horn I removed. The nice part is the welds (for the most part) are under the control arms.
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:15 PM   #12
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Since your not reusing the ball joint, you need a bigger hammer. Put the spindle on a solid surface and hit the ball joint stud, HARD. It will come out.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:37 PM   #13
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I mushroomed the heck out of that ball joint, heat finally busted it loose. Thanks acardon! So I think it's going well. I'm not sure how tight the the spindle nut is supposed to be? I tightened it until I could place the cotter pin in. It feels like there is 1/8 to 1/4 slack when I pull up on the axle flange. (if that's the correct term) But I did pack it with bearing grease. And I will bend that cotter pin all the way down once I verify the spindle nut torque.

Nice to see when you google anything "stock", every article and picture is about a conversion. Thanks google. Actually, I'm to blame I just need a 55 manual. I like paper, anyone has one PM me. If not I'll check ebay.

What is going to be a real hoot, is when I drive it in the spring and see how far off the alignment is. I heard when you change out the steering linkage to measure and count threads. I'm not rebuilding the steering linkage, just replacing with pained/rebuilt stock parts.
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Old 01-27-2020, 09:38 PM   #14
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Chris...Since you have ball bearings, the spindle nut is tightened as described in the 55 Shop Manual:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...55csm0303.html
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Old 02-03-2020, 08:58 PM   #15
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One side finished. The threaded rod compressor is the ONLY way to go and it still took a few hours. The other side should go faster. 2 jacks can be helpful.

I found lining up one lower control arm bolt at a time, and starting them one at a time worked. You have to connect your upper and lower control arms to the spindle to get the compression geometry correct to line up the lower control arm to frame (4 bolts).
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Old 02-04-2020, 01:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogface1972 View Post
One side finished. The threaded rod compressor is the ONLY way to go and it still took a few hours. The other side should go faster. 2 jacks can be helpful.

I found lining up one lower control arm bolt at a time, and starting them one at a time worked. You have to connect your upper and lower control arms to the spindle to get the compression geometry correct to line up the lower control arm to frame (4 bolts).

Use 2 long bolts or rods to guide the lower control arm shaft up to the cross member. Then put the other 2 correct bolts in before taking the guide bolts out.
You shouldn't have to connect the spindle until it's in place, if you use guide rods.
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Old 02-05-2020, 04:42 PM   #17
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i always took my coils to the local spring shop, had them "banded". went right in.
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